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kyekye

Yamato 1/60 VF-1 Kit Custom/Detailing by Kye

Which one will this be in the end?  

89 members have voted

  1. 1. I have some more time to decide if this will be VF-1S Focker Strike or VF-1S Hikaru Strike before mid-painting/decal pass. Please help me choose one!

    • VF-1S Focker Strike Pack DYRL
      54
    • VF-1S Hikaru Strike Pack DYRL
      35


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Now I know who hogged all the crazy... You, sir, are a mad genius. Absolutely amazing; those lit feet thrusters, specially, just blew me away. :blink:

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There's always a nice surprise with every new update.

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Hmmm... Thanks, but I'm married :ph34r:

Damn. lol

But seriously, this is really fricken awesome. Excited to see more progress and the eventual end result.

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Well I have to admit it looks like a concentration of intelligence and cleverness shown every week.

Keep it up, I like where it's going (yeah, beyond stars ;-) )!

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Added poll -red or yellow!

I've been swing between 2 like 6 times a day. Please help me decide!!

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Focker all the focking way.

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I just got the image of Hikaru in his Strike 1S blasting Bodolza at the end. So epic.

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Of course you realize once this is done you will be required to take thousands upon thousands of high quality photos I can print out into a giant, life-sized binder I can then cuddle with.

While you're customizing the holy hell out of this thing why not go with your own scheme as well?

Edited by Mommar

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Of course you realize once this is done you will be required to take thousands upon thousands of high quality photos I can print out into a giant, life-sized binder I can then cuddle with.

While you're customizing the holy hell out of this thing why not go with your own scheme as well?

Because Roy deserves a proper monument to his epicness. Since he can't build a 1S the size of that Gundam statue in Japan this will have to suffice for now.

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Man... I can't decide!!!

It's like Sophie's Choice!

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Because Roy deserves a proper monument to his epicness. Since he can't build a 1S the size of that Gundam statue in Japan this will have to suffice for now.

Epicness? Max never got shot...

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How about a low viz scheme that will pick up all the details instead of painting it to another white valkyrie?

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Epicness? Max never got shot...

Max wasn't in the game as long as Roy either. Not to mention Roy sacrificed himself so that that sally Hikaru could escape. That act alone warrants Kyekye's attention. Or low viz Focker would be acceptable.

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Epicness? Max never got shot...

yeah but he ditched the awesome VF-1 and opted to go into potentially his final battle in a Queadluun Rau....thus pu$$y whipped.... ;) (he then is never able to live that decision down from his fellow UNS pilot buddies and eventually his emasculation leads to his marriage troubles and gaudy outfits).... :lol:

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LOL :lol: . you guys are not a big help here.. Those arguments are same as the fight in my head for choices.

Please don't turn this into who's better character debate.

Just cast your vote and I'll put a stop right before I get to paint the color.

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Roy got shot... changed... walked home... played the guitar... and spent the last moments with the love of his life. He probably went to a bar, drank a bottle of whiskey, got into a bar fight where he kicked ass and stole a ride inbetween all that. :D

Aesthetically, I'd go for the red and black with the black heatshield.

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Go for Roy's VF-1S - the yellow/black/grey just has a more realistic look - think of it next to a Jolly Rogers F-14.

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Roy. Max was good an all, but only Roy had the balls to suit up and fly drunk. It can't be Hikaru, cuz if it wasn't for Hikaru...Roy would still be alive...and more than likely still drunk. Again, Roy...you know you want to.

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O.K. I guess it's leaning towards the 1S Roy Strike, but I'll still wait until the end for final decision.

BTW, I checked the Duracoat paint Nghia mentioned earlier. Here is some info I got from them.

It's basically resin based paint which is similar to what I had in mind. My solution was clear resin coating on top of regular paint, but these guys actually sell pre-colored spray-able resin version.

I guess there are ups and downs for this.

  • Resin based paint must be sprayed (no brush paint)
  • Can't do much weathering/oil wash if you want top coat with resin on top of resin
  • It will be add thickness more than regular paint.
  • Takes 4-6 weeks to fully cure the paint
  • delicate masking will be very hard for multiple colors. Probably requires a lot of experience with using this material..

Either way the key is to clean the surface very well before paint. I'll do some test and update later.

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ROY ALL THE FREAKING WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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BTW, I checked the Duracoat paint Nghia mentioned earlier. Here is some info I got from them.

Either way the key is to clean the surface very well before paint. I'll do some test and update later.

Wow, I am truly in awe of your modeling skills. This is great!

Nghia had mentioned Duracoat a while back and I got some. Still don't have a finished valk painted with it, but I did a bunch of sprue tests and joints and can attest to its durability. I put a sprue in the lathe after curing (yeah, it does take a couple weeks for full cure) and put another painted sprue against it. It ran for several thousand rotations before it wore through. They also make two kinds, their normal one and a self lubricating. The SL is slightly more durable, but you're right about not weathering it. Don't know if you can get away with it on the regular. You might be able to do a wash with reduced duracoat after letting the base sit for about a week, but I wouldn't test that on this! ;)

Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for sharing this!

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Kyekye, are you going to do weathering?

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Wow, I am truly in awe of your modeling skills. This is great!

Nghia had mentioned Duracoat a while back and I got some. Still don't have a finished valk painted with it, but I did a bunch of sprue tests and joints and can attest to its durability. I put a sprue in the lathe after curing (yeah, it does take a couple weeks for full cure) and put another painted sprue against it. It ran for several thousand rotations before it wore through. They also make two kinds, their normal one and a self lubricating. The SL is slightly more durable, but you're right about not weathering it. Don't know if you can get away with it on the regular. You might be able to do a wash with reduced duracoat after letting the base sit for about a week, but I wouldn't test that on this! ;)

Can't wait to see the finished product. Thanks for sharing this!

Oh! Thanks for the info!

I also received a test color and clear coat for testing, but haven't tried it yet. Will do a test next week and post the result here.

Kyekye, are you going to do weathering?

Just a little bit of oil and fuel stain here and there+ minor paint scratches. Not like Yamato weathering version.

---------------------

This weekend's summary.. Well I watched 2 movies! How about that.. :ph34r:

For the project, it's slow as usual.

I'll just post the images now and edit/add description tomorrow..(now added :ph34r: )

--------------------

This side thrust nozzle design and size doesn't seem set in stone. Sometimes it's smaller and placed under the wing base, but sometimes it's larger and overlaps with the wing base. For the design, I think it looks better when it's larger and overlapped. So, I copied the original part and added wider base + some detailing. Now I'll need to cut out the underside wing-base to fit this in.

Also re-worked the top side of foot metal parts for better fit and smoother motion.

9067022134_e176a9113d_b.jpg

This took me a whole day.. I tried 2 different method i thought would work, but the rotation and the actuator cylinder length didn't work out. So I ended up adding a shift on the top. Now it works with piston action and all! Also added circle marks on the wheel side. I had to loose the torque links thou. I'll find a way to put them back.

9067022056_14eafb3bb0_b.jpg

I've been thinking about how to strengthen the weak shoulder hinge. Well, nothing works better than metal for this! Added metal backing inside the weak hinge cover and fixed it with 4 screws! Also added metal rod inside the ball joint connection. I think it's good now. ;) I only need to make 3 more to fix my other broken shoulders... :angry:

9064795527_2c6fb663c4_b.jpg

That's all for this weekend.

Edited by kyekye

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Wow....I am totally blown away every time you post something new.

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Simply amazing... way to go KyeKye...

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so, any plans to redo the foot all together to added the suspension gimmick?

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