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Official Bandai 1/60 Scale DX Toy Thread Ver.3


Graham

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Then it's time for you to expand your anime horizons and look to the other Bandai cash-cow of 2008/2009, Gundam 00 ^_^

I see. That's what I get for having not revisted the series since stopping at episode 15. I have the first season on the computer, just haven't gotten around to watching it yet.

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Man, I don't know what it is about this toy, but it doesn't seem to photograph well. Just about every pic I've seen online has been rather unflattering, to the point where I kept my Ozma and Alto sitting in their boxes for a few weeks, unsure as to whether or not I even wanted to bother with them. Well, after nearly tripping on one of the boxes last night, I decided, "what the hell" and opened the VF-25F. Fast forward a few hours later, where I'm posing Ozma and Alto like crazy, transforming them over and over... I think I'm in valk heaven. These guys are solid, sturdy and extremely fun to handle. Absolutely worth the $125 each I spent. Not one of my many Yamato figures has ever brought me this much (worry-free) joy. Honestly, in person, the chunkiness is not really noticeable to my eyes (though things like the landing gear, rubber head lasers, etc. definitely take off points). Like I said, I have yet to see a pic online that accurately coveys just how awesome these are. All you guys who hate these without handling one should at least see them in person. I'm now extremely excited for the Michael and Luca ones I preordered...and I'm almost ready to drop the ridiculous cash for the Alto Super Parts. Well, maybe.

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I would play with them, except that I'd be wearing off the paint... Thus making them unsuitable for display afterwards.

People talk about being afraid to play with the Yamatos in fear of them breaking... But I'd be afraid to play with the DXs in fear of them rubbing off the paint! Paint durability is durability too.

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Does anyone know where i can pick up a alto seems that overdrive is notg etting them timm they are reproduced and hlj only has ozma version.

Ebay! You are looking at about $175.00 shipped if your in the US. :angry: I may have to order an ozma from HLJ, want to get it in time for me b-day. B)) Now just to convice the wife to buy it for me!

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I would play with them, except that I'd be wearing off the paint... Thus making them unsuitable for display afterwards.

People talk about being afraid to play with the Yamatos in fear of them breaking... But I'd be afraid to play with the DXs in fear of them rubbing off the paint! Paint durability is durability too.

Don't worry too much about the paint rubbing off. Just enjoy the toy.

Do what I do, which is when you handle the toy, try to just hold it by the unpainted parts. This is pretty much normal anyway, as must of the areas that you will hold the toy during play or transformation are unpainted anyway.

Just be careful with the back of the hips rubbing against the swing-bars in battroid mode. This area of rubbing can be eliminated by opening the joint below the hips by one click.

I've transformed both my Alto and Ozma about a dozen times and don't have any paint wear from handling the toy.

The only paint wear I have is on the swing bar of the Ozma from the back of the hip rubbing in battroid mode, but I have since learned how to prevent that by careful positioing of the hips.

Graham

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I think even the clear coat would eventually come off. Graham's method should work though... But this is starting to foray into the 'we have to be gentle playing with it cause it's a like a yamato' territory.

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Man, I don't know what it is about this toy, but it doesn't seem to photograph well. Just about every pic I've seen online has been rather unflattering, to the point where I kept my Ozma and Alto sitting in their boxes for a few weeks, unsure as to whether or not I even wanted to bother with them. Well, after nearly tripping on one of the boxes last night, I decided, "what the hell" and opened the VF-25F. Fast forward a few hours later, where I'm posing Ozma and Alto like crazy, transforming them over and over... I think I'm in valk heaven. These guys are solid, sturdy and extremely fun to handle. Absolutely worth the $125 each I spent. Not one of my many Yamato figures has ever brought me this much (worry-free) joy. Honestly, in person, the chunkiness is not really noticeable to my eyes (though things like the landing gear, rubber head lasers, etc. definitely take off points). Like I said, I have yet to see a pic online that accurately coveys just how awesome these are. All you guys who hate these without handling one should at least see them in person. I'm now extremely excited for the Michael and Luca ones I preordered...and I'm almost ready to drop the ridiculous cash for the Alto Super Parts. Well, maybe.

I must say that the DX looks a lot better than I thought - when I see them display in the shop.

However I bought the model kit instead after all, it is only 250 Hong Kong dollar (around 32 US dollar), can't beat it!

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I think even the clear coat would eventually come off. Graham's method should work though... But this is starting to foray into the 'we have to be gentle playing with it cause it's a like a yamato' territory.

Even if it did, I still think a flat coat would do these toys wonders. But it would require almost complete disassembly to get the flat coat completely even on all pieces. Sounds like a fun project actually...

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After transforming mine a dozen times, the right shoulder of the vf-25F is starting to come loose, very loose. Have anyone tried to take the shoulder apart to tighten up the screw? I am guessing the screw is hidden behind the plate that print sms on the shoulder, but can't seem to be able to ply it out.

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I think the DX is basically impossible to take apart without damaging it further... the screw caps are all glued down. Sucks, yes.

For loose shoulder ball joint, I suggest a tiny drop of Selleys Quick Fix Supa- Glue Non-Drip Gel at the exposed joint. This version of Supa-Glue does not dry instantly; the gel gives you a few seconds (5+) of leeway during which you can 'work the joint around' to spread the hardening fluid. I did it for my badly abused Alto and the joint is back to 'normal'.

Anyway, here are a few quick snaps of my reshuffled Macross shelf. I decided I cared most about the original series/toys, AND the latest offerings from Frontier. M+ valks are represented solely by the Doyusha diecast series (too bad there's no VF-11 in the line-up). Bandai's M7 chunkies have been kept as well. The middle shelf is now dedicated to CM's excellent Patlabor series and a few interlopers from L-Gaim.

01.jpg

Regarding DX Ozma's 'neck problems'... this is the result of using the 'tilt-up' neck plate trick:

02.jpg

Looks pretty OK to me. No mods required, just some frustrating moves with the neither-here-nor-there chest plate positioning.

One more...

03.jpg

Looking forward to the rest of the Bandai DX Frontier gang.

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I think even the clear coat would eventually come off. Graham's method should work though... But this is starting to foray into the 'we have to be gentle playing with it cause it's a like a yamato' territory.

You could always clearcoat it again, as long as the clearcoat works. I'm not sure how well it will adhere to the gloss plastic though. Still, the only part of the DX that is wearing off for me is the top of the back plate for Alto, since that is about the only place to hold it in battroid mode.

Drifand: That Ozma looks great!

Crasis: After handling my Alto I'm sad that I missed the pre-order for Michael and Luca! Oh well.

The shoulder problems are probably due to some issue with the tolerances with the mould-- the left shoulder is too tight, causing the screw breakages, while the right shoulder is too loose. These problems seem to be cropping up. However, if you hold the '5-dot' shoulder piece while rotating the left arm, there should be less strain on the screw, and you need some glue or something for the right shoulder as has been mentioned before.

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I think the DX is basically impossible to take apart without damaging it further... the screw caps are all glued down. Sucks, yes.

For loose shoulder ball joint, I suggest a tiny drop of Selleys Quick Fix Supa- Glue Non-Drip Gel at the exposed joint. This version of Supa-Glue does not dry instantly; the gel gives you a few seconds (5+) of leeway during which you can 'work the joint around' to spread the hardening fluid. I did it for my badly abused Alto and the joint is back to 'normal'.

Anyway, here are a few quick snaps of my reshuffled Macross shelf. I decided I cared most about the original series/toys, AND the latest offerings from Frontier. M+ valks are represented solely by the Doyusha diecast series (too bad there's no VF-11 in the line-up). Bandai's M7 chunkies have been kept as well. The middle shelf is now dedicated to CM's excellent Patlabor series and a few interlopers from L-Gaim.

01.jpg

Regarding DX Ozma's 'neck problems'... this is the result of using the 'tilt-up' neck plate trick:

02.jpg

Looks pretty OK to me. No mods required, just some frustrating moves with the neither-here-nor-there chest plate positioning.

One more...

03.jpg

Looking forward to the rest of the Bandai DX Frontier gang.

Nice collection. The 25S looks awesome! Is there some kind of video that shows how to mamixize the neck?

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Well i ordered my VF-25S from HLJ the night before. By some miracle i so happened to be looking at my friend's computer and he had HLJ up. It was all discontinued the last time i checked. Not sure how HLJ managed to get more VF-25S but at least I can now get mine. Just waiting for them to ship it to me. I also pre-ordered the 25G and RVF-25 on HLJ but not sure if the initla pre-order allotment is closed and I'm just pre-ordering for nothing now.

Now i just need to find an Alto version. Would probably go better wth my already built 1/72 25S.

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The shoulder problems are probably due to some issue with the tolerances with the mould-- the left shoulder is too tight, causing the screw breakages, while the right shoulder is too loose. These problems seem to be cropping up. However, if you hold the '5-dot' shoulder piece while rotating the left arm, there should be less strain on the screw, and you need some glue or something for the right shoulder as has been mentioned before.

Not sure if the loose shoulder issue are as universal as it seems. As both shoulder ball joints are still evenly tight on both sides. They 'broke-in' after a few transformation and some posing, so they are not super tight like when it was brand new, but they are still very tight. The hip peg on mine still connects pretty sturdy as well. Don't have the same 'universal' issues that you guys have.

Though I do have a non clicky thigh ratchet & a loose hip metal hinge, which I did managed to fix.

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Man I'm envious of anyone who's able to play with their VF-25's till the paint peels off. I've been having a painful time with my falsely diagnosed eczema (witch ended up to be just a fungus infection) on my hands.

It's been almost 3 months now and I'm finally coming out of this extremely painful experience (with the correct medication this time). I've got my Alto (and waiting for my P.O.'ed super-pack), my MP Beta along with a bunch of other toys for a while now but I'm afraid if I opened and played with them, my skin will start to peel off... again.

Anyway, when this is all over I'll be so freakin' grateful just to be alive without pain that I might just end up buying everything... or go on a rampage.

Edited by D_Unit
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Repeat: 1 drop of Supa-Glue Non-Drip Gel in the joint, then work it around as it dries.

Yea, I'm gonna see what other options there are before resorting to super glue.

OmegaD3K: You can hold the '5 dot' shoulder piece and just work the ball joint until it loosens from wear I guess.

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Look what I got in the mail today. DX VF-25S. After a little time with the hair dryer and a longer ball joint ( thank you GGemni for the idea). You get one rocking VF-25S. Oh and to the factory worker who had dirty fingers please wear gloves next time! Had to whip off some brown finger print marks on the nose cone. Anyways look at Ozma's valk now!

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