matic Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Is Ae legit and hows there shipping rates? Edited July 7, 2014 by matic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechapilot77 Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Got my 5th alto......... cuz I don't wanna disturb my current display to put one in tornado parts :0 Now to find a 4th 25G :0 dang, i'd be happy with a 2nd vf-25g...stunning color scheme IMO. did you buy them all up front or find them on auction etc afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sreichma Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 This is it everyone. The F will not see another reissue for a very long time if ever. Is Ae legit and hows there shipping rates? I'm wanting to know this also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sreichma Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Got my 5th alto......... cuz I don't wanna disturb my current display to put one in tornado parts :0 Now to find a 4th 25G :0 I have 2 F's in the box and one on display and 2 G's in the box and one on display. I'm good on those, but If anyone is thinking about grabbing one to keep sealed, I would do it now. I really think this is it for the F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Ok, I've seen a lot of VF-25's in Battroid mode here over the boards and I do have questions on how you guys transform yours. Here's what I've noticed so far: 1. Bandai DX boxes shows the shoulder part (where you replace and attached the missle pods for both Super and Armored Packs) is kinda leveled nicely. 2. Intruction manual shows that part is kinda pointy downwards toward the back of the Battroid. 3. Some photos shows the chest cover barely touches the nosecone. Whereas some photos shows that the two parts touching each other. 4. Some pose their Battroid mode with the crotch area just straight (like the Ver1 look), others pose it with potruding. Sometimes after seeing those photos I'm not so sure what's the correct form. I know it's based on your preferences. But when I played with my 25F and transform it multiple times, I find that doing the shoulder part leveled straight, the chest cover have a big gap from the nosecone, and the head part and chest area part is kinda wobbly. Whereas when I tried to bend the shoulder part more downward towards the back of the Battroid, it mades the figure more solid and somehow more locked in place. The wing backpack is not that loose and the chest cover is secured very well on the nosecone. My question would be is for members who displayed their Battroids with the shoulder part leveled straight, does your valks have like a wobbly upper part when holding it? And for those who bent the shoulders a little downward towards the back, do you get the more solid-locked-torso feeling? Anyways, just trying to find out if I'm transforming my Messiah valk correctly. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pedro2k6 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) Is Ae legit and hows there shipping rates? I'm wanting to know this also.Yes they are legit....but you have to pay right now, they dont have "pay later" option. I live in chile so shipping rate to me are expensive, but AE has the same shipping price to my country then other sites.Regards. Edited July 8, 2014 by Pedro2k6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matic Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Thanks for the feedback guys. Just placed an order and now I am good with the 25F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duymon Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 dang, i'd be happy with a 2nd vf-25g...stunning color scheme IMO. did you buy them all up front or find them on auction etc afterwards. I got two of them at release, and the 3rd I just bought recently via Evilbay for 240 shipped (ouch) Is Ae legit and hows there shipping rates? AE is totally legit. If you don't want to stress out, get EMS. Sure you can get the cheapy option but they use Sagawa logistics and it's a total PITA to track. EMS rates are comparable to HLJ or Mandarake, not uber crazy like NY, CDJ or Plamoya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VF-Zer0S Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 The reissue is up on NY for 16000 yen http://www.nippon-yasan.com/macross/4884-macross-f-dx-chogokin-vf-25f-messiah-valkyrie-saotome-alto-custom-renewal-version-reissue.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
close313 Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) I think that's just the previous reissue that they marked up and put as "sale" since the next reissue is coming again Edited July 8, 2014 by close313 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scyla Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 Ok, I've seen a lot of VF-25's in Battroid mode here over the boards and I do have questions on how you guys transform yours. Here's what I've noticed so far: 1. Bandai DX boxes shows the shoulder part (where you replace and attached the missle pods for both Super and Armored Packs) is kinda leveled nicely. 2. Intruction manual shows that part is kinda pointy downwards toward the back of the Battroid. 3. Some photos shows the chest cover barely touches the nosecone. Whereas some photos shows that the two parts touching each other. 4. Some pose their Battroid mode with the crotch area just straight (like the Ver1 look), others pose it with potruding. Sometimes after seeing those photos I'm not so sure what's the correct form. I know it's based on your preferences. But when I played with my 25F and transform it multiple times, I find that doing the shoulder part leveled straight, the chest cover have a big gap from the nosecone, and the head part and chest area part is kinda wobbly. Whereas when I tried to bend the shoulder part more downward towards the back of the Battroid, it mades the figure more solid and somehow more locked in place. The wing backpack is not that loose and the chest cover is secured very well on the nosecone. My question would be is for members who displayed their Battroids with the shoulder part leveled straight, does your valks have like a wobbly upper part when holding it? And for those who bent the shoulders a little downward towards the back, do you get the more solid-locked-torso feeling? Anyways, just trying to find out if I'm transforming my Messiah valk correctly. Thanks. I display mine with the chest pointing down as much as possible and the shoulder bits slightly angled down the back. I think that they look way to skinny if you fold the shoulder bits down all the way. The VF-25 is already a lanky Valkyries so to me angling them down makes this even worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 I display mine with the chest pointing down as much as possible and the shoulder bits slightly angled down the back. I think that they look way to skinny if you fold the shoulder bits down all the way. The VF-25 is already a lanky Valkyries so to me angling them down makes this even worse. Thanks for the insight, Scyla. That's what I always do, the chest is pointing down and touching the nosecone. As for the shoulder bits, I also fold it down as much as I can so that everything is in lock in place. But somehow when I see members posting their 25's, I always wonder are their units much tighter than mine so they can just leave the shoulder bits resting straight and the chest plate have slight gap from the nosecone. That's why I always think if I'm missing something with the transformation so that I can also leave the shoulder bits somehow straight. But whenever I do that, the core block in the middle tends to move a lot. So I will just go back and bent down more the shoulder bits so that the core block will be lock in place. I'll try to check again tonight and see if I can just leave the shoulder bits straight than being bent down more towards the back. Again, thanks Scyla. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest davidwhangchoi Posted July 8, 2014 Share Posted July 8, 2014 just got my second luca from the post office to go with my second ghost set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moosey Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 It's been sitting in it's box for months, and although it's been on my mind, why is it that I decide it's a good idea to try and panel line my VF-25F at 3am, after half a bottle of scotch? I need help. (I've run out of scotch) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Bleary eyed, half drunk, panel lining of an expensive collectible... you sir are a maverick. looks pretty good, BTW. Quick, somebody help the poor man and pour him another glass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gakken85 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Haha. Congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matic Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Will the vf-25G be reissued for the tornado parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanedas Bike Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Will the vf-25G be reissued for the tornado parts? Great question. Hopefully so, but nothing has been announced. -b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KH355hamdi Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) Ok, I've seen a lot of VF-25's in Battroid mode here over the boards and I do have questions on how you guys transform yours. Here's what I've noticed so far: 1. Bandai DX boxes shows the shoulder part (where you replace and attached the missle pods for both Super and Armored Packs) is kinda leveled nicely. 2. Intruction manual shows that part is kinda pointy downwards toward the back of the Battroid. 3. Some photos shows the chest cover barely touches the nosecone. Whereas some photos shows that the two parts touching each other. 4. Some pose their Battroid mode with the crotch area just straight (like the Ver1 look), others pose it with potruding. Sometimes after seeing those photos I'm not so sure what's the correct form. I know it's based on your preferences. But when I played with my 25F and transform it multiple times, I find that doing the shoulder part leveled straight, the chest cover have a big gap from the nosecone, and the head part and chest area part is kinda wobbly. Whereas when I tried to bend the shoulder part more downward towards the back of the Battroid, it mades the figure more solid and somehow more locked in place. The wing backpack is not that loose and the chest cover is secured very well on the nosecone. My question would be is for members who displayed their Battroids with the shoulder part leveled straight, does your valks have like a wobbly upper part when holding it? And for those who bent the shoulders a little downward towards the back, do you get the more solid-locked-torso feeling? Anyways, just trying to find out if I'm transforming my Messiah valk correctly. Thanks. This is by Anymoon. Toy and lineart comparison. Personally I fold the chest down as much as possible and the crotch thrust forward. The shoulder should be angled upward (maybe difficult if it is loose or with the heavy armor parts). And here is mine. Edited July 9, 2014 by KH355hamdi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gakken85 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I'm glad I missed all the Version 1's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 (edited) Thanks KH355hamdi! I also checked anymoon for comparison. Ok, from what I've observed, we're doing the same thing with the chest area and the crotch areas. It's touching the nosecone underneath, whereas over at anymoon's photo you'll notice that his chest part has somehow has gap from the nosecone. Also, I was about to ask you about the shoulder bits and good thing I refreshed the page and saw the added VF-25F photo. Your photo shows that the shoulder bits is leveled straight, whereas anymoon's is bent more downward towards the back. And that's what I'm doing to make the torso lock somehow and sturdy. My question next is since your shoulder bits is leveled, do you get that wobbly/shaky torso when you hold your 25's? And the back wing part is not lock somehow? Thanks! Edited July 9, 2014 by no3ljm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I never seem to be able to get the nosecone to sit low enough like in the photos above. I always have a little gap. I always wondered how exactly those shoulder bits should sit as well. Thanks for asking that question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KH355hamdi Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 Ah yes the back part should be bent more backward to bring the front and back closer together. Though in the magazine is shows the shoulder bit angle forward instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 You're welcome Sandman. It's just that I see a lot of photos over the forums and some review site and most of them shows the shoulder bits part is kinda leveled straight. But whenever I try to follow the manual, photos shows it's bended more towards the back. Not sure if it's correct or not but somehow some online shops promo pics shows the level straight shoulder bits too. I know there's no correct answer to this but just want to know like how to keep the shoulder bits leveled straight yet somehow keep the torso part sturdy and not wobbly. Because I don't get that sturdy-feeling whenever I use the straight shoulder bits. Ah yes the back part should be bent more backward to bring the front and back closer together. Though in the magazine is shows the shoulder bit angle forward instead. *snip So do you get that wobbly/not-so-sturdy feeling on the back part and torso since your shoulder bits is leveled straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Man Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I too find that having the shoulders sloping down at the back makes the neck/collar lock properly, and the back piece sit properly over the cockpit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 From what I remember, I can't somehow lift up the back wing part when the chest part is closed to the nosecone and the shoulder bits is bend more towards the back. And thinking that the shoulder bits on your photo is leveled straight, you can easily lift up the back wing part, correct? And the torso is somehow wobbly/shaking esp the cockpit block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KH355hamdi Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 You're welcome Sandman. It's just that I see a lot of photos over the forums and some review site and most of them shows the shoulder bits part is kinda leveled straight. But whenever I try to follow the manual, photos shows it's bended more towards the back. Not sure if it's correct or not but somehow some online shops promo pics shows the level straight shoulder bits too. I know there's no correct answer to this but just want to know like how to keep the shoulder bits leveled straight yet somehow keep the torso part sturdy and not wobbly. Because I don't get that sturdy-feeling whenever I use the straight shoulder bits. So do you get that wobbly/not-so-sturdy feeling on the back part and torso since your shoulder bits is leveled straight? Mine is pretty tight and does not wobble with the shoulder level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I too find that having the shoulders sloping down at the back makes the neck/collar lock properly, and the back piece sit properly over the cockpit. I'm doing the same thing. So it makes sense that we can't do the level-straight shoulder bits without making the torso part a little wobbly, correct? Mine is pretty tight and does not wobble with the shoulder level. Really? Guess, I'm doing something wrong with that area since mine is kinda wobbly when the shoulder bits is leveled straight. Hehehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Old Man Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I agree, if I don't have them sloped down it doesn't feel right. Not saying anyone else is wrong though, it's just how I interpreted the instructions and how it feels especially around the funny neck area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 I agree, if I don't have them sloped down it doesn't feel right. Not saying anyone else is wrong though, it's just how I interpreted the instructions and how it feels especially around the funny neck area. Ok. Thanks Old Man. But I still want somehow that straight shoulder bits thing look but don't want my valk's torso wobbly. Hehehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scyla Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 On all my Frontier toys the hinges that hold the chest plate, shoulder blocks and backpack together are the tightest joints on the Messiahs. They hold almost all the poses I can imagine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charger69 Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 AE says VF-25F is in stock! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duymon Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 Wow AE is fast O_O they already shipped my Alto via EMS. Honestly I don't mind paying up front so I will use AE as much as I can in the future. My YF-25 and VF-25F purchases could not be any smoother :0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mog_kupo Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I just got my payment request from Amiami, I choosed SAL registered so it will take a while to arrive, it will be my first duplicate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kanedas Bike Posted July 11, 2014 Share Posted July 11, 2014 I just got my payment request from Amiami, I choosed SAL registered so it will take a while to arrive, it will be my first duplicate Odd, I received my payment request from AmiAmi for the re-re-issue of the 25F on Friday. Paid on Sunday and outside of the payment confirmation I've heard nothing else. -b. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.