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6 Foot Long Daedalus Scratch Build Up

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Where do you get the Isopropyl Alchohol?  I can't find a good source of it in the UK. 

I know in the US you can get it in pharmacies but they don't sell it in Boots (otherwise it would overtake Special Brew as the tramps favorite).

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over here in the US, we also call it 'rubbing alcohol', and you REALLY don't want to drink it! :o it's definitely not the same kind of alcohol that some of us imbibe in.

Edited by rotorhead

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Olivers: I checked out Boots too since it is commonly sold at "chemists" (drug stores) in the U.S. They told me to check out an office supply/stationary store. It is used for cleaning toner from copiers. I'd go that route. An office machine maintainer may have some. Maplin has it too:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Free_UK_Delivery/I...cohol_28994.htm

Mephistopheles: I don't think there'd be enough styrene in the world! :D

Rotorhead is right about isopropyl, it WILL cause blindness and other severe bodily harm. :(

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Thanks for that, I will check out the Maplins and Stapells and see what they have.

Will cause blindness, just like Tennants Super.

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I know in the US you can get it in pharmacies
over here in the US, we also call it 'rubbing alcohol',
Olivers: I checked out Boots too since it is commonly sold at "chemists" (drug stores) in the U.S. They told me to check out an office supply/stationary store. It is used for cleaning toner from copiers. I'd go that route.

The stuff you buy at the Drug Store that most N.Americans call Rubbing Alchohol is indeed Isopropyl Alchohol (Isopropanol) but it is rarely sold in concentrations higher than 40%. I don't think that is strong enough to do the job of thinning the body filler, that is why I specified Industrial Iso-Alchohol, it is much stronger (and thus more dangerous - if using try not to get it on your skin, as it will be absorbed through your pours - there is a reason hospitals have cut back on it's use!- and this is not a good thing) and it can be found in concentrations as high as 99%.

Now after saying all that I'm no longer sure it was Iso-Alchohol that was used to thin the stuff, but give it a go anywho. It was either Iso-Alchohol, laquer thinner, or Gun Wash not sure.

Sorry :unsure:

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Guest Bromgrev

I used to use acetone, which I would definitely not recommend now! :o

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Did the acetone thin the body filler? Why would you not use it now, if it worked? (Sorry MT I know this is OT but I'm curious)

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chas, in the states, one can easily find 'rubbing alcohol' up to 90% concentration, even in the local grocery stores. 40% is the most common, but nearly everywhere i've looked, the 90% was on the shelf right next to the 40% . i used to clean my airbrushes with a 50/50 mix of windex (blue ammonia glass cleaner) and rubbing alcohol. that being said, i've never tried to thin down body filler with it.

edit: to stay at least a tick on topic, mechtech.... that is one amazing job you are doing! i know i'd never have the time nor the patience to finish such a project. my hat is off to you, sir!

Edited by rotorhead

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Wow! I've only ever looked in Canada (where I used to live) and could not find anything higher than 70% in retail. Anyway if the acetone worked as a thinner then I think it was probably the Gunwash that I've seen used as Acetone is an ingredient in most Gunwash solutions.

Yeah great work so far MT. Do you have any 1/200 scale mechs you could place on it for the next set of Photos? That'd be cool to see.

Edited by Chas

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Hey guys, just finished cutting the stabilizers and thought I'd take a break. The house is cooling down and the children are in bed...phew.

Chas and rotorhead, no sweat on the chemical stuff. I won't get that far untill all hardware and lower hull parts are completed. I'm curious too! ;)

Thanks for the compliment guys. I'll pose a destroid with the hull in my next photos. It'll also help me remember why the heck I started this thing!

Back to the stabilizers! - MT

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I`ll Check where we get it from at work ( I think its eaither RS or CPC) both do mail order and its easy to set up an account/membership if you need. You could also try an automotive paint suppliers the one near me sells it in anything from 500ml to 1000 litres.

All this furious building on the MW site at the mo has got me all a building quiver. Paint and filler everywhere but nothing to show yet.

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great job is an understatement!

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Thanks Thor. I'm glad we're getting cooler weather so I can get going on some hull work.

I just got the batteries and motors today. The batteries are 6 volt 12 amp instead of the advertised 10 amp - bonus! The motors are larger then mentioned in the catalog too, but hey, there's room! - MT

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The motors are larger then mentioned in the catalog too, but hey, there's room! - MT

And How! I'd hate to see the size of the motor that is too Big for this thing :blink:

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Guest Bromgrev
Did the acetone thin the body filler?
Like a charm.
Why would you not use it now, if it worked? (Sorry MT I know this is OT but I'm curious)

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It's actually quite nasty stuff, unhealthy fumes and it's absorbed through your skin and accumulates in your body. Used a lot of it at work in the old days, but Health & Safety put a stop to that a few years ago. It also destroys any kind of plastic/rubber/latex glove in no time at all.

Apparently the nice smell of cut grass is due to the release of acetone ... :blink:

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Well If the Acetone worked as a thinner then I would suggest using a generic off the shelf Gunwash to thin the body filler as they usually have some acetone as an ingredient. (in the 1000ppm range)

As far as gloves & protective ware: I would suggest that anyone using any chemicals stonger than Easy-Off oven cleaner invest in a proper respirator, and as far as gloves go, for slovents your best bet is a good pair of nitrile gloves check out this link: link

any of their nitrile gloves should work, or if you want to be sure the Power Knight.

Hey MT any idea how many hours you've put in on this so far?

Edited by Chas

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OK, so in a pinch, rubb grass on your body filler to safely thin it down? :lol: I knew Acetone was a surficant, but I didn't know it builds up in your body. I may not have to go buy some when I run out. :D

I keep a can of Laquer Thinner handy too, that should break it down also. It's strong, but I use it in moderation and ventilation. I had to get a respirator just because of the quantity of glue I was using. Opening windows in the dead of winter is highly unpopular with the family.

Chas, I have no real accurate count on building hours, but I started Jan 24th and work on it an average of an hour or two a night. Some weekends about four hours. Don't get started on money... :o

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I don't know if it's not a bit late, but in the UK I get my isopropyl alcohol from Lloyds - the chemist with the stylised mortar-and-pestle logo. IIRC it was about £4 for half a litre.

To be honest, though, I would expect them to sell it anywhere they dispense prescriptions, I think it's commonly used for cleaning wounds and so on. I've bought it in at least two places, you just have to ask the staff behind the counter.

(I've never actually got all the way through one of those half-litre bottles, either; one I lost, one I knocked over... :/)

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I don't know if it's not a bit late, but in the UK I get my isopropyl alcohol from Lloyds - the chemist with the stylised mortar-and-pestle logo. IIRC it was about £4 for half a litre.

To be honest, though, I would expect them to sell it anywhere they dispense prescriptions, I think it's commonly used for cleaning wounds and so on. I've bought it in at least two places, you just have to ask the staff behind the counter.

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Actually they can't exactly use it unless it is at a concentration of around 70%...anything above that is quite detrimental and not really antimicrobial. At my pharmacy we have 100%, but we always use it to dilute.

It is commonly used in compounding medications, which is a rare thing nowadays (I don't know how it is in the UK, but in Australia we get most in the way of creams, ointments and lozenges).

Other places that have 100% concentration (if you really need it) are hospitals and laboratories (particularly those involved in biological sciences such as plants, microbiology, molecular biology, physiology, human biology and biochemistry). Maybe ask if you have a friend in one of those areas.

Edited by kensei

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MechTech and Sar, thansk for that. I checked out Maplins at the weekend and they wanted £10 for a litre which I thought was a bit too expensive. I looked in Stapels but no joy. I will check out Lloyds pharmacy in the next day or so, there is one round the corner which is good.

I know what you mean about modelling in winter, I do loads in my shed and you can't work when it is too cold or too warm. It leaves you a few months of the year. And this year we had the humidity a few weeks ago too.

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MechTech and Sar, thansk for that.  I checked out Maplins at the weekend and they wanted £10 for a litre which I thought was a bit too expensive.  I looked in Stapels but no joy.  I will check out Lloyds pharmacy in the next day or so, there is one round the corner which is good.

I know what you mean about modelling in winter, I do loads in my shed and you can't work when it is too cold or too warm.  It leaves you a few months of the year.  And this year we had the humidity a few weeks ago too.

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Yeah thats the curse of working in the U.K Short unpredictable summers and damp winters. the only dead cert is you should never book your U.K holiday when Wimbledon is on as your definatly gonna get wet as it always rains for the Tennis in the U.K

I think there is a problem selling Iso in the U.K in concentrations above 70%.

My Mum used to be able to get 100% from the Hospital (she worked there) but We never managed to finnish a bottle as it would evaporate, so you`d always end up with an empty bottle because someone didnt do the cap up tight. 100% is pridy good at catching fire too.

The Acetone thing is correct its a bio chemical extracted from oil and other nasties, And children what oil made from ?!

Celulose is also a nice plant extract it smells of pear drops ( why do all nasty chemicals smell so nice). There used to be a small car restoration garage round the corner from my house as kids we all used to hang round the extractor fans on the paint shop coz it smelled nice. I think we all have brain damage now though. :blink::blink::blink::rolleyes:

MT that extra couple of amps should give you a bit more power reserve, unless your larger motors are also larger on their power demands.

Edited by big F

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Hey guys, you all make me wish I remembered more from my high school chemistry class. Problem is all the chemicals I've used since then! :wacko:

Here's samples from what I've done so far:

post-2518-1152568877_thumb.jpg post-2518-1152568929_thumb.jpg post-2518-1152568987_thumb.jpg

Drilling the stab's Stab assembly parts Sample parts layout

I glued all the sheets together with super glue (a small bit) and pasted my printed blue print on them for cutting out. The one photo shows my make shift hand drill press for drilling pilot holes. The stabilizer assembly parts are shown loosley fit together and deployed. The "L" springs can be seen sticking out on the posts. I now have to make up the catches and solenoids to catch and release the stabilizer fins.

The above shot shows the batteries and motors just stuck in there for an idea of size. Note the 1/200 armored VF-1J in the middle for size comparison (as requested).

The motors will actually be in pods at the stern below the overhang (see side photos posted earlier for view). The motors are about "700-720" size. The average RC car uses a 540 size. That's it for now. I gotta get to bed. - MT

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Hey guys, you all make me wish I remembered more from my high school chemistry class.  Problem is all the chemicals I've used since then! :wacko:

Here's samples from what I've done so far:

post-2518-1152568877_thumb.jpg  post-2518-1152568929_thumb.jpg post-2518-1152568987_thumb.jpg

Drilling the stab's          Stab assembly parts    Sample parts layout

I glued all the sheets together with super glue (a small bit) and pasted my printed blue print on them for cutting out.  The one photo shows my make shift hand drill press for drilling pilot holes.  The stabilizer assembly parts are shown loosley fit together and deployed.  The "L" springs can be seen sticking out on the posts.  I now have to make up the catches and solenoids to catch and release the stabilizer fins.

The above shot shows the batteries and motors just stuck in there for an idea of size.  Note the 1/200 armored VF-1J in the middle for size comparison (as requested).

The motors will actually be in pods at the stern below the overhang (see side photos posted earlier for view).  The motors are about "700-720" size.  The average RC car uses a 540 size.  That's it for now.  I gotta get to bed. - MT

414951[/snapback]

Its only 2pm...?

Its turning out nice MechTech. Take your time, and do not rush through this, more time equals better results.

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Well Thats something I should do to my engineers square. Very usefull.

Nice craftsmanship there MT.

Oh and theres an ant on one of your pictures, Oh no my mistake it`s an VF1 :p

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Dean - Thanks for the advice. I will take my time. I'm going for both accuracy and functionality. By the way, I'm in England, so yes, 2:00. :)

Hey Big F - I got some old bearings from an RC car and axle and found brass tubes for it and the shaft to fit into. Plus an old pinvise. The next tool I get will be a drill press! The ant will look even smaller when the top section (which is bigger) goes on. Good thing I didn't have any food laying around. :lol: - MT

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I`d love the space to have all those tools in a shop. As it is i have the building space but its all taken up by the Bikes and car, and garden stuff.

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As always, it's a wonderfull job you're making ;) can't wait to see the upper half structure :D

Edited by isamu_dyson

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Sorry BigF, I can relate. I used to have the laundry room. I actually talked my wife into using a corner of our living room at our last house. I kept my stuff in a closet. That way she was less of a "hobby widow" And plus it was TOO hot outside or too cold most of the time! Maybe you can do the same? Our weather here just varies too much.

Thanks Isamu. I'm hoping to finish by Christmas, but we'll see how the engineering part goes. It's not like building a kit, that's for sure! - MT

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Yeah I know what you mean about the weather it was 102F in our garden today. My Primer was drying as it hit the 1/55 parts I was painting.

Once Ive finnished the wall round my new Koi pond (It only needs the capping done) my next project is to extend our leanto shed which is mostly used for garden tools and bikes. This will hopefully free up some room and give me the much needed work room space in my workshop/shed. :)

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You're not kidding! It's hot enough in the house! I hope all works out for your improved "shop." - MT

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Hey guys, you all make me wish I remembered more from my high school chemistry class.  Problem is all the chemicals I've used since then! :wacko:

Here's samples from what I've done so far:

post-2518-1152568877_thumb.jpg  post-2518-1152568929_thumb.jpg post-2518-1152568987_thumb.jpg

Drilling the stab's          Stab assembly parts    Sample parts layout

I glued all the sheets together with super glue (a small bit) and pasted my printed blue print on them for cutting out.  The one photo shows my make shift hand drill press for drilling pilot holes.  The stabilizer assembly parts are shown loosley fit together and deployed.  The "L" springs can be seen sticking out on the posts.  I now have to make up the catches and solenoids to catch and release the stabilizer fins.

The above shot shows the batteries and motors just stuck in there for an idea of size.  Note the 1/200 armored VF-1J in the middle for size comparison (as requested).

The motors will actually be in pods at the stern below the overhang (see side photos posted earlier for view).  The motors are about "700-720" size.  The average RC car uses a 540 size.  That's it for now.  I gotta get to bed. - MT

414951[/snapback]

Looking great, MT. B))

post-2518-1152568877_thumb.jpg

BTW - Where did you purchase this?

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Hey NMB4M, I bought it in the kitchen section, the hardware section and hobby shops. It's a square with RC car bearings in a tube screwed on the front. The shaft is connected to an old pinvise. The handle is an old RC car pinion gear. The whole thing is attached to a cutting board that I cut a slot in for a miter. It's basically a hand powered ghetto drill press. It doesn't do big holes, but it starts the small ones straight! - MT

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UPDATE: 23 July 06

It's been really hot here lately, but I haven't been sitting on my butt the whole time! I had to make my own solenoids for the actuators on the stabilizers. I couldn't find the voltage or size I need, so I have to make my own (talk about scratch building :( ). I also changed the shape of the bow nose (ONE MORE TIME!). I inverted the shape from what it is supposd to be from the drawings. It's fixed now. I just have to file and sand it down. Here's some pictures to give you an idea.

post-2518-1153661145_thumb.jpg post-2518-1153661204_thumb.jpg post-2518-1153661280_thumb.jpg

Winding the solenoids Solenoid core windings Rough cut bow changes

I wound the solenoid core on aluminum tube to help it cool faster, plus the bit sticking out will act as a heat sink and spring holder. The nut on the other end helps to focus the magnetic flux towards the front of the coil (the other reason for the shape of the wire windings).

This upcoming week is going to be busy with Vacation Bible School, so I don't know how far I'll get. - MT

Edited by MechTech

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Great work. I know how teadious it can be winding your own coils and such. I used to have to wind transfromer coils by hand "Yawn".

Dont wear yourself out this next week, I,m on holiday this week and I`ve already been given "little jobs" to do round the house. So no fun for me.

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