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YetiStand Alpha.


ChaoticYeti

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Are you talking about the old leg dismember transformation vf-1's? I think I have one here somewhere... I am confident I could make an adapter for them. I am working on making a gallery with a "buy this stuff" type setup. Not as easy as it should be with the cart I am using.

Correct, the parts former 1/60, in my case the super ostrich

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Ok, yes. I found my v1 VF-1a. Wow. I forgot about these. Kinda floppy, uh? Are the shoulders unobstructed on the ostrich? I am thinking I can clip around them and make a loop around the gunpod.

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Am I supposed to plug the 1/48 adaptor into the 1/60 YA standing adaptor?

Yes. My valk specific adapters emulate the same connection as the yamarcadia's. That way, you can use them with yamarcadia stands or with the banking/standing yamarcadia adapters I offer.

Correct, the parts former 1/60, in my case the super ostrich

Gonna print a test now. Not refined yet, but this should eventually work.

Yamato v1 VF-1 Adapter

la3voSWl.jpg

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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This takes care of v1 Yamato VF-1 fighter mode. If you want to place an order for some stands, DuffCon, I will throw a set of these v1 adapters in the order for free. You can let me know if they work on your valks. If not, I can iterate until they do.

ss5yIyN.jpg

3AdaXnh.jpg

Ia70ywD.jpg

s91bfAJ.jpg

OLo3bxf.jpg

And here it is cleaned up:

n1ooPnDl.jpg

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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1x YetiStand

2x Dual Arms

3x YA Banking adapters

It may be useful to get an xl arm or two as well. PM me what you want the end result to be, and I can walk you through some options.

And if it hasn't been made clear yet, part of what I am offering is this scenario right here. I want to make YetiStand as compatible as possible with your stuff, and I will work with you to do so.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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You know what....I actually like that Ver 1 adapter WAY BETTER than the Ver 2. Here's why..the Ver 2 blocks the freakin gun barrels from being seen!!! That ver 1 is way cooler!

#redesign???? :p:blink:

You would like a replacement for the v2 VF-1 fighter mode stand adapter that came with the yamarcadia's based on this v1 adapter I made?

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This takes care of v1 Yamato VF-1 fighter mode. If you want to place an order for some stands, DuffCon, I will throw a set of these v1 adapters in the order for free. You can let me know if they work on your valks. If not, I can iterate until they do.

ss5yIyN.jpg

3AdaXnh.jpg

Ia70ywD.jpg

s91bfAJ.jpg

OLo3bxf.jpg

And here it is cleaned up:

n1ooPnDl.jpg

Could something like this be done for the V.2? Current yamato/arcadia stand adapter covers the gun pod muzzle. Also for super variants it is very far away from the gravity center making them a bit unstable.

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Probably. I'll try and get that done later today.

Edit: Just took a quick look at my Arcadia VF-1s. It doesn't look like there is enough room around the shoulders for this style of adapter. I'll take a closer look tonight. On a side note, the v2's are so much better than the v1's. It has been awhile since I had the v1 out, and seeing them side by side is illuminating.

xfy4Kgel.jpg

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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Muwahaha! Peeled off the covers and looks cleaner on a single base:

16141676370_a34410172f.jpg

16141676840_d2b006ca0b.jpg

Same parts list as the zero quad with the inclusion of the following:

2x standard arm

1 more bolt from hardware store

extra rubber washers

Edited by wmkjr
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Thank you! Having your stands helps a lot! Don't got detolfs over here but I got an extra room with an empty bed, which is where those valks are right now. Display cases are hard to find here and hella expensive!

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Thank you! Having your stands helps a lot! Don't got detolfs over here but I got an extra room with an empty bed, which is where those valks are right now. Display cases are hard to find here and hella expensive!

I am just noticing people ask about detlof fitment on the more elaborate configurations. 5 on a stand is NOT going to fit :).

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Haha! It think I can squeeze in 4 VF-1 fighters in a shelf. I see Old Man's 3 valk set up and it looks like there is room for another one if you angle the valks to a corner and stack tight. The one above measure 26"W x 17"H x 30"D.

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I am just noticing people ask about detlof fitment on the more elaborate configurations. 5 on a stand is NOT going to fit :).

Just experimenting. Barely works, but too busy for my taste. 15"Wx 13"Hx 13.5"D area in pics with some tweaking.

5 VF-1 test 2

5 VF-1 Test

Edited by wmkjr
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Looks good Yeti, I wonder if the adapter will work with VF-1S with Super/Strike parts.

Do you want to send me a set? Hahaha!

Just experimenting. Barely works, but too busy for my taste. 15"Wx 13"Hx 13.5"D area in pics with some tweaking.

Cool, but like you say there is a lot going on.

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Muwahaha! Peeled off the covers and looks cleaner on a single base:

16141676370_a34410172f.jpg

16141676840_d2b006ca0b.jpg

Same parts list as the zero quad with the inclusion of the following:

2x standard arm

1 more bolt from hardware store

extra rubber washers

5x Skulls!! Looks wicked! Would that be MWF member 'Scream Man' former VF-11C Skull repaint?

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5x Skulls!! Looks wicked! Would that be MWF member 'Scream Man' former VF-11C Skull repaint?

Yes, it is. Wish I got the VF-19P too.

@Saburo- Thanks. Can't wait to see a revised Alto series.

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Here are some camera phone pics.

I wish arcadia would re-release these already... Looks like I'm gonna have to borrow or buy a set somehow. That is definitely not ideal, and the adapter I just made wouldn't work.

Edit: Sitting down at my workstation again. I might be able to eyeball some revisions to make it work. I will update when I have something.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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Haha! It think I can squeeze in 4 VF-1 fighters in a shelf. I see Old Man's 3 valk set up and it looks like there is room for another one if you angle the valks to a corner and stack tight. The one above measure 26"W x 17"H x 30"D.

I'm going to have try this once I've acquired some more YetiBits.

Will hold off for now as I'm interested to see how this revised VF-1/Super adapter works out. :)

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I have had someone ask a question about designing something unrelated to this adapter, but I will use it as an example. They wanted to know if I could just have all of the adapters connect to a faceted peg for extra degrees of freedom. I voiced my concerns about doing so, and was going to give some examples as to why. I figured I would just post it here in a broader sense. I like talking about this stuff, so just take it as a little insight into what goes into these.

My 3d printer is FDM. This means it prints one 2 dimensional slice of a 3d object, and than moves up slightly to print the next layer. You have probably noticed the striations of each layer if you have held one of my 3d printed adapters in your hand, or seen them in pictures. This layering is something that you have to take into consideration when printing with FDM. Details that follow each layer in length are much stronger than small areas that layer on top of themselves. Here are three examples of print orientation on this adapter I am currently working on.

This orientation has several issues. It will require a lot of support material to be printed in order to allow the amount over overhang (printing over an area without material deposited beneath it on the previous layer), and this support material is waste that is discarded after the print and can be difficult to remove if not thought out before hand. It will also be prone to break as the layers run in line with thin walls, and areas that need to be strong. The tab on the bottom that goes into the stand adapter has a high potential to break, as does the gunpod cage and 'teeth' at the top.

tVInR7xl.jpg

This orientation also has issues. It will require a lot of support material. Although the gunpod cage portion will be strong length-wise since it is a large area aligned with the layers, the ends of the longer runs near the adapter tab will be prone to breaking. You will also notice that small peg on top that connects to the valk hip bolt hole on the 1/60 v2 vf-1's. That peg is mirrored on both sides. This means that for the entire print, the only piece that is actually supported by the print bed is the peg on the opposite side. This can cause issues with the part not staying put for the duration of the print. You will also notice that the peg is a small detail and looking at the orientation of the layers you can tell that the peg may be prone to breaking off. For something so short, this may be unlikely, but if this was made longer there would be an increased chance of breakage.

kYQGedGl.jpg

This is the orientation that works best for this item. The areas that need to be strong and durable work with the layers, and there is minimal need for support material compared to the other orientations.

l7MHKgfl.jpg

I hope this helps anyone understand this process a little bit better. There are constraints, but I can usually design my way around them.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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