Yamato 1/60 VF-1 (VE-1): what kind of glue is most appropriate?

[regult]

I've had a little accident with my VE-1, one of the tabs for the arm attachments cracked while I was detaching it. It's not the big radar thing but the smaller one. Luckily it still stays attached in fighter mode due to friction, but will not hold itself in other modes.

I meant to glue it back together with superglue (shock resistant type) but it didn't work at all.

I am wondering if Tamiya's modeling cement may work since it actually melts the plastic and binds them together into one piece.

Problem is I am not sure it will work on Yamato's plastic (what type of plastic is it?). Also, since it's a clip that needs to have some flexibility in order to attach/detach, I wonder if gluing will be a solution at all or I will have to find a replacement.

I know many of you have built 1/60 kits and probably have tested different types of glue on it, thanks in advance for your expert advice.

Edited December 29, 2011 by regult

[MechTech]

Hey Regult, you've probably got parts made out of ABS. The Tamiya cement MIGHT work on it, but you'll need a lot to to get it to work right. ABS needs a stronger solvent. That part is also under a lot of stress in the area it broke so it'll probably break again anyhow. If you do glue it, you should add some styrene to one side to reinforce it and do some touch up painting if needed. Then there's plan "B", a new part. Sorry about your breakage. - MT

[alchemo]

even if you can glue it back it will not stand the stress and hold the part unless some form of re-enforcement is applied. The part itself is too thin for inserting metal pin.

One possible way is to add a layer of thin metal foil on the outside of the U shape part (best if you can take the U shape part out ) after sanding it down a bit (to increase friction and to maintain the same thickness after fixing) metal used should be one that you can cut bend to the desired shape but also have a bit of hardness.

I suppose some flexible plastic may also do, like those transparent sheets that was used in packaging but they might be too thick if you want the right toughness.

[THOR]

That's a tough piece to fix because there is little bonding area between the two broken pieces and the whole unit is subject to multiple forces of tension and bending stresses. I would superglue or epoxy the two pieces together and then i would back up the whole side with a new sheet of plastic to stiffen that whole side. (if it didn't affect the function/design)

Cool Chem makes some great stuff...basically a hybrid super glue and epoxy.

Tech Bond is similar.

I could print out a whole new piece for you. Send exact dimensions and we can make it out of nylon or even metal.

-THOR

Edited January 3, 2012 by THOR

[bry]

If you have not yet fixed this, I have a suggestion: Assuming the part is ABS plastic (I have not confirmed this) try coating the broken edges in a dab of acetone and then hold them together to set.

If the part is ABS, this will let you set the part permanently without using any glue at all; the edges will simply bond together and re-form as a single piece.

ABS plastic will completely dissolve if left in a puddle of acetone so use it very sparingly.

Edited January 14, 2012 by bry

[Mark Warlock]

I've run into this type of problem before. I tried using several different types of glue but couldn't get it to work. Finally I had to use a bit of a drastic method of repair. I put the parts together and held them in place with a pair of spring loaded tweezers.

[be sure to have a good magnifying glass handy.]

Next get a straight pin, small light candle, and a pair of small needle nose pliers. Hold the pin with the needle nose and heat up the dull end of the pin with the light candle. Once the candle is nice and hot gently run it across the break on one side. You want the plastic to melt, but not so much that it distorts the whole piece. The idea is to get both sides of the break to melt back together. Once you get material from both sides of the break on one side melted together let it cool down. Once it has cooled down a few minutes start on the other side. IF you have additional plastic available, maybe saved sprues of the same color, you can shave off some plastic and add it to the break area. This can be melted into the area. If you do this add more material then the surrounding area. This way you can be sure the part is sufficiently reinforced. After it has cooled you can use a sanding stick and stand the material down to match the surrounding area. Use very light pressure and let the sanding stick do the work. This way you help to avoid damaging the lower areas. Once you get the material sanded to evenly you can use a polishing stick to blend the area.

If you don't have a new part available, or don't have the ability to produce a new part then this method can help. It does take patience and practice. Once you master it though it can offer a strong repair and the repair can sometimes be practically invisible.

Hope this helps.

[regult]

acetone? as in nail polish remover??

Thanks everybody for the tips, I have not attempted a second fix, so after the initial attempt with (slow/anti-shock) superglue, I've left it alone in fighter mode and the armor stays in place. I think I will try a thin plastic or metal reinforcement, as already pointed out inserting anything inside such think sheet of plastic is completely unrealistic.

[bry]

Yep, nail polish remover. It works like superglue on ABS, and leaves no residue. I don't know if the valk uses ABS, but worth a try anyway. I use acetone as a glue and smoothing agent for 3D prints made from ABS. Also works to repair car bumpers (many are ABS plastic). Careful with the fumes, acetone is pretty nasty stuff.