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MechTech

Beginner's Model Building Construction BASICS

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I've started painting using tamiya acrylic paint and I don't think I've done such a good job and wish to remove it from my model, any suggestion on how to remove it?

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You wish to take it off the whole part? Depending on the plastic, you can leave the whole part on windex, simple green or pine-sol or ISO alcohol. Test out the part first make sure that it doesn't soften the plastic. If it's resin, don't use ISO, just use Pine-Sol.

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Mimorem:

Simplest method is to douse a paper towel with Isoropanol (rubbing alcohol) a gently wipe away the paint. It strips it really quick.

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What type of paint is good to use? I used tamiya paint but they dried so fast that if you tried to redo a patch it really stuffs it up.

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What the others said for thinning/stripping is spot on! Tamiya paint is great! You either have to put it on by brush with a fairly thick coat and fairly quickly if you want to feather out the paint (most model paints are like this). The next and BEST method (for any paint) is to airbrush it - which I'm guessing you're not. If that is way out of your budget, spray paint cans should be considered. Hope that helps! - MT

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Actually I find tamiya a terrible brush paint. Far too hot: when you put more paint down it eats the under layer. The only one that I have never had any problems with as either a brush or airbrush paint is gunze. However with them you need to invest in both the paint and various thinners and paint retarders. I also think they have the most diverse line of paints behind Vallejo.

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I'm using a brush, the main thing I'm concern about is applying too much of the paint making it too thick and the line panel might not be visible. I tried one Mr. Hobby paint that was great cos I could paint over and it wouldn't show that layering but I wasn't sure whether it was the paint color that did it or how it generally is.

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Mr Color has a brand of thinners and retarders, which you need to use if you're going to paint with them. Vallejo is also a very good brush painting paint, which you might want to look at.

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If I'm brush painting, I prefer to use enamel paints. I find them much easier to use due to their self leveling properties and stickier nature. Downside is that they dry slower and are much more difficult to remove if you mess up.

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oh I just applied the Mr color without adding anything to it. I dont have much model that requires paint so I didn't invest much on it. I'll see if they have Vallejo or just walk around to find it, they have gunze.

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If you're looking at trying to make your own custom water-slide decals, I recommend these (or these).

Only drawback is that you have to use a laser printer, but they work pretty well, especially for a novice like me (when it comes to decal making).

Just print your images, and you're done. No need to apply a top-coat before soaking in the water. 10-15 seconds of hot water, and you're good to go!

I used the clear, and they are clear, so you'll have to make sure your base coat of the decal area is either white or light grey for the best results.

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If I'm brush painting, I prefer to use enamel paints. I find them much easier to use due to their self leveling properties and stickier nature. Downside is that they dry slower and are much more difficult to remove if you mess up.

What Vifam said, for brush painting I use enamels too.

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I was wondering whether GUNZE Mr Hobby is the same as the normal mr hobby hobby colors? The store where I buy paint is out of stock and would take a month to restock so I was thinking of buying online. Is there any online store that sells them for cheap?

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So I just bought My hobby H61 but apparently that isn't the correct one. H61 that was written in the instruction is burnt iron yet the one I bought says it's gray....how do I know which one is the correct color according to the instructions?

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guess it might work out? I think I just spend $20 on laquer base paint rather than the usual acrylic based...

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from the looks of it, they both look gray to me

http://www.mech9.com/blog/2010/01/mr-color-solvent-based-paint-color-chart/

MR Color C61 is labelled Burnt Iron or tempered iron

MR Hobby H61 is IJN Gray

Burnt Iron is a metallic. It's a darker, slightly yellow/orange-ish grey.

IJN grey is a flat, medium grey with, if I remember correctly, a slight blue/blue-green tint.

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What type of paint is good to use? I used tamiya paint but they dried so fast that if you tried to redo a patch it really stuffs it up.

One of the mistakes people make (especially beginners) is not letting the paint dry before putting on another coat.

With a quick-drying paint like Tamiya acrylics, many people have a tendency to paint the area, then immediately load some more paint onto the brush to go over the area again to fill in the spots the paint didn't quite cover.

This is a mistake.

Tamiya acrylics dry so quickly, that you are likely to have one area congealing whilst your are blending in with more paint. This will create an uneven surface finish.

The best finish will be gained by painting a single area with ONE STROKE - don't even go over it a second time with the same loaded brush!

Let it dry for 15-30 mins before you go over it again. It will probably be touch-dry in a few minutes, depending on a number of factors, but be sure to let it fully dry before you go over it again. Three thinner coats of Tamiya acrylic over a couple of hours will provide a much, much better finish than trying to load your brush up with paint and going over the same area a few times to 'do it all in one go'.

Even better: thin Tamiya down a little before you paint, and be prepared to do a couple of coats.

Have patience between coats and you will produce a better result with your hand painting.

Edited by PetarB

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So I just bought My hobby H61 but apparently that isn't the correct one. H61 that was written in the instruction is burnt iron yet the one I bought says it's gray....how do I know which one is the correct color according to the instructions?

Mr. Hobby is their acrylic line.

Mr. Color is their lacquer line.

Different codes for each type. With an H in front of it, it's the acrylic line. Burnt Iron is actually H76. 61 is the number you need for the lacquer type.

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Mr Color has a brand of thinners and retarders, which you need to use if you're going to paint with them. Vallejo is also a very good brush painting paint, which you might want to look at.

Mr.Color sells something called leveling thinner, which is a premixed bottle of thinner and retarder. Works beautifully with Mr. Color paints.

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If you can get hold of it, it's highly recommended. Unfortunately my local hobby stores (all two of them!) never seem to carry it.

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Vallejo paints are perfect for handbrushing, because they are made for it. Just use water to thin them enough and use a good brush to paint them with. And they have different ranges for you to choose from (Model Air, Game color, Model Color, Military color).

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just started with the lacquer paint, it's thick to apply and it's not very even, guess I have to thin it out somehow to do it better. Finding water based acrylic to be better to use so far

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what glue everyone is using to fix the missiles carrier to the wings hardpoints in a painted build?

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what glue everyone is using to fix the missiles carrier to the wings hardpoints in a painted build?

Tamiya extra thin cement. Why do you ask?

Edited by Vifam7

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Tamiya extra thin cement. Why do you ask?

i planned to leave the missiles on my hasegawa vf 25. i thought it can be easily added anytime after painting, but right now, I dont want to risk adding cement on a painted build (I already messed it many times already)

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i guess ill just use cement after removing the paint in hard points.

question again:

if i need 1/72 decals, what is the best solution?

(like bluerose, enigma, black aces)

black aces is available, albeit, at a higher price but i dont think it is wise to buy it since I believe it is the same VF-1 with different decals.

I heard about anasazi or devin white, but apparently, he already stopped producing decals.

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Weren't those actual decal sets from Hasegawa?

You can try making them yourself. You will prbably need both clear and white blank decals.

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While prowling various model building forums I saw people mention something called "watch crystal cement" to glue transparent parts. Anyone have any experience with this?

Also, on the subject of aircraft canopies, anyone know a good way to get that gold tint?

Like this:

640px-Lockheed_Martin_F-22A_Raptor_JSOH.

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I know there are some dedicated glues available in the states micro clear or similar.

Personally had great results with standard white/wood glue, you want a glue that dries clear and is easily cleaned up.

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Thanks mechtech... I'm going to try that GS stuff out next time I go to Michaels.

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