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What's wrong with my Yamato, Bandai, etc.

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The hands on my valk are kinda floppy. Was there a fix for this? I thought I remember seeing one, but can't remember where.

Overall I am very impressed with my first 1/48th though. Already pre-ordered the Hikaru VF-1S, and the fast pack set is on its way to me. I can see why you wouldn't go back to the 1/60.

Joe P.

Edited by Dragon Lord

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Just got my Low Vis yesterday, i do have a few gripes

1) head laser waaayyyy to long (not to mention the head looks small) and i got it caught in the back area when transforming and got a stress mark, so i trimmed it back about 3MM and am going to drill it out and paint it

2) That second little fin on the area that holds the backpack in gerwalk mode is a stupid loose piece and should be molded in

3) Is it me or does the nose of the plane look a little big

4) Takes to long to transform, i wish it was easy as the bandai's, but the sculpt and detail are EXCEPTIONAL

5) Oh, and the hands can be taken off, they should have been screwwed in or positivly attached,

My 50 cents <_<

Pfunk, it seems your post is mostly just your opinions of the toy and not legitimate 'what is wrong' complaints.

1) That the head laser is too long is your opinion. It certainly does not qualify as a 'What's wrong with.....' topic. Likewise, getting the head laser caught and stressing it is a user error. The 1/48 VF-1A head laser is actually very easy to clear through the hatch when transforming.

2) The purpose of having the second fin a moving peice is to allow the backpack to sit flatter (lower) in Gerwalk mode. It is a clever design feature, certainly not 'stupid'.

3) The 1/48 is designed to look best in fighter mode, thus the nose is longer than how it appears in the anime in Battroid mode. However, the anime uses anime magic to shrink parts so unless you go the Bandai route and have a short stubby inaccurate nose, it is impossible to have a nose which is lineart accurate in all three modes.

4) Transformation will become quicker with familiarity. What a lot of people don't seem to be able to grasp is that the more points of articulation a toy has, the longer it will take to transform. If the Yamato had the same limited articulation it would be just as quick as the Bandai. What it boils down to is is that everything is a compromise. If you want greater articulation and more features, then you have to suffer slightly slower transformation times. If you want quick easy transformation, but limited articulation, then buy a Bandai.

5) having the hands removable gives the option of adding optional hand sets ala the 1/48 VF-1J Hikaru. Anyway, the 1/48 hands do not fall out easily so what is wrong with this feature?

Graham

OK, I'll clarify a little more, hear me out

1st) the reason I called that 2nd fin piece stupid was for the pure fact of fit and finish (a good example is take a look at a lexus then go into my GMC truck, They use tighter lines and gaps, robust designs and styling q's that hide flaws. They produce up too 70,000 a year (unless your VW, they produce up to 500,000/yr) Ive been a designer for almost 15yrs and have valid opionions, as so does everyone (maybe I shouldnt have said stupid, maybe something like The design of the second fin should, IMO, have been maybe spring loaded/bound with a tighter attachment feature and cleaner molding lines (maybe a higher tonnage press or longer injection times (to get a better fit and finish))

2nd) IMO, The hands are sloppy and in my instance they fall out too easily and is limp wristed. Putting a snap feature or positivly attaching via small screw would have been a better design and could have still been concealed with the backing plate that can be removed and undone,,,,IMHO

C) I think the head laser is too long, in looks as in function and is easily damaged when transforming

D) I agree about the styling in fighter mode, but i still think the batloid mode is too thick in the chestplate and i think if it was thinned, the fighter mode wouldnt suffer that much at all, maybe look sleeker, again opionion

E)This is not to be construed as an attack on Yamato, merly a critic,,anything can allways be better, this is what creates a better product

Legitimate problems for this thread would be

1) loose hands that fall out

2) Antenna is too long and hard to get trough (maybe thiers sommething im missing, but i do put it through the back "hatch"

3) and that little fin was off when i got it, and i had to put it back on, it doent give a good snap when installed

Sorry all, :( if i put a little too much critic in a thread about manufacturing flaws and such,

I just get a little upset when they should have released the product later to get all the manufacturing flaws ironed out, same with automobiles, never buy the 1st production run

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1) loose hands that fall out

2) Antenna is too long and hard to get trough (maybe thiers sommething im missing, but i do put it through the back "hatch"

3) and that little fin was off when i got it, and i had to put it back on, it doent give a good snap when installed

I actually like the way the hands come out. It's a lot easier to take them out and put them back in, rather than try to pose the fingers in such a way so that I can jam it into the arm hollow. The antenna is no different than any of the previous 1A's. When you put the head through the back hatch, it's good to leave the antenna stick up straight into the air instead of leaving it folded down. If you want leave it folded down, rotate the head 45 degrees to the right or left so that you have a little bit more clearance when shoving it through the hatch. And like graham said, the movable second fin is to allow the backpack to lie flatter. If you glue it in place, you can forget about adding fastpacks to your valk, as the weight of the rear boosters will pull the hatch backwards. If you don't plan to get fastpacks, then feel free to glue it in place. The existing joint of the backpack without the swing-latch should be strong enough to hold a non-fastpack equipped backpack in place.

So to each his own...

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Quick complaint, I noticed last night that the wing stripes on my VF-1S look wrong compared to my VF-1A Hikaru. The stripes seem thicker and the black border around the Macross Kite and the wing numbers seems unusually thick and almost fuzzy looking. I am suprised I haven't noticed this earlier as I bought the valk from Kevin about 3 months ago.

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How do you fix the pimple on the 1/48 VF-1S head? I have a Roy shipped, and I want to be prepared if it has it. Do you sand it, use an exacto knife, or what? How big is the pimple generally anyway?

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Never mind, my question about the "beauty mark" has been answered in another thread.

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Only noticed one thing wrong with my Low-Viz so far and thats one of the landing gear "lights" (orange clear plastic piece) falls out. Simple fix, but thought I'd chime in for posterity.

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Its not too big a deal for me, but there is a slight gap in the nosecone area under the cockpit when I deploy the nose landing gear. It's really slight and is not a big deal to me. Also looking for the limp wrist fix, I'll probably find it around here somewhere.

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Its not too big a deal for me, but there is a slight gap in the nosecone area under the cockpit when I deploy the nose landing gear. It's really slight and is not a big deal to me. Also looking for the limp wrist fix, I'll probably find it around here somewhere.

The limp wrist fix is here.

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hi hi

i have yf-19 1st edition and well seeing if anybody can help me with 2 problems...

1 the infamous tab b is broken

and 2 my hips seem to be very loose like the greenish teal part with the teeth seems be chewing itself to death someone help me!

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hi hi

i have yf-19 1st edition and well seeing if anybody can help me with 2 problems...

1 the infamous tab b is broken

and 2 my hips seem to be very loose like the greenish teal part with the teeth seems be chewing itself to death someone help me!

adly my best advice is to stick the thing back in the box. keep it if you want it for collector value, sell it if you just want a perfect YF-19 cause yamato is making a resculpt.

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Thanks sturmvogel for the link, I thought I bookmarked it before, but I guess not. Saves me from looking around this site and the old forum.

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I got real lucky with my 1/48 Roy. I got the beauty mark. One tailfin skull is slightly crooked. Very little though at least. The canopy isn't exactly loose, but it is problematic to close. It is in permanent battroid, so the previous two don't make any real difference. The one I don't get get is that on the chestplate along the edge of the black stripe are scuff marks/scratches on the white. ??? This one I don't get. I also have a scuff mark on the left wing by the UN Spacy emblem. The scuffs are not generally noticable. But hold the valk up in bright light and you can see the marks. Any one else got the scuff marks? I love the valk, but the scuffs kind of put a slight damper on the experience.

Edited by Anubis

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beauty mark, uugh :angry:

my heatshield broke

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Just an update on my Low Viz backpack hinge, which broke during the first time I transformed it. I know others have had a similar problem (I just can't find the thread).

I just received my replacement parts from HLJ for my Low Viz backpack hinge via SAL. From the time I ordered until the time I received the parts only took about 2 weeks...not bad! :)

Anyway, I ordered replacement parts BP7 and BP8, and I received the entire backpack hinge assembly, including BP7, BP8, BP9, and BP10. Bonus! ;)

The only tricky part about replacing the broken backpack hinge was prying BP11 from the backpack (so you can take apart the backpack). You need a very thin tool (I used a small Swiss Army knife), and be very careful.

The result after putting in the new parts: it's as good as new! IMHO, it's much better than attempting to glue it, and it only cost about $20 for the parts including shipping! :)

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My Yamato 1/60 VF-1J Hikaru's landing gear won't support its weight (at least with the Super armor). They tend to fold back into the plane. Any hints or fixes?

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Cook up some chocks for it, or buy one of Sithlord's display stands. Easiest way to deal with it is to just plop it on a stand.

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hi all... am new here...i have a 1/48 VF-1A MAX and i just noticed that one of the tailfin is lacking the skull symbol, only the right side has the sign....anyone has the same problem?? dont know if this is a problem..just thought of sharing this coz am really bothered about this... :(

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My Yamato 1/60 VF-1J Hikaru's landing gear won't support its weight (at least with the Super armor). They tend to fold back into the plane. Any hints or fixes?

Well... You could use some very small pieces of double sided tape to help the landing gear stay in place, but the more... extreme solution would be to go and take apart the nose and legs and use clear nail polish to thicken up the landing gear joints. I've got the same 1J as you do, and it holds up just fine in fighter mode... It's just that it suffers from mechaosteoperosis... AKA cracked hips.

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You could use some very small pieces of double sided tape to help the landing gear stay in place, but the more... extreme solution would be to go and take apart the nose and legs and use clear nail polish to thicken up the landing gear joints. I've got the same 1J as you do, and it holds up just fine in fighter mode... It's just that it suffers from mechaosteoperosis... AKA cracked hips.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm happy to say that the LG don't have a problem when the Super Armor isn't installed, so I think I'll leave things as they are and maybe pick up a stand at some point.

How did your 1J get cracked hips? Anything I should watch out for during transformation?

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Ok, I finally got My Low Vis, And I hate the Hands But I knew I would from the Jump so That's not My problem. Are the side panels under the arms in battroid mode supposed to lock? or just sit there kinda loose? I was able to keep every other section firm except those. :ph34r:

Edited by NSJ23

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Anybody else's Roy 1/48 have sctratch marks on the chestplate or wings? Don't tell me my luck is that bad. :angry: At least I can't see them in normal lighting. It's just one of those things you know is there and bugs you.

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Ok, I finally got My Low Vis, And I hate the Hands But I knew I would from the Jump so That's not My problem. Are the side panels under the arms in battroid mode supposed to lock? or just sit there kinda loose? I was able to keep every other section firm except those. :ph34r:

i haven't been able to get mine to lock either. Grahams video says they lock, but i can't make mine do that.

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Hey guys... need some help here....

i just bought the ostritch just 2 days ago and happily, I was pasting the stickers and stuff... enjoying this magnificent plane... all was well until yesterday when i embarked on the virgin transformation for this orange bugger... while transforming to battroid mode, i tried to slide down the chestplate but felt immense resistence... i realised that the end of the metal piece was scrapping against the underside of the pilot seat.... after trying and unscrewing for more than an hour the metal piece of the chest plate broke into half

it was a terrible feeling.... i decided to superglue it together... but even then there is still a problem.. the chest plate still cannot slide down!! I really dunno what the problem is... so even if i fix the broken chest plate it still cant be transformed into battroid...

Someone pls pls help me... tell me what I can do... I am desperate.... Thx!

IK

PS. Will the superglue fix the break? Have never broken a metal piece on my toys b4 :(

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Hmm.... While superglue will hold the break, it won't be a strong bond. To fix it properly, you'll either need to order a replacement part (Probably part N4), or use an epoxy that specializes in bonding metal together (yes they do exist).

Now I have that resistance problem too. What I do is I push the metal slider towards the back of the Valk as I slide the chest down. I find that it works very well for me. Being gentle in this stage is also helpful...

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i tried that too... but it din work.... somehow the cockpit was also in the way..... sigh.... looks like its gonna cost me to get the replacement parts..... damn... heart pain..... :(

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i tried that too... but it din work.... somehow the cockpit was also in the way..... sigh.... looks like its gonna cost me to get the replacement parts..... damn... heart pain..... :(

Does HLJ get replacement parts for YAMATO veritechs ?

I broke the joint (L shape) where the leg are suppose to lock into place(inside air intake) when you put it to fighter mode..

can i get a replacement ?

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Does HLJ get replacement parts for YAMATO veritechs ?

I broke the joint (L shape) where the leg are suppose to lock into place(inside air intake) when you put it to fighter mode..

can i get a replacement ?

HLJ will get you the parts if the parts are available from Yamato. Or you can try Monkey-N's parts service.

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Does HLJ get replacement parts for YAMATO veritechs ?

I broke the joint (L shape) where the leg are suppose to lock into place(inside air intake) when you put it to fighter mode..

can i get a replacement ?

HLJ will get you the parts if the parts are available from Yamato. Or you can try Monkey-N's parts service.

TX Man..

this hurts ya know..My yammie going to pieces..even my macross plus veritech broke... the leg hinges..

this sux.... why are they made so frail... judging from the size of the forum too...many ppl are having lots of broken parts...

So now from a C9 is now... C2

*wahhhhhhh*..........crying

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this hurts ya know..My yammie going to pieces..even my macross plus veritech broke... the leg hinges..

this sux.... why are they made so frail... judging from the size of the forum too...many ppl are having lots of broken parts.

What is this ... "veritech" thing?

I don't know if you will be able to get any parts for the older M+ valks, or older VF-1's, from what Monkey-N was saying. The VF-11 FP's legs are quite stable so you might want to consider one of those. As for the Ostrich, there should be no problem getting parts for that at least.

Edited by Anubis

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Posted on Sep 13 2003, 03:17 PM

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Anybody else's Roy 1/48 have sctratch marks on the chestplate or wings? Don't tell me my luck is that bad. At least I can't see them in normal lighting. It's just one of those things you know is there and bugs you.

you're not alone. i also had some scuff marks on the backpack portion of the fighter on my Roy 1/48. talk about bad luck....first time owning a 1/48 and like so many others, cracked the backpack hinge even being very careful about it. still hanging there, might've even relieved some pressure and made it easier to move rather than being so tight. sucks though. has anyone come up with a solution to fixing or improving this backpack hinge problem? should've made that part diecast.

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hi all... am new here...i have a 1/48 VF-1A MAX and i just noticed that one of the tailfin is lacking the skull symbol, only the right side has the sign....anyone has the same problem?? dont know if this is a problem..just thought of sharing this coz am really bothered about this... :(

What tha!? Geez, bad luck mate, that msut be one of the biggest stuff ups Yamato has made. Oh well, just get a skull from the sticker sheet and slap it on (mine on on my mobile phone, and well as the spare UN Spacy logos! :D )

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You could use some very small pieces of double sided tape to help the landing gear stay in place, but the more... extreme solution would be to go and take apart the nose and legs and use clear nail polish to thicken up the landing gear joints.  I've got the same 1J as you do, and it holds up just fine in fighter mode...  It's just that it suffers from mechaosteoperosis...  AKA cracked hips.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm happy to say that the LG don't have a problem when the Super Armor isn't installed, so I think I'll leave things as they are and maybe pick up a stand at some point.

How did your 1J get cracked hips? Anything I should watch out for during transformation?

Sorry for the delay.

Anyways, my 1J suffered a hip crack while in Gerwalk mode. I was trying to give the lower legs the more inverted V formation by rotating the leg inwards. I'm not quite sure what happened, but there was this very audible crack and when I took a peek to see what happened, there was this crack in the hip joint covering (not the ball and plug). It seems stable, but it's staying in fighter mode until I can get my hands on any hip piece (colour doesn't really matter to me, I'll just repaint it to the proper colour) and fix up my damaged Yammie. In the meantime, my Max 1A has play duties.

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hi all... am new here...i have a 1/48 VF-1A MAX and i just noticed that one of the tailfin is lacking the skull symbol, only the right side has the sign....anyone has the same problem?? dont know if this is a problem..just thought of sharing this coz am really bothered about this... :(

What tha!? Geez, bad luck mate, that msut be one of the biggest stuff ups Yamato has made. Oh well, just get a skull from the sticker sheet and slap it on (mine on on my mobile phone, and well as the spare UN Spacy logos! :D )

tough luck.... i had sort of a similar problem... the no. on the wing of my 1/48 vf-1s was '011' instead of '001'... had to paint over it and make use of the sticker... (heartpain!!) :blink:

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