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About yellowlightman

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  1. There's one on Yahoo Auctions right now: https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/l517280346
  2. Thanks! Unfortunately, this kit doesn't include any handheld gunpods. Not sure if it's worth it to try and scratchbuild one from one of the wing hardpoint gunpods it does include, though. Yup! I ended up pushing them in a bit more. Still rough around the edges but it's coming together. The studs on the shoulders and knees had a lot of air bubbles so I removed them entirely and replaced them with 2mm brass rod. The detail on the inner legs was lacking, with a couple of recessed areas where the Metal Siren's "missile pods" pop out. Unfortunately, both legs had massive mold lines running through them and rather than trying to salvage the detail I decided to fill, sand, and add similar detail with plastic sheet instead. The lineart is vague enough to not really show if they're recessed or not, and having them stick out a bit made more sense to me. The vents near the knees were a mess, so I just replaced them with generic aftermarket vernier parts. At this point, I still need to sort out the hands (the fists included in the kit aren't great but I don't have anything else similarly sized to replace them with) and the entire backpack and wings situation. Once those are done I'll be hitting it with some primer to see what else needs to get cleaned up.
  3. Funny you mention that, I actually ended up switching over the elbow joints to that style of joint since they fit into the recesses of the forearms and (as you mentioned) offered better mobility. Excuse the bad picture, it's late and I didn't feel like setting up lighting for a better one. I ended up cutting back the shoulders a bit and added a polycap to the neck, though it doesn't really need one. I ended up using a bigger joint that I would have preferred for the hips to support all that weight, but I'll likely sink those in a bit more to reduce the bow-legged look. I'm also not thrilled with the knees and I'm thinking I'll end up cutting notches into the thighs to sink those in.
  4. I'm a big fan of Macross II despite all of its (numerous) faults and I'm a big fan of old garage kits despite their (numerous) faults, but the old B-Club 1/100 Macross II kits really aren't great. They're from that era riiiiight before you started to see polycaps in a lot of mecha kits and the result was some pretty awkward posing that didn't quite reflect the dynamic poses you see in the anime itself. I mean, come on: Anyways, I've got one of the B-Club Metal Siren kits and recently started thinking it might be a worthwhile project if I tried to add some polycaps to give it a bit more movement. Granted, I'm not hoping for a full range of movement or anything resembling modern standards of poseability, but ideally I'd like to find a little flexibility so that it doesn't look quite so rigid (and adding polycaps might help "stretch" out the arms and legs a bit and keep it from looking so stumpy, check out the legs in the VF-2J kit above -- they all look like that). Oh, and I've never done anything quite like this before so who knows how it'll go. I began with the shoulders because that seemed to be the easiest place to start. Thankfully the design of this kit is such that for most joints, it's designed with a deep concave area on one part and a long protruding piece that fits into it. In theory that gives the builder a bit of flexibility with how they drill and pin the pieces together, but it's not quite what I want to do. The upside is that with a bit of cutting it should give me enough ample space to put in some polycaps. This won't be true for all joints on the kit, but definitely is for the shoulder and elbow joints. I'm using a bit of wall adhesive to keep the polycaps in place, which is also why the elbow joint doesn't fit quite as snugly into the forearm as it will when I'm finally ready to glue everything together. Unfortunately, ball joint pieces aren't going to give great flexibility for shoulder and elbow movement, but any other type of polycap joint would require some serious cutting. It'll do. Here you can see what the joints look like at the kit originally was designed. The polycaps definitely don't sit quite as flush, but I think once there's some paint on everything they'll be harder to spot.
  5. yellowlightman

    Hi-Metal R

    It's not that strange. L-Gaim was a Nippon Sunrise show so Bandai likely holds all licensing rights to it. FSS would require working with Mamoru Nagano and (possibly?) Newtype magazine publisher Kadokawa for rights. I don't keep up with FSS much, but I believe it also just went through a substantial retcon to bring the designs more in-line with Nagano's Gothicmade.
  6. yellowlightman

    Hi-Metal R

    Huh. I ordered mine from HLJ and they told me they weren't able to get replacement parts and the item was discontinued so I could ship the whole thing back for a full refund or keep it as-is for a partial credit refund. I opted for the second option because worst case it won't be *that* hard to modify the piece to fit.
  7. yellowlightman

    Hi-Metal R

    Huh. I ordered mine from HLJ and they told me they weren't able to get replacement parts and the item was discontinued so I could ship the whole thing back for a full refund or keep it as-is for a partial credit refund. I opted for the second option because worst case it won't be *that* hard to modify the piece to fit.
  8. yellowlightman

    Hi-Metal R

    I also ended up with two left side leg armor attachment pieces (and a miscast, partially unpainted gunpod, but whatever) on my Hikaru 1A. I'm not able to get a replacement attachment piece from the shop where I purchased it, so if anyone ended up with two right side pieces and wants to do an exchange shoot me a PM!
  9. They actually just released a new expansion this week with a massive Pacific island: https://arma3.com/tanoa
  10. yellowlightman

    Hi-Metal R

    Someone linked these earlier in the thread, but the Sankei 1/80 scale papercraft models should be pretty close to perfect for HMR dioramas: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/search?typ1_c=104&cat=rail&sold=0&state=0&sortid=0&target=maker&searchkey=Sankei&spage=1&Scale=1%2f80 Depending on size, you could probably also use HO-scale train buildings (1/87) or 20mm tabletop game terrain (1/72).
  11. Recently posted this on my new-ish blog, zimmerit, and thought it might be of interest to you guys on MW. It's an interview with Noboru Ishiguro (Orguss), Katsuhisa Yamada (MOSPEADA) and Ryousuke Takahashi (VOTOMS) that took place in 1984, shortly after all three TV shows wrapped up. GOODBYE, SOLDIERS: DIRECTOR’S ROUNDTABLE WITH ISHIGURO, TAKAHASHI AND YAMADA
  12. I had a bizarre Macross World flashback the other day when I had to buy a money order for the first time in nearly a decade, which somehow triggered memories of reading about a huge MW group buy from a Japanese kit manufacturer (involving some big postal money orders, if I recall correctly) that went bad and ended up turning into a multi-year ordeal.
  13. If you're only planning on releasing it online, you'd probably be better off starting a Macross website. PDFs can be nifty for tablets, but there's not a whole lot they can do that a decently coded website couldn't. Plus, with an actual site managed through blog or CMS software, you'd benefit from the pages being indexable by search engines and more conducive to discussion (via comments, etc) than you would with a PDF. If you're intent on doing a closed-format fanzine through a PDF, you might as well look at options for printing, as well. MagCloud does a really good job of that, although it's not particularly cheap. If you're curious about the specifics of that sort of stuff, let me know, as I handled organizational, editing and design duties for the two Colony Drop fanzines.
  14. We only got the ST165 and ST185, and the ST165 was the first of the GT4s. The earlier RWD Celicas were still used to rallying, though: http://www.groupbrally.com/toyota.shtml
  15. Also, it's worth keeping in mind the 22R was a truck motor. It was 2.4l and really torquey, 137ft lbs. The older 20R motors were used in the Hiluxes and the 22RE was used in the first generation 4Runner, so it was a bit out of place in the "sportier" Celica.
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