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6 Foot Long Daedalus Scratch Build Up

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Thanks everybody. I'll post pictures tomorrow after the Milliput sets and I sand down the reshaped parts. - MT

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Wow. I think I would fly to England just to see the finished model.

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Wow.  I think I would fly to England just to see the finished model.

408317[/snapback]

Launch day Party cool.

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Thank you for the encouragement everyone; some days it really helps!

Here's the updates I said I'd post a few days ago. SORRY! It had something to do with father's day, setting up my children's pool, (still too small to put my ship in) and sanding the bow section.

post-2518-1150842600_thumb.jpg 3/4 bow view

post-2518-1150842631_thumb.jpg A shot from below (note the curve on top now and hatch)

post-2518-1150842670_thumb.jpg Starboard side view (note the rear block to level it off)

I always wondered why someone would want to use Mori Mori or similar filler on their model. Then I sanded down this puppy with too coarse a grit and thought, "oh yeah, gotta buy some now." More sanding keeps thining out the walls too much.

I had to recover the other side in a large section again with Milliput since I sanded most of it away! How's that for counter productive? I hope this week to put a primer coat on to catch all the surface flaws and fill them in with something.

Anybody got some "home brews?" I can't wait two weeks to order some Mori Mori or other product. I do have Squadron Green Putty (as if you couldn't tell). - MT

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WOW! That is all I can say...

Man I would really like to have kits of Daedalus and Prometheus... Well not in that scale. :p

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Anybody got some "home brews?" I can't wait two weeks to order some Mori Mori or other product. I do have Squadron Green Putty (as if you couldn't tell). - MT

Go down to your local Automotive supply store and get yourself a big tub of Lightweight Automotive body filler - it's pretty much the same thing as Mori - Mori (although a little more stinky - use a mask or do it in well ventilated conditions) except I find that it is easier to work with: if you want it to dry faster use more of the cream hardner that comes with it. In some shops you can even buy the cream hardner seperately as the different brands all use pretty much the same stuff. Sands like a dream, easy to shape, and pound for pound waaaayyy cheaper! :D

That's my two scents anyway.

P.S. I haven't said anything about this yet 'cus it's pretty much all been said, but for what it's worth Beautiful job so far man. Kudos for takeing on such a massive job and sticking with it!! ;)

Edited by Chas

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Yeah I agree with Chas The light weight filler is great I have used it fo a while now and used alongside to Tamiya filler and such it is great easy to sand paint and fill awesome.

You can get great big tubs at Halfords or the automotive factors you see on industrial estates. Generally you can get smallish tubs for a few pounds but the big cans offer the best value for money.

Polyester filler roxs.

Does anyone know a good way of thining it down to make it pourable ??

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i wouldnt use any polyester putty on it for the simple fact that bondo and similar auto poly putties love to absorb water and swell. Id get some plumbers 2 part epoxy and use that in the troublesome areas. the epoxy wont absorb water and is also stronger than poly putty. I believe you are still going to make this RC.

A few layers of an epoxy Gelcote would work too, they come in a paintable form and could be used in a similar fashoin as Mr Surfacer on a project in this size.

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Does anyone know a good way of thining it down to make it pourable ??

Well I've heard of some guys using industrial Isopropyl Alchohol (like 90+%) to thin it, but I haven't ever tried that myself.

that bondo and similar auto poly putties love to absorb water and swell

That was my one concern whith suggesting it HWR, but I thought that as MechTech was already using, or had decided to use Mori-Mori, he had already considered that. I mean if the thing is sealed really well there shouldn't be a problem should there?

Any way, I don't know how expensive it is but there is always the two part epoxy that is used with fiberglass sheets. Might be hard to sand and work with epoxy though. :huh:

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I have used P38 (Bondo in the UK) near water and it's unaffected by water as far as I can tell. It's just polyester putty in a big £5 tub. Cheaper than the Mori Mori putty when you are doing big jobs.

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Well I've heard of some guys using industrial Isopropyl Alchohol (like 90+%) to thin it, but I haven't ever tried that myself.

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Mmmm It just so happens that I have a 2 galon can of industrial Iso in the garage. looks like I`ll run a test at the weekend.

I`ll let you know how it went (if Im not dead or something :p )

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Thanks everybody. Tonight I glued ribs into the bow section to cover and make a large tab that will interlock into the mid/stern section.

SDF-1: Thanks. If you get the SDF-1 from Imai, you can have two little ones. :D That's what the photos showing size comparison are from.

Neptune Survey: Thanks. I'm hoping to finish it within a year or less. The upper "hanger bay" should be easier and faster to build.

Chas: Thanks again. I appreciate the advice. I will be sealing it so water should not be an issue.

Big F: Thanks again and for the advice. As I was typing my wife popped by and saw the text. She knew just what to use (she used to be a "motorcycle momma").

She did all the work on her bike and others. When you're experimenting with thinning down the fillers, if you start seeing a light at the end of the tunnel, DON"T GO! And oh yeah, launch party for sure! ;)

HWRMKII: Thanks for the advice. I've heard that gel coat can be brittle. I wonder if it will flex alright on the styrene hull. Paintable is good! Whatever I use has to be soft due to the differences in soft styrene and the filling compound.

Olivers: Thanks for a brand. It might come down to that.

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I have used P38 (Bondo in the UK)

410253[/snapback]

It is the same product? I didn't know it's sold under a different name outside US. Any more info? I'm interested if it could be available here where I live...

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You know, I'm not sure of the brand names, but I've seen guys on model boat forums take a brass rudder "skeleton" and build it up with similar type sof fillers. I'll have to go back and look at the pictures. :D

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On prop forums I go to they use the plastic skeleton and expandable foam to rough out the shape, cover it in epoxy resin or Bondo then take a fibreglass mould from it.

Bondo=US

P38=UK

Car Bog??=Australia

If you go to an automotive shop (Halfords in the UK) it is advertised as car body filler. You get a tub of putty then a tube of hardener.

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Yeah P38 is the same as bondo If you want to use a fiberglass equivalent use P40 its the same manufacturer but with a fiberglass filler that stuff is as tuff as old boots and sands quite well, stinks a bit though. My brother used it on his sailing dingies. Halfords do a large tin of the bondo type filler usually found on the shelves below where you find the smaller tins.

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Aha. That's what my wife was telling me but she couldn't remember which was which. After I put some primer on there, I'll see what I missed and how bad it is.

I'm working on the receptacle now for the bow section's tab. Slow going since I have to use liquid cement for the strongest weld and overall strength. Super glue gets too brittle and cracks much easier I've found. - MT

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superglue has no real give at all. Its great for china and stuff that is porous and not moveable.

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UPDATE 26 JUN 06

Completed hull joints and now the two halves can be attached or taken apart for transportation.

post-2518-1151359764_thumb.jpg Here's the joint showing stainless steel screws/wingnuts.

post-2518-1151359862_thumb.jpg Here's the joint as it looks assembled showing braces.

post-2518-1151359923_thumb.jpg Here's a 3/4 starboard bow shot.

post-2518-1151359977_thumb.jpg Here's an upper/side view putting the length and dimensions into perspective. Some of the photos earlier make the bow look look HUGE!

Assembled together it seems as strong as a one piece hull. I'm glad because I didn't know if it would be. The test is when I put 15 pounds of batteries into it and all the running gear!

Big F: You're right about the super glue. I've gotta fix one joint where I got impatient and used super glue instead of plastic cement.

I realized I can't primer it yet because I still have to put all the blisters, control surfaces and other bits on the hull. ( I tried to post a drawing but it wouldn't let me!) - MT

Edited by MechTech

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man that looks awesome!

Your shop is so clean and organized, I hate you.

UPDATE 26 JUN 06

Completed hull joints and now the two halves can be attached or taken apart for transportation.

post-2518-1151359764_thumb.jpg Here's the joint showing stainless steel screws/wingnuts.

post-2518-1151359862_thumb.jpg Here's the joint as it looks assembled showing braces.

post-2518-1151359923_thumb.jpg Here's a 3/4 starboard bow shot.

post-2518-1151359977_thumb.jpg Here's an upper/side view putting the length and dimensions into perspective.  Some of the photos earlier make the bow look look HUGE!

Assembled together it seems as strong as a one piece hull.  I'm glad because I didn't know if it would be.  The test is when I put 15 pounds of batteries into it and all the running gear!

Big F: You're right about the super glue.  I've gotta fix one joint where I got impatient and used super glue instead of plastic cement.

I realized I can't primer it yet because I still have to put all the blisters, control surfaces and other bits on the hull. ( I tried to post a drawing but it wouldn't let me!) - MT

411509[/snapback]

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Now people can really see the size of this project!

The work looks amazing so far, great job!

If I ever had a workbench that clean and organized, it would mean my wife had gotten in there and I wouldn't be able to find anything! :lol::p

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Guest Bromgrev

That's ridiculous! I love your work almost as much as I love your workshop. With a built-in sound system, no less! :lol:

EDIT: on the subject of fillers and such, there are several companies in the UK which specialise in GRP products. I used to get big tubs of filler (identical to P38, but much cheaper) from them back in my messing-about-with-planes days. Can't remember names, but there's one in Wollaston in Northamtonshire, and they used to do mail order. They also stock everything for resin casting, including metallic powders.

Edited by Bromgrev

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Thanks Grayson and jardann, feelin' the love. I actually HAVE to keep my area clean. There is no door to my work area (have to work quietly at night) and the children play in there. If I forget and leave anything sitting out - it's toast. That's why everything is up high or is in a locking drawer (note the bars that go across one side of the plastic drawer unit). If I don't sweep up afterwards, the dust and shavings get dragged ALL over the house. So I sweep and "keep the peace."

Thanks Bromgrev. I'll see what I can find. Anybody can have a decent shop if they take a little time and money. I didn't spend much on all the plastic drawer units or little bit of timber to make locking bars for the drawer units. When my baby daughter walked up to me holding a hacksaw in her hands, I knew I had to do something! I just bought all the drawer units piece by piece each payday.

Thanks olivers. It looks like they carry everything for modeling. I might mailorder since they're a couple hours off from me. I'm gonna see what Halfords has too. The model boat forums have a lot of referances to them. - MT

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Here's an idea I'm working on for the stabilizers. There will be four just like the drawings. I'm making them retract to prevent breakage and they'll simply fold back if they hit something. They will latch back in the stowed position and a solinoid will unlatch them. This will make transport safer too!

They will each sit in a seperate, small, thin compartment sealed from water leakage. The mechanisms are above the compartments for ease of maintenance and to keep them out of the water (it's that whole water and electricity thang).

If anyone has a better idea, I'm open! - MT

post-2518-1151791789_thumb.jpg

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you can try something like they do in sail boats and make it deploy straight down, though im not sure of the math involved i think that would be your best bet to keep your well, keep somewhat cosmetic look to it. maybe even scale it down and develop a three point system wiht one towards the bow and two towards the aft section bent at about a 115% angle. Get on to pull up and just make the other two pull in. Sort of like the current landing systems in most planes.

Im not sure if this will help or if im just making myself out to be an ass but at least i tried to help.

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Thanks Tinderfitles. These are actually part of the ship's design. There are two sets on the port and starboard sides. Two are near the bow and two are near the stern. They are almost perfectly horizontal too (like cruise ship stab's). There's actaully a fifth in the bulbous bow too, but that one will have to retract vertically. Little room for creativity except in how to engineer it. That's the fun part I guess. Thanks for the help. - MT

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Well the stabs look like they`ll work to me. I cant wait to see this finnished.

For those of you who are waiting for my report on Iso mixed with car body filler. Well due to an enormous hangover on Sunday from my friends Stag doo :) I didnt even get drunk which makes it worse :( I only did a small test.

What I can say is that Iso happily removes gone off and badly mixed filler that wont dry. Just soak it and then rub it off later with a cloth. A propper test will follow.

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Thanks BigF. I've always got so Iso on hand for cleaning parts prior to gluing or removing ink markings.

I saw an old vacuform kit that a guy built in Fine Scale Modeler and his kit had filled gashes like mine. I don't feel so bad anymore. :D - MT

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Where do you get the Isopropyl Alchohol? I can't find a good source of it in the UK.

I know in the US you can get it in pharmacies but they don't sell it in Boots (otherwise it would overtake Special Brew as the tramps favorite).

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