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Yamato 1/60 VF-11B Thunderbolt - Thread 2


azrael

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Sheesh! I've searched high and low for a transformation video for this. As easy as I remember it being to transorming it, I followed the instructions of a video. I'm wanting to put this back into fighter mode and was wondering if anyone knows of transformation video. Otherwise he'll spend the rest of his life in battroid.

Battroid mode is definitely a nice mode to keep it in, mine has been in Battroid since I first got it out of the box. The only Valks I seem to transform are the VF-1s.

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Bah, the first time i got my hands on the 1/60 VF-11B prototype, I transformed it without instructions or advice in under 5 minutes. It's one of the easiest Valks to transform IMO.

Mind you, I do have a bit more experience than some.

Graham

Agreed, it definitely is one of the easiest valks to transform. Easier than the V2 1/60 VF-1 IMHO.

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I know it requires a bit of patience the first time, but I found the instructions pretty clear.

Just look at them in reverse to go back to the mode you started with.

Problem is the box is among other boxes and I was trying to avoid digging it out. I remember the transformation being pretty simple and straight forward. There is something with the arms that I can't remember and I don't want to chance breaking it. I think the instructions are posted somewhere here on the forums. I'll see if I can't locate them.

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IIRC, you just need to rotate the metal part of the shoulder connecting it to the fuselage. clockwise for the right arm, counter for the left. you do this before flipping up the wings from the back. you'd have to fiddle w/ them a little so they're flush w/out any gaps showing. hope this helps...

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My only problem was getting the heatshield thing to stay up in battroid mode. Mine seemed a bit loose and the lower half wants to keep sliding back down.

I have worked out that not fully closing the heat shield (just leaving a tiny gap) can sometimes help to keep it up. And then sliding the mechanism underneath the cockpit so it goes about half way on the track as a way to push the canopy outwards and provide a bit of friction against the heatshield does the trick.

Don't think that's how you are supposed to do it though... Looks like I failed to get both halfs to clamp together so that edge of the lower and upper half touch like in the manual.

err I'm guessing that's why the funny title for the thread?

Edited by 1/1 LowViz Lurker
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Finally got my VF-11B today. Great toy. I love all 3 modes. Definitely one of the tightest Battroid modes out there. The shoulder/back/wing pieces should probably lock somehow but loving it. Especially the gunpod is probably the beefiest one. VF-19 gunpod almost seems a downgrade... and the bayonet is great.

First transformation went pretty smooth and followed the instructions. I remember being afraid with my YF-19FP and watching Graham's video, but didn't need to do that with this one. I remember wrestling with my YF-21 and scratching up it's legs and the t-bar (might have been where a piece of it crack). I'm butter smooth with my VF-22 Gamlin, of course, and pretty quick with the YF-19 but just don't compare with the ease of the VF-11. I like the panels with the sliding leverl/button things. VF-1 could probably use something similar for it's side covers, maybe. I popped off one of those shoulder pad things and think I see a tiny white stress mark (not sure if it was putting it back on or in the popping off that did it). Just flew through the whole sequence again. Transforming back from Battroid to fighter was butter smooth and easy.

I kinda wish the cockpit had a detent for the default position but I really like the way the heat shields work. Far better than the 1/48 method. Now I gotta decide which mode to display. I think I'd like one more VF-11B and 2 or 3 VF-11C to round out my 1/60 collection. :D

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My only problem was getting the heatshield thing to stay up in battroid mode. Mine seemed a bit loose and the lower half wants to keep sliding back down.

I have worked out that not fully closing the heat shield (just leaving a tiny gap) can sometimes help to keep it up. And then sliding the mechanism underneath the cockpit so it goes about half way on the track as a way to push the canopy outwards and provide a bit of friction against the heatshield does the trick.

Don't think that's how you are supposed to do it though... Looks like I failed to get both halfs to clamp together so that edge of the lower and upper half touch like in the manual.

err I'm guessing that's why the funny title for the thread?

The trick is when you get the bottom half out to THEN make sure the tab on the bottom of the nose is all the way forward. It then keeps the bottom part from sliding down before you can lock the top part over it. This is where I think detents for the lever positions could be helpful.

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Oh yeah, the only part I'm disliking about the change in scale is that the VF-11 now has a bigger wingspan than my 1/60 VF-22 (and YF-21). I knew they upscaled it some but it definitely doesn't match the Compendiums values of 11.2m for the VF-11 wingspan compared to the VF-22's 15.36. I'd guess the VF-11 now has to be about 16m

Edited by Uxi
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Bah, the first time i got my hands on the 1/60 VF-11B prototype, I transformed it without instructions or advice in under 5 minutes. It's one of the easiest Valks to transform IMO.

Mind you, I do have a bit more experience than some.

Graham

Whats the big deal really who the hell uses instructions for Yammis these days? The 11 is piece of piss.

As for the heatshield that's not a design problem, just QC, the only thing that made me expend extra time to get it to stay locked.

I consider transforming a variable fighter straight from the box into all modes part of the fun, ppl who use the instructions are like peeking under the tree before christmas morning spoiling all their fun!

Edited by ruskiiVFaussie
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It's just the fear of wrecking it that's why I look at instructions.

There are some things you might miss. For example on the 1/48 people forgot to push the thing that sticks out when adding the FAST packs.

Or small features that you might might forget exist (after a long time not transforming it for ages). Like the antenna on the head of the VF-11 being able to be adjusted forward or back. I usually never touch my yamato after the first few transformations. I just leave it in one mode for a long time like it were a kit or something.

Edited by 1/1 LowViz Lurker
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Whats the big deal really who the hell uses instructions for Yammis these days? The 11 is piece of piss.

As for the heatshield that's not a design problem, just QC, the only thing that made me expend extra time to get it to stay locked.

I consider transforming a variable fighter straight from the box into all modes part of the fun, ppl who use the instructions are like peeking under the tree before christmas morning spoiling all their fun!

that's probably what somebody else around here thought right before they chunked their 21 up against the wall!! :lol::lol::lol:

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I just started playing with my 11B again last night, and i sitll think this holds up as Yamatos best Macross toy. All 3 modes are great, transformers easy, super poseable in Battroid, the armour looks great, the pilot can come out easily...Its the cream of the crop for me.

I just want to get some decent alt paint schemes. The 11C is a bit bland for me. id buy a black one, or maybe a white one with a bit of colour on it, but just that plain white with black trim...its so bland.

but a wonderful mold.

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The trick is when you get the bottom half out to THEN make sure the tab on the bottom of the nose is all the way forward. It then keeps the bottom part from sliding down before you can lock the top part over it. This is where I think detents for the lever positions could be helpful.

Ahh I finally get it now. I was playing around with it this morning and I was determined to get the heatshield to sit firmly shut this time and not fall down. Everything is fine now. I am even more happy with this toy now.

The trick I had to do:

1. put my finger on the upper half of the heatshield to ensure there is a like a tiny gap between the top edge of the the orange part, and the grey edge. This ensures the top lip is always going to be as close to meeting the bottom lip as possible. If the orange heatshield upper lip is too close to the grey edge, it's harder to get that to meet the bottom half of the heatshield.

2. Then I had to shake the lower heatshield half until it sat all the way out as far as it could go (I must have not pulled it out all the way last time - it's like a stretchy foreskin :lol: ). This is very important because many times when I thought I had pulled it out as far as it would go I realised there was like a tiny bit more it could slide. So if you don't 100% pay attention to this part going as far out as possible (not just 98.9999% forward, but 100%) you might have problems with the heatshield. I always double check to make sure this is completely out now.

3. Then finally push the little lever on the bottom so that the cockpit windsheild being pushed 'up' (ascending) would hold the heatshield halves firmly with friction. And yes, DO make sure you feel that nice 'click' when pushing the lower lever forward all the way which is the no.1 thing.

I found that if I didn't do ALL those 3 steps properly I would get problems where the lower part of the heatshield always wants to slide back down again.

Now that I figured it out I can keep the thing shut consistently. For a noob it might seem like this was a flaw of the toy but it's just one of those things you have to be patient with so all parts meet together exactly. If you are off by even a little bit, it won't work.

Edited by 1/1 LowViz Lurker
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One thing that I think should have been done is putting clicky bits for the wings like the 1/48 vf-1.

This way you can have the wings in swing back mode more easily without having to manually line them up yourself. They can click into position easier.

And what do you think of the cleaner look compared to the 1/72? Do you prefer having more panel lines or just bare surface?

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On mine, I could just take the removable cockpit out, use fingers on both end to pinch the bottom side of the shield firmly and pull it until it clicked. It was alot easier w/o the little pod in the way.

After getting the bottom half in place I could slide the cockpit back in without dislodging the bottom half and bring down the top half as normal.

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On mine, I could just take the removable cockpit out, use fingers on both end to pinch the bottom side of the shield firmly and pull it until it clicked. It was alot easier w/o the little pod in the way.

After getting the bottom half in place I could slide the cockpit back in without dislodging the bottom half and bring down the top half as normal.

That's exactly how I did it and it works perfectly.

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Why did you dismantle the thigh?

The thigh swivel on both legs was very loose. A couple coats of nail polish was all it needed though. ^_^

oddly, I've never had a Yamato flat out break (excluding my old v.1s), but I've had loose bits like this on more than half my valks so far.

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The thigh swivel on both legs was very loose. A couple coats of nail polish was all it needed though. ^_^

I have the same problem but only on the right leg, and I just fixed it after seeing your photos. I think the black disc thing is suppose to be glued to the lower part.

oddly, I've never had a Yamato flat out break (excluding my old v.1s), but I've had loose bits like this on more than half my valks so far.

Same with my YF-19 and Sv-51.

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My only real complaint on the 11B is the ballistic/arm shield and how it falls off too easy. Why couldn't they have stuck with the method they used on YF-19? That one seems very sturdy and secure yet still lets you transform without it falling off.

I'd probably add about the landing gear. Haven't tried real hard with a toothpick or anything but getting them landing gear out with just my fingers is impossible. Clearance with the gunpod also reminds me of 1/60 VF-1 v1. Line art be damned, give it a couple extra mm of length and locks so it can roll free and taxi and what not.

Edited by Uxi
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  • 9 months later...

I have still not transformed my VF-11B...

I took it out of its' box months ago...and I attached the fast packs... I took a picture of Mikuru Asahina (revoltech) looking over the instructions while sticking her butt out really sassy like.

Pete

:ph34r: PICS PLZ?!?! :ph34r:

Edited by Shaorin
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  • 2 weeks later...

Despite this being one of my favorite Valks of all time, it has taken me this long to get my hands on one. That being said, this piece does not disappoint. It's easily my favorite Valk toy and probably one of my favorite transforming toys ever.

Transformation was very close to the original 1/72 and so it was a breeze to get from fighter to Battroid. I was expecting more fiddling with the heat shield, but I got it after an attempt or two. QC on it is flawless, there wasn't even a funky mark on the plastic. Everything was smooth and pristine. I've never had any issues with Yamato QC before, but I was pretty floored by this Valk. All in all a fantastic piece and I'm stoked to finally have it as part of my collection.

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I have a question on the VF-11B's heat shield: does the upper larger piece cover the nub of the lower part? I had (foolishly) tried to pull out the smaller part of the heat shield with a pair of tweezers, and scraping off a bit of paint on the nub.

Before I try to repaint it, I was wondering if I could just cover the nub with the larger heat shield part. I tried it, but the upper part seems to jut out. Is it even possible to cover the nub withe the upper part?

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I have a question on the VF-11B's heat shield: does the upper larger piece cover the nub of the lower part? I had (foolishly) tried to pull out the smaller part of the heat shield with a pair of tweezers, and scraping off a bit of paint on the nub.

Before I try to repaint it, I was wondering if I could just cover the nub with the larger heat shield part. I tried it, but the upper part seems to jut out. Is it even possible to cover the nub withe the upper part?

No, the nub is not covered and I don't see any way to cover it with the top part. I think you'll just have to go with painting it.

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