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Whats Lying on your Workbench MK IV

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hahahahaa!!! "a quick and fast model"...and you picked a tiny lighted Falcon?! :D:lol: I admire your moxie sir!!! B))

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Soooo.. my brand new Tie Striker came missing a freakin front laser cannon.. come on Bandai.. FFS... uhhhgggg, bad enough that I lost one on the Tie Interceptor, now this. Not a good run on Imperial fighters over here... LOL 

20170308_211632.jpg

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16 hours ago, derex3592 said:

hahahahaa!!! "a quick and fast model"...and you picked a tiny lighted Falcon?! :D:lol: I admire your moxie sir!!! B))

I'm partial to lighting because my paint skills aren't what I want them to be.

But if you combine an artist with lighting, killer combo!

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6 minutes ago, electric indigo said:

More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite.

32986907601_00e31a5426_z.jpg

33113624575_787131c6c8_z.jpg

You can also look into focus stacking software. Makes for really sharp images of miniatures.

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Tie Striker is coming along, I'm doing a "work week" build on this one... an hour early in the morning before work and an hour after work.. see if that helps my completion ratio a bit.. before the new wife to be moves in in June... LOL. Tamiya TS32 Haze Grey decanted and airbrushed for main body and wings, flat black XF-1 for the solar panels. 

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20170309_201918.jpg

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Are you gonna recast the laser cannon thats missing derex? It looks like it would be identical to the one you do have.

Edited by Big s

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It's such a microscopic part, I don't know what I'm gonna do, might look through my old extra pars box and see what I can come up with. Don't know how to recast and don't wanna spend time dealing with such a tiny detail really. 

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Would it be workable to use the laser from the Striker to replace the missing one for the Interceptor? Or vise-versa? Then substitute a pair of something else similar on the other fighter?

In my head, all OT TIE cannons are the same, but I don't actually know if this is true...

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Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'.

For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again,  and results are quite usable.

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On 01/02/2017 at 5:19 AM, chyll2 said:

@Xigfrid

just go do the complete upgrade set.

WIP picure :)

A lot of issues with attachments considering the VF1 should transform. I also ordered the Visual Books when I found that Kuna models were not really accurate to the VF X++ line art.

 

WIP+.jpg

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2 hours ago, Kelsain said:

Would it be workable to use the laser from the Striker to replace the missing one for the Interceptor? Or vise-versa? Then substitute a pair of something else similar on the other fighter?

In my head, all OT TIE cannons are the same, but I don't actually know if this is true...

It's not true concerning the two that I have lost/missing..sadly. 

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1 hour ago, Xigfrid said:

WIP picure :)

A lot of issues with attachments considering the VF1 should transform. I also ordered the Visual Books when I found that Kuna models were not really accurate to the VF X++ line art.

 

WIP+.jpg

NIce! I think KuWa's 1/72 VF-1X++ is closer to the line art and the 1/60 one is supposed to be a precursor or something if I recall.

Edited by wmkjr

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2 hours ago, Chas said:

Do yourself a favour and Google 'recasting with epoxy putty'.

For a small part like that it is the way I would go - quick, easy, no exotic ($$) material needed, easy to do over and over again,  and results are quite usable.

OK, so maybe I'm a sucker for "hey that looks fairly easy on Youtube!"...hahaha...but yeh, that might actually work great for both my tiny missing parts, next time I'm at the good Hobby Shop, I'll see what kind of epoxy putty they have and give it a shot..I'm sure there will be some trial and error, so I'll post my test runs on here so everyone can have a good laugh!:D:rolleyes:

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16 minutes ago, derex3592 said:

OK, so maybe I'm a sucker for "hey that looks fairly easy on Youtube!"...hahaha...but yeh, that might actually work great for both my tiny missing parts, next time I'm at the good Hobby Shop, I'll see what kind of epoxy putty they have and give it a shot..I'm sure there will be some trial and error, so I'll post my test runs on here so everyone can have a good laugh!:D:rolleyes:

Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution?

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I've cast the hands and individual face parts from various Gundam kits and lots of small pieces from all sorts of other stuff that ad broken off, never really had an issue with air bubbles. I just pack the putty in real tight.

Ohh, and DRex I just use miliput as it's cheap and available where I am. No need for anything super special here.

 

Here is a tutorial (where I first learned how to do this) from a Malasian modelling forum PLAMO.

All props to the original author

http://plamo.outthere.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=38

Edited by Chas

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Yep that should work fine.

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Yeah, the standard is what I use. It works well.

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Ooh, that's a nifty idea. Think it would work with melted beam-saber plastic?

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Not sure what you mean.

The recast part should look like the part that the mould was made from. If you make a mould from a melted beam saber then the recast part will look like a melted beam saber - except it will be made of epoxy putty, not soft, translucent, coloured plastic.

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Milliput is GREAT stuff!  Very strong structurally too! - MT

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7 hours ago, arbit said:

Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution?

Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent.

Edited by Chas

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On 3/9/2017 at 0:04 PM, electric indigo said:

More for my 1/72 Air Force. I need to re-shoot this with more depth of field for a proper composite.

32986907601_00e31a5426_z.jpg

33113624575_787131c6c8_z.jpg

Beautiful flawless finish!!!  Looks great, I didn't know China had the Eurofighter?  What kit is that BTW?  I love all the rivet details especially at 1/72 scale!

 

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I usually use milliput on filling large areas and sea line gaps, but I never thought about recasting with it. I'm gonna have to give that a shot.

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7 hours ago, Chas said:

Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent.

Glad we are having this discussion!

I guess the Miliput is less prone to bubbles.

I have been using Alumilite Clear Resin. Seems to shrink as it dries in addition to bubbles throughout, even though I leave several air valves. Drives me crazy.

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@arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone  mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit.

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1 hour ago, Chas said:

@arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone  mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit.

Good to know.  Thanks for clarifying the difference. 

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Tie Striker completed. This kit was slightly more annoying and not as 100% Bandai perfect as other reviews have mentioned.  It didn't seem to want to snap together as well in some places. I'll try the epoxy casting thing for the missing laser when I get it in the mail later on this week. Anyways.... back to the SDF-1 after a couple of distractions....

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20170311_103537.jpg

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19 hours ago, wm cheng said:

Beautiful flawless finish!!!  Looks great, I didn't know China had the Eurofighter?  What kit is that BTW?  I love all the rivet details especially at 1/72 scale!

Thanks, William. The kit is from Trumpeter, excellent fit and parts breakdown. The surface details are a bit strong compared to Hase, but look very good if you dial down the panel wash a bit with overspray.

Legend has it that the J-10 was developed from the IAI Lavi.

http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10366014

Hobbysearch's price seems a bit high, though, I can get the kit locally for about 27 Euro.

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Always like to see progress on an SDF!

 

Close for me now...

O2RgGfj.jpg

Edited by Thom
  • Upvote 1

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4 hours ago, Thom said:

Always like to see progress on an SDF!

 

Close for me now...

O2RgGfj.jpg

Looking pretty tight on that paint job, Thom!

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