David Hingtgen Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 99% of the "magic" in polishing a canopy back to crystal-clarity is in the sanding, not the actual polish/paste used. Quadruple-digit-grit. Frankly, almost any polish works well on clear model plastic, I often use mag-wheel polish personally... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valkyriepilot Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 Finally got my Alto custom from my friend!! Along with this li'l guy I will have to find some extra display space before I can start working on Alto Custom though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrie addict Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 actually you have to sand the seam line on the canopy with a very fine grit sanding paper, around 1200 grit, this will leave the sanded part foggy and scratched, if you put it in water, the canopy will look pretty good, you then use polishing compound, you can use the kind use on cars or hobby ones like the tamiya you just need to read the label that indicates that it's for fine scratches, when polishing this will fill the tiny gaps done by the sanding and will leave a smooth almost shiny surface with no ugly seam line, but not perfect, for that extra glass shine look, dunk in future and voila! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
regult Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 (edited) I am relatively new and unsophisticated with my snap-fit models. I completed my VF-25F a while ago, and didn't know how badly I'd do if I didn't apply any top coat over the decals, which, even with the help of Mr. Decal Setter, have achieved a rather "weathered" look with only a pair of transformations.. some have been destroyed beyond repair. I was wondering what course of action to take: 1) buy myself a new kit, when it becomes available, apply the decals carefully, clear coat with spray-can on the decaled parts, then assemble 2) disassemble the parts, change the broken decals with the stickers, and then clear coat and reassemble. It is really a pain in the butt to apply stickers, that's why I chose to go decals. wolfx, I know you went on a date, and that you already replaced some decals with stickers: now can you show us how did the sticker conform to the air intakes? Also, a question to more experienced model builders: how do stickers behave under a clear coat (spray-can...cannot afford to buy and master a dual-action airbrush really). Edited October 20, 2008 by regult Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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