Gundam Plamodel Thread IV

[mikeszekely]

Bandai waterslides are terrible. Very poor adhesion and very brittle.

However, using decal setting solution, decal softener, and spraying a coat of clear goes a long way in making waterslide decals more hardy.

I think that's just more effort than I'm willing to give. I guess I'll "stick" to the stickers.

[Hikuro]

it'd been nice if they gave you the options of either or. Honestly, there's almost nothing about this kit where stickers couldn't of been used.

My funnels are done, not that pretty but they'll do just fine. Shield is done as well...I skipped the smaller stickers, they're distracting.

Leaves me with the beam rifle, hyper bazooka and the boosters to go....I really just want to finish this damn thing and move on.

[Nekko Basara]

I finally got around to getting some decent shots for a Unicorn Gundam Gallery.

[Hikuro]

I finally got around to getting some decent shots for a Unicorn Gundam Gallery.

Unicorn 01.jpg Unicorn 2-4.jpg Unicorn 2-9.jpg

good job! pretty clean assembly.

I've been moving onto my PG wing zero and now at the wiring phase.

as I look and study hard my brain says "oh this shouldn't be to hard!"

so my confidence is building.

[renegadeleader1]

I haven't started my sniper K9 GM yet, but I was wondering for those who one is it possible to replace the K9 backpack's front feet with hands so it can hold the pistols or beam sabers? I guess what I'm asking is if using the backpack can it pull off a General Grevious?

Also if I'm able to attach the extra K9's I have to my RB-79 twin set does that make them a pair of doggy balls?

[Hikuro]

Here's where I'm at after nearly 2 months of working on my PG Wing Zero. Wiring....wiring....wiring.

but despite some issues, the overall look of the Hi-Nu Vers Ka came out well!

[Nekko Basara]

That Hi-Nu is a beast, Hikuro. I love it!
I... can't even fathom the PG kits. Very brave.

[Hikuro]

That Hi-Nu is a beast, Hikuro. I love it!

I... can't even fathom the PG kits. Very brave.

I've built a PG before, long long time ago....I wanna say 2005 when the Strike PG came out. I was at a convention and stumbled upon it quite by accident. Paid I think 200 for it : / which was pretty steep. But I had a huge cash flow back then and it was just one of like a dozen items I picked up. THAT didn't require any wiring at all. And then I built a Zaku II when Amazon had an oops and I believe it was being sold for dirt freaking cheap (think like 75%) and they had no choice but to honor it. That one I don't remember having wiring either.

But in any case.....

I F&8KING DID IT! It was a pain! It took me 45 minutes. I stripped both ends cause I thought it would be a little easier with less insulation since the screw do NOT fit into the holes they need to go in. The black wire kept popping out so I'd have to stop and rescrew it in. I'm a little worried though cause I cut like a small bit off, maybe like a millimeter by accident trying to strip it. Then I thought of a safer way to do it.

Gave it a test like the instructions said, so the Gray wire is the negative and the Black wire is the Positive just as the manual instructs.

That's all I'm doing tonight.

Oh, and tomorrow I have a Bandai green LED light system coming in for the Hi-Nu to decalre it 100% complete.

Edited September 18, 2014 by Hikuro

[David Hingtgen]

Tip for PG Zero: Trim about 10mm off of the long wires leading to the battery case. There's more than enough, the problem is trying to stuff it all inside near the end! (there's really nowhere for it to go)

[Hikuro]

Tip for PG Zero: Trim about 10mm off of the long wires leading to the battery case. There's more than enough, the problem is trying to stuff it all inside near the end! (there's really nowhere for it to go)

was having enough problems holding the wires in place so I can screw them in. I wish had had a soldering iron to seal the deal!

[Hikuro]

Oh snap I got my LED dealios in and they were actually 2 sets. So now either my Sazabi or my 1/500ever Yamato can has lights. Well, if I do Yamato I need a red one.

Oh woops forgot, wing zero's head now lights up, which is a plus! Most of the torso is built, tomorrow I'll be building the armor around the head and getting that back pack up and running.

Edited September 19, 2014 by Hikuro

[mikeszekely]

Looking forward to the finished product. I've never done a PG before, so I'm curious.

I know I've been quiet for awhile, but Char's Z'Gok is readily available at Amazon now. I'll probably combine it with a preorder for the D&D 5e Monster Manual, though.

[renegadeleader1]

I'm back with another question. I'm not much into the MG kits, but the RGM-79 regular GM intrigues me. What exactly is the difference between the 1.0 and 2.0 versions of the GM? I've heard its more to do with the 1.0 looking like the original animation with no neck and the 2.0 being modernized and Katoki-ish without going into RGM-79C redesign territory. Is that true?

[dizman]

Are you talking about the plain ol RGM-79? Well the MG V1 is based off the same MG V1 RX-78 kit that came out in the mid 90's (the first master grade I think) so it is essentially a big HG. I recommend staying far away from that kit as it has not aged well. The V2 is based off the MG RX-78 V2 from the late 2000's and is a true MG with a fancy skeletal frame and good poseability. The V1 is sorta Katoki-ish while the V2 looks like it came straight out of the show.

V1 http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN71869/

V2 http://www.hlj.com/product/BAN958126/

[Hikuro]

I don't mind the Version 1 GM, it's a quick and easy build but it HAS TOO have a paint job to get it right. Version 2, not so much. It at least has more of an inner frame than the Version 1 did.

Kind of like how I just built an arragement of GM's last month....all the latest versions, and then I built the original RGM-79 1/144 from WAAAAY back and the articulation and detailing is VERY basic and not so exciting. But gosh darnit, it was fun.

I dabbled a bit on my Wing Zero....I mainly attached some skirt armor and finished building the head. I'm at a loss on the wiring, the diagram just isn't helpful enough.

I'll take a picture tomorrow morning I had a long day, but I could use some guidance to see if anyone sees something I'm not.

[treatment]

my remaining old enemy MGs...

thinking about re-igniting my MG-hobby...

[Hikuro]

Okay so if I'm understanding it, on step 54 it's telling me to cut the exposed ends of the wires and screw them in place which that'll be interesting cause the screws can't punch thru 1 wire let alone two. But which set of wires? The wires connecting to the chest portion or the wires connecting to the head portion? Does it really even matter?

Step 55 is that showing me I need to take the last 2 bits of wire cut them to 25mm and some how loop them around the circuit board? How the hell do I do that with tiny lil wires? Then it doesn't even really tell you where those wires really need to connect too cause they cut the diagram in half!

[Scyla]

Please take the flowing sentences with a huge pile of salt because I can't read Japanese nor have I ever built such a kit.

My best guess is that the two wires from 54-1 there is one from the chest and one from the head and on step 55 there is also one from the head and one from the chest LED because they should create an electrical circuit.

He seems to have one gray wire and one black wire fixated by the same screw maybe check this video out to get an idea. He doesn't show the wiring of the part but you get an idea what goes where ad Minute 5:50.

The screw in 54-2 should not pinch trough the wires. The washer part of the piece from 54-2 where the screw goes through should pinch the wires between the battery compartment and the metal washer. The same goes for the small 25 mm piece of wire. This is both indicated buy the symbol with the question mark. I would fixate one end of the wire to the switch first and than screw in the washer bit. Second install the switch and third try to fiddle the wire into its position

Checking the manual pictures for a second time it could also indicate to insert the wires inside the hole for the screw where the gap is on the piece. However this is hard to tell from the images.

So you should probably get a second opinion on this.

[Hikuro]

Please take the flowing sentences with a huge pile of salt because I can't read Japanese nor have I ever built such a kit.

My best guess is that the two wires from 54-1 there is one from the chest and one from the head and on step 55 there is also one from the head and one from the chest LED because they should create an electrical circuit.

He seems to have one gray wire and one black wire fixated by the same screw maybe check this video out to get an idea. He doesn't show the wiring of the part but you get an idea what goes where ad Minute 5:50.

The screw in 54-2 should not pinch trough the wires. The washer part of the piece from 54-2 where the screw goes through should pinch the wires between the battery compartment and the metal washer. The same goes for the small 25 mm piece of wire. This is both indicated buy the symbol with the question mark. I would fixate one end of the wire to the switch first and than screw in the washer bit. Second install the switch and third try to fiddle the wire into its position

Checking the manual pictures for a second time it could also indicate to insert the wires inside the hole for the screw where the gap is on the piece. However this is hard to tell from the images.

So you should probably get a second opinion on this.

Yeah still a little hard to tell. I've seen this guys video and from what I gathered he couldn't even get his to light up so he goofed somewhere. and I think it was that he just placed the wires wrong area.

sadly my day is pretty busy I hope that after I come back from puppy training I can sit down, look these over and figure it out better. It DOES show like what was said couple days ago, you got a ton more slack in the wiring than what's really needed...I could almost see where if you're not careful and you put in to much pressure on bunching them all up you could pop a wire out of place.

It was interesting cause when I did the screwing on the chest piece, the screws were very loose fitting, but the time I got to the head unit, VERY tight fit, no way those were going to wiggle off like the chest portion did and that's what took so damn long to do.

Just gonna contemplate it for a while, I don't wanna muck this up.

[David Hingtgen]

IMG_0062.JPG

Okay so if I'm understanding it, on step 54 it's telling me to cut the exposed ends of the wires and screw them in place which that'll be interesting cause the screws can't punch thru 1 wire let alone two. But which set of wires? The wires connecting to the chest portion or the wires connecting to the head portion? Does it really even matter?

The wires wrap around the "post" of the screw, under the screw head. As the screw is tightened, the head will press against them, holding them in place against piece "B". The real goal, is to electrically connect the wires to piece B. The screw is doing so mechanically, but it'd be better to solder if possible. Their suggestion to cut off the stripped ends is just nuts. You want the stripped ends contacting the screw etc. You'll want enough stripped length to wrap around under the screw-head. Of these two wires---one should go to the chest, and one to the head, but both meet up at "piece B" and the screw. The on/off switch should be similar----from the middle post of the switch, one wire to the head, one to the chest.

Color-wise---I can't recall which color is supposed to be what on this kit, but so long as you're consistent, it should work (assuming LED is wired correctly, they are one-way devices). Color "A" should meet up at the middle switch-post, and one of each should go to the head and chest. Color "B" should meet up at the screw post and metal-piece "B", with one each going to the head and chest.

The only really critical thing, polarity-wise, is the LED itself. Make sure to know which is + and which is -, and that you've got everything matching. And make sure head and chest are the same!

IMG_0063.JPG

Step 55 is that showing me I need to take the last 2 bits of wire cut them to 25mm and some how loop them around the circuit board? How the hell do I do that with tiny lil wires? Then it doesn't even really tell you where those wires really need to connect too cause they cut the diagram in half!

Ok, the 25mm piece of wire? Very similar to what you do in the previous step. You are going to use a screw, to hold the wire against a small piece of metal. This time, piece "C". The wire goes from the on/off switch, to the screw-hole. The screw holds that wire and piece "C" together. And the stripped end of the wire should wrap-around the screw-post, looped around underneath the screw head.

The entire kit is designed to be solder-free, but that does lead to some "odd" ways of doing things. Like screwing wires in place!

[Hikuro]

I tried all night to get it going....I F'ed up bad on it somehow and I dunno where. I think it's just more of the line that it's hard to get the screws in place with those damn metal pins.

[David Hingtgen]

Again--solder if possible. Few of my kit's connections are "as designed"---because screwing wires together simply doesn't work!

[mog_kupo]

The new RG

Wing Gundam

[mikeszekely]

Well, it wouldn't have been my first choice... there's still several UC suits I want more, and when it comes to Wing Zero I prefer the TV version without the ridiculous angel wings.

That being said, the HG Wing Zero EW is ancient, with loose construction and requiring a ton of paint. An RG version is going to be a HUGE upgrade, even more so than the RG RX-78 was over the HGUC v.3.

And if they want to do an RG Deathscythe Hell EW, too, I won't say no. The HG version requires you to disassemble and reassemble the wings to close them.

[Nekko Basara]

Funny thing - I am at exactly the opposite place from Mike S. This is exactly the RG I wanted to see. It's a series with no RG coverage, which I have some attachment to (going back to the Cartoon Network broadcasts), and it's a suit in dire need of an upgrade in this scale. For my personal taste, I have never liked the standard Wing Gundam, despite owning several toys of it back in the day. The crazy over-the-top bird wings of the Zero Custom completely float my boat, though. Different strokes for different folks, I guess - but I'd also love to see a RG Deathscythe Hell!

[Scyla]

I said it before and I will say it again I want all the "advanced" suits from EW either as RG or as MG. The one gattling gun on the normal Heavy Arms doesn't do it for me.

[treatment]

Yeah. I welcome these upcoming RGs.

It will automatically be structurally better than the old HGs.

It will also be better proportioned than the girly-waist Robot Damashii's. And cheaper, too.

[Hikuro]

I'm okay with this decision, but I think we'll hear a lot of griping over the gattling vulcan guns.

[David Hingtgen]

It'd be really nice if the buster rifle could mount on the back for storage (like in the manga)

[close313]

WOW totally unexpected for me! I'm definitely getting this! The MG I had was too floppy to play with, so I hope this wouldn't be the same case. But I'm not so sure if the RG-type arms can support that big gun.

By the way, P-bandai exclusive MG Tallgeese III is announced... I'm like WTF? Why not a regular release?!!?

Edited September 23, 2014 by close313

[Hikuro]

well I'm home sick with a cold, I don't have much to do so I was going to try again with the wiring annnnnnddd I lost a clip and a screw. No idea where or how. I think really I'm just ready to go button this thing up and just say I'm done.

[chyll2]

this must be the p-bandai for the RG WZC

[close313]

That add on part is actually bundled with a magazine, but I forgot which magazine it is.

[sketchley]

Says in the picture caption: "Monthly Gundam Ace" 2015 Feb. issue.

[Hikuro]

this is actually going to be very interesting, it almost makes me wanna build a MG variant just so I have 3 sizes.

The PG came out okay, the lighting no longer works, it's just to damn difficult to get it right my hands aren't steady enough for the tight spacing you're given to get it right.

I just have the left wing and buster rifle to go and it's done.

Oh another note, I got Fenice Rinascita waiting at the post office for me to pick up in couple of hours. We'll see how much of a touch it this'll need.