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6 Foot Long Daedalus Scratch Build Up

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How did I miss this???

Impressive :o

388259[/snapback]

Same... <_<

I need to come to this sub-forum more often. That is an amazing piece of work. :o Can't wait for the final product! GL.

388273[/snapback]

Yeah, I am asking that myself to... nice work.

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I just found this too!

Anyways, about color:

Several things to consider. There is no "battleship grey". As in a specific color you can go out and buy that is called as such, nor a commonly used color specifically for battleships or anything.

That out of the way, there's several common colors, and WW2 is by far the best reference for what was out there.

However, for such huge objects, scale effect does make one heck of a difference. Large warships are the ONLY thing I ever even think about dealing with scale effect when painting, but you should definitely think about it for this.

Finally---being a Japanese design (sorta) you probably want to check out Kure grey and Sasebo grey----the two main greys used on Yamato class ships. To this day, it seems colorists in Japan use the Yamato as a color reference for all military ships. And that's a LOT darker than any other ships you'll find---Japanese warships were painted much darker than other nations, and the battleships in particular were especially dark.

Just some historical info to consider in picking colors.

PS---Japanese "lower hull red" is much more brown than most nations. Start with brown then add red, not vice-versa.

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UPDATED the post with latest progress photos (above).

David - Thank you for the advice on the colors. I've actaually got a Nichimo 1/200th Yamato (52" hull) on the back burner and related resource book. The book mentions colors and mixing ratios. I'll take your advice into consideration. You're right about "battleship grey." It's more of a metaphor really. Maybe I can buy paint in bulk, save some money and paint them both the same colors! :lol: Seriously though, thanks. I'm still torn between the "clown coloration" or grey scheme. - MT

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Oooooh, the BIG Yamato kit. I have a 1/350 Iowa and Tirpitz I'm slowly working on, and have been considering a 1/350 Musashi.

If you're unaware of it, one of the best Yamato site for modelers is here:

http://www.coma.ais.ne.jp/~watakan/yamato/index.html

Somewhat Engrish-y, but very good info, especially on paint--down to the actual ratios and materials used.

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Thanks for the website. It's new to me. I'm markin' it! Bonus points...My wife found "Starblazers" on tape for me today at the thrift store. Can't go wrong for buck - even if it is badly edited! I haven't seen it since it first came out! Thanks again! - MT

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APRIL 29th UPDATE:

Scratch built bow thruster due to extra power needed. Graupner and Robbe make them, but not with enough power to haul my hull around in the strong British breezes.

I also corrected the shape of the stem and bow area. NEVER use one source for your referances, the model I was using didn't match the drawings (in that area at least). I'm off to cover the bow now... - MT

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Thank you. The covering of the bow is going slow because of the compound curves. - MT

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Thank you.  The covering of the bow is going slow because of the compound curves. - MT

395272[/snapback]

Im sure with your methodical workmanship it will all end well.

Edited by big F

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Thanks for the comment. I want at least the hull up and B)) running to play with this summer!

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I hope to have some pictures soon. I've been working on radio transmitter. I've taken the two, two-way gimbals on the radio and converted them to dual throttles on the left hand side. The right hand side is now a steering wheel with bow thruster buttons and eight other functions all on the same control. It's been an engineering challenge to make it all work smoothly. All my time on line lately has been to track down some good motors for the ship at a decent price. I'm almost there though. Thanks for asking. I'll post pictures soon! - MT

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24 MAY UPDATE. At the very bottom of the pictures you'll see what I've been doing for the last month. It's been fun and tough to do the engineering on this. I had to make everything work and be rugged still. This meant fiberglass board throttle handles and 3mm thick styrene plastic where any stress might be (see, I was still model building). Oh, and then it had to look "store bought" and not a prop from a movie laboratory. I did find a two throttle lever assembly for another brand of transmitter, but at the same cost as my whole radio - forget it!

The two throttles mean the left side motors can go forward, while the right go backwards and help make a tighter turn. Or just use one set to save battery run time. If I build a tank later on, this would control my steering/motor control. - MT

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Would an ellevon splitter work? I've been thinking about using one, on a tank I built. Hobbico makes a fairly inexpensive one, that works on regular radios.

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It might work. Especially if you have a computer radio that you can program special combinations into. I've never tried it personally. I went through the work of two throttles solely because of the ease and simplicity of two levers. A computer radio might even be able to couple the two for you now (in case you do have one). - MT

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The hobbico one is made for regular old AM radios. I've got an old Airtronics Rival pistol grip radio I want to use it with. I'm currently using another Rival that's been reconfigured into a project box. I'm just not fond of the independant track control, since that not how real tanks function. (at least no M60s)

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If you can set exponential steering on the module that would be great. Then again it may not need it. I haven't messed with aftermarket control modules like that. Just as long as you don't get all or nothing when you turn the wheel. I hope it works out. That is the easier way to go than two sticks. I'm just more accustomed to them myself. Have you contacted "HWR MKII" yet? He's BIG into R/C tanks. He might have used a similar module. Hope that helps. - MT

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I think the modules he uses are too big to fit in a 1/35 scale tank chassis.

Anyway, we seem to be taking the discussion away from your model. A six foot long Daedalus is too cool, to do that to.

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great work ...

it gaves me funny ideas (1/200 prometheus :p )

403025[/snapback]

Nice name, Isamu. You've got my last name there!

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Greyryder: Now I have the whole picture - 1/35. Tamiya? If you don't have speed controls for each side already, try the Novak SPY. I use it in my destroyer ship model.

Isamu Dyson: If you build a 1/200th Promethius, I'll bring my Daedalus over there and we can sail to "Macross Island" together! I think it's somewhere near Calais!? :lol:

Gutsand Casca: "My 4 yr. old son asks me why he's got so much more Cobra stuff than GIjoe stuff. So I told him that GIjoe is underfunded by the government, whilst Cobra has unlimited money as they are backed by the ACLU after someone in the world was offended by the Joe's "Real American Hero" slogan.

(I neglected to tell him that Cobra's arsenal looks cooler to Dad)"

Dude - how come that sounds so realistic? I'd believe it? Stupid ACLU backing Cobra. I knew they were up to no good! Now I know how they got their nickname "American Communist Lawyers Union." :p

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Isamu Dyson: If you build a 1/200th Promethius, I'll bring my Daedalus over there and we can sail to "Macross Island" together!  I think it's somewhere near Calais!?  :lol:

Lol , well after a quick search i found that the prometheus is 512 M long .. so at 1/200 it'll make him about 2.5 m long :( quite big . i'll try to find comparaison picture with the daedalus to scale it down a bit. Anyway it still been just a "funny idea" for the moment :p

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Check out the top picture with Daedalus comparrisons. BOTH ships have to be smaller than what the books say. So maybe your model would be only 2M long? - MT

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ALL FUTURE POSTS WILL BE HERE IN "REPLIES."

Some foam and two boxes of Milliput later, the bow section is nearly completed.

I jsut have a about two hours of sanding and I can begin priming. There will be some plating detail showing simulated panel lines. The primer will tell me what detail is left after sanding. Adding panel lines will be the easiest stem if I have to.

I purchased my motors and speed controls already. I'm getting an itchy "throttle finger" to take this thing out for a cruise! B)) - MT

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Thank you. I'm reshaping the top of the bow now! Almost happy with the shape, but not quite. - MT

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Dude you're a boat building genius, holy crap!

I wanna see pics of the wooden boats you've made.

Edited by Grayson72

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What wooden boats? Well, there was that walnut shell boat in kindergarten, but I don't think that counts :p . I build almost exclusively in styrene. This is my first "planking" model. Sanded down you can't tell on the outside 'cause the seems go away. Inside it looks like old plaster boarding.

post-2518-1150308728_thumb.jpg

The bow section is trying to kick my butt with all the compound curves everywhere. Don't follow another model for your model - USE THE DRAWINGS! That's why I've had to make so many changes to the bow section. I think I got it now. I've trimmed the top sections back and covered it with plastic. Tonight I'll clean it up and Milliput the seams and stem area.

Gotta go and shop for propellers! - MT

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