Jump to content
cazzalora

Yamato VF-1A 1/60 v.2 - Broken shoulder

Recommended Posts

Yesterday, I got my new Yamato VF-1A 1/60v2. Immediately out of the box I noticed a crack in the shoulder.

What should I do? Any other person out there with the same problem? Has anybody successfully repaired the broken shoulder?

It would be really nice to substitute the broken piece with something else. A metallic piece will be great. Any idea?

I am attaching a picture of the broken shoulder:

post-5180-1244505201_thumb.jpg

I have also sent a message to HLJ, hoping the best.

Thanks for any help,

Rey

Edited by cazzalora

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Never herd any discrepancy from the 1A. The pics you attached is clearly a 1S! Which is the only one reported so far. But, you should also check in with over-drive.

Edited by Agent-GHQ

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this may be the first time someone's reported a 1A with a broken shoulder out of the box, but their have been broken shoulders in every release excluding the 1D and max releases.

if it's just a crack (as in less of a gap than pictured) then you could try applying a little super glue. no garenty it will hold but at least it will keep it together until you can get some spare parts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same issue with my Roy 1s when I got it, I went htrough overdrive and got the entire arm and shoulder assembly for 13 bucks shipped ems from japan, took a couple weeks but it was worth it. I have the 1j but honestly haven't taken it out of the box yet.

vacation2008101.jpg

I'm hoping that my tv max 1a and the vf1d don't have any issues.

vk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Never herd any discrepancy from the 1A. The pics you attached is clearly a 1S! Which is the only one reported so far. But, you should also check in with over-drive.
If you read his entire post, he said he got the image from jenius' blog. Yes there have been discrepencies with the VF-1A, more than one, the only one I know for sure of without problems are the new Max's, and the VF-1D.
no garenty it will hold but at least it will keep it together until you can get some spare parts.

It most likely won't, the glue will probably go beyond the crack to around the screw, bonding the screw to plastic, then shearing off when the hinge is turned.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i have the 1st release vf-1s roy,

i bought it as soon as i saw it in a shop.

this is already more than 6 months ago i think

and yes one shoulder was cracked out of the box.

yes, i just put super glue on it, and wiggled the shoulder until the glued dried.

been playing and transforming it almost every day for the first 2 weeks i had it.

then, the 2nd shoulder cracked. and i did the same thing.

now, more than 6 months after i bought it

the shoulders are still perfectly fine with the super glue and i've never been happier.

note that i transform and pose my toys ALOT.

my display arrangement changes practically everyday.

what i'm saying is, there's no big deal about the cracked shoulder.

just fix it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yes, i just put super glue on it, and wiggled the shoulder until the glued dried.

been playing and transforming it almost every day for the first 2 weeks i had it.

So did the glue dry around the pin, and bind the plastic to the pin? what I'm trying to figure out, is how would that prevent the hinge from cracking further?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Never herd any discrepancy from the 1A. The pics you attached is clearly a 1S! Which is the only one reported so far. But, you should also check in with over-drive.

I am attaching a picture for the Vf-1A 1/60 v.2 breakage area

post-5180-1241071914_thumb.jpg

Before doing anything I will wait for HLJ reply.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So did the glue dry around the pin, and bind the plastic to the pin? what I'm trying to figure out, is how would that prevent the hinge from cracking further?

the whole point of wiggling the shoulder while the glue dries,

is to prevent the glue from binding the plastic to the pin,

and only bind the cracked plastic.

i have had no further issues with the shoulder since then.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It won't break right away (mine still haven't) go to Overdrive and order new arms. Technically it's free except for the shipping and handling charges... Check out the thread on ordering replacement parts from overdrive here:

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=27901

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
the whole point of wiggling the shoulder while the glue dries,

is to prevent the glue from binding the plastic to the pin,

and only bind the cracked plastic.

I see. So did you file or sand down the pin before gluing?

i have had no further issues with the shoulder since then.
Glad to hear man, and thanks for the tip, I may try it this weekend.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hi man,

nope i didnt file nor sand the pin.

good luck and hope it turns out well for you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If you read his entire post, he said he got the image from jenius' blog.
As if Jenius's sig wasn't clear for you either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As if Jenius's sig wasn't clear for you either.
You're the guy that assumed the wrong thing to begin with and yes I already knew that was Jenius sig, I didn't need to see that to know because I read the OP's initial post completely before responding to him.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I am attaching a picture for the Vf-1A 1/60 v.2 breakage area

Just discovered a crack yesterday on my 1A.

Exactly the same location as yours bro.

Am really sad. Such a beautiful toy but this

spoils everything. Was planning on getting

a CF, but this incident is preventing me.

If they only made that portion lock on the

back of the chest, that portion won't be

too stressed. Yes, articulation will suffer

but that's better than having cracks.

The tightness of the ball joint at the shoulder

further aggravates the problem.

Yamato should consider hiring a a stress engineer!

These cracks are not QC related. They are due to faulty

engineering.

Edited by geepogi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry to hear that happen to your 1A...

you can check honkhet's post above about putting some glue to fix it... it can be fixed and it seems transformation and poseabilty are not affected. personally, i would sand the fat end of the pin first, but seems it can be fixed even if you don't... good luck fixing it, pre.

and BTW, in case you haven't heard yet, Yamato changed the pin for the shoulder hinge to a smaller diameter one starting with the Max 1S and 1A...

Edited by m0n5t3r

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks dre!

but do i have to remove the pins first before gluing?

can the pins be removed?

IIRC, it was not confirmed that the pins are now smaller.

many thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just noticed mine is the same... :blink: pretty dissapointing... Hopefully this glue trick will work though...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just noticed mine is the same... :blink: pretty dissapointing... Hopefully this glue trick will work though...

Your 1A is also the same or did you have one of the other types?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
You're the guy that assumed the wrong thing to begin with and yes I already knew that was Jenius sig, I didn't need to see that to know because I read the OP's initial post completely before responding to him.
According to that pic, sure! But we knew you read his post as you did with mine and others as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Your 1A is also the same or did you have one of the other types?

Just checked, it looks like it's just the 1A

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
According to that pic, sure! But we knew you read his post as you did with mine and others as well.
Uh yeah, because reading everything someone stated before making a response to them is part of using common sense, and no one knows what the hell you're getting at.
I just noticed mine is the same... blink.gif pretty dissapointing... Hopefully this glue trick will work though...

If you apply the glue soon, let us know how it turns out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Uh yeah, because reading everything someone stated before making a response to them is part of using common sense, and no one knows what the hell you're getting at.
I'm disappointed! I thought you were smarter than the use of common sense.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, I just ran to the hobby store and copped some Tamiya Cement Glue...(quick type...) also picked up the VF11 B 1/60 w/super pack which is pretty dope i might add...

But i just applied it to the crack at the shoulder, I used a paint stripper to apply it... It appears the glue filled the gap from the actual crack, and moving it while it dried prevented anything from getting stuck... Once it dried i applied some more and moved it again... doesn't seem like too big of a deal and i think it'll be fine... If anyone has any additional questions, just let me know... Looks like in my specific case it wasn't too big of a deal though... I'll probably transform it a couple times to make sure everything is ok...

Dissapointment? yes... End of the world? no...

Edited by Kid_Robot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

But i just applied it to the crack at the shoulder, I used a paint stripper to apply it... It appears the glue filled the gap from the actual crack, and moving it while it dried prevented anything from getting stuck... Once it dried i applied some more and moved it again... doesn't seem like too big of a deal and i think it'll be fine... If anyone has any additional questions, just let me know... Looks like in my specific case it wasn't too big of a deal though... I'll probably transform it a couple times to make sure everything is ok...
So for now, are the hinges fixed on yours thanks to the cement>? If so, I'll definitely give the krazy glue a try.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So for now, are the hinges fixed on yours thanks to the cement>? If so, I'll definitely give the krazy glue a try.

Yes, it would appear that everything is fixed... Good luck, and if you use a quick dry type of glue, lol don't forget to move the joints... Mine almost got stuck because i spent too much time applying it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes, it would appear that everything is fixed... Good luck, and if you use a quick dry type of glue, lol don't forget to move the joints... Mine almost got stuck because i spent too much time applying it.
Thanks for the heads up man, I appreciate it. I'll use a form of krazy glue, one of mine is purple and turns clear as it dries...if only I could find it.

BTW, when you let the glue dry, what mode was the toy in? Was it in mid-transformation, battroid, or gerwalk? Which mode would you recommend to leave it in while the glue dries?

Edited by Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the heads up man, I appreciate it. I'll use a form of krazy glue, one of mine is purple and turns clear as it dries...if only I could find it.

BTW, when you let the glue dry, what mode was the toy in? Was it in mid-transformation, battroid, or gerwalk? Which mode would you recommend to leave it in while the glue dries?

I actually had it mid transformation Gerwalk- Battroid i guess you could say; I rotated the hinge in and out for a minute applied some more glue, and rotated the joint some more...

I think whatever you're most comfortable with in terms of handling should probably work, as long as you have access to the "crack" and you can move hinge while it dries...

Here are a couple pics of exactly how i had it. if it helps...

post-11255-1241343937_thumb.jpg

post-11255-1241343975_thumb.jpg

note* I rotated both of these images before posting, but for some reason they are still rotated to the left... rotate them to the right if you're having difficulty making heads or tails of the image...

Edited by Kid_Robot

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I actually had it mid transformation Gerwalk- Battroid i guess you could say; I rotated the hinge in and out for a minute applied some more glue, and rotated the joint some more...

I think whatever you're most comfortable with in terms of handling should probably work, as long as you have access to the "crack" and you can move hinge while it dries...

Here are a couple pics of exactly how i had it. if it helps...

Thanks for the suggestion man!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes, it would appear that everything is fixed... Good luck, and if you use a quick dry type of glue, lol don't forget to move the joints... Mine almost got stuck because i spent too much time applying it.

thanks for the tip man!

so you just put the glue at the side of

the crack? no need to widen it a bit and

put it between the cracked portions?

this is great!

but it would have been better if there were

no cracks in the first place. ^_^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thanks for the tip man!

so you just put the glue at the side of

the crack? no need to widen it a bit and

put it between the cracked portions?

this is great!

but it would have been better if there were

no cracks in the first place. ^_^

I'd say widen at your own risk, or if you can get your hands on a like a really pointed glue tip to apply the glue in the crack that would work... thats what i did...

And i definitely agree that it would be better if there were no cracks in the first place... Luckily out of the the dozen or so yamato 1/60's i've bought in the last few months, this is the only one that kind of upset me... this and the YF-19, but thats a-whollllllllle-nother can o' worms...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks man!

maybe a needle dipped into the glue will work.

problem is we have to work fast lest the glue

seep near the pin and dry with the pin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is very helpful, as I'm too scared to even touch the 1J on the shelf now.

Just a quick question, the superglue used, is it the gel or the putty version?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×