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arbit

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About arbit

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  1. derex, Looks like the seam line drill sergeants got to you before I did. Get those legs smooth and shiny!!!
  2. Looks fantastic Thom! Could be an 80s movie prop.
  3. Thanks. I have a lot to learn about gears to figure this out. I'm thinking about a double rack and pinion. There are two options, a long thread vs. a perpendicular worm gear. From what I know the worm gear will wear down gears from the friction and may slow down the speed. The long thread may be hard to stabilize. I wonder if anyone knows which option is preferable and why?
  4. Yes, I've wracked my brain trying other ideas. Draw me up what your thinking: the belt drive and the "mechanical linkages".
  5. There are 1/72 Blast Deflectors on Shapeways with workable actuators, but they are too large to fit my Trumpeter deck and other kits I am aware of. So you have to build your own flight deck, which is probably a good idea, because all you need is a 5mm thick pla plate and add the details, which I had to do anyway.
  6. This is a test of my mechanism to raise the Blast Deflectors. It has some issues, so I need to make it more reliable or come up with a different approach. The way it works is the styrene bar raises the three deflector panels by pushing them up, and then the deflectors drop by gravity. I may actually end up using paper hinges, because I need zero resistance for the deflectors to drop back down. The angle of the bar causes them to rise in sequence. The problem with the twin motors is they get out of synch. The possible solution I found is that if the limit switches are on only one motor, with each up/down cycle they can realign, because the bar hits the motor on one side and is forced to a stop, while the other motor catches up and hits the limit switch. (I need to add a second force stop at the top of one thread.) But I have a couple problems with this solution: 1) The motor on the right sometimes locks when the bar hits it and forces the motor to stop (I ordered small springs to see if that prevents the locking). Even if I switch motors, the locking still occurs on the right side, so it might be an unlevel platform or a slightly off angle (The threads have to be perfectly parallel). 2) I don't know if this forced stop for a couple seconds while the other motor catches up will burn out the engine. So I am sending out the Workbench Bat Signal: I am using a boring 1/72 Trumpeter FLight Deck, but trying to add some details to spruce it up, and photo etch tie-downs.
  7. Not sure which TV/movie version that is. I am strictly TOS, and your wessel has the classic lines I like. Nice start Pengbuzz. Hope you mix in details from different line art and screen grabs, in addition to the kit.
  8. Kylwell, That's a nice little shop. I wonder if their turrets are fully drilled out tubes for lighting. Mechtech, the scratch work looks gorgeous. I almost don't want you to prime it, because I like the different materials! ...I need to get a mill! Derex, How is the Q-Rau going? The thing must have nightmarish gaps to fill. Warm up your files and putty
  9. Thanks for the nice comments. I'm putting her on a temporary base, while I work on the flight deck and lift.
  10. Thanks Thom. You dont know it, but your comments influenced me to think up a cooler cockpit. The problem decals were only the Diamondbacks. The Hasegawa decals were just fine.
  11. I've put up a new WIP thread in the Model Kits section for the bluetooth valk if anyone is interested.
  12. This is the step-by-step WIP for installing Xigrid's Gear: First, I use the existing gears to mark the full open and full close positions on the wing arms. At the intersecting lines, I drill 0.9mm pin holes for placing the 1mm Dowel Pins, which will connect the Gear to the wing arms. Second, I cut a rectangular hole to fit the Gear Track. This hole will be elongated later for the motor as well. Then I mark out a line on the arms measured to fit the Gear Track. I sand this down until the Gear sits flush on the fuselage. The arms are the most important part for motorizing the Gear. They hold the Gear Track and the motor. All the wires for the leds also run under the Track, and out from under the valk. There are no wires impeding the Gear itself. Below you can see all the wires running under the track. And the Track is epoxied above the wires for the Gear to run without any wires in the way. Then all the wires run out the bottom. I have prepared magnets to connect the gun pod and a small tube to take the wires into the base. Below you can see the placement of the two limit switches, the motor, thread, and knurl nut. These tiny limit switches are Normally Open, therefore you need to use coding that tells the motor to stop when a limit switch is hot. The wing led wires also run under the track with some give to allow for movement. All the wires come cleanly out the bottom. There are no other electronics in the valk. All the resistors and control boards sit outside the valk and will be hidden in the base. The components running the valk are an Arduino Micro, HB-06 Bluetooth Driver, and TB6612FNG DC Dual Motor Driver. The entire project prototype below will be hidden in the base.
  13. Installing the gear to motorize the valk requires the following parts: - Xigfrids Shapeways 3D printed gear - 1x M2 nut - 1x M2 * 6mm knurled nut - 1x M2 * 16mm cup point socket screw - 1x 6mm planetary gear motor 3v 242RPM - 2x Micro dvd Limit Switches N/O (9x5.5x2mm) - 2x 1mm x 5mm Dowel Pins
  14. The landing gear and wing leds are 0402 smds which I get pre-wired on ebay. I drill a hole to pass the wires through the gears, attach the leds with epoxy, and conceal them before closing the parts. I light block from the rear of the gears so they only light from the front I use some Humbrol masking fluid to protect the light outlets on the landing gear and the wings before painting. The wings are a bit tricky because you have to dremel out a channel for the wires and 0402 smds on the inside of both halves without drilling though the oiter side of the thin wings. I also light block the insides of the wings completely before sealing.
  15. To light the engines, I used 4x 3535 smd neopixels for each engine. They are the smallest I could find measuring 3.5mm. Three of the neopixels are attached to 10x 0.25mm plastic optical fibers each. The fourth neopixel is for the main engine. I use a table vice and magnifying glass for soldering work, then I use 5 min epoxy for linking the smds together and to connect the fiber with some shrink tubing, a little trick I learned from NZEOD. I light block the neopixels with some polyeurethane primer so that the light only comes out the fiber and the main engine. All the 4 neopixels are controlled by one pair of wires led out of the completed leg part (neopixels actually have 3 wires each, unlike normal leds with a pair of wires). Part of the idea is to minimize the number of wires. To fit the wiring I also use the thinnest wires I can, such as 0.25 or 0.30mm enamel (magnet) wires. I use the clear parts again for the main engine to diffuse the 4th led, and I light block most of the part with black primer and metalic paint. I also drill some holes in the part to lead out the 30x strands of fiber. I blink the 4 separate leds at different colors and speed untill I get the effect I want. I then trim the fiber to the edge of the engines. I got this idea from an awesome Yamato Gun Gauge build. At the end of my above video you can also see that I use a bit of clear pla plate sanded down to diffuse the main engine led.
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