Yamato 1/60 scale YF-19 Fix/Modification Thread

[cyde01]

to be honest i always thought the nose looked like it was pointing up as well..

[Gatillero PR]

As yoy can see I can't customize really good so can anyone help me finish this mod???

[UN Spacy]

ANYONE have a fix for the loose wing roots?

I have one is tight.....the other is not.

I'd like both of them to sit a little higher when in Battroid Mode.

[myk]

I found that once you relieve the tension on the shoulders the rear wing root tabs go in very tightly. From my visual inspection, the shoulders were crammed too tightly inbetween the wingroot and the rear calf causing it not only to pop up but also the wingroot (on mine it was both sides but especially the right side) to pop out. Since my shoulders were modified to be slightly thinner, you may want to look into sanding down part of the wing root very lightly that is closest to the outside of the shoulder to see if it relieves tension.

I hope this relates to your problem...

Edited February 15, 2007 by myk

[Kicker773]

Since i was on spring break, i decided that today i would dedicate it to decaling up a YF19. I did the modifications that a few of you already suggested (i.e. shoulders, landing gear, and neck cover), but i also managed to do a few tweeks here and there. I actually didn't like the grey thing going on so i painted it over with flat black. (like the feet, shoulder vents, neck, neck palte, guns on the head, and a few other things. Thanks to takatoys for the decals.. i wish he could modify my wings =(

Feet:

Neck:

Neck plate and guns on the head:

Guns on the chest:

Overall with takatoys decals:

Didnt' take the time to make everything tight and dandy transformation so one of the shoulders is sticking out. I was just too tired to do anything.. cutting decals and applying them takes soo much time..

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Great work! Nice job!

[Lonewolf]

Great job Kicker.

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Kicker... I just realized that your YF-19's Head Laser is in backwards? Was that deliberate?

Edited March 13, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[soze]

Ok, I haven't seen anyone post this type of fix for the obnoxiously overly-tight canopy neck yet. Most of the fixes I've seen involved sanding down those 2 notches that lock onto the hinge. This fix doesn't require modifying those 2 notches at all.

Basically take out the 2 gray hinges and snip the notch to make it bigger. After modifying hinges... lightly glue and screw back into place (WITH THE LEVER BAR... or else you won't be able to put it in later.)

Here are my pictures for the fix as well as the highlight of the problem.

Edited March 14, 2007 by soze

[Icenine]

Anyone making a recast of the two gray pieces of plastic that the screw holds on the neck? I am willing to buy it.

[Sakura Shinguji]

Has anyone ever have a problem with the Battroid mode shoulder tab? The right shoulder tab falls off very easy just like in Graham Fighter->Battroid video.

Although I did a lot of filing afterwards, my grey tabs did have the stress marks out of the box. I used the soze method so I am okay. It also appears that the grey tabs are not even in such a way that the lever bar can wobble when transforming. Does that sound good at all? I am guessing that since it wobbles, there is absolutely no pull on the lever bar. Also, out of curiousity, I did not glue the grey tabs as soze said. Is there a reason for the glue in the first place?

Just like Icenine, I would feel better if my grey tabs were metal and holds the canopy(?) nicely without wobbling, so I, too, am willing to pay for metal grey tabs if the price is okay!

Thanks in advance!

Edited April 3, 2007 by Sakura Shinguji

[takatoys]

Has anyone ever have a problem with the Battroid mode shoulder tab? The right shoulder tab falls off very easy just like in Graham Fighter->Battroid video.

I think I had the same problem. I bought my second YF-19 and the right shoulder was loose. It did not hold on angle and the shoulder flap was always falling off. I used a hair drier and heat both sides of the shoulder. Then I picked up a towel (to avoid burning my fingers) and squeezed both sides until I saw it was enough compression.

Now the shoulder flap doesn't fall off and the shoulder holds well on angle.

[promethuem5]

I just threw a big drop of clear nail polish in both groves on the right shoulder that the flap sits in... works fine now.

[DyNo]

Well after seeing all the cracked YF-19 neck hinge I decided to make my own recast of them..

[attachmentid=41809]

[attachmentid=41810]

Updated= http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=22213

Edited April 9, 2007 by DyNo

[soze]

Has anyone ever have a problem with the Battroid mode shoulder tab? The right shoulder tab falls off very easy just like in Graham Fighter->Battroid video.

Although I did a lot of filing afterwards, my grey tabs did have the stress marks out of the box. I used the soze method so I am okay. It also appears that the grey tabs are not even in such a way that the lever bar can wobble when transforming. Does that sound good at all? I am guessing that since it wobbles, there is absolutely no pull on the lever bar. Also, out of curiousity, I did not glue the grey tabs as soze said. Is there a reason for the glue in the first place?

Just like Icenine, I would feel better if my grey tabs were metal and holds the canopy(?) nicely without wobbling, so I, too, am willing to pay for metal grey tabs if the price is okay!

Thanks in advance!

Gluing the hinge is to reinforce it from flexing during transformation. Glue the sides.

[Roy's Blues]

ANYONE have a fix for the loose wing roots?

I have one is tight.....the other is not.

I'd like both of them to sit a little higher when in Battroid Mode.

I fixed this last night by taking of the legs.

By unscrewing the only screw in the upper hip and pulling the leg off.

There is a screw that holds the wing on, and it's a little hard to get at. Once you unscrew that, the wing comes off.

Break out some clear nail polish and give the hole and knob a lite coat. After they are dry, reassemble.

While you are at it, you might as well use the same procedure on the hips.

Edited May 20, 2007 by Roy's Blues

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

So I transformed my valk today like once since the past two months and decided to check the neck. I was already totally aware of the issues with the YF-19 and I recall there being some white stress marks on the hinges, but never a crack. I wasn't too surprised when there was a small hairline and wondered if those grey pieces had a shelf life... lol. Okay, so I decided to take the measures to fixing it with some glue or expoy before it got worse (I unscrewed them and they popped off easily and noticed that they used some sort of glue, but whatever it was it didn't really do the job):

[attachmentid=43265]

Then there was something else I noticed. When both pieces were lined up next to each other there was this significant difference between the groove of both hinges:

[attachmentid=43260]

Here it is again in another angle:

[attachmentid=43261]

Did anyone ever have this problem? or if it exists on the majority did anyone notice it? Blah... so I took the dremel to it (similar to soze's fix):

[attachmentid=43262]

I think I took off a little more than I wanted, but hopefully I shouldn't have to remod it again. I just have to go out to get a tube of two part clear epoxy tomorrow cause I can't seem to find the current one in my room.

BTW... When I first got the valk back in late January early February I recall me... (yes me, not yamato; but hell it was their fault anyway... just keep reading) creating this nasty stress mark on the front fuselage right where the joint detaches into the battroid mode:

[attachmentid=43264]

I just thought damn... I might've been rough, but I actually wasn't. After disassembling the front fuselage and its hinges I found this culprit:

[attachmentid=43263]

It was an excess drop (or run) of about 1mm (high) of glue that found its way into the groove of the hinge. I pull out the tamiya round chisel and picked away at it:

[attachmentid=43266]

In my conclusion the possible reasons why that hinge side (the left) obtained a hairline crack and why that same side (left) of the front fuselage stressed upon my first transformation was not only because of the groove in the hinge joint being filled with excess glue, but also from the grey piece which was significantly different from the other.

I guess I'll just update my post next time after I get the two part epoxy, let it settle and see how it holds up.

Edited June 27, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[DyNo]

About the difference between the hinge grooves, I did the same thing with one of my recast hinge. I took a dremel and matched it to the other one. What I ended up with was to much play in the neck, in fighter mode the neck wouldn't lock up tight to the fuselage.

Edited June 27, 2007 by DyNo

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Aww damn... sucks to hear that. I still have to run out to get the epoxy to re-enforce the hairline. I'll try mounting it up later on and let you know how it goes. If not then looks like you got yourself another custy for the hinge recasts. Hopefully you still have some. XD

Max

I'll update later.

Small update...

I just put the hinge pieces back in without the re-enforcement of the epoxy (just yet), so I can test fit it and here are the results:

[attachmentid=43279][attachmentid=43278][attachmentid=43277]

As you can see the front fuselage of the plane isn't as flush as it once was and there is very little play that you spoke of DyNo (well in this case). IMO, the transformation process is simpler and less stressing to the hinges.

I guess if I actually took just a bit more off with the dremel (even half a mm) I would've ended up with a case similar to the one that DyNo spoke of. Where the front fuselage (neck) would not lock up with the rest of the fuselage.

In this case it does lock up... which is some good progress. I'll update some more later.

***UPDATE***

After a few transformations it seems to be holding up pretty well. -=]

Edited July 4, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Okay... First off credit goes to eugimon for putting the idea in my head (or that I stole).

The rectangular peg on the shield that attaches to the right arm in fighter mode is about seven (7) and 1 1/2 mm in dimension.

The shell port on the gun pod is about five (5) and just barely 1 1/2 mm in dimension.

I took my Hasegawa Carving Knife U (http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTT-17) and chiseled about two (2) mm off the rectangular peg on the shield via the top end of the shield. This can also be done with an exacto knife as well, but the plastic is abs and is quite strong.

You can take the two (2) mm off the bottom end of the shield instead of the top. I chose to take it off the top because it allows the gunpod to sit more behind the shield. There maybe an arm positioning issue (in fighter mode) if you completely take off the two (2) mm off the rectangular peg. I did this at first but then realized I could've just taken off half because the entire rectangular peg would not fit into the gunpods shell port. I fixed that problem by adding some five (5) minute epoxy and molding it to the existing rectangular shape.

I also took a file and thinned out the rectangular peg on the shield because I found it a bit difficult to get the right arm off when transforming it from fighter to gerwalk or battroid mode. This also helped with attaching the gunpod to the shield via the shell port (reducing any tension on the gunpod that may be produced from fitting).

I also used the Hasegawa Carving Knife U to help with the landing gear issue instead of disassembling the leg. I tightened the hip by disassembling the grey fixtures that are attached to the ball joint and after cleaning the lower half I triple layered it in Future floor finish. As well as using the five (5) minute epoxy to try solving the wing over swing issue, but to no avail I would have to take that idea back to the drawing board.

As for panel lines I used small paint brush and a mixture of Future floor finish, Tamiya Smoke (X-19), a little bit of Chaos Black (citadel), Tamiya thinner and just a little bit of water. Any excess paint around the panel lines was removed lightly and carefully with alcohol (in the pics I did not get to clean up all panel lines with the alcohol... WIP).

***EDIT***

I apologize for all the excess stuff that ended up in the shots. My space is quite limited and my room is completely cluttered.

Edited July 17, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[UN Spacy]

Fellas. I'm in the need of replacement screws b/c one of mine were stripped pretty badly.

Any idea where's the best place to get em?

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

Not sure which screw on the 19 you stripped, but...

You can try these links... never used any of them. Just googled "screws phillips" and these came up on the rhs.

http://fairwayfasteners.com/category.asp?id=4

http://www.mcfeelys.com/find-a-fastener.as...CFSBMGgodPEFqLQ

http://www.boltdepot.com/Catalog.aspx?wt.s...c_id=broadbolts

Edited July 27, 2007 by PsYcHoDyNaMiX

[UN Spacy]

THX for the links psycodynamix!

Another question......does anyone have a suggestion on how to keep the wing root screws tight?

They're always loose after a few transformations into Battroid.

Everytime I have to loosen the leg screw (which is the stripped screw) to get at the wing root screw to retighten. This sucks.

[Mechamaniac]

Takatoys, can you fix or repost your images from this thread? They were awesome and very valuable to those following the mods you made, and your custom stickers as well.

Thanks!

[David Hingtgen]

Seconding that. Anyone seen Takatoys lately? All his images were linked direct from his account at mac.com and it's closed---no modification images, and no pics of his sticker sheets to order either.

[MangledMess]

Ah, found this thread.

Does anyone know what type of glue that's best used on cracks in ABS plastic? I've stated this in another thread about the left inner bicep of the arm showing nasty cracks, and trying to save it. Any suggestions?

[David Hingtgen]

Plastruct makes glue specifically for ABS. However I find it to still be weaker than say, a styrene-to-styrene bond that styrene glues produce. But it's better than using standard model glues, as they usually have little to no effect on ABS. You can find Plastructs glues at most hobby shops--they make several, just look for the one that's mainly for ABS (orange label I think). Other option would be super glues etc.

[MangledMess]

Plastruct makes glue specifically for ABS. However I find it to still be weaker than say, a styrene-to-styrene bond that styrene glues produce. But it's better than using standard model glues, as they usually have little to no effect on ABS. You can find Plastructs glues at most hobby shops--they make several, just look for the one that's mainly for ABS (orange label I think). Other option would be super glues etc.

Hmm, I had some bad experience using super glue on a F-14 model once... I'll check out that plastruct.

Is it safe for me to open up the shoulder and the sliding bicep? The crack is near where I slide down the thing...

[Sumdumgai]

Does anyone know how to tighten up the swivel joints in the legs above the knees? My YF-19's left swivel joint is really loose, and it really annoys me. The right leg is nice and tight. I tried tightening the screw above that joint but it did nothing.

[PsYcHoDyNaMiX]

I have the same prob on my YF-19, but on the right instead of the left. You can try using some nail poslish to close up the gap or a thin layer of something else (glue, epoxy).

[Sumdumgai]

I thought I might have to do that, thanks for the tip PsYcHoDyNaMix.

[Lonely Soldier Boy]

Hi guys! I posted this mod as a new tread, then I saw this pinned tread about the 19, so here's the link for the locking chest mod I made for Gerwalk mode. Now my Gerwalk mode feels rock solid, I love that.

Plaese feel free to make any questions.

Link: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=24162

[Wicked Ace]

Hi guys! I posted this mod as a new tread, then I saw this pinned tread about the 19, so here's the link for the locking chest mod I made for Gerwalk mode. Now my Gerwalk mode feels rock solid, I love that.

Plaese feel free to make any questions.

Link: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=24162

Thanks for the how-to. Although the non-locking chest section hasn't annoyed me nearly as much as other members, I'll probably perform your mod.

[whitestar]

Thought I would de-lurk for a while to post a question. I finally bought a YF-19 with fast pack and was disappointed to find out that the shoulders are loose. As far as I can tell, the shoulder "pads" are glued together, so there's no easy way for me to get to the shoulder joints to apply some form of glue or clear nail polish. The arms are just a hot, floppy mess. It can't raise its arms at the shoulder joint to any degree. I read and re-read this thread and did not find anything that could help me.

Thanks!

[Mowe]

Have you slide the "round" shoulder cap to lock the shoulder pin joint? I made the same mistake when I first got my YF-19, until Kensai point it out to me. Apart from the first issue, to me, the YF-19 is fairly robust.

Thought I would de-lurk for a while to post a question. I finally bought a YF-19 with fast pack and was disappointed to find out that the shoulders are loose. As far as I can tell, the shoulder "pads" are glued together, so there's no easy way for me to get to the shoulder joints to apply some form of glue or clear nail polish. The arms are just a hot, floppy mess. It can't raise its arms at the shoulder joint to any degree. I read and re-read this thread and did not find anything that could help me.

Thanks!

Edited April 29, 2008 by Mowe