MickyG's Yamato VF-1S Unpainted, Unassembled Kit Build

[miriya]

My kit came in the mail today from HLJ. I will be following your progress here for guideance.

[Lolicon]

IIRC, the visors were never molded in color, they were always tinted in green. From the various 1/48 heads I've disassembled on three seperate occasions I was able to remove the green tint using "Simple Green" or paint remover for plastics.

Really? Damn I wish I could get mine so bright and even.

[David Hingtgen]

Don't know how I missed this before, but anyways:

1. Any plane that gets "special" camo tends to have reduced markings. Only the factory puts on ALL of them. Even a "stripped to bare metal" full repaint at a dedicated paint depot with "all" markings re-applied won't get everything that the factory puts on. (except in Japan) "Local" repaints at a base get even fewer markings, and unique/short-lived schemes are lucky to have anything more than national insignia.

2. Dobber already chimed in, but "Dobber camo" is the NSAWC blue-grey camo, modified to be more Flanker-esque. There's plenty more new/cool Flanker camos out there, if you want suggestions. (plus the new PAK-FA, and the Arctic Falcons)

3. Glue! I have found Plastruct's "Plastic Weld" to be about the only thing effective on Yamato ABS plastic. Note that this is a super-thin glue like Tenax, so you've got about 1 second to get the parts together before it dries and you have to re-apply. The parts must be stuck together while the cement is still wet. Most any hobby/model shop should sell it, comes in a glass jar with an orange label.

4. Slightly purple parts? Common with Bandai mecha, the 1/72 Alto kit is almost entirely composed of it--I personally believe it's an attempt to prevent yellowing by "blueing" the plastic--may be a sign of styrene vs ABS.

[mickyg]

Thanks David!

As for plastic, the box says ABS, POM on the outside. I've always seen this on the details of HLJ's ordering page (I think that's where I've seen it) but didn't know that was straight from Yamato. So yeah, I'm guessing the ABS is the majority of hte kit and that (possibly) the purple tinted plastic is the POM. Either way, it looks like Plastic Weld is what I'll be looking for. Although, given how hard it is to find anything here in Australia that's common in the States, I might be looking for something not made by Plastruct. I asked the hobby store guy the other day what he'd recommend for ABS and he said there's some sort of Testors product, also in a glass bottle. He was out but said the main ingredient was MEK (nasty stuff). Perhaps that's going to be the ingredient to look for.

[Darth Mingus]

Whatever glue you use, make sure you test it on some sprue first. I had horrible experiences with Bandai's ABS plastic and the Humbrol liquid cement. It would dissolve the plastic like no one's business, making the ABS extremely brittle. The ABS parts literally fell apart in my hands.

Thanks David!

As for plastic, the box says ABS, POM on the outside. I've always seen this on the details of HLJ's ordering page (I think that's where I've seen it) but didn't know that was straight from Yamato. So yeah, I'm guessing the ABS is the majority of hte kit and that (possibly) the purple tinted plastic is the POM. Either way, it looks like Plastic Weld is what I'll be looking for. Although, given how hard it is to find anything here in Australia that's common in the States, I might be looking for something not made by Plastruct. I asked the hobby store guy the other day what he'd recommend for ABS and he said there's some sort of Testors product, also in a glass bottle. He was out but said the main ingredient was MEK (nasty stuff). Perhaps that's going to be the ingredient to look for.

[mickyg]

Very good to know! I have it in my head to only use glue in places where it actually needs it. Most of the parts interlock so gluing isn't actually necessary. However, the clear parts, the nosecone, and a few others that I haven't specifically identified yet, will have to have something to hold them on.

Speaking of clear parts - anyone know if the glue is going to make the clear parts cloudy? I'll likely have to test the glue on some sprue to be sure.

[regult]

superglue will be a risk, higher end brands have better formulas but still may cloud when drying.

maybe the best option is to go with tamiya modeling glue (dries very slowly) for clear parts.

[mickyg]

I've got some. I just thought it'd be risky to use on a "toy" that I plan to transform/"play" with. I don't actually do much playing though. Mostly just posing it on the mightyblock (I think that's what it's called) stand that I have and the occasional transformation. I suppose I could test it.

[Darth Mingus]

For the clear parts, stay away from the types of glue that melt the plastic to bond it. I would try 5-minute epoxy or contact cement.

I've got some. I just thought it'd be risky to use on a "toy" that I plan to transform/"play" with. I don't actually do much playing though. Mostly just posing it on the mightyblock (I think that's what it's called) stand that I have and the occasional transformation. I suppose I could test it.

[valhary]

mickyg can you scan the assembly guide?..... specifically the head part i like to see if is posible add a led for the visor

[mickyg]

Only had time to scan the one page. Hope that helps. It looks like putting an LED in might not be too difficult.

Anyone want to translate the second scan? It's an addendum in the manual. I think it's just pointing out an error in the length of the pin mentioned. It shows 13mm but should be 10mm, if I'm not mistaken.

20100512112337295.pdf

20100512112448806.pdf

Edited May 12, 2010 by mickyg

[valhary]

thanks a lot mickyg thats enough

[mickyg]

I assembled the cockpit/fuselage section yesterday, to get a feel for what will need to be painted and how it's going to fit together. It's not bad but I really take for granted the painting on this toy. Here's a comparison between my 1J and the unassembled:

So I'm going to have to paint the inside of the fuselage section in a dark grey. I'll likely paint the grey stuff too because getting a perfect match will be nearly impossible. The instrument cluster and cowl appear to be black on the completed toy so perhaps I'll stick with that. Then again, I should really look to some production aircraft to see what the typical scheme really is. After all, there are hardly any "rules" to how this should look, right?

[Chronocidal]

Well, while this is technically a non-existent aircraft, considering the era it was designed in, I'd think it would use standard military colors for that time period.

I don't know the exact shades used, but there are definitely specific grays used for the interiors of navy aircraft. Considering the resemblance, you'd probably do well to look up the standard cockpit shades for things like Tomcats and Hornets.

Now, if you really want to make things interesting... you could add some extra bits to the cockpit that aren't there yet... I'm thinking ejection seat handles, canopy rail seals/hooks, etc., things you'd find in an actual cockpit. I don't know how model-like you intend this to be, but it would be fun to add a few details Yamato never put in.

[mickyg]

Precisely what I was thinking! I like the idea of making this similar to other aircraft at the time. Within reason though, I mean there isn't a HUD projector or glass, for instance - do I want to add one or go with the futuristic DYRL style where everything is holo projected onto the inside of the canopy?

I do like the idea of adding missing details but I'm not sure how crazy I want to get. There is an awful lot missing, after all!

[Iceblue106]

Precisely what I was thinking! I like the idea of making this similar to other aircraft at the time. Within reason though, I mean there isn't a HUD projector or glass, for instance - do I want to add one or go with the futuristic DYRL style where everything is holo projected onto the inside of the canopy?

I do like the idea of adding missing details but I'm not sure how crazy I want to get. There is an awful lot missing, after all!

Hi MickyG,

I've done some actual paint applications to F-14 tomcats durning my time in the Navy and after some research I have found a link for you that

is compatible with the actual paint colors I used on the aircraft. The tomcat specifically had a interior green color fabric for the seat

cushions, instruments and majority of the cockpit area where painted in either a semi gloss black 27038 (instrument black),

or flat black 37038 as mentioned in the link. (Exterior) Tactical paint schemes of the time were in shades of gray ranging from

36321 (top) 36375 (sides) and 36440 (bottom)

Here's the link: http://www.simmerspaintshop.com/page-RGB-colors-USA.html

Hope this helps you out some and I look forward to seeing your finished project.

Blue

Also I included some pictures that may help (with exterior colors) sorry no pictures for interior

[mickyg]

That is most appreciated! Nothing quite like the real thing for reference and someone who's worked on the real thing is icing on the cake! Thanks heaps!

Any chance you ever saw the aggressor scheme I'll be doing? I'm guessing the cockpit would be the same - far too much trouble to repaint the interior to simulate an enemy plane!

Edited May 20, 2010 by mickyg

[Iceblue106]

That is most appreciated! Nothing quite like the real thing for reference and someone who's worked on the real thing is icing on the cake! Thanks heaps!

Any chance you ever saw the aggressor scheme I'll be doing? I'm guessing the cockpit would be the same - far too much trouble to repaint the interior to simulate an enemy plane!

As a matter of fact I have seen the aggressor scheme before and you would be correct with your statement about the cockpit being the same.

I don't have any real life pictures to help you but I have a mother load link that should be far more helpful than any real life image.

Enjoy and let me know if this helps. (note at the bottom of the link it gives you the option to visit the first 3 sections as well)

http://www.hyperscale.com/features/2001/f14constructiondwa_4.htm

Blue

[Ghost Train]

I practiced painting splinter camo in an aggressor type pattern on my Viper Mk II. It was my first stab at doing this, and it turned out better than I had hoped. I shall spam 1 more photo .

Can't wait to try it on a valkyrie, though I haven't selected which one. Exotic camo's look kind of weird on a VF-1 in my opinion since the underbelly is very "busy," and would contort the patterns strangely (in my head at least). However, I think it would look sweet on a YF-21/VF-22.

Edited May 21, 2010 by Ghost Train

[Chronocidal]

Actually, even with the busy underbelly, that NSAWC camo pattern is solid underneath, so it wouldn't matter too much, and it would make painting the arms and shoulders easy. How you'd divide up the rest of the pattern though, I have no idea. It gets complicated around the tail section and engines.

[mickyg]

(Chronocidal beat me to it!)

Ah, but this scheme is just plain grey on the bottom - that's the beauty of it!

Iceblue: Thanks for that link. Much appreciated!

Edited May 22, 2010 by mickyg

[Iceblue106]

(Chronocidal beat me to it!)

Ah, but this scheme is just plain grey on the bottom - that's the beauty of it!

Iceblue: Thanks for that link. Much appreciated!

No problem Mickyg!! PM me if you have anymore questions that I may be able to help out with.

Other than that keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing this build progress.

Blue

[mickyg]

Heh, so do I! I thought I was going to get started on it but got suckered into working on someone's car yesterday (I dabble in auto mechanics in my spare time - yeah, as if I had any of that!). To top it off, they never showed up so yesterday was pretty much a write off! So annoying...

[valhary]

i need help i cant identify these parts

[mickyg]

No problem - those are screws!

[valhary]

ah ok thanks

[valhary]

are these screws of the head? and other question the curled metal pins are the reason of break shoulders and all my pins have it so it is possible fixed or no matter

Edited June 1, 2010 by valhary

[mickyg]

Don't know how I missed this. Sorry Valhary!

And now for the disappointment... I don't actually know! I'll have to start on mine to be able to give you a firm answer.

I do have some progress though! I started working on the coloring by overlaying the yamato instruction sheet (scanned at 300 dpi) on the F-14 Agressor scheme from the first page. I'm teaching myself graphics editing skills to do this so it's good for my skills but not so great for quick progress.

Anyway, it's coming along. I'm not sure how I'll mask it yet and I'm already starting to worry about paint chipping. No idea how easy/hard this is and how obvious it'll be if it does scratch. But here's my reasoning: the kit is white, the lightest color I'll be using is light grey (well not counting the nose). If it scratches, it will be visible. I'm thinking the tops of the intakes are going to be pretty obvious, with the little pegs. Maybe I'll have to get over it and push forward regardless...

[valhary]

that sounds very interesting dont forget post pics

[mickyg]

No more progress on the tracing I'm doing yet.

But I did manage to get the cockpit parts painted today! Not much but it's a start!

There's should be more progress this week.

[mickyg]

Quick post with some pics from yesterday...

The parts I'm currently working with:

Some distractions along the way (may as well work on two things at once, right?):

Everything painted (except the head rest - I'm not happy with it and will have a second attempt):

And my tools, along with my attempt at the same colours on the Hasegawa VF-1D kit (Paint didn't cover well and I plan to hit it with the air brush):

All brush painted because I got lazy! There will be some oil washing and (hopefully) some dry brushing on these parts too.

[valhary]

exellent can see the progress step by step im very interested in the head part because until now i dont have the certainty that i assambled right

[mickyg]

Got some pre-shading and small amount of base coat on today.

This is my first foray into pre-shading and it was tough! I expect in another few years, if I stick with it, I might actually get good at it! The airbrush is great for fine lines but my hand isn't steady at all and following the panel lines resulted in squiggles instead of straight lines. But strangely enough, once the base coat was over it, it didn't seem to matter much. I experimented on the Hasegawa VF-1D gun first (well, yesterday actually) and realised very quickly how important a steady hand is. By the time I re-did it today (love acrylic paints!) it was a much better experience.

Hasegawa VF-1D gunpod practice (pre-shaded, then base coat):

Lots and lots of parts laid out:

First base coat applied (and the paint I'm using in the first pic):

This gray paint has been a bit of a learning experience. It's something I bought specifically for this project because none of the local hobby shops I frequent, had all the colors I needed in Tamiya or GSI brands. So I got these new ones. They were a bit more expensive but also have more volume of paint.

Firstly, they do not thin well with Tamiya thinner. I mixed a few drops of paint with a drop of thinner and it looked like it was thinning the paint but a few seconds later, it all sort of started to seperate into tiny little particles. Imagine cottage cheese on a much finer scale. So that sort of thinner was definitely out. I did some reading up on this brand of paint and from what I saw, water is the best option. So I tried that in my airbrush. That went on horribly. The paint went on like you'd expect water to - all beaded up and runny! My final solution - straight paint into the airbrush. That went on like a dream! Very smooth and very even coverage for a single coat. The second will go on tomorrow.

So the "Lifecolor" paints are definitely good, quality wise. And you get more in a jar compared to Tamiya or GSI. But, since there's no need to thin (they really are pretty thin paints to start with) I'm not sure you're getting your money's worth here.

So far, I'm learning lots about paint coverage, how seemingly insignificant getting the pre-shading exactly perfect is (For the 1D gun, you can't even see the shading after the base coat!) and how patience is still very much needed.

Next up: I think I'll loosely assemble the kit so I can get a better idea of what goes where and what needs to be painted. I've decided to leave a lot of parts white, as it ties in with the white nose and landing gear. Why not have internal parts remain white? As long as they don't clash too much, I think it'll work pretty well. I'm thinking the swing bar, the nose and hip attachment points, and a few others can all stay white without throwing the scheme off too much. We'll see though...

Edited September 4, 2010 by mickyg

[mickyg]

Managed to get some oil wash done on the cockpit area. Not much to look at but it's at least some progress.

Edited September 4, 2010 by mickyg

[mickyg]

More progress today (only seems to happen when I'm home from work, sick...). Got lots of painting done, which was a positive. But unfortunately, during the parts cleaning (soapy warm water in my kitchen sink) I lost a part. It's the small insert that fits under the bottom fin near the "shin" of the leg. There are two and they form part of the mechanism that allows the fin to fold in on itself. No idea why it's a seperate part as it looks like it could have been molded to the leg. Anyway, it must've washed down the sink, even though I was super, super careful not to do just that. I figure I'll make one out of styrene sheet. I knew I should have kept them on the sprue until the very last minute!

Here's the part (red shows the other one, green is the missing one):

I wasn't happy with my pre-shading attempt the first time, particularly with the backpack. The Tamiya acrylic (black) I used was thinned too much and the pressure was too high. So my first few attempts a few weeks back weren't great. By the time I got the last batch done, I sorta had the hang of it. So I started over on the bad ones. Removing the paint was very easy-just a bit of windex and a toothbrush. The Lifecolor paint I'm using is very different from the Tamiya stuff - it doesn't come off with Windex. Very odd when the paint under is Tamiya, it gets that off and the Lifecolor paint on top of it, but leaves the rest. I didn't photograph it but it was weird. Nice to have a basecoat that won't react to Windex though! Oh, and this time, I decided holding the part and freehanding the airbrush was not a good way to get a straight line. Two hands this time, with the part stuck on a stable surface. I think the results were much better than my first attempt a few weeks back.

As you can see from the next pic, the basecoat covers a multitude of sins! So getting the pre-shading perfect isn't exactly super important (the white stains you can see at the back is what happens when you don't thoroughly dry the parts before painting. There was a lot of water inside the back of the gun and it dripped out into the wet paint - oops):

My first attempt at gray a few weeks back was a bit too light. Also, I used the thinned with water approach and it looked awful on most of what I did. So here it is with the second (and likely final) coat:

And a comparison between the standard (unpainted) gun and my custom coloured one. I think if this were a real gunpod, it'd likely get the same basecoat as the rest of the underside of the aircraft. But this isn't a standard gunpod, right?

And (some of) the parts touch dry, inside where it's warm so they can fully dry: