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captain america

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About captain america

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    Alaska Base Survivor

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  1. Hahaha!!! I initially thought that too about the spacing of the figures, but convinced myself that it was just my imagination. Lesson learned! :P
  2. Roughly 9.5 inches to the top of the backpack, and closer to 10 inches to the top of the antenna.
  3. Captain’s log: Friday, December 6th. The fiddly work continues! Pic 01 shows the knee module receiving its customary detail courtesy of the putty-smash technique. A technique which will come back to bite me, but more on that later. The recesses were carved with a sharp blade and slightly oversized, them a Renshape plug was made and said plug was used to shape some polyester putty placed inside the carving. As the putty starts to harden, the plug is pulled out, and the excess putty sanded away. Pics 2 and 3 show the thruster module, which, like the backpack itself was made as hollow as possible to save on weight. Pic 4: here I’m starting to build the thruster nozzles using Renshape walls to hold the putty in place when I insert the plug shown in pic 5 to create the thruster tunnel… Aaaand that’s where things went wrong. Terribly wrong! I suspected it was an overly-optimistic move, simply by virtue of the size of the plug and the high degree of surface contact. It was only once I was committed to the move that I realized that the plug was firmly stuck inside the thruster unit. So stuck in fact, that the only way to remove it was with a hammer and chisel, thereby destroying the thruster unit. Sigh. To boot, my shop vac died, and the bearings in my drill press gave up the ghost. In Canuckistan, you no make model; model make YOU (crazy!) Alas, that which is broken can be fixed (or in this case replaced) so after lots of work… Ta-daa! Pics 6 and 7 show the reconstituted thruster module looking even better! Pic 08: don’t you just love how I use improvised Renshape Jenga blocks to hold my models up? But wait, there’s more!! Pics 09-11: Did I mention that it can also free-stand? A little hot glue helped with that, but it demonstrates that the kit is well balanced. Now that most of the big parts are done, I can start to tackle the more fine detailing. The adventure continues next week: stay tuned!
  4. Thanks. I suffered a triple-whammy when both my drill press and shop-vac conked-out on me, and to top it off, I had to start the backpack thrusters over from scratch after a very dubious putty-smash experiment went very wrong. It happens. Oh, and a little less than 7 hours left on the preorder special.
  5. No update today; dealing with some technical issues. Will be back next week.
  6. Captain’s log: Friday, November 22 Dusty. If I could resume my week in one word, that would be it. The previous week was spent predominantly on the mill and lathe, while this week was more about the Dremel… And all the wonderful dust it makes! Pic 1: the lower legs start out blocky, but once I’ve traced the profile onto the Renshape blocks, I cn start digging into it with the rough grinding tool. I always leave a half milimeter or so of extra material, simply to avoid removing too much. Pic 2: the same part, now shaped with 80 grit sandpaper. I use specially shaped sanding blocks and tools to keep the surface even. Pic 3: Back to the Dremel once again. I can now start to carve the roundness into the part. If you look carefully, you’ll see that I leave a small center strip (the highest point in the cure) untouched by the rotary tool. I can then proceed to blend the shapes into a proper, smooth curve with sandpaper while preserving all my dimensions. Pic 4: It’s not what you think it is, honest! Sure, it looks like I’ve made an unGodly mess, but I really haven’t. Pic 5: this is also not a mess, despite appearances. In order to get parts that fit together like a glove, I will finish one surface of a part, then apply mold release to it and mate an adjoining part to it with putty. When that putty begins to harden, I can carefully separate both parts and have a perfect fit. Pic 06: while it’s not nearly done, the cockpit shaping for this kit is extremely tedious and long because of its many bizarre compound curves and odd parts arrangement which must securely interlock. The N-Ger cockpit was quite the cake-walk by comparison! Pics 7-10: It’s finally starting to look like a power suit! This is still just a rough fit test, and the thighs need to be more tucked-up against the body, but it’s looking great so far! *********************
  7. I'm the little minion that vacuums the shop! It only takes about 10 minutes to properly clean both machines. However filthy they may look in the building process, this is what they look like after every 2-3 days or so. The dust that comes from fine grinding (Dremel, drill press) is the nasty one, because it's very fine and gets everywhere. Most of the time when I'm doing either of those operations, I have a shop vac running and have to change the filter out every 4-5 days. Lots of critical maintenance goes on behind the scenes, without which the entire operation would grind to a halt... Much pun intended.
  8. Pocher-Hornby 1/8 scale die-cast Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4 Roadster. This is a massive unbuilt model kit new-in-box, no missing parts. Die-cast and plastic body panels come pre-painted in satin pearl white from the factory. Discontinued item, asking $907 firm. MEDICOM RAH NEO EVA-02 Gamma. MISB $567 Volks 1/100 LED MIRAGE V3 resin kit. Outer cellophane is open, all inner bags factory sealed. $265 Volks 1/100 Knight of Gold V3 resin kit. Inner bags have been opened, but all parts are accounted for. The tip of one of the toes arrived broken from Japan and was fixed with a brass reinforcement pin. $303 Bandai 1/72 Millenium Falcon Perfect Grade lighting edition kit MIB $363 Hotwheels 1/18 Ferrari F1 2000 Michael Schumacher World Champion edition. Car has full cigarette livery, extra surface details and a red iridium visor added. $137 Please note that all prices are in USD and include shipping for both the US and Canada. Thanks for looking!
  9. Captain’s log: Friday, November 15th. Holy cow, that’s a lot of dust!! Seriously, my workshop hasn’t been this filthy since the Norbert Gerard project, and I’m only just getting started. Thankfully, I’ve been able to do more of my shaping on the mill as opposed to using the rotary tool for those operations. It’s a slower, but more precise process. The flight pack is simply huge, so I decided to break the main structure into two components, if only to get it to fit in my milling vise. IMG_1625: while this cross-section milling is quite tedious, it gets the job done with great precision. I started the process off by carefully grinding a small section of the cross-section on the drill press, then the mill (the rougher cuts) are done on the lathe. IMG_1626: Same part, different orientation. You’ll notice that the milled section from the previous pic was sanded down almost completely IMG_1627: Aaaand down the other side of the slope. It’s important not to remove too much material at this stage; i can take my time and hand sand right down to the edge of the template afterwards. IMG_1628: I used a little ghetto hack to open up the missile housings by using the grinding stone normally fitted to the drill press, which you can see here. I started the process off with the Dremel to open up the cavities, otherwise trying to remove that much material with the mill-mounted grinder would have induced terrible vibrations and risk damaging the part itself, if not the milling table. IMG_1629: Now that I have the missile pod openings, I’m going to need to make those bulbous covers. Normally I’d turn the part out of cast resin barstock, but it’s so big that modeling board is the only way to go. IMG_1630: This is the bottom part of the flight pack, which has undergone much the same process that was shown previously, and has been hand-sanded into shape. IMG_1632: The angled part at bottom-left is actually the chassis of the mecha. It doesn’t look like much, but everything will be bolted to it. The knee components were also made, and the lower legs started. IMG_1633: the flight unit, now bonded together and tediously sanded into shape. The hollowed center section will provide a substantial weight savings, and will undergo still more strategic bulk removal in the time ahead. IMG_1636: The chassis and crude cockpit parts are already beginning to take shape. Even at this early stage, the parts are looking better than I’d anticipated. You can’t tell, but I’m actually giddy behind the camera. That’s all I’ve got for this week, I’m afraid. That flight pack was practically its own mecha project, and I’m glad that the rough shaping for it is done. Next week I’ll have more done with the body and legs, so it might actually start to look like a power suit… Stay tuned! 15 days remain for preordering... Tick-tock.
  10. I actually put a lot of thought into the design. Hopefully it will be well received.
  11. A teaser for my original design project. The mecha will be unveiled on December 20th, and kit release in March 2020.
  12. I'll concentrate on the actual mecha for the time being; that's already a big, complex project that will require my full attention. I wouldn't rule-out a standing Milia figure down the line, though.
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