abbadon Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I haven't had a chance to closely examine the 25S reissue, ever since I fixed mine I just left it on the shelf. What is the difference you noticed about the wing hinge? The wing hinge is pretty tight, not worried about that yet. It's the leg joints I'm worried about. The hinge revised is the one on the head that slides. I don't own the first release, so I only compared it with the 25F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 My nose is a bit crooked to one side even when I push it in all the way, is there a fix for that? I can't really see why, but one side is nice and tight and the other side has a gap that I can't close up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbadon Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) My nose is a bit crooked to one side even when I push it in all the way, is there a fix for that? I can't really see why, but one side is nice and tight and the other side has a gap that I can't close up. Same here. I haven't found a solution yet. Edited December 24, 2014 by abbadon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saburo Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) The wing hinge is pretty tight, not worried about that yet. It's the leg joints I'm worried about. The hinge revised is the one on the head that slides. I don't own the first release, so I only compared it with the 25F. Thanks abbadon! My nose is a bit crooked to one side even when I push it in all the way, is there a fix for that? I can't really see why, but one side is nice and tight and the other side has a gap that I can't close up. I have noticed that on my Valks too, its pretty minor but some are a bit more pronounced on some of them. Edited December 24, 2014 by Saburo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyg Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I think the reason for that gap has something to do with the hinge that the nose folds over on. I think there's a little bit of play from side to side. It's possible that attempting to shift it to one side or the other will close this gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scyla Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 ahhh thanks for clearing that up. Guess that means the one on my Ozma became a little loose perhaps, because I've honestly never noticed this swivel before. It is easy to overlook because the stand Bandai included locks the joint in the default location. So you can't even utilize it most of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brand-X Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I just wish I could have my Ozma with armour parts in Battroid mode, the hips won't lock in place for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenius Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Don't they give you a spacer just in case that happens? Or you could use the stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sildani Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Well, if you want one... http://www.nippon-yasan.com/product.php?id_product=8318 19,000 yen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brand-X Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Don't they give you a spacer just in case that happens? Or you could use the stand. Yeah it's not the assembly that pushes the crotch forward, but the two little metal tabs that slot into it, they won't stay locked in unfortunately. Oh well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xigfrid Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Yeah it's not the assembly that pushes the crotch forward, but the two little metal tabs that slot into it, they won't stay locked in unfortunately. Oh well. As jenius said, there is an additional spacer only for that matter. It is very rare that the metal tabs stay locked with the armor parts on without the spacer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KH355hamdi Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 As jenius said, there is an additional spacer only for that matter. It is very rare that the metal tabs stay locked with the armor parts on without the spacer. The hip bracket cradle the piece together so that they don't come apart. The one in the photo is bracket not for mounting on the stand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brand-X Posted December 25, 2014 Share Posted December 25, 2014 Oh thanks, I didn't even know that. Much appreciated guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trojan_gambit Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Has any yellowish problem been reported on Alto's white plastic ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Has any yellowish problem been reported on Alto's white plastic ? I am displaying mine in our living room which can be lit naturally by sunlight via window it is not much but sunglight is still there. No yellowing yet but imo, it is just a matter of time at which by the time it did (maybe years from now), I have legit reason to customize it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scream Man Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Mine are all still white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 *snip*@no3ljm, are you still planning to paint the 25S in a red and black scheme? Hey Saburo, sorry for the late reply. Been out of the internet last 2.5 weeks. To answer your question, I'm still looking for a quick and safe way to cover the yellow paints on the Ozma. I'm thinking of using the Plasti Dip red spray. But I need to figure out how to mask everything before I spray on top of it. Not sure if brush method will work on the Plasti Dip. Any suggestions, everyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacrossJunkie Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Hey Saburo, sorry for the late reply. Been out of the internet last 2.5 weeks. To answer your question, I'm still looking for a quick and safe way to cover the yellow paints on the Ozma. I'm thinking of using the Plasti Dip red spray. But I need to figure out how to mask everything before I spray on top of it. Not sure if brush method will work on the Plasti Dip. Any suggestions, everyone? I had to look up what this Plasti Dip was. Is there any particular reason you want to use plasti dip instead of paint made for models? It looks like it's a rubberized spray on coating that you can peel off. Probably would be pretty thick as well and seems like it could peel off along with the masking when you remove the masking. As for the masking itself, all you would really need is Tamiya masking tape, an x-acto knife, and maybe some liquid masking film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuGS21 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Finally the boys are complete! Nothing like getting a fresh-outta-box feeling when you open a package. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abbadon Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no3Ljm Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I had to look up what this Plasti Dip was. Is there any particular reason you want to use plasti dip instead of paint made for models? It looks like it's a rubberized spray on coating that you can peel off. Probably would be pretty thick as well and seems like it could peel off along with the masking when you remove the masking. As for the masking itself, all you would really need is Tamiya masking tape, an x-acto knife, and maybe some liquid masking film. Hey MacrossJunkie. Reason why I'm thinking of using this one is because I don't have time to fully customize and paint/repaint the valk itself. And I guess, it's the quickest way and to preserve the original color underneath. In case I decided to expand my collection in the future and add the Yellow and Black stipe schemes to my Red and Black scheme. I've been watching videos via YouTube about the Plasti Dip and masking is not a problem though they've been applying it to the car and not a 'miniature' version of a plane. So removing the masking from the car looks easy. That's why I mentioned I need to study first on how to mask the toy. For sure a lot of Tamiya tapes will be involve here. It's also the thickness I worry about and the moving parts of the valk. Though from what I notice it's the wing that I need to study and some parts of the nose cone area. Guess, I really need to test this first before applying it on the valk. Finally the boys are complete! *snip* Nothing like getting a fresh-outta-box feeling when you open a package. Congrats on our Ozma Messiah! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miro79 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 So this happend today.. The hinge, connecting the hip with the upper body, broke... The valk has been in storage for months, i just took it out to transform it after a long time. im really sad right now. are there any replacement parts for this? shapeways maybe?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaoticYeti Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) I believe this happened to someone else recently. If a replacement isn't already available, I will model something and put it up on shapeways. Might not be till tomorrow. Edit: Or now, I guess. https://www.shapeways.com/model/3018985/v2-messiah-cracked-hips-replacement.html?li=aeTabs There is a tiny cosmetic detail that I didn't add. For a piece so small, I didn't want to compromise its solidity. I hope it works. I measured the piece on my v2 VF-25F with a digital caliper. I did not test fit. Mine is not broken, and I want to keep it that way. Let me know if it fits. If it doesn't, it wont be a big deal to revise. Took me 5-10 minutes for this one between walking to my computer to uploading. Test print on my FDM printer. Looks like it should work. Edited January 10, 2015 by ChaoticYeti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sildani Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Wow. That's really nice of you, Yeti. Hope it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gakken85 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 One big reason I sold my frontiers and stopped buying them... they are really cheap haha. I know Yamato had QA issues over the years but once they perfected it, it's stayed done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenius Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 We have a lot of DX renewal VF-25 toys out there... I'd say they have a pretty good track record although certainly not without some faults. Amazing to see how quickly a member was able to help solve that though (hopefully). The future is here! 3D Printing is awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mommar Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Jenius is right, barring the 171CF fiasco there has never been any widespread issues and a few defects are bound to happen (unfortunately.) Pretty cool Yeti hooked him up so fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saburo Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 That is awesome CY for creating that so quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miro79 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Wow!! Thank you so much Yeti! I will try it out and let you know if it worked. now i will have to find out how to remove the pins. Edited January 10, 2015 by miro79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaoticYeti Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 When you figure the pins out make sure to test fit them with the replacement piece before assembly. It may help to drill the holes to size. I think the printed surface topology on a piece this small may effect fitment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miro79 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 I will let you know how it worked out. Just ordered your replacement part. Thanks again for your help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Miro79, when you remove the broken part, don't throw it away; as long as it has not completely disintegrated and the crumbled pieces have not been lost, it can be repaired with plastic weld (plastic cement) containing Dichloromethane (Methylene Chloride). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miro79 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) I will do that mechaninac, thx for the tip. Just noticed that maybe more than just this small part has cracked. The part holding the pin at the upper body also has a small crack. I will see how bad it is, when i am able to take everything apart. Edited January 10, 2015 by miro79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChaoticYeti Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) It looks like the upper body part needs to be unpinned before you can get to the screws. Let me know what you figure out. Edited January 10, 2015 by ChaoticYeti Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scream Man Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 Got my 25S renewal from NY, and she's great. Nice n tight, no scratches, a great looking machine! Now C'Mon Bandai, re-release the armour... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.