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DX VF-25 Renewal Series (Part III)

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I'm only referring to fighter mode, especially with super parts on.  I didn't even fidget with Battroid.

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5 hours ago, Sandman said:

Took mine out recently too and noticed the left side shoulder joint(?) is so loose that the arm flops back anytime I move the battroid. Anyone know a way to fix it? I can't see any obvious screws to tighten.

The shoulder got loose on one of my Alto 25's but I was able to tighten it using screws on that particular joint/connection.

But even then it has still loosened again over time. 

5 hours ago, Mommar said:

I'm only referring to fighter mode, especially with super parts on.  I didn't even fidget with Battroid.

Ah, yeah. The Super Parts on the VF-25 aren't very secure at all, even without comparing it to the 31 which has amazing design and implementation for the corresponding Super Parts.

-b.

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Hei i'am going to visit my friend in Singapore soon. do you know any local store that sell Macross DX chogokin? i'm looking for RVF-25 

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44 minutes ago, gozilham said:

Hei i'am going to visit my friend in Singapore soon. do you know any local store that sell Macross DX chogokin? i'm looking for RVF-25 

Whatever Macross toys sold in Singapore toy stores is overpriced. Bit of a waste of time IMHO. 

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15 hours ago, gozilham said:

Hei i'am going to visit my friend in Singapore soon. do you know any local store that sell Macross DX chogokin? i'm looking for RVF-25 

What barurutor said is absolutely true. DX Chogokin prices here are crazy high here, which is why most of us simply import it (assuming we get through the mad rush).

That being said, seeing as you're visiting Singapore, and I have a spare RVF-25 with Super Parts to let go (it's been boxed up long ago, but I just never got around to selling it), do let me know if you're interested, and we could work something out.

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Hey guys...  Might be a little late here.. 

But how do you clear coat a vf???? 

Will it be stil transfirmable?? 

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4 hours ago, RealJayDee said:

Hey guys...  Might be a little late here.. 

But how do you clear coat a vf???? 

Will it be stil transfirmable?? 

Yes. It will still be transformable as most members here who applied topcoat on it. Just transform it carefully.

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As long as you don't lay it on super thick, you should be fine to still transform it. I don't know if those who've actually clear-coated their Valks have any specific tips, but some general tips:

- Don't use on clear plastic. Whether you're using a flat, gloss, whatever finish, they will actually cause clear plastic to fog up. I and others have used clear floor polish on canopies and it works really well.

- If you can, disassemble the toy somewhat to get better coverage.

- Figure out which areas don't need top coating and mask them off. I'm thinking of Gerwalk joints specifically, since they usually don't have any important surface details (and recede into the legs anyway), and any top coat will only gunk up the joints making them stiffer (though that may be a good thing, depending).

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I would add that I highly don't recommend Tamiya TS Spray on first attempts, laying a thick lacquer WILL react and dissolve Arcadia and Bandai original paint. Choose a good Acrylic spray instead and stay safe by laying fine layers from at least 40cm away from the model at approx 20°C room temperature. (stay away from the plastic model Revell clear sprays!)

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If you want a good topcoat spray that won't damage paint or decals, you can use Gunze Sangyo water-based topcoat. Make sure it's the blue can, as the grey ones are lacquer-based and will eat paint and decals if you're not careful with it.

s-l300.jpg.6f8711c9d3d7ecd032d5093b366db743.jpg

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14 minutes ago, Lolicon said:

If you want a good topcoat spray that won't damage paint or decals, you can use Gunze Sangyo water-based topcoat. Make sure it's the blue can, as the grey ones are lacquer-based and will eat paint and decals if you're not careful with it.

s-l300.jpg.6f8711c9d3d7ecd032d5093b366db743.jpg

This is the safest topcoat that you can use. Just be careful on not applying it too thick too quickly. Humidity is your only enemy on using this.

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This is good to know. Also, IF I were to airbrush topcoat on the Valk that I did, what's the best one to use? I was thinking of using Micro Flat/Satin/Gloss since I already used the Micro Set and Sol on my Valks. Is that a good choice just to keep it consistent as brand wise and mixture wise? Or just use Future and mix it with Matte finish?

 

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8 hours ago, Lolicon said:

If you want a good topcoat spray that won't damage paint or decals, you can use Gunze Sangyo water-based topcoat. Make sure it's the blue can, as the grey ones are lacquer-based and will eat paint and decals if you're not careful with it.

s-l300.jpg.6f8711c9d3d7ecd032d5093b366db743.jpg

All my years in gunpla and I've never paid attention to this very prominent item. I'm gonna have to give this thing a look-see.

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On 3/10/2018 at 5:50 AM, no3Ljm said:

This is good to know. Also, IF I were to airbrush topcoat on the Valk that I did, what's the best one to use? I was thinking of using Micro Flat/Satin/Gloss since I already used the Micro Set and Sol on my Valks. Is that a good choice just to keep it consistent as brand wise and mixture wise? Or just use Future and mix it with Matte finish?

 

I would advise against mixing. Future formula has changed and it can behave differently. Even if it is the same, mixing the correct amount of Matte medium is hard. Any ready to AB clear coat should work. Just do a practice on common object.

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8 hours ago, chyll2 said:

I would advise against mixing. Future formula has changed and it can behave differently. Even if it is the same, mixing the correct amount of Matte medium is hard. Any ready to AB clear coat should work. Just do a practice on common object.

Got it. Thanks chyll2! ;)

Ok. So if I were to topcoat with gloss so I can add panel lines before finishing it with matte or satin in the end, is using Future the best 'gloss' coat to use over a figure with decals applied with Micro Sol/Set rather than using the same brand (Microscale) instead of Future? The reason for my question is that, I haven't tried Future yet and I'm not so sure if it's going to have any reactions to Micro Sol/Set applied decals. Thanks.

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7 minutes ago, eyesonme78 said:

Guys, need some help. Anyone knows where to get replacement parts for the left hip cover ?

From what I remember if that's a Renewal release, the hip armor that came with the Super Parts option set can be separated from the Super Pack part.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, no3Ljm said:

From what I remember if that's a Renewal release, the hip armor that came with the Super Parts option set can be separated from the Super Pack part.

It can, it just has a peg or hole or something IIRC, to allow the super part to attach. Someone might have a spare if they're using it with super parts only.

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30 minutes ago, eyesonme78 said:

Guys, need some help. Anyone knows where to get replacement parts for the left hip cover ?

*snip*

Did you loose it or did it break?

I can't tell if it is missing on the other side as well. Could it be that the part was removed to attach the Super/Armor Parts hip armor and the original piece is in the box of the toy or the armor?

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9 minutes ago, Sanity is Optional said:

It can, it just has a peg or hole or something IIRC, to allow the super part to attach. Someone might have a spare if they're using it with super parts only.

Yes, it has a hole. I only suggested it for a quick fix. So that you don't need to take it out the part if you want to put back the Super Pack hip armor.

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thanks man, thik it be good except I need a super parts set now... I originally got the tornado set for it.

not probably have to get a super as well.

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Hey!! 

Thanks for the tips about clear coat!!  Ill try to find the products and give it a shot on spare pieces and see which works best. 

 

Another question: during use of super / armored parts, have the intake covers damaged the paint of the vf??? 

One of my ozma's armor intake covers is so tight that it literally wiped some of the grey paint. 

Quite shocked since its supposed to "cover the paint" not scratch it. 

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