HardlyNever Posted September 3, 2016 Share Posted September 3, 2016 Thanks for the detailed response, Diva. I was looking at the thing more this morning, and came to realize basically what you were saying. The problem is, I wasn't able to glue the broken hinge back into the exact perfect position, so it hangs out a bit, making it even more likely to catch the bottom of the backplate. The good news is, I was able to get the backpack back in fighter position (following your advice), I just had to be EXTREMELY careful. Since it has the super parts and the backpack needs to be up even in fighter mode to have the fastpack on, I'll probably just leave it up most of the time. It is nice to know I can get it back down, if I really want to, though. Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) The Diva formerly known as Chronocidal. Does anyone have comparison pics with the VF-1S TV version? Would be interesting to see how the white compares I don't have pics but it has the same white as the Yamato TV Roy 1S. Edited September 4, 2016 by no3Ljm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Amuses me when people do mix up the name tags with forum ranks, but I completely missed when I achieved that rank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardlyNever Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Oh sorry Chrono, didn't realize this board had ranks like that. Well, thanks for the help, Chrono. Unfortunately, I'm having another issue now, that I posted in the noob FAQ thread. I'll going to copy it below, if anyone can help, that would be amazing: "My specific issue is I can't seem to get the die-cast flaps that are on either side of the cock-pit totally raised and flush with the chest piece. I'm already seeing some whitening of the plastic near one of the shoulder hinges, so I really don't want to force anything. I'm not sure if this is an issue other people have, but even in the transformation videos to battroid from gerwalk, that particular step seems to be one people have some trouble with (separating the two die cast flaps from the chest piece). I guess I'll just leave it in battroid for a while." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loop Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 LOL, Diva.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardlyNever Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Too much overwatch, I guess. At least she has a mech. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) Too much overwatch, I guess. At least she has a mech. *snip* You can post this in the Video Games thread though. Just saying. Edited September 4, 2016 by no3Ljm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Oh sorry Chrono, didn't realize this board had ranks like that. Well, thanks for the help, Chrono. Unfortunately, I'm having another issue now, that I posted in the noob FAQ thread. I'll going to copy it below, if anyone can help, that would be amazing: "My specific issue is I can't seem to get the die-cast flaps that are on either side of the cock-pit totally raised and flush with the chest piece. I'm already seeing some whitening of the plastic near one of the shoulder hinges, so I really don't want to force anything. I'm not sure if this is an issue other people have, but even in the transformation videos to battroid from gerwalk, that particular step seems to be one people have some trouble with (separating the two die cast flaps from the chest piece). I guess I'll just leave it in battroid for a while." Have to admit, I'm not sure which die-cast flaps you mean. Are you talking about the plate that the intakes attach to on the underside? That's a single piece that the cockpit slides onto, and you have to pull the nose down/forward before you can slip the chest plate back behind the cockpit. If you want to play it safe, you can actually pull the nose section entirely off the plate, fold the chest down, and then reattach the nose afterward, but you have to be careful to fold the neck joint out of the way to get it back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 The tint is more purplish than pink"Bandai ultraviolet white". Most common in Gundams, but a good DX example is a renewal Alto.Far better than being pink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardlyNever Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 Have to admit, I'm not sure which die-cast flaps you mean. Are you talking about the plate that the intakes attach to on the underside? That's a single piece that the cockpit slides onto, and you have to pull the nose down/forward before you can slip the chest plate back behind the cockpit. If you want to play it safe, you can actually pull the nose section entirely off the plate, fold the chest down, and then reattach the nose afterward, but you have to be careful to fold the neck joint out of the way to get it back on. Thanks again for the help, Chronocidal. A bit of context was lost on that post above. I'm actually trying to go from battroid > gerwalk here (I was asking for reverse transformation videos in that post). Below are the die-cast metal flaps I'm talking about: I can't get them to align properly with the chest plate above. I can get it closer than it shows in the picture, but it feels like I'm forcing things. Any help getting it back into the position for gerwalk/fighter mode would be great. On a related note, I've noticed a white weak area on one of the plastic pieces that serves as a sort of hinge. Besides obviously being careful about any transforming that involves that spot (which is kinda what my post is about), any advice on what to do about that? That white line goes through to the other side of that piece, but it isn't as visible. Is there any way to reinforce/protect that area in anyway? I've had the toy less than a week and I feel like I'm going to break something else on it (besides the tail-flap hinge I posted about earlier). Clearly I'm doing something(s) wrong when transforming this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chronocidal Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 I think what's probably keeping it from going back to gerwalk is most likely that the nose isn't pulled out far enough to let the chest plate sink back down and lock. The nose has to slide back and forth on that metal plate that the two tabs are on, and it can be really tight at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Negotiator Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 yes, pull out the nose...wiggle it if you have to, but the worst that can happen is if the nose comes out completely , which is fine because that's a feature... just slide it back in along the rails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sildani Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Agreed, the nose must be pulled forward more. Then everything should fall into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erizai Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Great tips sharing Chrono, I had bent my VF-1J once, now I applied the same Technic every time when transforming... Received and open my two boxes of Roy, happy with it... Few things I noticed, The white is nice, on the plane, no pink like the Hikaru, (the white has some hint of yellow tint, off white they called which is good) Missiles holder still using left over pink part SS part is having a green tint (I would call it a dark green) is it good? as I don't have the SS part before. The box art is nice, I think I will keep the box, until i really have space issue, before scrapping it. Probably take photo to keep as digital. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barurutor Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Wow, that's the first time I've seen someone stress mark the shoulder plates connecting the chest and the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HardlyNever Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Thanks guys! That was the issue. I had removed (and replaced) the nose on an earlier transformation trying to get the heat shield back in place (it seemed really stiff at first, but the heat shield slides pretty easily now). I moved the nose about a quarter-inch forward and everything lined up. Any advice about the white stress mark on that plate (besides "be careful when transforming it")? Is there anything I can do to strengthen that area at all? If I had to guess, it probably happened when I was going from gerwalk>battroid the first time, but I'm not really sure. Thanks again for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Glad that it worked out fine. Regarding the shoulder plates, yeah, I think the only thing you can do for now is be careful transforming it. Edited September 5, 2016 by no3Ljm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gundam@EFSF Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 [align=left]Macross 1/60【完全變形VF-1S】(可有記起愛ver.) feat HMR[/align] [align=left]As good as expected, and the Hi Metal R is not bad too![/align]http://gundamatefsf.blogspot.hk/2016/09/macross-160vf-1sver-feat-hmr.html [align=left][float=left][/float][/align] [align=left][float=left][/float][/align] [align=center][float=left][/float][/align] [align=center][float=left][/float][/align] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erizai Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Very nice photo @ Gundam@EFSF Color is accurate at least to my screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neko878 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Question. With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenius Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Question. With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards. Where is it pivoting that causes it to fall backwards? at the hips? at the feet? Have you recessed the feet in battroid mode? Obviously there is more weight back there so some poses may not work but I don't remember a neutral pose being a problem with the strike parts attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universe1010 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Still waiting for mine via SAL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Question. With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards. A little bit heavy but not too much that the Valk can handle. What you can do too is to angle the hip joint outward or the knee joint outward. And spread the legs apart. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sildani Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Pivoting the strike cannon forward will help too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hikuro Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Still waiting for mine via SAL LMAO! That's gonna be some long ass wait time. Sigh......wish I could afford one these days....but nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vi-RS Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Check the way they pose the angle at intake and feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Universe1010 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 LMAO! That's gonna be some long ass wait time. Sigh......wish I could afford one these days....but nope. Normally a week or two. I don't mind waiting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vi-RS Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 This my all time favorite pose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F360 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Question. With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards. it's best to take a pic front and side view prefer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treatment Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Question. With the strike pack on in battroid mode, is it normally kinda back heavy? I have to adjust the figure from falling backwards. Depends on how you actually pose it on your display... neutral pose: http://i.imgur.com/YjqZmVgl.jpg action pose: http://i.imgur.com/PYkvmmsl.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treatment Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 it's best to take a pic front and side view prefer I do agree with this suggestion. I'm sure some (if not all) of us will spot the particular issue of your valk falling backwards when you show us a pic of how you display it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roi_Fokka Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Question about additional markings: Are they stickers or waterslides? I'm aware the previous Arcadia VF-1Ss included both, but wanted to confirm for this release. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) Question about additional markings: Are they stickers or waterslides? I'm aware the previous Arcadia VF-1Ss included both, but wanted to confirm for this release. Stickers. I didn't know that they've included waterslide decal on Arcadia Hikaru 1S. Didn't bother on checking the stuff at the back of the container for that one. Edited September 7, 2016 by no3Ljm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roi_Fokka Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Stickers. I didn't know that they've included waterslide decal on Arcadia Hikaru 1S. Didn't bother on checking the stuff at the back of the container for that one. Ah, gotcha and thank you. Yeah, I feel more comfortable working with waterslides so maybe I'll look into getting a custom sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neko878 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the tips everyone! I got it adjusted where it stands better. Edited September 7, 2016 by neko878 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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