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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.

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Today I was finally a proud owner of a 1/48 vf-1a, Less than hour out of the box I noticed the inside intake half of the right leg has 3 cracks in it :o and the left has major stress marks. It was brand new......what happened??????? :unsure:

Edited by Pierre

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Today I was finally a proud owner of a 1/48 vf-1a, Less than hour out of the box I noticed the inside intake half of the right leg has 3 cracks in it :o and the left has major stress marks. It was brand new......what happened??????? :unsure:

where'd you get it from?

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a local anime shop in florida

Perhaps the shop owner had let it out of the box to play? I'd take it back and point out the cracks and stress marks to him and demand your cash back. You paid for perfection, and you should recieve perfection.

Now if it was a tiny correctable problem, say a loose joint somewhere, then you can fix it yourself, as that's easy. Recasting hips and repainting them, not so easy.

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i need urgent help. one of the tabs that holds the nose gear in place on my 1/48 has broken off. what sort of glue should i use to fix it?

Edited by Valkyrie Nut

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i need urgent help. one of the tabs that holds the nose gear in place on my 1/48 has broken off. what sort of glue should i use to fix it?

You've got two choices.

Superglue

Epoxy

The plus side of superglue is that it will bond instantly. However if you're careless, you might become one with you're VF-1. It's a nice clean fix, but you've got to be cautious as to not accidentally glue anything else... Also, the fumes might fog the canopy, so you might want to consider taking the nose apart.

Epoxy is slightly messy, but it will bond and hold the plastic quite well.

Pick one and choose.

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ill probably use superglue. thanks for the help ^_^

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hey i just got a low vis and i was putting on some decals, nothing out of the ordinary but then i noticed that some of the weathering paint was smugged i didnt think it was anything to worry about untill i was putting on decals on the nose and notice that it smugged alot, has anyone eles have this problem?

So that's what that stuff was. I broke my 'Low Vis out after my restaurant closed, and experienced smudging as well, although I thought I had gotten some fryer oil on it or something. Damn it, this thing's smudging on its own! Where's Earl Scheib when you need him?

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just got a supposedly new super ostrich from ebay. box was sealed and fig seemed new. when i opened it, ran into a major prob. when transforming into battroid mode, the front cover just wouldn't slide down. upon inspection, came to my attention that the metal piece below (the piece the shape of a T) was crooked and that the tip had been cut off (it wasn't painted but rather silver)

also, found a piece of paper tape on the front wheel.

so is this new or opened?

oh yeah, before i opened the box, there was a pretty big gap between the front cover that fold front and the cover that folds back....i'd say around 3 mm

Edited by kp_assman

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Got my VF-1S Hikaru with Fast Pack recently. Really nice and all, but still prone to a few problems.

VF-1S Hikaru:

- The air break is very loose and pops down everytime I move the toy in robot mode.

- Got a few deep scratches on the backpack panel as if the plastic accidentally got scraped by metal or something sharp.

- Neck joint is too tight to turn sideways, cause the base of the head to pop out loose in robot mode.

- One landing gear has a wheel that doesn't roll very well, causing the whole thing to fall when I drag it on a surface in fighter mode.

Fast Pack:

- Small missiles can't sit tight on the slots.

- Large missles don't stay on to the pegs too well.

- The top half of the left booster is too loose & falls off quite often.

I really appreciate Yamato's effort in designing beautiful pieces like these, and has been buying their Macross stuff on & off. But seeing issues like these everytime I buy their products (premium price ones too) really keeps me from investing more money on them. May be another GBP Armor set for 1/48 or 1/60, but that would be it. I doubted I'll buy more valks from them <_< That's just too bad.

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HI guys

So sorry for this really old old question but never really got around to fixing this problem I have with my 1/60 vf-1s strike skull leader. When I put the valk in battoriod mode the fast pack just hangs down/ falls back. It seems the hindge can't keep up the fast pack because of the weight. Not sure how to fix this problem if there is a solution I'd apreciate it if you guys point me in the right direction please :D My only solution was to leave it im fighter mode.

Thanks from Rich

Again so sorry for the old question :unsure:

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Hmm, well I don't know where this should go but here it will. For yellowing on something that isn't painted, get these Mr Clean Magic Erasers. I know someone here reccomended them, and that's what I got. They take a while and will easily go through paint and decals (as i sadly found out with a decal on one of my yellow valks), but they work.

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Fast Pack:

- Small missiles can't sit tight on the slots.

- Large missles don't stay on to the pegs too well.

- The top half of the left booster is too loose & falls off quite often.

I really appreciate Yamato's effort in designing beautiful pieces like these, and has been buying their Macross stuff on & off. But seeing issues like these everytime I buy their products (premium price ones too) really keeps me from investing more money on them. May be another GBP Armor set for 1/48 or 1/60, but that would be it. I doubted I'll buy more valks from them <_< That's just too bad.

I had the same issue with a lot of the ones I had. I also found this too, you could get them in but it they turned slightly they would fall out. For the wing hard points I used Testors non toxic cement for plastic models in all the holes. Now any missile place in them stays well and you can turn them also. I plan on using the GBP armor on my VF-1J with floppy legs.

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I've got one problem with my Hikaru -1S that I'm not quite sure is a problem, or something that is something I'm just losing sleep over for nothing:

When I went to transform my Valk yesterday, I noticed that on the right leg, a black rubber or plastic seal was peeking out of the joint, and was crimped between the two plastic pieces that close around the leg swingbar. Is this going to do anything that might make the leg fall off (or a catastrophe comparable) and is there anything I can or should do about it?

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I've got one problem with my Hikaru -1S that I'm not quite sure is a problem, or something that is something I'm just losing sleep over for nothing:

When I went to transform my Valk yesterday, I noticed that on the right leg, a black rubber or plastic seal was peeking out of the joint, and was crimped between the two plastic pieces that close around the leg swingbar. Is this going to do anything that might make the leg fall off (or a catastrophe comparable) and is there anything I can or should do about it?

This is quite easy to fix, although the problem will continue to rear its ugly head. Just remove the legs from the swingbar. Takes a bit of force, but they are not screwed on. (However, if you break it, don't blame me!) What you'll have is 2 halves of retangular plastic that encase the ball joint at the end of the swingbar. Get a screw driver and remove the screw and make extra sure the screw driver is a good fit. You don't want to end up mutlilating the screw head. Once you seperate the two pieces, you can reposition the little black rubber cap, then screw everything back together and slide the leg back on.

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I've got one problem with my Hikaru -1S that I'm not quite sure is a problem, or something that is something I'm just losing sleep over for nothing:

When I went to transform my Valk yesterday, I noticed that on the right leg, a black rubber or plastic seal was peeking out of the joint, and was crimped between the two plastic pieces that close around the leg swingbar. Is this going to do anything that might make the leg fall off (or a catastrophe comparable) and is there anything I can or should do about it?

I know what you are talking about. Seems like a very common issue with many 1/48 if not all. My old VF-1A Hikaru has that, and I'm quite sure my new 1S Hikaru will have it soon. That plastic seal seems to stick out after posing your valk a bit on the hip joints. If I remember correctly, most people here just leave it as is unless it got really bad. As long as you are careful with the joints, it shouldn't get much worse after a while. Otherwise, you can take the advice of imode and fix it by taking it apart.

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I've got one problem with my Hikaru -1S that I'm not quite sure is a problem, or something that is something I'm just losing sleep over for nothing:

When I went to transform my Valk yesterday, I noticed that on the right leg, a black rubber or plastic seal was peeking out of the joint, and was crimped between the two plastic pieces that close around the leg swingbar. Is this going to do anything that might make the leg fall off (or a catastrophe comparable) and is there anything I can or should do about it?

This is quite easy to fix, although the problem will continue to rear its ugly head. Just remove the legs from the swingbar. Takes a bit of force, but they are not screwed on. (However, if you break it, don't blame me!) What you'll have is 2 halves of retangular plastic that encase the ball joint at the end of the swingbar. Get a screw driver and remove the screw and make extra sure the screw driver is a good fit. You don't want to end up mutlilating the screw head. Once you seperate the two pieces, you can reposition the little black rubber cap, then screw everything back together and slide the leg back on.

Does anyone have pictures that could illustrate it a little clearer? If it has to come to that, I'd like to know as much as possible before taking apart a $130 toy... :)

Also, if the black seal does fall out, what does that mean for my Valk's leg?

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I've got a slight problem with the head on my Hikaru VF-1A. I now have three paint chips on the black part of the sensor eye due to the head hitting the inside of the left shoulder when I transform it, partly because the head antenna is a little too long to fit thru the head hatch without help. I have gloss, semi-gloss, and flat black acrylic model paint here and I can't figure out which one to use to touch up the chips. Any ideas???

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Can we still order spare parts from yamato. I recall some one saying that yamato no longer gives out spare parts . So would it be a waste of time to order spare parts through t hlj. I broke my backback hinge and on my 1/48 vfs. thanks what do you suggest sell it for parts or something thanks.

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I've got one problem with my Hikaru -1S that I'm not quite sure is a problem, or something that is something I'm just losing sleep over for nothing:

When I went to transform my Valk yesterday, I noticed that on the right leg, a black rubber or plastic seal was peeking out of the joint, and was crimped between the two plastic pieces that close around the leg swingbar. Is this going to do anything that might make the leg fall off (or a catastrophe comparable) and is there anything I can or should do about it?

This is quite easy to fix, although the problem will continue to rear its ugly head. Just remove the legs from the swingbar. Takes a bit of force, but they are not screwed on. (However, if you break it, don't blame me!) What you'll have is 2 halves of retangular plastic that encase the ball joint at the end of the swingbar. Get a screw driver and remove the screw and make extra sure the screw driver is a good fit. You don't want to end up mutlilating the screw head. Once you seperate the two pieces, you can reposition the little black rubber cap, then screw everything back together and slide the leg back on.

Does anyone have pictures that could illustrate it a little clearer? If it has to come to that, I'd like to know as much as possible before taking apart a $130 toy... :)

Also, if the black seal does fall out, what does that mean for my Valk's leg?

Sorry, no pictures. But the Ball join is encased within two halves of a rectangular plastic "join" which is held to the leg with nothing else but friction. Constant and repeated removal will most like make it loose, but 1 time shouldn't hurt unless you end up breaking it. :(

Edited by imode

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Okay, werd up to paintbrush. The square piece that closes around the ball joint simply slides into the leg. The screw keeps the two halves together squeezing tightly on the joint.

post-4-1070315934_thumb.jpg

Edited by imode

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LOL, Imode, that's actually pretty accurate. But since I took there pics, I'll go ahead and post them...

post-25-1070326446.jpg

post-25-1070326470.jpg

post-25-1070326491.jpg

I thought there was a whole rubber piece encompassing the ball but it's only on one half and it looks like it seeps due to the paint scratching off. In which case just sand the paint off and you should be ok. You may want to glue it to the plastic part for an extra measure.

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So, if I have to, I just pull -- carefully -- the assembly out, and then unscrew?

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The air break is very loose and pops down everytime I move the toy in robot mode.

My Hikaru 1S also has this minor problem. I removed the air brake and tried some small pieces of masking tape in the grooves where the bumps of the air brake rest, but without the desired effect. Has anyone fixed the loose air brake, please share your method. Want to see if there are other options before I apply some clear nail polish.

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So, if I have to, I just pull -- carefully -- the assembly out, and then unscrew?

[Vic Romano]Right you are Ken![/Vic Romano]

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So, if I have to, I just pull -- carefully -- the assembly out, and then unscrew?

[Vic Romano]Right you are Ken![/Vic Romano]

Ha Ha another MXC fan lol

Check your PM about the 1/48 canopy

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Well, I got a problem. I just got my VT-1 today and the damn chest plate won't frickin' slide down so that I can trasform it to battroid mode. I tried forcing it a little, but I'm affraid that I'll break it if I try any harder. Anyone else have this problem and/or have a suggestion on how to fix it?

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Oh Well, since the VE-1's battroid mode never got any screen time, and I don't really like the way it looks, I guess I'll just keep it in fighter and gerwalk mode when I play, er... I mean display it.

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Open the landing gear some and the chest plate should slide down no problem. I even had to do that with my Millia. The slider attached to the chestplate is probably hitting the gear wheels.

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Open the landing gear some and the chest plate should slide down no problem. I even had to do that with my Millia. The slider attached to the chestplate is probably hitting the gear wheels.

Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately, it didn't help. I'm pretty pissed the more I think about it. It also has some other quality issues, such as a loose head, chipping paint, and some scratches. Never bought a Yammie with QC problems until now. Guess I just lucked out before but this bothers me. :(

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I have the same problem with all the smaller yammies except for the supers and strike. I thought it was gonna improve but the 1/72s and eveything after the M&Ms on the 1/60 are just to much of a hassle to transform. Back to the box with those. I just mess with my 1/48s and the good ol' Bandais for now. But I do hope better M+ toys come out.

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I just got the 1/48 vf-1j fast pack, but I can't find where the arm pieces to the fast pack parts are.

Edited by johnh

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I just got the 1/48 vf-1j fast pack, but I can't find where the arm pieces to the fast pack parts are.

doh?

If you're missing the arm pieces, then I'd suggest you return it.

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