Lost and Found Toys now flightpose.com

[Loop]

Thanks for being such a stand up guy Carlos, we really appreciate the support!

[Los]

FYI still have not heard back from manufacturer, will try to get an official answer by next week.

Edited February 2, 2011 by Los

[KiriK]

Thanks Los! I have several cracked plates from my stands so i'll be sending you an email with pictures soon for replacement

[cool8or]

I also have the problem with the clear tips, but it seem like only happen with model kits painted with enamels. See, actually I have 4 model kits displayed with Flightpose stands: 3 of them (VF-4, SDF-1 Cruiser and a Legioss+Tread) were painted with enamels, and in all these cases, the rubber tips stuck of them.

Even more, It's like the paint is "melted" by the rubber tips. My lastest model, the Gnerl, was painted with automotive acrylic paints, and don't have this problem in absolute. I finished the Gnerl in December, but just this weekend I took it off the stand, so I verify this theory before to know about this thread. Also, you have to consider that the Gnerl is too much heavier than all the other model kits together.

I'll take some pictures of the models affected, that way you'll can see the marks on the paint.

Ah! And I have a base cracked, too.

PD: Even with these problems, Flightpose is my favorite stand!

[Mommar]

It's too bad this is all happening now. Flightpose used to be full of praise and I really wanted to get some for my Valks. Now? No way in hell I'd attempt to order these things until I know they won't destroy my toys.

[ae_productions]

It's too bad this is all happening now. Flightpose used to be full of praise and I really wanted to get some for my Valks. Now? No way in hell I'd attempt to order these things until I know they won't destroy my toys.

They're great stands. I have a dozen or so of the original versions.

The new versions "tip issue melting paint" seems like you can take preemptive measures to prevent issues.

Such as: put a small piece of tape on the tips where they connect to the toy.

Use a clear paint seal to "seal" the tips.

If possible, don't apply the tips to a painted area. Many toys today are molded in solid colors with paint highlights.

Sounds like they do care and I bet this tip issue will be resolved come future releases.

[Mog]

Has anyone tried washing the clear tips in warm soapy water like Los suggested a page or two back?

Curious if that solved the issue or not.

[anime52k8]

honestly the "clear tips take paint off" problem is seem like a very rare, isolated problem. I've had painted parts of Yamato valks and even a DX-27 on flexi-stands with the clear tips and have no problems with paint marring. You're probably no more likely to have problems with clear tips as you where to have the old black tips leave black marks on your toys/models (i.e. very rare).

This is partly a suggestion and partly a request but I really think they should considering making a deluxe version stand where the base and top plate are made from solid pieces of acrylic instead of hollow. I've found that the hollow acrylic bases are too light when trying to pose heavier toys at odd/extreme angles, having a solid acrylic base would make it much more stable.I also think a solid top plate would help solve the cracking issues.

also, I've found that if you put a small silicone rubber or felt pad (the kind you put on the bottom of electronics and stuff so they don't scuff/slide around on tables) in the cup parts of the base, it will add a little extra friction so the arms can hold more weight without having to tighten the top plate so much.

Edited February 23, 2011 by anime52k8

[DyNo]

Time to get this topic going again.

I just pull my low vis off the flexi-stand and found this.

I've only had the low vis sitting on it for 6 months. NOT GOOD!

Edited June 7, 2011 by DyNo

[Loop]

Time to get this topic going again.

I just pull my low vis off the flexi-stand and found this.

I've only had the low vis sitting on it for 6 months. NOT GOOD!

OMG, sucks it was a low vis version 1

I am still working with Los on this very issue...... I did new uncracked base plates. I sent him pictures of what happened.

[MacrossJunkie]

Just so people can see it's not an isolated incident. I had tried reusing the clear tip stand after Carlos has given the advice to wash the tips. So I had both thoroughly cleaned them with rubbing alcohol and used liquid dish washing detergent to remove any chemicals that might still be on the surface of the clear tips. Then I set my VT-1 back on it with the tips contacting new areas. The result after a couple months was that it still melted/at through the clear coat and turned it into a gooey substance. So it seems to be the material that the tips are made of that is causing this.

You can see two different sets of marks:

Two on the bottom of the left intake.

Two on each foot. One set was from before cleaning. One was after.

Cleaning them did jack.

I got a Yamato stand and have since displayed it on that instead.

The flexidisplay stands are still okay on bare plastic, they're just damaging on paints.

This doesn't happen with the black tipped versions.

Edited June 7, 2011 by MacrossJunkie

[eugimon]

solvents + silicone is not a good idea.

[505thAirborne]

That sucks DyNo, MacrossJunkie. Such beautiful Valk's to be damaged like that. Bandai or Yamato stands from now on!!

[DyNo]

That sucks DyNo, MacrossJunkie. Such beautiful Valk's to be damaged like that. Bandai or Yamato stands from now on!!

Yep I'm done with flexi stands.

[MacrossJunkie]

solvents + silicone is not a good idea.

Meh. It wasn't like I soaked it in rubbing alcohol. I just did some wipes with it on a paper towel with a bit of rubbing alcohol. At worst, if it did any reaction, it was unnoticeable. It would have been of benefit if it actually did remove a layer. Afterwards, it was washed with liquid detergent in warm water and dried off.

From googling around, I get the impression that silicone is reactive to lacquer based products, which would likely explain the melting clear coats. I'm guessing acrylic based paints and clear coats should be fine. I mean the stands are made of acrylic and there doesn't seem to be any reaction there.

Edited June 7, 2011 by MacrossJunkie

[eugimon]

Meh. It wasn't like I soaked it in rubbing alcohol. I just did some wipes with it on a paper towel with a bit of rubbing alcohol. At worst, if it did any reaction, it was unnoticeable. It would have been of benefit if it actually did remove a layer. Afterwards, it was washed with liquid detergent in warm water and dried off.

From googling around, I get the impression that silicone is reactive to lacquer based products, which would likely explain the melting clear coats. I'm guessing acrylic based paints and clear coats should be fine. I mean the stands are made of acrylic and there doesn't seem to be any reaction there.

Rubbing alcohol is a *recommended* solvent for silicone. I used a rag with alcohol on it to help keep things clean while recaulking around the house. And the effects aren't immediate, it takes a little while for it to start melting the silicone. Just google slicone + alcohol and you'll see dozens of links with people talking about using it to dissolve silicone.

Great if it worked for you but I strongly recommend not using any sort of solvent to clean the silicone tips. A warm, damp cleaning rag is going to be the best bet for 99% of people out there wanting to clean their tips.

[DyNo]

I used a damp rag with just water to clean the tips off....... Looks like that didn't work out to well for my Low vis.

[eugimon]

Well, if the problem is that the silicone is unstable and reactive, then using a solvent on it isn't going to help and neither will just wiping it down. If the problem is that there's some sort of residue on it from the manufacturing, wiping it off should help.

I use the new stands I and I haven't seen any of these problems myself, so I can't really claim any knowledge of what's going on. But solvent + silicone is a bad idea.

[MacrossJunkie]

Well, if the problem is that the silicone is unstable and reactive, then using a solvent on it isn't going to help and neither will just wiping it down. If the problem is that there's some sort of residue on it from the manufacturing, wiping it off should help.

I use the new stands I and I haven't seen any of these problems myself, so I can't really claim any knowledge of what's going on. But solvent + silicone is a bad idea.

Unless you have been doing customizations or weathering to your valks or have one with weathering pre-applied like the low-vis VF-1A, it's doubtful you would run into this problem. The majority of most valks are bare plastic anyway.

When I tried using the stands after washing the tips, I checked after two weeks and didn't really see any marring of the finish so I thought it was good. Then after some months, I had looked again while rearranging my cabinet and the stand was pretty much glued to the valk. So it's not a fast chemical reaction, but it does eventually happen.

As I have hypothesized, I think it's just an issue with the silicone itself reacting to lacquer based paints. I haven't tried placing one of my valks coated with future to test it, but I really don't want to risk it. Plus I would have to give it a reasonable amount of time before checking, like another few months. If anyone else wants to give it a test or has already, I'd like to hear how the acrylics (or even enamel paints) fare. My guess is it should be okay, but don't hold me to it.

[UN Spacy]

How come they stooped using the black tips?

[eugimon]

How come they stooped using the black tips?

the black tips also left residue on plastic, painted or not.

[m0n5t3r]

i had this happen on my YF-19 when i lodged one of the tips between the leg and the inside of one of the leg fins. it took a tiny piece of the black paint when i removed my YF-19 from the stand. that was around 2 years ago... ever since then i only place the tips on the bare plastic parts, away from any painted or tampoed part... as if my YF-19 wasn't beat up already... now i want a new, version 2 YF-19...

Edited June 7, 2011 by m0n5t3r

[derex3592]

This thread makes me depressed that now I'm gonna have to go through and check all my mecha that are on flexi stands...including my SDF-1...uhhggg...there goes half my saturday this weekend...

[bowman]

After seeing these issues i decided not to get any flexi stands. Hopefully Flightpose can replace the tips with a better material otherwise i have to do without stands. What a shame seeing the paint stuck on the tips

[boyarque]

Since I use my flexi stands only during exhibitions, my valks have been spared......I'm taking cue from you guys and not use it for permanent display.

But I will still be buying these stands due to their flexibility and ease of handling during exhibitions and roadshows.

Edited June 8, 2011 by boyarque

[Mog]

Sucks to hear what's happenning with those silicon tips.

Personally, I've never had any issues with the old rubber ones. <knock on wood>

[boyarque]

that's what she said!

forgive me.....just could not help it.....

[ps99042]

ok this has made me decide not to buy these stands as i was actually about to buy them for my Robotech Masterpiece Alphas. Still, the paint on those are so crappy I probably wouldn't notice.

[derex3592]

ok this has made me decide not to buy these stands as i was actually about to buy them for my Robotech Masterpiece Alphas. Still, the paint on those are so crappy I probably wouldn't notice.

OK----I gotta say this. I spot checked my toys/models that are on flight pose stands. I HAVE ZERO DAMAGE on ANYTHING. Robotech Masterpiece Alphas included. FineMolds X-wing Model kit, Yamato SDF-1, Yamato 1:60 ver, 2's and 1:60 Gamlin VF-22. I don't know if it's because they are all in curio cabinets or what, but everything is fine on mine. All mine have the clear tips. Some toys have been on them for well over 6-8 months without being moved. I will say NO direct sunlight ever hits the cabinets and they are kept at 70-76 degrees year around. Just my .02.

Edited June 8, 2011 by derex3592

[MacrossJunkie]

OK----I gotta say this. I spot checked my toys/models that are on flight pose stands. I HAVE ZERO DAMAGE on ANYTHING. Robotech Masterpiece Alphas included. FineMolds X-wing Model kit, Yamato SDF-1, Yamato 1:60 ver, 2's and 1:60 Gamlin VF-22. I don't know if it's because they are all in curio cabinets or what, but everything is fine on mine. All mine have the clear tips. Some toys have been on them for well over 6-8 months without being moved. I will say NO direct sunlight ever hits the cabinets and they are kept at 70-76 degrees year around. Just my .02.

Were they contacting plastic or touching painted surfaces? If you had any that were touching painted surfaces, could you specify a few toys and where they were touching? What sort of clear coat did you use on your X-Wing model?

Just curious and I think it would be useful to know.

Edited June 8, 2011 by MacrossJunkie

[derex3592]

Were they contacting plastic or touching painted surfaces? If you had any that were touching painted surfaces, could you specify a few toys and where they were touching? What sort of clear coat did you use on your X-Wing model?

Just curious and I think it would be useful to know.

They were contacting plastic on the VF-22 for sure. As for the Alpha's I can't say for sure, they are in fighter mode, (never transformed for obvious reasons)...Also on my 1:60 ver. 2 ElintSeeker, it is sitting in fighter mode on the 3 points of the stand, wings and underside of nose. The X-Wing I coated with Testors Dullcote. The SDF-1 is in cruiser mode and it is resting on the bottom of the upper legs and the middle front part of the underside. I can provide pix later if you guys want.

[MacrossJunkie]

They were contacting plastic on the VF-22 for sure. As for the Alpha's I can't say for sure, they are in fighter mode, (never transformed for obvious reasons)...Also on my 1:60 ver. 2 ElintSeeker, it is sitting in fighter mode on the 3 points of the stand, wings and underside of nose. The X-Wing I coated with Testors Dullcote. The SDF-1 is in cruiser mode and it is resting on the bottom of the upper legs and the middle front part of the underside. I can provide pix later if you guys want.

There was no damage to your X-Wing? I used Testor's Dullcote as well on the valk in my pic above, but you can see the obvious damage the tips did to it. I wonder why.

[BlueMax]

I had the same problem with the version 2 tips reacting with the paint. This happened when I put my V2 1/60 Super VF-1A Hikaru on it. At that time I thought it was because the paint job wasn't exactly cured complete and the pressure on the silicone caused it to liquefy somewhat. Seeing the posts now, maybe not, but rather the tips reacting with teh paint.

Anyway, since have placed the tips on non painted parts and so far so good.

[m0n5t3r]

just checked mine and yeah, no problems as long as you place it on the bare plastic. the valks i've had on flexis have been on the stands for 6mos. to 1 year, although I do pick them up from time to time for dusting and cleaning. i place the tips mostly under the nosecone or on the landing gear doors, the feet and the gap between the thigh and knee cap.

[Novacaine]

Just checked mine. The only problem was with my VF-0S. I had the one post against the little bottom fin with 301 printed on it. The tip of the post sort of stuck a little but there was no damage. But it had only been on that stand in that configuration for maybe 2 weeks. I imagine if I had left it there long enough things could have been really bad. All the other posts were touching bare plastic.

I plan to keep using the stand but make sure the tips only touch bare plastic. What I saw supports the idea that there is a reaction between the tip material and paints of certain types. Washing it won't help if this is the case.

FWIW, I did just mess around with one of my stands and it's easy to pop the caps off. then you just have acrylic which shouldn't react with anything. Of course you won't get that sure grip anymore, but someone mentioned those little nubs you can buy to put under the legs of furniture to avoid scratching. Maybe just stick the small ones to the ends of the acrylic pipes?

Edited June 9, 2011 by Novacaine