David Hingtgen Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 Well, just got done from airbrushing the camo pattern on the Iowa's hull. About 98% perfect. Now, upon reflecting, I know how I might have been able to prevent 2 spots where the paint leaked under the tape, but another two just defy explanation. (and dark navy blue on pale pale grey is VERY obvious) 1. Bare hull. Masked the waterline, then sprayed primer. 2. Then sprayed a thick coat of light grey. 3. Then sprayed 2 more coats of light grey a few days later. 4. Masked over that layer at the waterline again. 5. Painted navy blue. 6. Pulled off tape, and found navy blue paint that had leaked underneath all those layers, to "swim" up along some non-existant gap in the primer, and find its way to the very first layer of light grey. WTF? The first layer of tape was SEALED under the primer, as well as multiple layers of paint. *sigh*. Will let dry for a week, and hope the light grey is thick enough that I can scrape off the navy blue, and still have some light grey beneath. And one piece needs to be stripped down to bare plastic. (Aft funnel's forward director platform). Went pretty well overall, but I was hoping for perfect. (The Tirpitz's hull was perfect, and masked in exactly the same way with the same tape). And will have to brush-paint turret #1's demarcation line. Am considering brush-painting the camo on turrets 2 and 3 based on how #1 went. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
007-vf1 Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 When I airbrush heavy like that with any masking, I only let it dry to the touch (and not even that long If I can handle the model in a part that I won't mess up) and then take the masking off right away. If there's a mistake it can be fixed rather in the 'spot' before is too late. I have painted the camo on my 1/144 VF-11 fighter and had to wait for the paint to dry every time of the 4 layers I used. Then I decide to get an "striking" detail by adding a different color on the nose cone. Since I was tired and wanted to be pretty much done I get a testor spray can and mask most of the nose cone. I go outside and test the hand pattern by spraying out in the air. Then I get close to the model and the wind decides to change course at that moment; you saw what I ended up with. Just like Forrest Gump said it once..."Sh*t happens." So, I feel your pain brother..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted September 23, 2003 Author Share Posted September 23, 2003 Actually I did that. The stern was still visibly wet when I started pulling the tape off the bow. At least for how I fix mistakes, I want the paint to be rock-hard super-ultra-cured before messing with it. Due to the multi-color splinter camo in combination with waterline and lower hull, the painting order is thus: 1. Pale grey. (done) 2. Dark navy blue. (more grey than blue) (done) 2.5. Flat clearcoat (to try to stem paint bleeding--but since 3 layers of grey didn't stop the navy blue I don't know if it'll help) 3. Black. (next week, after mistakes are fixed and the hull is dry) 4. Red. (as soon as the black is dry enough to mask directly over it--3 or 4 hours if possible) But any other way would involve masking the same area multiple times, and you can never line it up again perfect. (I spent about an hour on the waterline alone--30 inches of perfectly parallel lines on each side--ack) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Less than Super Ostrich Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 not sure if I follow you... what went wrong? are you looking for advice or just venting? if its advice, i'd suggest stickier tape... worked for me. if you are venting... then i hear you man. i've messed up several models in the painting phase. i've had to strip entire models down just to start over again. by the way, i'd love to see your models. do you post on FSM or SSM? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hingtgen Posted September 23, 2003 Author Share Posted September 23, 2003 (edited) Pretty much just venting. (As for stickier tape--no way. Acrylic+resin=low paint adhesion--I'd have entire layers peel off rather than a few smudges/leaks) I use the lowest tack possible. It's just one of those "it happens" things. Piece of tape some 30 inches long, sealed exactly evenly (magic tape+flashlight=you can see EXACTLY how sealed it is) yet at like the 4 and 22 inch marks--it just didn't work, despite that layers of paint had been applied over it prior the the one that "leaked". Kind of like how the bow actually repelled paint upwards against the force of gravity for the first coat. THAT was weird. (I've had "runs" but never one that actually made the paint flow upwards) As for posting--feh. If you don't have photo-etched brass railings, you're not a "real" ship modeler pretty much. (Doesn't matter than they're still like 700% overscale, they're expected nowadays) Kind of like submitting Star Trek pics--unless it's the greatest one ever, they don't really care. But they'll take all the Bf-109's in the world... I'll post here or at one of the diecast model forums when it's done. Actually, the next things done will be USS Conolly and USS San Francisco. They're quite close. Less than a week unless something happens. Edited September 23, 2003 by David Hingtgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wm cheng Posted September 23, 2003 Share Posted September 23, 2003 Man, I really feel for ya!! Sh@t happens sometimes and it will probably take more time to figure out what really happened than to strip it down and redo. We are here for you brother Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Jenius Posted September 28, 2003 Share Posted September 28, 2003 paint hates me... it always gets ruined... masked or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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