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Chas

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Posts posted by Chas

  1. Yellow's will have to be a compromise if you want to do it without mixing and in a spray can.

    The instructions call out a 90:10 mix of H56 intermediate blue with H5 blue. So a little bit darker, more saturated than straight intermediate blue. In Tamiya's Ts spray paint I would be looking at ts57 blue violet. It may be a little on the lighter side in tone, but in that line it's the closest I can see, and it doesn't  look that far off.

  2. On 9/13/2023 at 10:18 PM, 505thAirborne said:

    So many great builds & customs, looking good everyone!! B))

    Here is my update with the Aoshima Ride Armor kit. Still a pain in the butt to assemble but once that part is done, painting is a bit easier. I'll just have to do a lot of masking on the parts. Once this baby has the decals on & a Flory's wash she should be looking really good in the end. 

    I've learned quite a few things with this first attempt so that (fingers crossed) Yellow's Ride Armor should go much smoother.

     

    20230913_172636.jpg

    20230913_172726.jpg

    Hey 505th I meant to comment on this earlier. The Mospeada is looking really good. What colour did you decide to go with in the end.

  3. 1 hour ago, wm cheng said:

     

    @Chas Gorgeous clean build, love that ship too.  Any plans on weathering or finishing ideas?

    No plans to do any weathering right now. Struggling to rescribe some of these ultra fine panel lines before I do the clear coat, panel lining, and decals.

    Pretty much resigned to losing a lot of the smaller shapes on the surface. The lines are just too fine, and have rounded corners - always had trouble rescribing rounded shapes.

     

  4. 49 minutes ago, electric indigo said:

    @Chas the Cordoba is such a great design. Anything special planned for her? I always thought it would look great in a Chris Foss scheme.

    Nothing quite as 'out there' as Chris Foss' s colour schemes. The instructions call for an all over light gray, but I think I'm gonna do a 1:1 mix of flat aluminum and light gray with some dark gray details ant the standard yellow markings.

  5. https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/plain-opaque-white-polystrene-sheets

    Scroll down and look for the thickness you want. Most brick and motor hobby shops and model train shops will carry a variety of evergreen products or find an online shop that has what you want in stocks.

    That Mospeada is looking pretty darned sweet 505th, and electric indigo I completely agree with you about that chopper! ( of course your modelling skills and great photography go a long way in swaying my opinion)

    Just about done the assembly on this 1:3000 Hasegawa Creator Series Cordoba model from Crusher Joe. Definitely one of my favorite Kawamori designs!

    20230914_214120.jpg.e9c45ff96e041333481550c06e8088f2.jpg

  6. Holy crap! That's some fantastic engineering and machining. You've got an awesome set of skills. Love seeing your stuff- always leaves me dumbfounded.

    Here's a look at the 1:100 VF-1S before and after oil weathering.

    20230904_131037.jpg.347917807f727ff70ac0fd6117a24729.jpg

    And the torso done wings not.

    20230904_132619.jpg.882bab904a10e97e4a64487280b36466.jpg

    I have a problem. I cannot leave decals unscuffed. :pardon:

  7. It's the colour recommendation in the instructions for Tamiya's 1:32 Type 21 Mitsubishi Zero kits, so if you want to see what it looks like sprayed on just do an image search for those and you'll get a good idea.

    It may be a little light, but with weathering that should work out fine I'd think.

    (Just realized Stig's ride armour is numbered 21 and is really close to the colour the type 21 Zero . . . Hmmmm🤔 Anyone else think that is more than a coincidence?)

  8. 1 hour ago, 505thAirborne said:

     . . .Does anyone here have a recommendation of what color to use for the Green? Is there a Tamiya or Mr. Hobby color that would come close in Spray can form?

     

    The closest Tamiya Spay can I can think of would have to be AS-29 Gray Green.

  9. So in love with your painting and finishing skills. Always so clean and perfect.

    I've put the scratch/bash SBY carrier away for a bit. That's what comes from making it up as I go - I tend to take long breaks while I mull over where to go with it.

    In the mean while I had a go at finishing up this 1:100 Wave VF-1J battroid. As usual I think I went a little too far with the weathering, particularly the 'chipping', but it's  too late now. :unknw:

    Just a few minor touch-ups and off the bench it goes.

    20230830_131456.jpg.0562a40b306e2f023ed64e0626c72a43.jpg

     

  10. 39 minutes ago, Raikkonen said:

    I agree about the piston. But... the whole sculpt is different from the artwork. 

    Yeah, kinda makes you wonder, if the design changed so much from the art work to the artifact why they would bother to show them together.

  11. That piston in the front of the shin area is bugging me. Why would you need such a large piston in that spot? It's  not visible in the artwork, which I think looks better ( in that area at least).

    Screenshot_20230805-204918_Firefox.jpg.81dca27fc2dd8e3222bc31a631c74041.jpgScreenshot_20230805-205014_Firefox.jpg.c551acc7294579d2483c92b161361ef9.jpgScreenshot_20230805-204840_Firefox.jpg.2c7dbe4b36e6812731ab2c67aaae2687.jpgScreenshot_20230805-204852_Firefox.jpg.f60508f03e55dd10e13252d8eaf1bc4d.jpgScreenshot_20230805-204904_Firefox.jpg.2ae20d2e8c1f873274e56eebeab578b9.jpg

  12. That illustrated three-quarter view of the head looks a lot better. On the shots of the prototype the raised chest piece blocks the bottom of head, which creates a very Optimus Prime looking mask effect.

    SDCC-23-Toynami-032.jpg.573720d035d551b7d03e396d917e7ae6.jpgimage.png.a10c8939c49a12ad9f1e658a9c74e80e.png.ca5df0746daac60330cce03c8ac9a9e5.png

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