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Hasegawa 1:4000 SDF-1 (DYRL)

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any one else has a black plastic/silicone joint leftovers? I only use 2 on the model kit for the joint shoulders and there are different size and different shape also the length is about 45cm 14 inch maybe

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I've started building this and started a diary titled "Inexperienced modeler builds SDF-1." I'll post the album eventually. I'm still in the painting stage (on the sprues), but I'm paused for a little bit because I had to order more of that expensive Mr. Color Light Gray spray paint. I'll be more inclined to get the more available Tamiya spray cans if I do other models in the future.

I'm following a Japanese build diary, and one question I have is this: how is this guy accomplishing panel lining?

I figured out that I can't use the Gundam marker I planned on using, because I'm using lacquer base paint. Can anyone infer what method this guy is using based on this pic? FYI, I'm used the same spray cans as him.

4ad7d54591c9901bd52c9815836f9bff.jpg

He used straight up enamel paint for these detail areas. I get that he probably used a q-tip with enamel thinner to clean this up.

a4e8f3d9ae8c33368ad99a4441623b49.jpg

For the panel lining, do you guys think he's using thinned out panel wash?

Edited by HannouHeiki

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For the panel lining, do you guys think he's using thinned out panel wash?

I think you're asking what kind of paint he used for the panel wash. It looks like he used thinned gray enamel paint to me. You can either buy some enamel paint and thin it yourself with enamel thinner, or you can buy something pre-mixed such as Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color.

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Thanks for the tip. I just wanted to be sure.

I'm trying to decide whether to use a Tamiya enamel wash, or get a GM20 Gundam Marker using water based paint.

The GM20 seems to be the "newbie" solution that I think I should try first. If it doesn't work well I can move up to the Tamiya wash. Does that sound like a decent plan?

Some of the panel lines are super tiny...since this model is depicting a 1200m ship.

Another thing I'm thinking about are decals. I'm wondering if I should gloss coat at that point, or could I straight decal on the semi-gloss Mr Color paint I'm using?

(Thanks for the patience with the noob questions)

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Thanks for the tip. I just wanted to be sure.

I'm trying to decide whether to use a Tamiya enamel wash, or get a GM20 Gundam Marker using water based paint.

The GM20 seems to be the "newbie" solution that I think I should try first. If it doesn't work well I can move up to the Tamiya wash. Does that sound like a decent plan?

Some of the panel lines are super tiny...since this model is depicting a 1200m ship.

You should never attempt to do a panel wash without first applying a gloss coat. The paint will just soak up the wash and leave the surface stained. Also, the capillary action which pulls the wash through the recesses won't work as well.

I haven't found Gundam markers to be that useful to be honest -- there's no magic to them, they are just regular markers with a Gundam logo on them. Going over all those lines will take a long time with a marker and won't look as good as using something like Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color. I think simply doing a panel wash with an enamel will be easier -- it's basically idiot proof as long as you apply it to a gloss coat. It will also yield a much nicer result than would markers.

Another thing I'm thinking about are decals. I'm wondering if I should gloss coat at that point, or could I straight decal on the semi-gloss Mr Color paint I'm using?

I don't think I would try to apply decals to a semi-gloss surface if I could help it. The decals won't want to stick to the surface, especially if you don't have any setting solution. You'll achieve the best results if you apply the wash & decals to a glossy surface.

Edited by chaff.g

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Your advice seems to be the path taken by the JP build diary I'm following.

You're also confirming what I've understand fro googling modeling tips. So the final question is: what gloss coat to use that doesn't react with lacquer base paint or enamel wash? Would it be an acrylic coat?

I will probably experiment with the water based GM20, but plan to use a Tamiya wash. The "noob" selling of the GM-20 is that you can apply it to any paint, before applying gloss. The build diary I followed avoided panel lining near decal areas to preserve the glossy surface.

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Chaff offers some verybsound advice. I've had some great luck applying to semi gloss or even flat colors but it was definitely an exception to the rule. You're far better off applying both washes and decals to a gloss coat. Plus, the gloss seals the finish. So if you make any mistakes, you're not starting over completely, since your base coat is protected.

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You're also confirming what I've understand fro googling modeling tips. So the final question is: what gloss coat to use that doesn't react with lacquer base paint or enamel wash? Would it be an acrylic coat?

It's actually not the lacquer surface that affects this decision, it's the enamel. What you want to avoid is interaction with the enamel thinner since you will be cleaning the enamel off the surface after applying the wash. So you can use either a lacquer or an acrylic coat. I think most people airbrush Future (an acrylic sealant) for this task, but it sounds like you're working with rattle cans. A popular acrylic gloss coat people like to use with Gundam models is called Topcoat, but this can be expensive and hard to come by these days. Alternatively, you could go to your local hardware store and easily find a clear gloss lacquer in a spray can. This will be the least expensive option.

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Be careful with lacquer clear sprays, though. They can be a lot "hotter" than other paints. I've had some terrible results with stuff that was meant for car repair paint touch ups. Always good to test first. But still, much easier to get these at a hardware store or car parts place, than to order online.

Don't mean to scare you, just offering some of my own experience.

By the way, my experience was painting over tamiya and gunze acrylics. These are supposedly lacquer based pigment, but in a water soluble solvent. Strange things because they can be mixed with water, alcohol, or lacquer for thinning.

And now we're waaaaay off topic! Sorry ;)

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All good info. It sounds like a lacquer based gloss coat over my lacquer mr color spray cans is ok? I would use some type of modeling product, like Testors or Mr Hobby.

Then onto decals, enamel wash (Tamiya accent), enamel detailing, and possible water based GM20 Marker.

After applying enamel wash, maybe some water based GM20 marker paneling, I will finish in a TopCoat....matte? Matte finish since it's a big ship?

Edited by HannouHeiki

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He *may* have also used a 0.3 mm (or smaller) mechanical pencil on some of the lines. Of all the options, that's probably the easiest to do, and the easiest to clean up if you screw up.

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OR, you could try using this. Don't like the results, just wash it off, and since it's a water-based clay emulsion, it won't react with anything.

Flory Promedellers wash

I myself have been using it for several years, and I love it. Worked just fine on my Yellow Sub SDF-1.

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Hey Jeff, that's are enamel or water based?

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Hey Jeff, that's are enamel or water based?

Water. It's a finely ground up clay powder with some inert ingredients to help keep it in a water solution. What's nice is that you can apply it over properly set decals, and get panel line detail over the decal.

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Lol, I just see that you already mentioned... sorry about that. Definitely interested!!

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Lol, I just see that you already mentioned... sorry about that. Definitely interested!!

I've been using it for 3~4 years I think. Only on my 3rd bottle. How you wipe it off is how weathered your model is. Wet cloth and hard wiping, only panel lines. Dry and soft wiping, very streaky and dirty.

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Water. It's a finely ground up clay powder with some inert ingredients to help keep it in a water solution. What's nice is that you can apply it over properly set decals, and get panel line detail over the decal.

If there's an artists supply store in your vicinity, search for artists gouaches. Same thing, and available in a wide range of colors. I've been using these for years, no hassle with interim coats or fumes, and easy to correct.

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OR, you could try using this. Don't like the results, just wash it off, and since it's a water-based clay emulsion, it won't react with anything.

Flory Promedellers wash

Makes a change for something that versatile to be UK company/supplier..... No import tax for me for a change.

Edited by big F

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That water based clay wash sounds like something I'll look into while I wait for more mr color spray cans to come in the mail. (I ran out of gray...expensive!)

That wash sounds perfect....for a beginner like me it sounds like I won't have to sweat and be anxious while panel lining!

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I just bought a set. I'll let you know about my impresions when I receive it!

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If there's an artists supply store in your vicinity, search for artists gouaches. Same thing, and available in a wide range of colors. I've been using these for years, no hassle with interim coats or fumes, and easy to correct.

hi electric indigo, it seems like this is readily available to me. Care to share on how you use this?

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Some guides recommend spraying a gloss coat before decal application. If I use Mr. Mark Setter and Softer, is a gloss coat still necessary? The spray paint being used is semi-gloss, although surface may not be perfect because of beginner's skill.

Edited by HannouHeiki

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Some guides recommend spraying a gloss coat before decal application. If I use Mr. Mark Setter and Softer, is a gloss coat still necessary? The spray paint being used is semi-gloss, although surface may not be perfect because of beginner's skill.

Yes, use a gloss coat before applying decals.

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A long time lurker here with an attempt on this kit. I had some parts left over but she seems to be all there. Not going to try to do the Monsters though. My hands shake too much.post-9107-0-62077700-1436745098_thumb.jpg

post-9107-0-96730200-1436745222_thumb.jpg

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Some guides recommend spraying a gloss coat before decal application. If I use Mr. Mark Setter and Softer, is a gloss coat still necessary? The spray paint being used is semi-gloss, although surface may not be perfect because of beginner's skill.

I use Mr's Softer and Setter, and I've never used any type of clear coating, either before or after. I generally use semi-gloss or flat paint for my paint jobs, too.

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A long time lurker here with an attempt on this kit. I had some parts left over but she seems to be all there. Not going to try to do the Monsters though. My hands shake too much.attachicon.gifBow-Upper.jpgattachicon.gifSDF-1 Port.jpg

Love the paint detail, you must upload a zip of hires shots of this beauty!

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I got this kit as a house-warming present from me, to me, and decided to crack it open tonight.

I didn't get very far. In fact I got to the point HannouHeiki was asking about on page 6, realising that I'd need to paint this.

I know that the colour scheme is entirely my choice, but I'd like to try and stick to the official one as much as possible.

That being said, I don't know what it is.

post-31187-0-78008200-1456872462_thumb.jpg

I think this is a list of the colours, but can anyone please tell me what they are in English? I googled around for an English translation on the instructions, which is what lead me here.

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Aradiel, those numbers in the black boxes all refer to Mr. Hobby / Mr. Color brand paints (the "H" with white boxes are their old number system, I believe). There are several places online that have the Mr. Hobby color charts. Here's one example:

https://januaryjulian.wordpress.com/2008/12/20/mr-hobby-mr-color-charts/

The first link on that page is the bottle colors that you should reference. You could either buy the actual paints to match the model instructions or try to match another brand to the color chart. Hope that helps!

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Awesome, thanks for the prompt response! I'll use my acrylics, but try to colour match as close as possible (for example XV-88 and Tau Light Ochre look like they might be close to the tan colour)

I'm now thinking I'll do a grey base coat to start - if I use white, the darker colours should require more coats? Plus if I'm doing colours that are close to white... it's easy to lose track painting white on white.

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In fact, the black Boxes are for Mr Color paints and the H and white boxes are for the acrylic line. So you have the 2 options, lacquers and acrylic.

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Thanks for that info! I didn't realize they also offered acrylic paints. I just came across a whole box of their paints that must be 30 years old from my trips to Japan as a teenager. I'm guessing I may be able to salvage the dried up lacquer paints but not the acrylics.

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Maybe I'm used to seeing it from a low perspective, but it looks off somehow...

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