Jump to content

Bandai DX YF-30 Chronos


UN Spacy

Recommended Posts

Guys, I have a question relevant to the topic at hand, especially since some of you went the way of FEDEX for your YF-30, and got holed up on Memphis.

I just recently got an Invoice from Fedex for Duties, and Customs Charges. Its not a large amount, but it's unusual in the fact that in all my times using FEDEX for importing stuff from shops, I have never once been sent an invoice for duty/customs charges. The one variable was that past FEDEX packages have come through LA customs or california, whereas Chronos Kun was processed in Memphis. Thats one explanation I can think of, regardless of if its right or wrong.

My question has anyone else who went the fedex memphis route recieved an invoice? or any Fedex Package that came with an invoice like this? I only ask because I'm just lost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you've received the package except Fedex included an invoice? If you already got your stuff, I'd ignore it if you are in the U.S. I believe I've gotten one before but I chose to ignore it and nothing bad happened B))

Edit: Did you sign up for a Fedex account or anything?

Edited by xrentonx
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm...they shouldn't be charging any duty fee as far as I know. If you already got your package delivered to you, I'd ignore the invoice.

I signed up for a Fedex account in the past and they sent me weird $0.00 invoices in the mail. They've stopped recently but I still get my packages delivered just fine. Never looked into what was up with that :ph34r:

Edited by xrentonx
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just recently signed up for a Fedex Account, only if to dispute this. Though I dont know if I should.

For the record, Nippon Yasan's vague description of what was inside the box was what caused it's delay in the first place. Though I don't know what customs could possibly think what "Plastic Model" means.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

*snip*

Yeah, well that was the disastrous initial first attempt where I used the wrong basecoat for the Aclad metalizer top coat - actually it was the correct basecoat (made by Aclad for a black glossy undercoat) - it was using a mineral spirits/turpentine based oil wash that reacted with the enamel basecoat and basically ruined the whole finish because the Aclad coat was so thin that it didn't provide any barrier. I posted some photos of the disaster on that workbench thread a while back and I have subsequently bought a second kit and have painted it to the same stage as the original failure, but I have lost steam/momentum in the project and its just sitting on my bench until I get some time.

Damn, that's too bad. Well, hopefully you'll find some time to work on the Cosmo Zero. I like the design of it and would love to see what magic you will work on it. :)

Hmmm...they shouldn't be charging any duty fee as far as I know. If you already got your package delivered to you, I'd ignore the invoice.

I signed up for a Fedex account in the past and they sent me weird $0.00 invoices in the mail. They've stopped recently but I still get my packages delivered just fine. Never looked into what was up with that :ph34r:

I have been getting the same $0.00 invoices recently and I didn't think about it till now, it was when I signed up for the FedEX account these invoices started showing up.

I just recently signed up for a Fedex Account, only if to dispute this. Though I dont know if I should.

For the record, Nippon Yasan's vague description of what was inside the box was what caused it's delay in the first place. Though I don't know what customs could possibly think what "Plastic Model" means.

We both were in the same situation when it came to our YF-30's, but on my invoice there was no fee. Give them a call and find out what is going on, there shouldn't be a customs/duty fee in the US as far as I know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, I have a question relevant to the topic at hand, especially since some of you went the way of FEDEX for your YF-30, and got holed up on Memphis.

I just recently got an Invoice from Fedex for Duties, and Customs Charges. Its not a large amount, but it's unusual in the fact that in all my times using FEDEX for importing stuff from shops, I have never once been sent an invoice for duty/customs charges. The one variable was that past FEDEX packages have come through LA customs or california, whereas Chronos Kun was processed in Memphis. Thats one explanation I can think of, regardless of if its right or wrong.

My question has anyone else who went the fedex memphis route recieved an invoice? or any Fedex Package that came with an invoice like this? I only ask because I'm just lost.

In the last year or so, FedEx seems to have gotten really weird and annoying with US import fees (I have an account with them as well) and inquiries. I got hit with a surprise bill from a few T-Shirts I had shipped in a HLJ order. It was something crazy like $7 a shirt x4 shirts! And anime Tees aren't cheap to begin with! I got a email from them once wanting to know details about Gundam Markers that were coming in another HLJ shipment. And also I was contacted by phone over my Macross Chronicle magazines.

Now I ship clothes and markers through USPS without any hassle or additional fees. They also haven't said anything else about the Chronicles and I have yet to be charged for any figures/model kits. But I do have a YF-30 sitting in my HLJ warehouse so we'll see.

Oh, and back when I got hit with all the T-Shirt fees, I looked up what could happen if I just didn't pay. I believe they can hold your stuff and not deliver it to the address that owes money until the bill is paid. But I'm not sure if that's just a threat or if they would really go through with it. I choose not to call their bluff though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seeing you THAT happy with the YF-30 is making it harder and harder to resist shipping my Private Warehouse order at HLJ right now! :lol:

Yup. Even the wife likes it. She said it's more cool and tight looking than the other DXs I have. ;)

Even though I have no time... I love this bird so much that I managed to carve out a little bit to get back on my bench...

attachicon.gifDSCN6778.JPG

Now its a little bright because its flat finish against the black, when I clear coat it semi-gloss, it will darken up...

attachicon.gifDSCN6781.JPG

It used a very thinned out med grey, sprayed very lightly to lighten the black and darken the stark "NO STEP" - two for one! and it toned them down nicely.

Did a light wash of different blacks/greys to get the panel line and smudged stick some graphite on the various panels - I didn't want to over do it as this is a fairly new experimental aircraft.

attachicon.gifDSCN6782.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCN6783.JPG

Lastly, the future/tamiya matte finish clear coat dries and I can zoom it around! (I still find the future clear coat to be the most durable so far)

attachicon.gifDSCN6787.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCN6788.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCN6789.JPG

Here is the configuration it will sit in my display with the extra VF-171 armament decked out and ready for swooshing around! (Maybe I have to break my rule and get a second one just to leave in Battroid mode)

attachicon.gifDSCN6791.JPG

attachicon.gifDSCN6792.JPG

I'll hopefully take some more decent shots once I have time to setup a little light tent with some helpful info Saburo gave me!

Did I mention that I love this toy!!! The other Mr. K really did an amazing job on the design, a real great combo of real-world/old school aircraft with the newer Macross Frontier design language - I can't believe I can love a "non-swing-wing" Valkyrie this much.

I envy your mad skills. Great job, wm cheng. Looking forward to the Battroid mode. ^_^

P1090046_zps7f169b15.jpg

Cool pic. We have the same Gerwalk mode. As much as I like the new swivel waist, I still love the traditional Gerwalk mode. ^_^

Looks very nice with the correct colors! Bravo!

I'm enjoying the YF-30 in general, but I must admit, the tail design really drags this one down for me. It's beautifully engineered and painted (backwards text labels notwithstanding.. <_<), but the tails feel like a horrible afterthought to the rest of the design...

I'm actually tempted to make some wider tails that actually integrate into the wing, and don't look so incredibly flimsy. The way they can just attach and detach easily makes me think that they'll lose any existing tension around their pivot points over time, and just fall over.

Me too. I really wish they put some locks into it. :huh:

Showed up as "low stock" @ HLJ then gone in 20 minutes, managed to get one for myself, lol.

Good for you. And congrats. ;) Would love to have another one but my budget didn't agree since a more important birdplane came knocking at my door... :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah. Specifically the Customs duty and Advancement Fee is what they're charging me for.

Doesn't the exuberant fee I paid for shipping and handling of said item cover this? I dunno.

Shipping fee is only shipping fee. The clearing of the item is by an customs broker,.. But either way you should not be charge a customs fee for toys coming into the USA.

It's best you give Fedex a call, they do mess up too.

Also this is from HLJ

"To USA Customers: Please note that there are no taxes, duties or tariffs on the import of hobby products or toys into the United States. You will not pay any extra to buy from us.

If shipped by FedEx, you may be required by Customs to submit a free TSCA form for some ink-related items, however. Please see THIS PAGE for more details. "

CUSTOMERS IN THE USA: Please be aware that the US Customs Office may require a TSCA form or other documentation from you for shipments including ink or some non-toxic paints (such as Gundam Markers). Customs will supply the documents and instructions on how to fill them out, and there is no charge.

So if you have no ink related stuff in your package, you should not have to do anything extra or pay anything extra.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guys, I have a question relevant to the topic at hand, especially since some of you went the way of FEDEX for your YF-30, and got holed up on Memphis.

I just recently got an Invoice from Fedex for Duties, and Customs Charges. Its not a large amount, but it's unusual in the fact that in all my times using FEDEX for importing stuff from shops, I have never once been sent an invoice for duty/customs charges. The one variable was that past FEDEX packages have come through LA customs or california, whereas Chronos Kun was processed in Memphis. Thats one explanation I can think of, regardless of if its right or wrong.

My question has anyone else who went the fedex memphis route recieved an invoice? or any Fedex Package that came with an invoice like this? I only ask because I'm just lost.

That's an oddity from my perspective. I've had plenty of packages go through Memphis customs and I've never been slapped with any sort of additional fee. I do get paper invoices sent to me from FedEx from time to time but I've never been sent an actual bill for something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My YF-30 is still chilling in New York. This makes 8 days now. I think it got food poisoning from the Shorma. Please get well and hurry up already!

US Customs is so weird. If anything I'm expecting goes through New York there is a 50% chance it'll get hung up for at least a few days. If something goes through San Francisco there is a 100% chance it gets hung up for at least a week. If something goes through Chicago it passes through in like two hours. I don't know if they're ever actually checking anything at Chicago Customs. :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

US Customs is so weird. If anything I'm expecting goes through New York there is a 50% chance it'll get hung up for at least a few days. If something goes through San Francisco there is a 100% chance it gets hung up for at least a week. If something goes through Chicago it passes through in like two hours. I don't know if they're ever actually checking anything at Chicago Customs. :lol:

San Fran? Don't you mean LA? I've never had anything going through SF get hung up. Until recently I've never heard of anything being hung up in Memphis either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

San Fran? Don't you mean LA? I've never had anything going through SF get hung up. Until recently I've never heard of anything being hung up in Memphis either.

Yeah, SF. For whatever reason everything I've ever had pass through there has gotten seriously delayed. I'm sure it's all random luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

P1090138_zps295807ec.jpg

Nice shot, TCracker! Love the pose. ^_^

Are people still looking for YF-30? I guess every one already have it by now. I'm considering bringing in Macross product, want to see the market for it, so i'm checking in with the community.

This is interesting. ^_^ Is it going to be still at SRP? And if so, what other Macross products you're thinking? :rolleyes:

YF-30 Question: Did anyone got a copy that has a slightly 'loose' knee joint when in Gerwalk mode on one of the legs? Thanks.

Edited by no3ljm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are people still looking for YF-30? I guess every one already have it by now. I'm considering bringing in Macross product, want to see the market for it, so i'm checking in with the community.

While I already have mine, a US based retailer that could offer guaranteed pre-orders for Bandai's Macross stuff at reasonable prices would be something a welcome addition I'd say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are people still looking for YF-30? I guess every one already have it by now. I'm considering bringing in Macross product, want to see the market for it, so i'm checking in with the community.

Are you US Based? Attempting to bring in anything Bandai bit Big Bad Toy Store right in the ass because of their pre-order shenanigans. Also, if the cost is higher you may not be terribly successful.

YF-30 Question: Did anyone got a copy that has a slightly 'loose' knee joint when in Gerwalk mode on one of the legs? Thanks.

Yes, both of my 30's have loose knee joints in Gerwalk. Both in the left leg. It makes posing difficult sometimes as it doesn't hold well.

Edited by Mommar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the fast reply. I usually use the Tamyia top coat, the low pressure can ones. The result is very good.

I should have a look if my reseller has a grey tint that would be transparent enough!

Just to follow this up, I went to a modelism retailer nearby and he advised me to "drybrush" with an Humbrol emanel grey paint. I just bought it and I will give it a test.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you painted models before? You put quotes around drybrush, so I am assuming you haven't done it before. I would advise not using your YF-30 as your first go around. What effect are you trying to achieve? Drybrushing is not the best for large flat surfaces. Drybrushing deposits paint on raised surfaces. If you do not finesse it enough, and just draw your brush across a flat surface, you will have brush strokes all over. You will want to practice on something else. Buy a cheap fighter jet model to practice on.

Edited by ChaoticYeti
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Yeti says, dry brushing is the opposite of doing an oil wash. Instead of paint going into the panel lines, you are trying to just add paint to the raised surface detail. It's called dry brushing because you have as little paint on the brush as possible.

I would suggest doing an internet search for tips and videos of people doing it. If you are trying to do something similar to wm cheng, I don't think that dry brushing is what you are looking for.

Edited by The Old Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha thank you for the advices Chaotic Yeti, Chyll2 and The Old Man.

The quick answer is that I would like to turn lighter a portion of the wings (the outter black band) just like wm cheng did, but he did using airbrush technique.

I would not test it directly on the YF-30. But as the test seems quiet simple (turning black into a lighter black), I will test different technique on a black surface to see whatever works. I want to try the drybrush as advertized by my reseller, but I will also try to test different levels of diluted paints.

The Umbrol costs only 2,50 EUR, and I bet I can learn some useful techniques ;)

Edited by Xigfrid
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Xigfrid,

I'm afraid your reseller steered you wrong. I would not try "dry brushing" as its not the right technique for the job (trust me, I've done a lot of modeling - check my signature for tips). Also, it doesn't work with diluted paints, it only works with very small amounts of "dry" paint, not wet (diluted) paints. Additionally, you mentioned Humbrol enamels - I think enamels is too "hot" (not as hot as lacquers) to safely brush over the whatever black Bandai uses for its stripes - if you make a mistake, you'd need mineral spirits to remove the "dry brushing" because its a enamel solvent, but it will most likely also damage the black paint Bandai uses underneath. If you insist on dry brushing, try acrylics like Tamiya, if you don't like it or make a mistake, you can wash it off with Windex and it will not react to the black stripes below. In fact that's one of the reasons I still you Tamiya Acrylics for all my airbrushing work, because I make mistakes too. Dry brushing depends a lot on the surface you dry brush over top of and the sheen of the surface as well, if your test piece isn't exactly like what you want to work on, it will turn out differently - it works best on flat/matte surfaces with a bit of texture or "tooth".

Trust me, if you want to lighten the black, airbrush or rattle can (if you've got really good control and masking) is the way to go to preserve the transparency and keep the "NO STEP" - if you don't mind loosing it, then I've seen people who can brush paint it absolutely smooth, but you'd have to re-apply the "NO STEP" as decals over top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would just mask off the lighter black area if you want to clear-coat it with the TS80. I don't know how it holds up to transformation and scratching, so minimizing the area to be clear coated is always going to be a plus. I very carefully clear coat my toys really at a minimum because all clear coats can scratch off - that being said, I've found a Future (floor polish) based clear coat to be the most durable so far - with a glossy finish being more durable than a matte/flat finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...