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Hey! What are you working on?


Wicked Ace

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Thats some very nice weathering on that fast pack set genghis, love to see pic's of your valk sounds like you have put a lot of effort in. I'm sure when you get an airbrush you'll be a force to be reconed with :) . Post some pic's of the 1J when you get a chance.

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Hi, this is my first post here :)

Here's what I've been working on for the past week of so. I don't have an air brush. I'm using Gundam marker, pastel chalk, colour pencils and silver paint.

Also working on my VF-1J

Welcome to Macrossworld. This is looking good so far.

Skull-1, those are what I'm talking about!

Edited by Wicked Ace
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That's a great looking bird! I know what you mean about the shoulders though. I haven't touched my vf-0s since I replaced the shoulders but I transformed 1 just for kicks the other night... after transforming the 1/48 vf-1, the vf-0 just seems much more finicky...

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That's a great looking bird! I know what you mean about the shoulders though. I haven't touched my vf-0s since I replaced the shoulders but I transformed 1 just for kicks the other night... after transforming the 1/48 vf-1, the vf-0 just seems much more finicky...

I hope the shoulders on this thing hold up. The shoulder halves, socket, and ball joint have been dipped in Future acrylic. Hopefully, this at least strengthens the shoulder halves/biceps if not totally isolates the reacting materials from one another.

Shoulders aside, this is a problem:

pb080078hs6.jpg

My solution is to take some material from the surrounding areas, but not too much.

pb080076dl6.jpg

Edited by Wicked Ace
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I have to smack myself in the head. I even took pictures of this thing in Gerwalk mode before I noticed that I shot the arms in the wrong color. <_< The lightest shade gray color I used is Testors brand "Light Aircraft Gray," which, I am out of (had this color for years before I used it). Here's where the aggravation begins -- I go to my favorite hobby (model kit) shop only to find out that it is out of business. :angry: This is not a short drive for me. I get on the internet and locate another hobby shop within reasonable distance to me. On my lunch break, I spend 45 minutes, round trip, only to be told that "Light Aircraft Gray" has been discontinued and may have changed names (and ID numbers). :angry: :angry:

Well, I spot Testors brand 1933 "Camouflage Gray" on the shelf, and this looks very much like the gray I used (of course, I didn't have the battroid leg with me to compare. . . ). The helpful gentleman at the hobby shop suggests, "Why don't you just change from 'Light Aircraft Gray' to another shade." LOL. I AM NOT ABOUT TO STRIP OFF THE IRREPLACEABLE DECALS I'VE APPLIED AND TRY TO GET THE LUCKY RATTLE-CAN FADE I MANAGED THE FIRST TIME just because Testors corporation has changed the name and number of the shade I used. :)

Anyway, "Camouflage Gray" works for me, so now that the arms are the correct color, here's a final round of oil wash:

pb080080za5.jpg

edit: If anyone knows for fact that Testors brand "Light Aircraft Gray" has not been discontinued (and that this hobby shop probably just told me this because it didn't have it), then please do not let me know this for my sanity's sake. :D

Edited by Wicked Ace
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Looking good! Irreplacable decals? Am I the only one looking at getting into printing them then? Really need to think on how to secure the cash to buy the rig... preferably without taking pre-orders.

Maybe "irreplaceable" is a little exaggeration. I do know that some of the decals I used are from discontinued decal sheets.

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Testors still lists light Aircraft Grey, order it direct if you have to: http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1367 Though most any online shop that sells Testors should have it, it's not from one of their hard-to-find lines like Marine Acrylics...

Personally, I've never heard of Testors discontinuing a color. Renaming, once or twice. That particular color's been a staple of theirs for years.

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Testors still lists light Aircraft Grey, order it direct if you have to: http://www.testors.com/catalog_item.asp?itemNbr=1367

Personally, I've never heard of Testors discontinuing a color. Renaming, once or twice. That color's been a staple of theirs for years.

Also, camoflage grey cannot be a match, that's too light, and it's a US color to boot. (Light Aircraft grey is a UK color, it's the belly color of the Tornado and Typhoon)

It's possible I recall the color name wrong, but I'm fairly sure I recall it right. Camouflage gray isn't a perfect match, but with all the dirtying up, it's not an issue.

pb090110pg5.jpg

Edited by Wicked Ace
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perfect white done only

I might be a sick crazy head but I sand a re did some part due some unnoticeable dust marking due to the airspray apply

:wacko:

the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part

I want to play with it dammage free !!

a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol

it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! :ph34r:

for the blue part I might have found a good spray maybe

more news later

dsc02609aa9.jpg

dsc02610lv5.jpg

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I have an INSANELY critical eye when it comes to "shades of grey matching". 99.9% of the world may say two colors match, and I'll say "no, the wings are a slightly warmer shade of grey than the belly". It comes up in aircraft modeling forums I go to. :)

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LOL @ David Hingtgen. I know plenty of people like you, when it comes to color. Luckily for me, my project isn't automotive paint. :)Close enough works for me on a weather beaten combat aircraft. Here's a fun game to play: how many different aircraft grays do you see in the pics I've posted. Note to other members: David Hingtgen is our forum's reigning champ when it comes to "Name Those Colors."

the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part

I want to play with it dammage free !!

a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol

it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! :ph34r:

I'm with you on the TOY emphasis. I don't know if you've addressed this area, or not, but the back of the battroid shoulder is prone to minor paint scraping (the bottom black colored part of the shoulder).

p717000702qx9.jpg

Edited by Wicked Ace
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Hi again. Finally got my modem working.

I have finally finish doing up the VF-1J and the Striker parts. My dial-up modem is wayyy tooo slllowww.

I bore shallow holes on the head machine guns so that they look like well... machine guns :rolleyes:

1headmachinegunsya7.th.jpg

Will load in more pics when I can get faster connection!

Happy Lunar New Year to all at MacrossWorld!

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perfect white done only

I might be a sick crazy head but I sand a re did some part due some unnoticeable dust marking due to the airspray apply

:wacko:

the knees have been sanded a bit to avoid paint dammage when moving the part

I want to play with it dammage free !!

a custom should be 1OO % transfomable if not go for hasegawa model lol

it a macross toy or it is not !!!!! :ph34r:

for the blue part I might have found a good spray maybe

more news later

dsc02609aa9.jpg

dsc02610lv5.jpg

Will you be filling in the seam lines? Also so a clear coat would help prevent major paint scratches.

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the small blue lines are going to be a pain to do <_<

I thought you had a plan already -- it's going to be a real pain without the Super Nove scheme decals.

Ghostkiller, have fun with the pin striping that goes with the Super Nova scheme.

:D

edit: I am as anxious as everyone else to see this blue Super Nova scheme. Keep the progress pics coming.

Edited by Wicked Ace
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Pin-striping with paint is a lost art.

A good trick for long fine stripes is to put two blades into your knife, with a spacer between them to spread them apart. Use a good-edged steel ruler and very little sideways pressure and you can cut a very thin strip of masking tape. Still need to be careful with applying it, but I've seen this trick used for pinstriping trousers on large scale figures. Looks like a good method, but have yet to try it myself.

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A good trick for long fine stripes is to put two blades into your knife, with a spacer between them to spread them apart. Use a good-edged steel ruler and very little sideways pressure and you can cut a very thin strip of masking tape. Still need to be careful with applying it, but I've seen this trick used for pinstriping trousers on large scale figures. Looks like a good method, but have yet to try it myself.

This is why I love threads like this.

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even with tamiya tape the line is not perfectly done IMO

should I double tape then to get correct lines

??? :ph34r:

You can tell on the edge that the blue is siting a little bit higher

I may have to gentle sand with wet sandpaper to even the paint I think

Maybe my blue is to thick ...............

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