mechaninac Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Is that grey just from dye or did you paint over it as well? It looks too uniform to be a dye job... looks like primer grey to me. If so, I wonder how well it holds up to transformation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyg Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) took the engine intakes from a donor valkyrie since it have two parts that requires masking and another painting. need tip on how to line up the fuselage cleanly without glue. I alredy sanded down the pegs and it just wont line up (I cant get where the resistance is coming) Chyll, that seam comes from the spring action of the landing gear, I believe. The toys have that as well and to the best of my knowledge, no glue is used here on "the real thing" right out of the box. Good luck completely getting rid of it as I believe it's a design feature.To test this, fold up the front gear and the seam should lesson or disappear. Edited December 31, 2014 by mickyg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) Is that grey just from dye or did you paint over it as well? it is already painted since the dye was not uniform and blotchy. Painted it using AS-11 Medium Sea Gray edit: yeah, it looks like a primed model as well Chyll, that seam comes from the spring action of the landing gear, I believe. The toys have that as well and to the best of my knowledge, no glue is used here on "the real thing" right out of the box. Good luck completely getting rid of it as I believe it's a design feature. To test this, fold up the front gear and the seam should lesson or disappear. I might try to check the landing gear area again. The seam or gap is there even when the landing gear is folded up. Edited December 31, 2014 by chyll2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 I got an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for Christmas, so I decided I'd try and tackle my Nirvash typeZero Spec2. This should be fun. The dry-fit begins: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 Let us know how what you think of the Iwata...I've been eying one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mechaninac Posted December 31, 2014 Share Posted December 31, 2014 (edited) it is already painted since the dye was not uniform and blotchy. Painted it using AS-11 Medium Sea Gray edit: yeah, it looks like a primed model as well Once you add stripes and other colored -- or even different grey(s) -- details, panel line it, and put on the decals and/or stickers, that primed look will be displaced by a low-vis, "realistic" military-like appearance. Edited December 31, 2014 by mechaninac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Let us know how what you think of the Iwata...I've been eying one. Buy it. Definitely buy it. I'm in love with this brush. It paints so well, and it's so easy to clean! Here's what I got done on the Nirvash today: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyg Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Very nice! I love my iwata. Totally agree about ease of cleaning. Great results from a very well made tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Can you post a pic of ur airbrush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 After some major surgery I could not lift anything for a month (which meant waiting to lift and fix the Daedalus gearbox). So I worked on the Bugeye Recon kit. More in another thread when complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 Can you post a pic of ur airbrush? Here you go: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 1, 2015 Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) Freakin gorgeous man. How did you decide which Eclipse to get? Edited January 1, 2015 by derex3592 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 Well, I prefer gravity-feed brushes, and the bigger the cup, the better. Plus, the HP-CS is very well-reviewed. And what a beauty this brush is. The craftsmanship is apparent in every aspect. I'm in love. In other news, I got a lot done on the Nirvash. I'm gonna clear coat it with Future tomorrow. Mind my shoddy painting skills. I lack patience, practice, and a working left hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I've never had a gravity fed airbrush, but that's the way I wanna go next, and I agree, the bigger the paint cup the better. Question...does the cup have a lid that keeps the paint IN the cup? That's been my biggest problem when using my older brushes when I have to use the little metal cup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 here is the current status now of my low viz Strike VF-1A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valhary Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I love the strike parts in grey looks much better than green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xigfrid Posted January 2, 2015 Share Posted January 2, 2015 I really like the low vis schems, thx for sharing your tools. I am really debating if I need an airbrush for next Christmas gifts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 I've never had a gravity fed airbrush, but that's the way I wanna go next, and I agree, the bigger the paint cup the better. Question...does the cup have a lid that keeps the paint IN the cup? That's been my biggest problem when using my older brushes when I have to use the little metal cup. Yeah, the cup has a lid. Most gravity-feed brushes have one. Historically, I haven't been keen to using the cap, because my old brush had to run at a high enough pressure that it'd waste a ton of paint and I'd be refilling the cup really often, and the lid just would not come off sometimes. But this Iwata sprays evenly, even at 8psi, so I'm using a lot less paint, and the cap is easy to remove. I just cannot praise this brush enough, I really really love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
505thAirborne Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 here is the current status now of my low viz Strike VF-1A Now I want to buy a No Painting VF-1 kit, Looks amazing so far, looking forward to the finished product! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Okay, this one is on the way to completion! I will not stop until it is DUN. It will not see the inside of a box until it is finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 No pictures yet, but currently experimenting with DIY decals. I am experimenting using a photocopier (from the office) since I only want a black or gray VF-1J Stripes (I dont know how to do the imaging using PC). Gray looks really bad from test copies the dots are really visible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) No pictures yet, but currently experimenting with DIY decals. I am experimenting using a photocopier (from the office) since I only want a black or gray VF-1J Stripes (I dont know how to do the imaging using PC). Gray looks really bad from test copies the dots are really visible. The Skull decal on the back was scanned into the computer, then reprinted onto decal paper in gray scale. The eye is recolored with a dab of yellow paint. Edited January 7, 2015 by Thom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I guess going the easy route is really problematic. And also, I need to use a better printer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelglue Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 I like it, grey (gray) low viz schemes are much more 'tech' feeling to me, as opposed to the cartoonish hi-viz paint work. I appreciate both, but my preference is towards subtlety. SchizophrenicMC that turned out nice, 1/100 scale? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 (edited) update before I call it a day. decals used is a photocopied yamato water slide decals. I was originally aiming for gray but black seems not so bad after all. Edited January 7, 2015 by chyll2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I like it, grey (gray) low viz schemes are much more 'tech' feeling to me, as opposed to the cartoonish hi-viz paint work. I appreciate both, but my preference is towards subtlety. SchizophrenicMC that turned out nice, 1/100 scale? It's non-scale, but if I had to try and pin it to a scale, I'd say it's bigger than 1/72 but smaller than 1/48. Maybe in the 1/60 range. I might try and find a scale person and try and match it, but then I might not. The mecha in Eureka Seven are pretty small. The kit itself is between HG and MG size. I need to get up off my ass, though, and clear coat it. I have a bad habit of getting paint done at night, cleaning up, going to bed, and never going back for clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechTech Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 If any of you guys are having issues with your decals after printing, the Solvset guys make microfilm coating to fix brittle decals and fix old ones. I had that problem with photocopied ones (I think it's the heat).-MT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelglue Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 I need to get up off my ass, though, and clear coat it. I have a bad habit of getting paint done at night, cleaning up, going to bed, and never going back for clear. At least you brought it this far; I am starting to get a second collection of kits, but they are in a half built state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 update before I call it a day. decals used is a photocopied yamato water slide decals. I was originally aiming for gray but black seems not so bad after all. That looks great! Love the color scheme! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Late Xmas present to myself....my first Iwata Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SchizophrenicMC Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 You and Hikuro both in one day. Welcome to the club. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickyg Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 Count me in as another proud Iwata person. Here's what I'm currently attempting to finish off: Never sat well with me that the DX valks have silver gear and unpainted gear bays. Its even more annoying that the micro-missiles get red seeker heads but the bodies are unpainted. Isamu needs some doctoring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 10, 2015 Share Posted January 10, 2015 Tie Bomber build is coming along.....decided to work on drilling out the cockpit so it has some depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chyll2 Posted January 12, 2015 Share Posted January 12, 2015 anyone have tried to dis-assemble Super/Armored parts for 25 or 29? The assembly sees does not use any glue but a layer of parts sandwiched together to hide the screws. There are screw covers as well that does not seem have any fair chance to be removed without destroying the area around it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derex3592 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 That moment when, on a bright sunny Sunday morning, you wake up ready to paint with your new airbrush and realize your shape ways parts have not dried AT ALL after you cleaned and primered them yesterday. So for the next two hours you give the parts another scrubbing in solvent and goo gone baths before re-primering them....*siiiiigh* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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