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ChaoticYeti

Macross maintenance.

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When using nail polish, do I apply it to the ball joint or the socket?

Either or, I might say. But what I do is on the socket so it's not all messy on the ball joint.

I know this is a late reply. So I hope it still helps for future use. ^_^

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Transformed my VF-11b from a year long stint in fighter mode. The thigh swivels were very loose. Looser than I recall. So loose, in fact, that it could not stand in gerwalk on my desk.

B9HCGssh.jpg

The fix ended up being simpler than I would have thought.

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There is only one screw on each leg that needs to be removed in order to access the hip swivel.

sDi4fDZh.jpg

The 2 halves of the thigh come off after removing the one screw. There are some plastic pegs for alignment, but they were not glued on mine. YMMV. There is also a small ratchet component, and a metal pin to keep track of.

sg0YqgPh.jpg

The mushroom peg has a black cap made out of soft plastic. To tighten the swivel, I packed the cap with a small square of cut paper towel. All told, while jamming it into the cap, it is probably folded onto itself making it 2 layers of paper towel.

moCBROeh.jpg

Same procedure on both sides, and now my VF-11b can hold a pose without drooping to the ground.

tYUTnaAh.jpg

 

Hopefully this helps at least one other person. Happy New Year!

Edited by ChaoticYeti
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I think my VF-11C suffers from the same problem. I'll try to fix it some day. Thanks!

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So I read that acetone works on abs plastic and polystyrene, melting and bonding it. I wanted to fix the broken flaps from the 31J's weapon container and had zero luck and 5 attempts trying to glue them together with super glue. There's just almost no adhesion. So I bought some acetone (not nail polish remover) and brushed some on to the broken halves. Put them together and waited. Came back and checked and the result was the same as if I had just brushed them with tap water. Nothing at all.

Am I mistaken about the acetone working as a solvent on ABS and styrene or that these are made of ABS? The flaps feel like cheap styrene to be honest.

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Acetone don't work on ABS. I tried to do it on a plastic FAN I broke. Switching to Tamiya thin cement worked though

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Plastruct makes a cement just for ABS.  But in my experience it only sorta works on Yamato plastic.   But most cements don't work at all, so...

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On 1/19/2017 at 9:40 PM, David Hingtgen said:

Plastruct makes a cement just for ABS.  But in my experience it only sorta works on Yamato plastic.   But most cements don't work at all, so...

Thanks for the suggestion! I had looked up Plastruct and saw they had two types. Bondene amd Weld. It sounded like Weld was for gluing two different materials together while Bondene was for gluing like materials together, so I ordered the Bondene. Got it today and tried it out and it works fabulously and doesn't make a mess or crust like superglue does. I was able to glue the pieces together and put them back on without the pieces immediately breaking apart again.

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Anyone have any suggestions as to how to tighten up the shoulders and hips of my VF-171, VF-25, and YF-29 toys?

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38 minutes ago, Valkyrie Driver said:

Anyone have any suggestions as to how to tighten up the shoulders and hips of my VF-171, VF-25, and YF-29 toys?

Did you check the first page? I did have a post there regarding joint fixes on a VF-25. So basically, it's also the same as the YF-29.

 

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3 hours ago, no3Ljm said:

Did you check the first page? I did have a post there regarding joint fixes on a VF-25. So basically, it's also the same as the YF-29.

 

I apparently missed it. Now I just need the silicone rubber that you used. I wonder if I could use RTV silicone gasket maker in a similar fashion to superglue or floor polish? 

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Great thread. Nothing much from me as i have yet to experience any serious issues to warrant a fix.

But nevertheless, here are some tips which i acquired during g1 transformers days

1) for both new and old toys, give the plastic surface a wipe with 70% diluted isoprophyl alcohol as it helps to remove the mold grease or foreign deposits like oil, dirt which might discolor and oxidise

2) put a small dish of water in your cabinet if the display lights are on often it serves to regulate the temperature and acts as a dust magnet

3) for minor discoloration or scratches on white plastics, use novus polisher 1, 2 or 3 to remove the defects. Do not use on painted surface

Edited by recon

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On 28/10/2017 at 11:15 AM, Valkyrie Driver said:

I apparently missed it. Now I just need the silicone rubber that you used. I wonder if I could use RTV silicone gasket maker in a similar fashion to superglue or floor polish? 

I tackled my VF-25G recently and tightened up the joints in both hips and shoulders. Also did the feet too. In all three cases, tightening the screws helps. I went one step further though and used a toothpick to apply gel type superglue in a random, scratched on pattern. I basically let it set before putting everything back together and it made it nice and tight while still keeping the motion of the joint. 

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I got a pretty sweet deal on a V2 VF-1A max TV but when I took it out of box it suffered from a bent head laser. Anyone recommend a fix? 

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Either boiling water, then straighten and plunge into ice water; or a hair dryer at a low setting passed over the part, straighten when warm then the ice water thing. 

In other words: heat, straighten, cool. 

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On 2/14/2018 at 10:16 AM, Sildani said:

Either boiling water, then straighten and plunge into ice water; or a hair dryer at a low setting passed over the part, straighten when warm then the ice water thing. 

In other words: heat, straighten, cool. 

Thanks I’ve heard of this method but wasn’t sure it would work on this type of plastic. I heard it works great on the more bendy plastic but I’ll be sure to try it out this weekend. Any idea on how long to leave it in the boiling water? 

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Just until it heats up the plastic.  For a head laser, probably 10 seconds or so. 

A bit of a warning on this technique - if you go overboard, you can warp the plastic worse than it already is.  So just concentrate on getting the plastic warm/hot so you can bend it back to the right shape before cooling it.  I went too far on a Bandai VF-27 gun and pretty much ruined it.  I think the Yamato plastic is a bit more forgiving though.  Don't be too afraid, but do be careful.

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1 hour ago, mickyg said:

Just until it heats up the plastic.  For a head laser, probably 10 seconds or so. 

A bit of a warning on this technique - if you go overboard, you can warp the plastic worse than it already is.  So just concentrate on getting the plastic warm/hot so you can bend it back to the right shape before cooling it.  I went too far on a Bandai VF-27 gun and pretty much ruined it.  I think the Yamato plastic is a bit more forgiving though.  Don't be too afraid, but do be careful.

2nd this! I ruined a head laser by heating it too long. Warm water is best.

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Posted (edited)

Just a quick submission from what I wrote in the other thread. Issue with locked shoulder cover on VF-1 v2 Yamato / Arcadia due to dried paint smudge on inner shoulder cover :

Apart from the normal cracked hinges, one of the shoulder covers wouldn't move. Seems to be a rare case...anyone experienced this? Probably some residual glue seeped in somewhere & locked it in place. Going to patiently figure this out.

EDITED : Pried the sides of the shoulder cover, heard faint crackling sound (i.e harden glue breaks) and now shoulder is free! Inspected the areas and saw dried smugdes of white paint on the biceps (Picture 2). Someone accidentally sprayed paint during assembly 10+ years ago and it dried, locking the shoulders to the biceps. Glad it was an easy fix. 

Also, the diameter of the shoulder pins feels a teeny-weeny bit large for the shoulder hinge holes, presumably for minimal interference fit. Should I find replacement pins that are slightly smaller or just grind the original pins? The pin ends are pretty clean (no burrs), which explains why the outer hinges are intact & only the inner hinges crack (Picture 3).

IMG_20180303_133745.jpg.1141d9271c311389e75677eacb239ea8.jpg180303_141810.png.3ccc432c6c799f808ab336d46d88d648.png180303_134738.thumb.png.5bb0a4eb60c8cb6b33537f664a425847.png

Edited by aaajin

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Question: Does styrofoam packaging damage toys (e.g. paint, tampo, etc) when left alone and in contact with each other under long term conditions?

I noticed that most toys that are packed in styrofoam are usually wrapped in plastic first. Is this because the styrofoam can damage it?

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Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, ArchieNov said:

Question: Does styrofoam packaging damage toys (e.g. paint, tampo, etc) when left alone and in contact with each other under long term conditions?

I noticed that most toys that are packed in styrofoam are usually wrapped in plastic first. Is this because the styrofoam can damage it?

Packing of items in styrofoam may be a concern in cases of long term exposure to high humidity, as the foam can become moisture-saturated due to the network of interstitial gaps between cells. Plastic should be used as a moisture barrier between the item in question and the foam.

Edited by Shizuka the Cat
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1 hour ago, ArchieNov said:

Question: Does styrofoam packaging damage toys (e.g. paint, tampo, etc) when left alone and in contact with each other under long term conditions?

I noticed that most toys that are packed in styrofoam are usually wrapped in plastic first. Is this because the styrofoam can damage it?

From personal experience I've seen that being in direct contact with Styrofoam over a long period of time can damage paint. It may vary depending on the type of paint and maybe atmospheric conditions, but it's best to not risk it and always put a layer of plastic wrap between the paint and Styrofoam. 

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Posted (edited)

I figured I would put my question in this "Macross Maintenance" thread, as I think my question would be somewhat appropriate.

I am thinking about buying some krylon, so that I can spray the glass in front of my display cabinet with a UV-resistant coating.

I just wanted to see if people here would know if that is a good or bad idea, before I go and do it?

Thanks!

Edited by Shizuka the Cat

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Probably better off just moving the cabinet so it's not facing direct sunlight. 

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19 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

@Shizuka the Cat Is your cabinet facing the sun/sunrays?

The cabinets are not facing the sun, but I do wonder if my overhead lights and reflections of sunlight against white walls are of any concern.

I don't want my valkyries yellowing, the way I have seen the old Takatoku/Bandai 1/55 scale valkyries yellow in pictures on the internet.

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Posted (edited)
59 minutes ago, Shizuka the Cat said:

I figured I would put my question in this "Macross Maintenance" thread, as I think my question would be somewhat appropriate.

I am thinking about buying some krylon, so that I can spray the glass in front of my display cabinet with a UV-resistant coating.

I just wanted to see if people here would know if that is a good or bad idea, before I go and do it?

Thanks!

Interesting solution. Have you considered using UV tint?

25 minutes ago, Lolicon said:

Probably better off just moving the cabinet so it's not facing direct sunlight. 

This is the dilemma. Sometimes, the best or only place for a cabinet is exposed to direct sunlight. I've considered tinting the window with UV tint but never got around to it. So I have to resort to placing cabinets out of direct light as you suggest. Would be interesting to hear other solutions. 

@Shizuka the Cat have you used the spray before and how effective is it? Could you just treat the window glass instead? I'm not sure how good the spray works but you can definitely get nearly clear tint that filters 99%+ UVA/UVB. 

Edited by Slave IV

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The tinting sounds like a preferable solution to spraying. Problem with spraying Krylon is that you'll probably just end up obscuring the glass, unless you can get a perfectly even layer with no dust or anything on it.

My only experience with working with krylon is when printing my own decals, and the layer of krylon is not even remotely smooth, not over the entire surface of the decal sheet. 

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9 minutes ago, Lolicon said:

The tinting sounds like a preferable solution to spraying. Problem with spraying Krylon is that you'll probably just end up obscuring the glass, unless you can get a perfectly even layer with no dust or anything on it.

My only experience with working with krylon is when printing my own decals, and the layer of krylon is not even remotely smooth, not over the entire surface of the decal sheet. 

That's good to know. Thanks for the input!

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So I’ve been displaying my Yamato/Arcadia valks on their landing gears for a couple of years now, and I’ve noticed their rubber tires seem to be slowly “leaking away”. I feel like they’re gonna disintegrate eventually. Any way to prevent this? If not, are there any easily available ways to replace the tires?

Oddly enough, I don’t have this same issue (yet) with my Bandai valks. But those are displayed with their landing gears stowed and on their stands (since they come with them). Does having them stowed actually slow down the deterioration process?

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I have over 10 of my Yamato ver2 birds in fighter mode sitting on their gear and have had for years on glass shelves in a sealed curio cabinet....no issues here.  Just like new. 

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Posted (edited)

The rubber can interact with the surface you have them displayed on. For example I had my Aoshima Gokin Aliens APC which has rubber tires displayed on an IKEA Billy shelf. It is painted particle board. Over the course of maybe 6 months I went to roll the APC and noticed the tires were beginning to melt onto shelf. They had a visible flat spot on tires where they were coming into contact with shelf. Also the shelf was tacky where the tires were touching. I cleaned tires off and put in my glass shelves Detolf and it's been there for years. No more issue. When it comes to rubber treads or tires or boots for figures always display on glass. 

Edited by SuperDimensionalDave
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What you described above is EXACTLY what was happening to my tires. However, mine have always been displayed on a glass surface inside a glass cabinet though, so not sure why it remedied your issue but didn’t for me. Must be something else other than the surface.

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38 minutes ago, ArchieNov said:

What you described above is EXACTLY what was happening to my tires. However, mine have always been displayed on a glass surface inside a glass cabinet though, so not sure why it remedied your issue but didn’t for me. Must be something else other than the surface.

Yeah in my case it seemed the paint or stain or whatever they coated furniture with was reacting with the rubber. Man that sucks. Sorry to hear. Maybe hit them with something like Gumi Fledge or some other rubber treatment. Just make sure it's silicone free. Aka not Armorall 

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