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DX VF-25 Renewal Series (Part III)


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My canopy is fine

but regarding the wing, you should try to rotate the legs inward in bit it will push the wing section a bit down

if it works you can glue a pre-cut piece of residual photoetch on the tab in the wing section (it would be invisible)

BUT FIRST : you should check if they did glue correctly the plates that hold the wings !

Could you expand on that? Rotate which part of the leg inwards---topside or bottom? And what do you mean by the plates being glued?

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I had fun transforming mine. Fairly simple and straight forward. No issues with the cockpit, or leg bars.

Transformation gallery:

http://imgur.com/a/2nylf

My only complaint or worry is that the hinge for the back wing section feels and sounds way too tight. Just it squeals a bit when i pull it back instead of having a smooth movement.

1JfrJsFh.jpg

Other than that it looks really nice. No paint issues that I can tell. Hands are nice and tight. The diecast bits look really pretty. The instructions were very well done, though I wish they'd have photographed a painted version. Sometimes that's helpful for reference. It's not nearly as floppy as the VF-171 and I love the "waist" swivel.

Looking forward to taking some more stylized photos.

I wish I'd saved a bit more money on it.. but it was worth buying for sure.

Edited by Gakken85
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Quick inspection today and mine looks good. Had to rejigger the front landing gear bay doors a little but she's a beauty. Will transform tomorrow to fully inspect.

Edited by xrentonx
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Guest davidwhangchoi

Hello David

if you look closely at the way the wings lock into the leg you will see how the mechanism works

please find below some pics that explain the ideas :

vf-25fwingissue.png

That's pretty neat notes and arrows you made. i feel like i'm taking notes in lecture hall w/ a 25F as an exhibit

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"No paint issues that I can tell"

they will come later after some transformations :p

Bandai paints are really bad <_<

Maybe I could put some Future on it before I transform it, as a protective layer. I did so on my -27.

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So getting back to what I said earlier about the torso on the VF-25F not coming together as well as on the RVF-25. I decided to take both apart to see what the trouble was and I found something interesting. the grey neck plates are different between each mold. I'm not sure why they're different but the RVF-25 Design makes the plate more stable when extended for battroid mode, so I decided to do a quick mod to the VF-25F's plate to get the same effect. I'll post pics a little later.

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Ok, got my Alto from HLJ today. Only checked a few little things, won't transform until tomorrow or even the next day, but did check opening gear/canopy etc, and transformed just enough to put the gunpod on. A few little niggles/quirks/questions:

1. The canopy seems to securely click closed, but the main section is a little higher than the windscreen. Inherent, common, fixable?

2. Left side seems overall more secure/flush in fighter mode---notably how the left wingroot lies alongside the leg, and how "high" the leg is in fighter mode. If the entire fighter was as flush/tight as the left side, it'd look amazing--but the right side, the leg seems to "sag" just a little bit, making a bit of a gap/seam all around it. (and the right leg panel which you open for moving the ventral fin seems to never quite close)

Overall, my -27 seems to be more flush/secure in fighter mode---when it's together, everything goes EXACTLY into a certain spot. Despite being a later design/mold, the -25 renewal seems to have fewer pegs/tabs/clicks, relying more on "hinge friction" to hold it together---everything seems to stay in place, but only about half of it really seems to go in as tight/flush/close as it possibly can.

David, could you take a couple pics illustrating the two points? I'm curious if this is an issue with the re-release of the F and not the original renewal or if it's just something I didn't spot on the first release.

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so yeah, for some reason these parts are different: RVF-25 is on the left, VF-25F is on the right

post-4286-0-44089400-1375659331_thumb.jpg

The big difference is the little lugs, the RVF-25 are cam shaped so they prevent the plate from collapsing down where as the VF-25F's round ones let it collapse. Also, for some reason the back of the neck has a little tab that doesn't serve any real purpose.

so I went ahead, drilled tiny holes in the front of the lugs on the VF-25F and glued in short lengths of paper clip wire to stop the part from rotating.

post-4286-0-55858800-1375659335_thumb.jpg

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so yeah, for some reason these parts are different: RVF-25 is on the left, VF-25F is on the right

attachicon.gifIMG_2758.jpg

The big difference is the little lugs, the RVF-25 are cam shaped so they prevent the plate from collapsing down where as the VF-25F's round ones let it collapse. Also, for some reason the back of the neck has a little tab that doesn't serve any real purpose.

so I went ahead, drilled tiny holes in the front of the lugs on the VF-25F and glued in short lengths of paper clip wire to stop the part from rotating.

attachicon.gifIMG_2759.jpg

Yeah, thanks, dude! As usual, very interesting posts with clear pics of the inner workings B))

I transformed mine about an hour ago and she's perfect! I got no complaints.

Edited by xrentonx
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wow, thanks for taking apart your valk and showing us the neck pieces, does the mod fit well?

Works great so far. the track the part sits in is identical between the two molds, and the RVF-25 neck fits just fine in the VF-25F. I just drilled the holes and cut the wire down so the tip would be right where the extension on the RVF-25 neck would be.

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Guest davidwhangchoi

Works great so far. the track the part sits in is identical between the two molds, and the RVF-25 neck fits just fine in the VF-25F. I just drilled the holes and cut the wire down so the tip would be right where the extension on the RVF-25 neck would be.

was about to follow up if you put the RVF 25 neck piece in the 25F and modded the 25F piece and chucked it in the RVF (giving the 25F priority) but that answers my question...

genius creative mod :)

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was about to follow up if you put the RVF 25 neck piece in the 25F and modded the 25F piece and chucked it in the RVF (giving the 25F priority) but that answers my question...

genius creative mod :)

I thought about that but the RVF-25's grey plastic is a tiny bit darker than the grey plastic used on the 25F.

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I've got a question for everbody----for fighter mode, for the best fit of the hands in the shield---do you bunch them up into fists to shorten them, or flatten them out as much as possible to try to "tuck" them in under the flap?

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I've got a question for everbody----for fighter mode, for the best fit of the hands in the shield---do you bunch them up into fists to shorten them, or flatten them out as much as possible to try to "tuck" them in under the flap?

I've done it both ways and either way fits just fine in the shield. That said, I tend to just keep the fingers extended and the thumbs positioned so that they're parallel to and touching each other.

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Hmmn. Pretty sure mine came with the hands balled up into fists. It took some effort to free them up to open the fingers, I briefly thought the non-articulated hands had been installed.

PS---got it to GERWALK for the first time. Most of the shoulder joints are pretty loose (both articulation ones and transformation ones). :p Do you just pry/pop off the shoulder armor like a v2 VF-1, to access the screw for the shoulder/bicep joint?

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I've always balled them up into fists myself. They usually come that way out of the box too (at least they do for me).

Edited by xrentonx
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Hey, what's a fair price for renewal Armored parts? There's a set on Mandarake for 18,000 yen which is more than what I payed for the base VF-25F plus shipping.

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