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Arcadia YF-19 coming in 2014


SCOOPUDA!

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Due to the fact that they fit on those ridges at all would mead me to say it's not a coincidence. There's no other reason for those little mounting points to exist otherwise. I think there are probably a few changes to the design in the movie that lets them fit around the normal wings. You'd probably have to lengthen the wing recess on the outside face of the boosters.

Ok.. now I'm even more curious.. I know people have mounted the v.1 VF-25 packs on the renewals, and they fit kinda okay, if not securely.. I wonder how hard it would be to modify a set of the older packs to fit the YF-19 properly? I don't feel like hacking into a renewal set to modify them, but if the old versions work nearly as well... :)

Edited by Chronocidal
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All it would have taken was a small block at the base of the joint that could fold forward and back just like on the Bandai Valks. The Ankles would be perfect then.

But that block you mention already exists, only that it folds inwards and outwards. IMO that's the joint that really counts for having a good A stance with a tilted down nose in Gerwalk mode.

Btw, must point out that high speed mode does work with the fast packs attached. Tried it out. Only one peg doesnt clip in which is hardlt noticeable really as it looks good overall still.

Just be slightly careful while doing it.

image5301.jpg

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But that block you mention already exists, only that it folds inwards and outwards. IMO that's the joint that really counts for having a good A stance with a tilted down nose in Gerwalk mode.

I still believe to this day that someone just completely screwed up, and rotated the drawings for that part 90 degrees. The side-to-side motion is helpful, but nowhere near as useful as it would have been front-to-back.

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Boy, look at all of those box art pics with that clearly advertised, grey gunpod.

Does the gunpod collapse for storage the same way as the 19S/F/P in fighter mode?

Yes it collapses for storage like the older 19's.

Regarding instructions, they combined a lot of steps into 1 photo (usually side view) with sections of the Valk outlined to show how parts move together, along with Japanese text descriptions. More DX chogokin style than Yamato style. I suspect a lot of confusing trial and error if this is your first 19 style Valk. Go read the older Yamato instructions, they will clear things up.

Edited by barurutor
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I still believe to this day that someone just completely screwed up, and rotated the drawings for that part 90 degrees. The side-to-side motion is helpful, but nowhere near as useful as it would have been front-to-back.

^_^ May be, but I guess they should have already solved that mistake? IMO, considering how forward heavy the VF-19 are I think the side-to-side motion is more useful than the front-to-back one. Notice I said more useful, not nicer.

Could any of you lucky guys who already got the new YF-19 tell us whether it bends forward in gerwalk mode more than the VF-19's or not and how do the ankle joints feel?

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But that block you mention already exists, only that it folds inwards and outwards. IMO that's the joint that really counts for having a good A stance with a tilted down nose in Gerwalk mode.

You keep assuming my issue is it can't point it's nose towards the ground, that isn't the case. As a matter of fact it's so forward-heavy it'll do that no matter what.

Edited by Mommar
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Which joint do u mean? The forward swivel hinge for the GERWALK?

Yep, sorry, that one. A few people actually broke a little tab out of the upper hip because they tried to drop the gerwalk hinge lower than it's designed to go. It only bends about 45 degrees down.

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You keep assuming my issue is it can't point it's nose towards the ground, that isn't the case. As a matter of fact it's so forward-heavy it'll do that no matter what.

The only thing I've always assumed is that you like posing your valks in gerwalk mode because you always mention it. Apart from the fact that you seem to have issues with the ankle joints of your 19's I have no idea how they stay or whether you like pointing their noses towards the ground or not. Gerwalk mode isn't my favorite one so although the ankle joints of my 19's are also quite weak I don't care very much, but I think I still can express my opinion on the subject and share my way to overcome the problem along with some pictures to illustrate it.

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2 transforms right through, no hassles, and loving it. I prefer without the FP's for sure, but then i was never a HUGE fan of the 19 FP's anyway.

Panel lining has begun

Oh! please be sure to post a few pics after you've completed the panel lines! I was thinking of doing the same with mine when it arrives.. I have a "double nuts" which has been panel lined and it looks great!

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Just picked mine up. Beautiful and feels very solid compared to the old Yammies. The front of the jet isn't as nice, due to the seams used during transformation, but thanks to the diecast parts, there's not much flapping about. However, it's still miles ahead of Bandai's valks, even if I do love the 25.

If Arcadia ever make a 27 or 25 I would be, in an Ahnold voice, in "hehvaaan"!

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Question - how does one go abt opening the canopy properly? I know you have to press down on the black section at the nose.

But, I can't seem to get it to open fully without messing up the nose.

Haven't seen the instructions yet as I've just popped it out for a quick spin. Looks like it takes a bit of fiddling as the front section is comprised of so many pieces.

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Question - how does one go abt opening the canopy properly? I know you have to press down on the black section at the nose.

But, I can't seem to get it to open fully without messing up the nose.

The only way to fully open the cockpit is to drop the nose cone downward.

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The only way to fully open the cockpit is to drop the nose cone downward.

But there are plenty of pictures of canopy fully opened without the nose cone pushed downwards. So I feel like I'm missing something here.

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But there are plenty of pictures of canopy fully opened without the nose cone pushed downwards. So I feel like I'm missing something here.

Press the black triangle to get it all started, drop the nose cone a bit, pull the canopy fully open, then push the nose cone back up. The black triangle will still have to remain depressed however.

Edited by Mommar
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After looking at more pics it seems to me the diecast parts are still color-matched to the older shade of tan originally shown but it looks like they were never updated to match the newer, lighter color.

Yep, I havent figured out another way.

panel lining is done, i'll do the stickers tomorrow and shoot some pics.

What kind of decaling are you planning to do?

Edited by Mommar
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Since NY are taking their sweet time handpicking a crappy QC copy to send me - lol - to those who've got it and who've also got a VF-4G: is the plastic as crisp? Or is it closer to the VF-11's, which i think is crisper than the VF-1? I may not be putting this across correctly but if someone understands do let me know !

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Since NY are taking their sweet time handpicking a crappy QC copy to send me - lol - to those who've got it and who've also got a VF-4G: is the plastic as crisp? Or is it closer to the VF-11's, which i think is crisper than the VF-1? I may not be putting this across correctly but if someone understands do let me know !

I'm waiting for my copy from NY too. What was the problem with yours exactly?

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