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Posts posted by Chas

  1. Started working on a' retro-future' dio a few years ago and decided to get back to it. Here are a couple of the pieces so far. Pretty messy as I have been trying out some paint techniques.

    p.s.(Sorry cell phone is all I have for pics)





  2. Yep, it looks like those tabs on the blade are there to provide a means to slide the blades out of the wheel housing once they have been fully retracted. Without the tabs,  the fully retracted blades wold have no means by which to be extricated.

  3. About the feet. Way back in 2006 I posted a thread (really a step by step walk through ) of the mods I did while making a kit-bashed Gerwalk fro a Hase. battroid and fighter kit. It was a similar pose as what you are attempting and i went with extending the feet up into the gap.You can check it out here and see what it looked like to judge if you want to try something like it.


  4. Off topic I know, but it's a shame that those A. S. BSG figures are the Tokyo 2040 Hardsuits only. Got a few ideas for modding the kit figure to proper size and proportions though so hopefully that works out.


    * Correction it's not the Tokyo 2040 suit it's the Bubblegum Crash suit.

  5. Well they have redone the main gun booms because on the cruiser mode kit they are just the DYRL version with new parts for the front terminus point. I wonder if I bought one of theses and recast the booms if I could make them work on the cruiser kit?

  6. Interesting, that is the SDFM version, but the cruiser mode they released as the SDFM was basically a re-pop of their DYRL cruiser mode with the Prometheus and Daedalus and a few altered pieces. I wonder if they are going to do a new cruiser mode that is actually a true SDFM version?

  7.  The text descriptions have been posted at HLJ and indicate that it is a s the good Captain had indicated.

    Sorry for my brain fart earlier. It should have been clear - I'd just forgotten that these kits, at one time came packaged together.

  8. So they are the old single mode 1:72 kits from Imai? Ok, but the term 'Conversion' is a bit odd 'cus they don't transform at all. For a second there I thought they were some kind of additional parts to allow the building of each kit into either of the three various modes, but I couldn't figure out how that would work. For $25.00 bucks It batter be all three in a single pack A-La


  9. Sorry, but I don't get it.

    Because the gun on the head is cast in gray you now have to paint the whole kit?

    Why not just buy a few bottles of cheap craft paint and try to mix up a match to paint the head-gun?

    It's so small you could probably get away with just dipping it.

    Try painting it white first and then trial and error til you get a colour you are happy with. Seems to me that would be the path of least resistance in this situation.

  10. @arbit are you talking about resin casting? I wouldn't recommend using liquid resin in an epoxy putty mould. If you are asking about bubbles in liquid resin used in silicone moulds that is very different process. Wit liquid resin in a silicone  mould you would need to use a vacuum chamber (pressure pot) of some sort to force the air out of the resin. Epoxy Putty casting is a different process that is good for recreating small parts in a 'quick and dirty' fashion, but I wouldn't use it for large parts or a whole kit.

  11. 7 hours ago, arbit said:

    Chas, I find its hard to avoid bubbles in the cast with small parts. Whats the solution?

    Just realized that you may be referring to a 'Short-Shot' where there is part of the mould that does not get filled (in this case with putty) due to air being trapped (usually in a corner etc...) If that is indeed what you mean the solution is to create a path for the air to escape - a 'vent'. I usually poke a hole in the offending area such that the air can escape through to the topside, or Bottom of the mould. This way when you pop your moulding putty in and close the mould- pressing firmly you will know that area is filled when you see the putty coming out of the vent.

  12. Not sure what you mean.

    The recast part should look like the part that the mould was made from. If you make a mould from a melted beam saber then the recast part will look like a melted beam saber - except it will be made of epoxy putty, not soft, translucent, coloured plastic.

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