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About Salamander

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    Sharon Apple Concert Attendee

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  1. Just wet-sand everything (also gives a smoother finish). You only need a small bowl of water to dip the sandpaper into now and then.
  2. The Runabout is nice and big (you're talking about the 1/72 one, right?), but unfortunately lacks an interior. There's an aftermarket resin kit to fix that, but A) it's expensive and B) the pictures I've seen of the parts don't make it look good (mediocre detail, limited section of the interior, very little parts for the price). So when (or is that "if I ever"?) I build mine, I'll likely scratch the interior...
  3. The series was licensed for US release, but that never occurred. A HK bootleg DVD of the first 13 episodes with pretty awful subs exists. Otherwise there are the Japanese region 2 DVDs, which can be followed quite well without knowledge of Japanese if you forfeit the discussions between characters of what it is to be a hero, being good and bad, and the like. The series starts off pretty slowly, and is more of an animated tokusatsu show than a regular anime. However, starting about episode 20 things get darker very very quickly, including character deaths and the heroes being beaten into a pulp and having to retreat, getting chased by the bad guys etc. as it turns out the TV idol aspect of the plot is well...fake... The show is virtually blood-free, and also features very little fanservice. It also manages to have a truly heart-breaking resolution of the love triangle between the mysterious waif "bad guy", her protector, and the hero. The toys are awesome, if somewhat plagued by premature joint wear and other minor quality control issues on the first waves. They can be seen as the predecessors of Busou Shinki (minus the sexy minigirl aspect).
  4. Some of the copyrights and trademarks have not yet lapsed, because they were renewed in the 1990s in Europe, and for Machine Robo they've been used time and again in Asia since 2001. So this comic is pretty much America-only... Now that depends on the jurisdiction, because the situation is different in Europe. In Europe, Bandai marketed most of Robo Machine and later Challenge of the Gobots including Rocklords and various Tonka-designed toys, and in some countries the cartoon was dubbed with some modifications. France also got Machine Robo Revenge of Cronos, renamed "Revenge of the Gobots", with Gobot names somewhat randomly distributed among the characters. The video tape I own of that show credits Hanna-Barbera/Tonka and Bandai... Infodump: It says "Future Machine" because that was its Robo Machine name (which is also the only European release of Psycho that ever was). Future Machine is a modified release (neutered launcher but still includes missiles in early versions) of the Japanese Psychoroid version, which was not exactly a Machine Robo toy but tied into the Cobra anime. Robo Machine is Bandai's attempt at marketing Machine Robo (the original Popy version, not Revenge of Cronos) in Europe, starting 1983. The early DX Robo Machine boxes are literally almost exactly the same as the early DX Machine Robo boxes, just with translated text. That said, some of the later Gobots designs, both Super Gobots and regular ones, are pretty complex, blowing away most pre-Beast Wars Transformers...
  5. I do hope they realise that although Hasbro owns both brands, they do not own the looks of the characters (Hanna Barbera changed versions excluded) since those rights lay with Bandai and Ashi Pro. And with Bandai relaunching Machine Robo (which the Gobots toys were based on) this might end up getting ugly...
  6. The Wave resin kits are indeed fully articulated.
  7. I wouldn't call the Club-M kits "super-rare". You can still find them for 2,000-5,000 yen a piece on Y! Auctions Japan and Mandarake...
  8. Ah, the old blue plastic problem that haunts certain old toys and model kits. It's none of your fault, some plastics age really badly. Brown plastic can do the same, and you can also Google "gold plastic syndrome" (let's just say that some Transformers crumble to dust as if they are in the process of being eaten by TF: The Movie Unicron...).
  9. Tamiya's Flat Base is not a clear coat, it is used when mixing your own paints to create flat paints.
  10. <...continued from elsewhere...> "Nooo, Lunamaria! Don't! Don't cross over to the dark side! Don't blow up the shrine!" ...sigh, there goes my quiet afternoon visit...
  11. So the weather kinda sucks today and it's so dark it's almost impossible to take pictures in natural light... Then this bastard showed up: "What's that shadow? Oh f*ck!" "RUN!!!" <...continued elsewhere...>
  12. For example, I picked up this cute little kit by Fujimi: After assembling some parts I did a dry-fit of almost everything prior to painting: Some paint added: I didn't pay too much attention to Fujimi's official painting instructions, as the colors they mention don't even match their own example on their site here, and just did whatever seemed fine to me. Then I added a little base (made with left-over resin poured into a Tupperware lid), with some gravel (actually scale HO beach sand) and Tamiya Diorama Texture paint for the earth: That was yesterday. It's pretty much done by now, but I need to wait until tomorrow to make some daylight pictures of the finished model...
  13. Wrong distance from subject? If I want a smooth finishing, I usually use Mr. Surfacer 1500 spray cans. A slightly wet coat evens out nicely. I don't seem to be able to get the same result with Tamiya's fine surface primer...
  14. I think I've seen that one on Y! Auctions Japan exactly once...and it went for an ungodly amount of money. My favourite Club-M/Yellow Submarine kit has to be the 1/72 YF-19 (because it includes the full weapon load + fold booster).
  15. It really, really depends on the kit. Many regular non-anime model kits (and older anime kits) also have bad parts separation. Some resin kits have better parts separation than plastic kits, e.g. Volks' color resin kits. I personally think part preparation on resin kits takes more time than on plastic kits, but painting usually isn't that much more work (getting the paint to stay put on the other hand...).
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