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Hasegawa 1:4000 SDF-1 (DYRL)


CF18

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  • 4 weeks later...

I know what you are getting at. I checked the runner and it is divided into three colors which are fairly represented in the build above. Other colors are actually the water slide decals adding more details so if all goes smooth, you only need to small paint masking here and there. Then panel line it to bring out the details.

Of course, only people that actually build it will know. (so take everything I said with lots of salt since I havent build one)

Going through the instruction, it seems that parts are build using layer of three or more parts instead of two full halves, this means less Seam line removal. Of course, any major seams that will be visible or not hidden through the layer of parts will need to be removed and painted.

The more I think about, it looks more possible.

It might be an expensive experiment, but please go ahead and try and tell us of the result ;)

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  • 3 weeks later...

I took a look around the web and found a WIP build diary of a JP modeler thinking along the same lines as myself. Basically, he's also taking advantage of the molding coloring and using only a Gundam marker for paint!

sdf_1movie_s46.jpg

For a neophyte like me, this looks very passable and is getting me one step closer to considering building this thing. I bought two kits, but it's possible I'll chicken out and never start them.

I'm trying to get over one part though. The leg sections are molded in that blue color, including sections that should be gray.

img_3.jpg

I wonder if you could just paint the relevant leg sections gray and continue on, but I have no idea how much of a mismatch there would be between gray painted legs and the gray molding.

If I can get over the gray leg color problem I'd like to consider assembly with the Gundam marker method. It's interesting to me that Hasegawa would go through the trouble of coloring the pieces (it seems like doing that is keeping those with my skill level in mind) but not color those leg sections gray.

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For a neophyte like me, this looks very passable and is getting me one step closer to considering building this thing. I bought two kits, but it's possible I'll chicken out and never start them.

I'm trying to get over one part though. The leg sections are molded in that blue color, including sections that should be gray.

I wonder if you could just paint the relevant leg sections gray and continue on, but I have no idea how much of a mismatch there would be between gray painted legs and the gray molding.

If I can get over the gray leg color problem I'd like to consider assembly with the Gundam marker method. It's interesting to me that Hasegawa would go through the trouble of coloring the pieces (it seems like doing that is keeping those with my skill level in mind) but not color those leg sections gray.

Why not consider buying a spray can of grey paint? It wouldn't be too much trouble to apply a couple of quick coats. It seems like you would only need just that one color.

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Even though the molding color is what tempted me to buy this model, it looks like spray painting seems to be the best bet. Unpainted gray turrets on a painted gray leg section couldn't have matched texture.

I found a build diary that used spray paint with the parts still on the sprues. The diary used acrylic paint for the main colors and used enamel for detail paint.

Is this guy using black primer? Would the paint sequence be:

1. Primer (or surfacer!?)

2. Acrylic spray paint (two coats?)

3. Then semi-gloss for decals?

The blogger's post says: いつもの黒サーフェイサー、白サーフェイサーの部分は割愛します which google translates as Usual black surfacer, part of the white surfacer it will omitted.

f9589556e70cf38b37b1d25e008b35cf.jpg

Edited by HannouHeiki
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It looks like he sprayed the blue parts with Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black. This is just Gunze's brand of black surfacer/primer. The blue he's going to use is the can labeled 14 - Mr Color Spray Navy Blue. I'm almost certain that all of these are lacquer-based paints -- not acrylic. (Tamiya and Mr Color spray cans are lacquer paints) I've never actually encountered an acrylic paint in a rattle can.

If you are in the United States, it would be easier to get ahold of the Tamiya spray paints rather than the Mr Color Sprays.

The paint sequence I would use would be:

1. Primer

2. Color coat

3. Gloss coat

4. Decals

5. Semi-gloss or matte coat

You could optionally add another protective gloss coat after the decals before step 5.

If this is your first kit, I actually think doing the detail with Gundam marker or similar and masking off and spray painting the grey parts of the legs would look fine. A final semi-gloss or matte clear coat will blend the surface texture together. There would be a bit of a color mismatch between the grey-molded cannons and grey-painted hull, but that's a feature, not a bug :-)

Edited by chaff.g
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The tall spray can are both surfacer, the blue can with white cap is the White Surfacer 1000 while the black can is the Black Surfacer 1500.

He used MR hobby colors: 14 Navy Blue, 44 Tan, 35 UN Gray the last can, I cant see the paint code but it looks like similar to metallic colors.(maybe for the thrusters)

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Chyll & Chaff - Thank you so much for the pointers. It's easier to take on a challenge with a plan, and the simple things you're telling me are actually going a long way to filling in the gaps from what I've looked up on my own.

I spent some time "decoding" the google translate of his web page and figured out that the unreadable can was is 28 Steel/Dark Iron. Seeing him come up with a decent build while painting on the sprues makes me feel comfortable. I can't figure out what he used the White Surfacer 1000 for, but I'm guessing it was for the engines/thrusters.

b5c6e7f81970dc9e15342a00eae30edd.jpg

If I'm going to paint on the sprues like this guy, I don't see why I couldn't cut out the leg pieces and paint them gray along with the other gray pieces.

Along with Gundam marker, he uses enamel for the larger recessed details, allowing them to dry a little and then cleaning up with solvent. Now I don't feel so intimidated.

I think I'm comfortable enough to give this a go! Now to buy a bunch of paint...

I'm probably going to have one last question that I'll bring up after I get some sleep.

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for the White primer, my guess would be, it is used as the base color for the gray. My thinking would be, he plans to use white surfacer on the blue (almost black) pieces so that when he spray the gray, the color would be uniform.

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I'm wondering if he used the black Mr. Surfacer 1500. I'm thinking that would be the best choice, since it is the thinnest and least likely to dull out the details. I'm I okay in thinking that this will be okay to use as a primer over the entire model?

And my last question before I'm ready to order the paints and get started. It may seem like common sense but I just wanted to ask and be sure. A tan color is supposed to be sprayed onto the ends of the main guns:

5.PNG

6.PNG

As you can see, it's pretty tight in there. Before assembling the pieces, is using masking tape the best way to get the tan color in there? Should I use a brush? Is a spray can overkill for this little detail? I'm guessing mask and brush might be the best way, but I no build diary talked about this part and I just wanted to run it by someone. I don't want to get unneccessarily frustrated on the first part of construction!

Edited by HannouHeiki
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I'm wondering if he used the black Mr. Surfacer 1500. I'm thinking that would be the best choice, since it is the thinnest and least likely to dull out the details. I'm I okay in thinking that this will be okay to use as a primer over the entire model?

If you have a grey primer, I would prefer that to black. A black primer will be difficult to cover, especially with the tan & grey paints because lighter paints are translucent. If you haven't bought paint yet, I would just pick up the grey Mr Surfacer. It will take more coats of paint to get good coverage over a black primer, and each successive coat of paint will introduce opportunities for problems: dust settling on the paint, thick paint obscuring detail, fingerprints, etc.

The modeler from the diary you found probably used the black primer to paint the base of the model, or maybe some of the metallic details.

And my last question before I'm ready to order the paints and get started. It may seem like common sense but I just wanted to ask and be sure. A tan color is supposed to be sprayed onto the ends of the main guns:

5.PNG

6.PNG

As you can see, it's pretty tight in there. Before assembling the pieces, is using masking tape the best way to get the tan color in there? Should I use a brush? Is a spray can overkill for this little detail? I'm guessing mask and brush might be the best way, but I no build diary talked about this part and I just wanted to run it by someone. I don't want to get unneccessarily frustrated on the first part of construction!

I would probably use a mask and the spray can for these areas. Masks don't always work that well with brushed-on paint. Besides, if you're using a brush, you could just control where the paint goes.

You might also consider inverting the mask you proposed - paint the parts tan first, apply the mask to the tan areas, and then spray with grey. It just depends on how adept & patient you are at applying the mask.

If it was me, I'd start by spraying these areas. If necessary, you could go back and touch up the nooks and crannies which the spray missed with hand-brushed enamel paint and a small brush.

Edited by chaff.g
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Thanks for the tip on the Mr. Surfacer. When researching I was noticing that a lot of ship modelers were using black primer to spray gray paint on. When I thought about what you said regarding white primer, I think I realized that the ship builders were using black primer as pre-shading for airburshing gray. The models were also huge in size, so there was probably less concern about crushing details. Of course, I'm planning on using Gundam Marker, and a technique like pre-shading is beyond my skill level (not to mention I don't have an airbrush).

I'm going to get the finest particle size of Mr. Surfacer in white or gray and use that for the entire model.

And thanks for the tip about inverting the mask! Since I'm "noob tier," that was genius advice to me! ^^

If I don't think of any other questions, hopefully my next post will be in the workshop forum!

Edited by HannouHeiki
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  • 2 weeks later...

i fell in love with this build model, and i preordered it months ago, but it beyond my very noob modeling skill, i subscribed myself into a basic modeling course to learn the basics to do this ok.

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