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2 hours ago, blackconvoy_D01 said:

I'm going to try this too. I want to keep the esthetic of pistons and their use in armored mode. Thanks Kuma!

No problem.  fair warning you only need to take off a razor thin layer or two off.

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4 hours ago, Kuma Style said:

I took the pistons out on Stick and expanded the holes they slid into as wellas rimming with a bit of shock oil and it worked wonders.  I'm extra glad that I did now because I didn't even take that into account.

---------

Was going to review the 3z Ingram but that has to wait and Yellow is next up... is the q.c. better than the previous two?

Cool, I'm waiting for your review then!!!

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Double post

Edited by Ignacio Ocamica

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So this was the first time I broke my rule and preordered a figure from an overseas shop.

I just tried to set up a return with Amazon Japan for my Blowsperior - it might be fine, or maybe eventually the stress mark will lead to a break, and maybe Sentinel won't bother doing anything about it (or maybe they will!), I don't know and don't want to wait to find out.

Then DHL quoted me $155 (!!!) as their cheapest rate for return shipping. I should have paid the extra $20 to preorder from BBTS, that way at least if I had to return it it wouldn't cost me 85% of the purchase price in shipping.

Real annoyed with myself. Tried to save $20 vs buying it domestically, don't really have a lot to spend on this hobby, and now every time I look at it I'm going to wonder... So I guess I'm sitting on it and hoping for the best.

Edited by jeniusornome

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1 hour ago, jeniusornome said:

So this was the first time I broke my rule and preordered a figure from an overseas shop.

I just tried to set up a return with Amazon Japan for my Blowsperior - it might be fine, or maybe eventually the stress mark will lead to a break, and maybe Sentinel won't bother doing anything about it (or maybe they will!), I don't know and don't want to wait to find out.

Then DHL quoted me $155 (!!!) as their cheapest rate for return shipping. I should have paid the extra $20 to preorder from BBTS, that way at least if I had to return it it wouldn't cost me 85% of the purchase price in shipping.

Real annoyed with myself. Tried to save $20 vs buying it domestically, don't really have a lot to spend on this hobby, and now every time I look at it I'm going to wonder... So I guess I'm sitting on it and hoping for the best.  Or maybe I'll sell it to someone who has the patience for this sort of thing. Any takers at $180 shipped in US? Never transformed. Did swap the heads and hands. PM me.

How did you arrange to return yours?  On the International Customer Return form there's a "Bill To" section for Amazon Japan G. K.

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12 hours ago, Mog said:

Haven’t really checked yet.  If it did, it’s either really small, or I really didn’t notice it.

I too got a scratch on my Stick from that part, but it’s kinda hard to spot it, unless you’re really searching for it.

Thanks. Your Stick is 1st or 2nd release? Mine is 1st.  My scratch in Stick’s belly was significant after I transformed it once only. I guess it is a design issue. The pressure between the two parts are too tight. Luckily I took it to Sentinel and they replaced the belly part for me. 

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9 hours ago, Mommar said:

How did you arrange to return yours?  On the International Customer Return form there's a "Bill To" section for Amazon Japan G. K.

I didn’t see that option anywhere. I just went through the normal amazon return process and they said: here’s the invoice you need for customs, to return ship take it to DHL and send it to this address in Chiba. 
 

Is there a different form I need to fill out on AJ, or something in particular I’m supposed to do when I take it to DHL?

 

edit - I see it now. It’s actually on the customs form that was printed out. Not sure how that was missed. Thank you @Mommar!

Edited by jeniusornome

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I've just inspected my bikes and I notice one side of Yellow has white stress mark. Ray has nothing. The worst is Stick : both sides are already cracked!!! OMG!!!  It is an engineering failure!

Edited by Masked Aviator

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My Yellow has either been sitting in a Japanese or US airport for 8 days without moving.

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‘Tis the season. 

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49 minutes ago, Roy Focker said:

My Yellow has either been sitting in a Japanese or US airport for 8 days without moving.

Maybe Customs employees are mecha fans too.

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checked my ray and he is good, have to wait till xmas to check my yellow. my stick however has cracks on both sides and has not been transformed!. I put a little drop of super glue with a toothpick to get into the crack, put a second teeny drop to coat it, hopefully that will strengthen that part and not cause it to break 

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4 hours ago, Sildani said:

‘Tis the season. 

It ain't funny, but it kind of is.

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Dangit, @tekering:D

I was just going to do my usual "paint the visor to make the HUD's display less visible" bit, but then I saw you do this beautiful addition:

On 12/2/2019 at 5:51 AM, tekering said:

Let the retrofitting commence!  :aggressive:

retrofitting.thumb.jpg.b09158cccc675714e986ab88f268b1f5.jpg

I liked that brighter color for the windshield and had to try that with my copy.

I first tried using just Tamiya Clear Orange on the windshield, but its already tinted color made it hard to see the painted orange (the final look went way beyond burnt orange).

Then I tried just painting the windshield burnished gold.  It looked alright, but it was a shade brighter than even the side headlights.

So, I added the Tamiya Clear Orange on top of the gold paint for this effect:

DSC_0539.JPG.051bc660023e4a34a30706d7bba264f3.JPG

Close enough match to the blinker lights on the chest.

 

And yeah, I finally used that Tamiya Clear Green (with a bit of Clear Smoke) to hide the HUD lines:

DSC_0532.JPG.4ff1a30fe374ebd2d02fb2def9b13159.JPG

It actually came out kinda darker than I'd like.  But under certain light it's still pretty translucent:

DSC_0535.JPG.722764ee51f57ff92a312169dda61964.JPGDSC_0534.JPG.32d7f1723c4f3c8a450d04860e32a229.JPG

More pics:

DSC_0538.JPG.9f6f2ab4f8ef9ed790919b7b12c00bd6.JPG

DSC_0537.JPG.44acfedc96e8d4eb0136c99c8b963697.JPG

The boys are settled into the display case and ready for the long wait for their red-armored girl:

DSC_0541.JPG.84449b531139e42b53d8250f5ca0fcda.JPG

Also, checked the above crew and thankfully didn't find any obvious cracks on those troubled joints. 

I usually find it easier to remove the arm gauntlets at the pistons/shock absorbers when I'm going between modes.  So, I wonder if doing that keeps some of the pressure off those particular joints? :unknw:

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5 hours ago, Mog said:

 

DSC_0541.JPG.84449b531139e42b53d8250f5ca0fcda.JPG

Also, checked the above crew and thankfully didn't find any obvious cracks on those troubled joints. 

I usually find it easier to remove the arm gauntlets at the pistons/shock absorbers when I'm going between modes.  So, I wonder if doing that keeps some of the pressure off those particular joints? :unknw:

Nice pic.  Mine had the stress mark and thinning out of the box.  The first time I rotated it, the stress mark was there, even before attaching it to the connecting point and the arm.  

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On 12/15/2019 at 9:29 AM, Roy Focker said:

My Yellow has either been sitting in a Japanese or US airport for 8 days without moving.

They send out an email right before it arrives to let you know they're expecting it soon. If you haven't gotten the email yet, then you're still more than a week away.

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1 hour ago, jenius said:

They send out an email right before it arrives to let you know they're expecting it soon. If you haven't gotten the email yet, then you're still more than a week away.

Thanks:vava:

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54 minutes ago, beatsing said:

So did anyone take up the broken parts with Sentinel?  Did they respond?

 

 

 

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

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4 hours ago, jenius said:

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

It's look hard to replace, here are 2 pic from my Stick, my Rai it's perfect conditions.

 

IMG-2807.jpg

IMG-2808.jpg

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5 hours ago, jenius said:

It needs to be someone in Japan as this product doesn't have a US license. If anyone in Japan is noticing the issue, you should definitely send them a note. They might do something for the Yellow releases... for the other releases it's still good to let them know so they can have a sense for how wide spread it is.

I don't have my toy in front of me, is this even a part that could be replaced or would it take significant work?

Looks like it would need some specific tools.  Like @Perxion photos, there is a round headed screw/nail that holds it to the chest/crotch piece that doesn't pop out, and being flat, doesn't take a philips screwdriver, etc.  That cracked plastic piece connects to the metal arms that hold the guantlets, and the connector looks like a small pin.  Delicate looking pieces.  Some modellers might try, but taking it apart might be hard putting it back together.

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6 minutes ago, beatsing said:

Looks like it would need some specific tools.  Like @Perxion photos, there is a round headed screw/nail that holds it to the chest/crotch piece that doesn't pop out, and being flat, doesn't take a philips screwdriver, etc.  That cracked plastic piece connects to the metal arms that hold the guantlets, and the connector looks like a small pin.  Delicate looking pieces.  Some modellers might try, but taking it apart might be hard putting it back together.

Getting that "screw" with no head out is the trick. I think after that it would not be a big deal figure out a fix.

I'm not sacrificing one of mine to test the theory unless it breaks off 100% though.

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Those are usually large pins. Only way to easily remove them is to heat them directly with something like a soldering iron and then remove with pliers. It might break though. Prying it loose at room temp will guarantee to break the plastic. 
 

But basically, it will break if you try. I’ve never been able to do it successfully, and tried with a lot of junker transformer parts. 
 

unrelated, I still can’t get my return to Amazon Japan done properly. All the shippers are asking me for amazons account number to bill them and I’m like, why would I know that? 

Edited by jeniusornome

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3 hours ago, jeniusornome said:

Those are usually large pins. Only way to easily remove them is to heat them directly with something like a soldering iron and then remove with pliers. It might break though. Prying it loose at room temp will guarantee to break the plastic. 
 

But basically, it will break if you try. I’ve never been able to do it successfully, and tried with a lot of junker transformer parts. 
 

unrelated, I still can’t get my return to Amazon Japan done properly. All the shippers are asking me for amazons account number to bill them and I’m like, why would I know that? 

Let me know if you get it working.  Mine is in the mail and it better not be broken like the other one.  But if it is, I'll have to do a return too.

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If someone has a broken one that they are willing to take a risk with I could get it apart and try to come up with a fix. I can't guarantee anything of course. But I can machine out of just about any metal and I have a sub contractor that can 3D print for me. Well, I guess I can guarantee I can create a fix. I can't guarantee I can create a affordable fix.

Heck, I could re-create the entire thing in 1/2 scale made entirely out of metal for enough money.;)

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@jeniusornome I think you're right, it looks like a large pin that isn't removable without breakage.  The pin on the other side looks like it could be removed with a really tiny pin and hammer, but it might also break.  Shucks.  I really like Yellow but I don't wanna be stuck with a toy with stress mark that is very probably going to break.  

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5 minutes ago, beatsing said:

@jeniusornome I think you're right, it looks like a large pin that isn't removable without breakage.  The pin on the other side looks like it could be removed with a really tiny pin and hammer, but it might also break.  Shucks.  I really like Yellow but I don't wanna be stuck with a toy with stress mark that is very probably going to break.  

 

1 minute ago, beatsing said:

@sqidd wow. Mine isn't broken yet, but a few here have broken parts who might try your suggestion.

Yeah, I don't think that pin can be removed without wrecking some stuff. Off the top of my head I would go after completely removing the pin with a drill or a mill cutter. Depends on how hard it is to jig the figure (or at least part of it) up. If I could jig it up it would be a piece of cake to erase that pin with a mill cutter. Creating a new fastener or even finding one to replace it is easy peasy. The offending broken/breaking clasp/swivel mechanism wouldn't be difficult to make out of aluminum (it would be nice to have something not bling-y though) in the sense that making a CAD file would be cake. It would require a lot of machine operations though (that means more time and time = money). I'd have to get deep into it to see how things really shook out. It's also not that expensive anymore to 3D print aluminum. Especially stuff that small. That would be something I can look into. I want to have that technology in my back pocket at some point anyway.

 

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