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Anyone have spare parts or junkers of:

1/100 HG Gundam Wing

1/100 HG Gundam Shenlong

Both of mine have broken v fins that I want to replace along with some other parts.

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hobby shop by work had a big order come in, I wasn't intending to get anything but walked away with a ZZ  Ver.Ka.....now I just need space to build it.

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This came yesterday. Haven't started yet, I need to do some thinking about how I plan on painting it. Since I don't want it to be standard colors...

2017-11-10 17.01.54.jpg

Edit:

How should I go about this? Do I prime on the sprue, or should I take the individual pieces off and prime? Do I paint the whole thing once assembled, or as individual pieces?

Edited by Valkyrie Driver

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So hopefully one of you guys can answer this for me.....on and off I've been building a PG Zeta, stored him away for the last 5 months due to lack of interest but I decided to bring him out and finish him off this weekend. I've had him 2/3 of the way built and working on the backpack....I'm where I need to plug in LEDs into the wing tips for the running lights but alas, there is only 2 LEDs in the unopened bag. 1 small green and 1 large red. The Red one goes onto the tail and the one green I got will only cover 1 wing tip.....I looked all over my box and on the baggies and there's nothing. Something seems off! How can they include 2 Red LED's and 1 Green LED?!
So if I need to go buy a new LED....what size is recommended? Infact, somewhere I got a huge container of LED's I think in 3 and 5 millimeters so those could work right?

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21 hours ago, Valkyrie Driver said:

This came yesterday. Haven't started yet, I need to do some thinking about how I plan on painting it. Since I don't want it to be standard colors...

2017-11-10 17.01.54.jpg

Edit:

How should I go about this? Do I prime on the sprue, or should I take the individual pieces off and prime? Do I paint the whole thing once assembled, or as individual pieces?

Depends on how much that gunpla means to you? If its a model you really want to show off, then take the time to prime/paint the pieces individually. :p

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11 minutes ago, seti88 said:

Depends on how much that gunpla means to you? If its a model you really want to show off, then take the time to prime/paint the pieces individually. :p

That's a fair point. I do want to do this up well. This is somewhat uncharted territory for me. I've never painted a gunpla kit. So I should do the pieces individually.

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2 hours ago, Hikuro said:

The Red one goes onto the tail and the one green I got will only cover 1 wing tip.....I looked all over my box and on the baggies and there's nothing. Something seems off! How can they include 2 Red LED's and 1 Green LED?!
So if I need to go buy a new LED....what size is recommended? Infact, somewhere I got a huge container of LED's I think in 3 and 5 millimeters so those could work right?

LED's are very standardized, especially "cheap" ones common to older MG/PG kits.  There would be basically zero difference between "one that looks about right" and the actual Bandai-supplied one.   If anything, newer ones tend to be brighter---that could be good or bad, depending on the look you want.  For matching purposes, it may be best to replace both wingtip ones, so they're of even brightness etc.  

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1 hour ago, seti88 said:

Depends on how much that gunpla means to you? If its a model you really want to show off, then take the time to prime/paint the pieces individually. :p

1 hour ago, Valkyrie Driver said:

That's a fair point. I do want to do this up well. This is somewhat uncharted territory for me. I've never painted a gunpla kit. So I should do the pieces individually.

There's something to be said for whether you want to get rid of seams too, or not. If you do, that further complicates the build/paint process.

You might be able to get away with priming/painting on the runner, if the gates are smartly placed in areas that will either get covered or are otherwise out of sight. (Like if the parts are undergated, for instance, though my impression is that the GM Sniper II is not undergated.) Otherwise, yeah, taking them off the runner and painting them shouldn't be too much trouble.

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On 01/11/2017 at 2:03 PM, F360 said:

look around your room, you see this empty wall? before you know it, i'll have a layer of gundam boxes over it. ^_^

Holy crap.

So those 2 I have on order and probably arriving some time this week is a Strike with the IWSP and gattling gun shield.  I also bought the P-Bandai Heavyarms Custom because I am quite enamoured by the whole gattling gun thing.

This weekend I was opportunistic and picked up in a second hand sale a MG Heavyarms EW and MG Sandrock EW.  Should arrive this week as well.

Got lots of dakka dakka coming.  I've also been thinking long and hard on how and where I want to weather my Astray Red Frame.  I think I've got it now and I've been looking up lots of YouTubes on how to set up weather effects.  I'll give those techniques a go and then drop the decals on and top-coat it and post the results.

Only after then will I pick another kit and give that a start.

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Oh, and also - until December 8th, Gundaminfo has dropped onto their YouTube channel the Thunderbolt December Sky movie.

 

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8 hours ago, kajnrig said:

There's something to be said for whether you want to get rid of seams too, or not. If you do, that further complicates the build/paint process.

You might be able to get away with priming/painting on the runner, if the gates are smartly placed in areas that will either get covered or are otherwise out of sight. (Like if the parts are undergated, for instance, though my impression is that the GM Sniper II is not undergated.) Otherwise, yeah, taking them off the runner and painting them shouldn't be too much trouble.

I think What my plan is going to be is to do a primary pass on priming on the sprue, then remove them, and start fitting pieces. Then I'll remove any seams, and re-prime the sub-assemblies to cover the body work. After that's done, I'll begin by basecoating the model. I'll need to assemble the whole thing to make a cohesive camo scheme. Then comes the panel lining wash, then some drybrushing to add weathering on edges, then some sponging to add some dirt effects. 

I just need to decide what the base color should be. I had been thinking grey, but now I'm considering brown or green. 

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5 hours ago, Valkyrie Driver said:

I think What my plan is going to be is to do a primary pass on priming on the sprue, then remove them, and start fitting pieces. Then I'll remove any seams, and re-prime the sub-assemblies to cover the body work. After that's done, I'll begin by basecoating the model. I'll need to assemble the whole thing to make a cohesive camo scheme. Then comes the panel lining wash, then some drybrushing to add weathering on edges, then some sponging to add some dirt effects. 

I just need to decide what the base color should be. I had been thinking grey, but now I'm considering brown or green. 

You need to take them off the sprue and sand them down, or those rough sprue edges will ruin all the painting and weathering you are planning to do.

Then prime and paint each piece on a stick. To save time, you can do an arm, a leg, etc, at one time if they're the same color.

Edited by arbit

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4 hours ago, arbit said:

You need to take them off the sprue and sand them down, or those rough sprue edges will ruin all the painting and weathering you are planning to do.

Then prime and paint each piece on a stick. To save time, you can do an arm, a leg, etc, at one time if they're the same color.

I use a sandable primer so, that's fine. I do plan on going back for a second pass after I have things fitted. as for time, I'm not worried, I figured this project would be a good warm up for what I'm planning for my Dad's birthday present. For that I'm going to need to test all of my skills and this seemed the perfect way to do it.

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So I figured I'd give a bit of an update on my progress, seeing as I'm doing a completely custom paint scheme. Using the sandable primer was a good call, since now that I'm fitting parts it lets me see how well things are blending and it's letting me take advantage of my bodyworking experience. Things will look a heck of a lot better when I re-prime. It'll also let me go over some spots that didn't get as good a layer of primer. and I'll get to cover some of the bits that I didn't prime. 

All in all it's looking good, and I'll keep posting updates as I make progress.

 

2017-11-14 19.37.54.jpg

2017-11-14 19.37.59.jpg

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1 hour ago, Ignacio Ocamica said:

Looking good so far!!!!

Thanks.

I got bored so I decided to do some more work:

 

2017-11-14 21.30.47.jpg

These assemblies just got another pass with primer and are now drying. Tomorrow I should be able to start painting. I have some ideas, you'll just have to stay tuned and see. 

Edited by Valkyrie Driver

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Figured I'd show off my more or less complete RGM-79SP GM Sniper II:

 

2017-11-16 13.49.04 - Copy.jpg

2017-11-16 13.49.10 - Copy.jpg

2017-11-16 13.51.08 - Copy.jpg

2017-11-16 13.53.05.jpg

2017-11-16 13.51.18.jpg

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Probably second to last progress photos of my MG Red Astray before I will call it complete and move onto something next.

I couldn't get the waterslide decals working.  For some reason or another, they aren't loosening off the backing paper.  Even soaking in water for over 24 hours, the slides aren't lifting off.... consequently I've had to leave that alone and went only the dry transfer decal only route and thankfully Bandai gives a lot of extra decals, many which many wouldn't ever use so I've made use of that to put some decals around places where the waterslides were suggested to go.  The little areas are now a bit more lit up with a bit more look and feel.

Did some paint shadowing to try and give it some colour depth.  Not really sure how this has come up... probably makes it look just a bit dirty but oh well.  Panel lines and a bit of silver paint going for a chipping to bare metal effect.

Last two steps will be the application of some rust and dirt weathering effects from Tamiya's weathering master set and a top coat to seal the weathering and decals down.

Any suggestions on what to do differently for effects and overall look and feel for my next project?

 

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Are you sure the waterslides aren't actually stickers? I haven't built the Red Frame, but Bandai doesn't often package waterslides with their kits.

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On 16/11/2017 at 4:39 PM, Valkyrie Driver said:

Figured I'd show off my more or less complete RGM-79SP GM Sniper II:

 

2017-11-16 13.49.04 - Copy.jpg

 

2017-11-16 13.51.08 - Copy.jpg

 

2017-11-16 13.51.18.jpg

Wow awesome!!! Great choice of colors, love this scheme!!!!

How did you apply the different colors?

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48 minutes ago, Ignacio Ocamica said:

Wow awesome!!! Great choice of colors, love this scheme!!!!

Thanks! I was inspired by the 08th MS Team RGM-70[G] Sniper.

49 minutes ago, Ignacio Ocamica said:

How did you apply the different colors?

First thing was a layer of black primer. I use sandable automotive primer, because it's cheap and for models can be used to highlight seams, and even sort of as filler. The Base coat was applied in layers with a Paasche VL-series airbrush, that I had been itching to try out. It worked beautifully by the way, and is now my favorite painting tool. Being a double action Airbrush I had superb control of how much paint I applied in each pass. So I did multiple coats using the black primer as pre-shading for the body and panel lines. I used two different colors for my base coat. The Light blue parts got a coat of Citadel Waagh Flesh green, and the Dark blue parts got a coat of Citadel Caliban Green. I then use the lighter green to barely highlight the darker green parts. After that I used the airbrush to draw some randomized blobs of Citadel XV-88 Brown across the various surfaces, making sure to hit the hard edges with some camo. The weapons were done in Citadel Russ Grey, with a metallic drybrush. The Lenses were all done with a base coat of Citadel Mephiston Red, and then topped with a bit of Citadel Blood For the Blood God technical paint to give a sort of dynamic glazed look. You can't see it but under the main "eye" the lenses and machinery were all painted as well, the machinery in gunmetal with a bronze drybrush and a blue wash, and the lens again with red and the glaze. I used the gunmetal to drybrush the joints, and then used a black ink wash to make the joints look grimey. I then used some foam from a pluck foam case as a sponge to stipple on some gunmetal where there would be wear on the paint. After that, I used several ink washes, green for the panel lines, brown to add some dirt grime where you'd see buildup and streaking from rain, and black for oil grime around joints and thrusters. I also used black to drybrush on some carbon buildup around the thruster exhausts. I then used the sponge again to hit the whole thing with Citadel Balor Borwn, for some dry dirt buildup, and highlighting.

All in all it took about 28-30 total hours of labor to produce. And I'm pretty satisfied with the results, considering that this was my first gunpla kit in around 15 years and the first one I really put any effort into painting. I do think that I will me switching over to mostly Vallejo paints though, since they're a bit less expensive and come in convenient dropper bottles, which makes mixing my paints more exact, because I did have some issues with getting runs and having my paints thinned too much. The next one I'd like to actually try the Hairspray and salt technique on, Maybe a Zeon suit to be the target for my GM Sniper?

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22 hours ago, kajnrig said:

Are you sure the waterslides aren't actually stickers? I haven't built the Red Frame, but Bandai doesn't often package waterslides with their kits.

*gag*

/noob-moment exposed.....  They are just plain old stickers.... so confused.  All the YouTube guides all give the indication that the blue backing sheet are waterslide decals, not plain old stickers.

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<...continued from elsewhere...>

"Nooo, Lunamaria! Don't! Don't cross over to the dark side! Don't blow up the shrine!"

IMG_8980.thumb.jpg.1811e722bbcca24094ad65f3799d7af2.jpg

...sigh, there goes my quiet afternoon visit...

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P-Bandai Hazel titan's color announced. It makes sense that a total recolor is a P-Bandai... EXCEPT WHEN THE BASE KIT IS 80% NEW STUFF AND WAS ALSO P-BANDAI.

Bandai.. why?

mg-hazel-custom-titans-color-%2Brelease%]

 

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1 minute ago, Duymon said:

P-Bandai Hazel titan's color announced. It makes sense that a total recolor is a P-Bandai... EXCEPT WHEN THE BASE KIT IS 80% NEW STUFF AND WAS ALSO P-BANDAI.

Bandai.. why?

Sounds about the right modus operandi.

Also, isn't this based on the Mk. II 2.0? Does it really use so little of the Mk. II?

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Apparently it only uses the arms, most of the leg inner frame, and lower torso frame from the 2.0 MK II. Everything else is original.

 

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Quick build of the MG Hazel. Now I have to dissasemble it, take care of some nub marks, paint it and decal it!!!

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  • Like 2

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Thanks, it's a nice kit. It lacks some details of the last MG's, but it is true to the Hazel design. It uses the MkII ver 2.0 inner frame which is awesome and despite it's bulk it has great articulation.

Will definitely get the Advanced Hazel.

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