magicsp00n

I *just* packed mine away or I'd snap a photo but yes, it does fit in the Detolf just fine.

Wow, yeah, that looks really good. I'm going to do that to mine. Thanks for the tip.

Yeah, mine is flaking off all over as well. I don't know who thought that material was a good idea.

Does anybody know if the Playmates Classic lions are compatible with the Legendary Defender lions? Can we have modern black lion body with classic lion limbs?

Mine finally showed up today. My first since the Yamato era. Holy cow, this is some nice hand candy. I agree that the screw covers are a little goofy but overall a really nice piece of work.

I've been dealing with plastic yellowing as well, and had some success in reversing it. A while back I discovered that, unbeknownst to me, while I was away at work my wife had been opening the blinds and letting direct sunlight on to my display cases. She said she felt they "needed more light". I didn't discover it until it was too late and my 1/55 VF-1S, Beagle Ride Armors, and others had already gone yellow. We've since put UV film on the windows and we keep the blinds closed. After checking out article on Retr0bright and related approaches, here's what I have used. I'm not a chemist so I can't answer how or why it works but it does. I had before / after comparison photos but I can't find them now. I'll see if I can dig them up. * Reptile UVB light bulb in a gooseneck lamp - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8RHTYU/ * OxiClean powder - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QKIHOY6 (I've tried generic store brand and it didn't seem to work as well, for whatever reason.) * 3% hydrogen peroxide liquid, what you can get at any pharmacy or grocery store. I get mine from Target. I dissolve a few pinches of the OxiClean into a bowlful of the hydrogen peroxide, put the yellowed parts into the solution, and put it under the UV lamp. Fairly quickly - a day or two - the yellow is eliminated or significantly reduced, in most cases to where I can't tell there was any yellowing without a close direct comparison to a non-yellowed part. It's cheap, fast, and easy. Some notes! * Hey, don't look at the light. I cover it all up with tinfoil. * DO NOT put metal pieces into the solution. They will rust in a matter of hours. * The mixture will bubble and foam up a bit. Leave room in your container to avoid spilling over. * I used to fuss about trying to get the yellowed side of the plastic to face up toward the light in the solution until I realized it's not necessary. The light causes a reaction in the hydrogen peroxide, the hydrogen peroxide affects the plastic. * It has not adversely affected any tampo paint. I'm sure you wouldn't want to put stickers into the mix, though. * After awhile the hydrogen peroxide becomes just water, so you may need to mix up a new batch, depending on how long you're soaking the parts.

I just got the HLJ email.

I agree those GBPs look nice. I also had never seen the TV Max 1A before. Is that an upcoming release?

All right, that's awesome. I'm buying.

I use the Badger hose with an in-line trap. This guy: http://www.ehobbies.com/bad502025.html Works well enough for me, but I don't do a whole lot of airbrushing; just a Gundam model here and there.

The 12" Cantis are vinyl, very nice pieces made in pretty small quantities. If anybody is interested, I have a red one for sale. Shoot me a PM with any questions. It's the only one (I believe) which comes with the jacket he wears in the show.

I strongly recommend getting a set of decals you don't care about, from a hobby shop or a cheap model kit, and using those to practice with. Play around with them, rip a few up, and get a good feel for how they work. Until I sat down and messed with a set of decals I didn't care about, I was always fearful that I'd screw something up and avoided them. Once you get the hang of it, waterslides are easy to use.

I caught the movie last night. I guess I got the non-mosaic Dr. M version. I didn't even know they were doing that until I read this thread... I thought it was okay, but hollow. It reproduced the look of the comic without all the depth.

Yeah, the screen just fell out while I was transforming it. I didn't know what it was supposed to be attached to until I was done and looking at photos of it with the scope up.

I picked up my Toynami Mospeada yesterday, and I'm really impressed with it. Quite a piece of engineering. I've got one issue, though: my scope appears to have come without whatever holds the hinge together. (Or it's disappeared somehow.) It's just two pieces. Can anybody give me a view of theirs and tell me what keeps it together? Is it a tiny screw, or just a pin? Metal, plastic? Thanks.

I'm also a game developer. (plug: my latest game came out last week - try it out!) So far I haven't been caught in the rolling waves of layoffs, but I'm definitely feeling the pinch. I took a job transfer just as the housing market cratered and was unable to sell my house. I'm now a reluctant absentee landlord. A few months ago I decided to implement a new policy for my collection that I call the Perpetual Robot Fund. Basically, I've decided that money for collecting can't come out of pocket, so if I want to get a new toy I have to sell something to fund it. It's working out really well. It encourages me to clean out the closet and put some of my old stuff in the hands of somebody else who wants it more, and it keeps the funds flowing so I can pick up the new items I really care about. I also don't have to feel bad about buying a big ticket item, since that money comes right out of the collection anyway. I've been surprised at how much stuff I had sitting around that I didn't care about. Toys, games, books, CDs, all can be converted into cash for new stuff.

I got the VF-0 arms I requested today. The whole process took me... oh, maybe a month and a half from my initial request.

I work with somebody who was a designer on Battlecry and Invasion and asked him what the final fate of Jack Archer was supposed to be. Evidently Invasion was originally intended to be a "Saving Private Ryan" sort of story, where your goal was to locate and rescue Jack from the clutches of the Invid. Hence the grafitti in the game. In production the game script was changed to remove the Jack component, but the artwork stayed in. I asked how it was Jack ended up back on Earth after the end of Battlecry, and he shrugged and said "Zentraedi sympathizers". This isn't Harmony Gold canon, mind you. Just what the game developers were thinking as they were making it.

I had every MPC veritech at some point, and I'll say that the YF-1R was the best of the bunch. I acutally thought the colors worked for the toy, and the head sculpt seemed the best and most solid of the set. Of course, there's no line art to compare the head sculpt to, like there is on the others, but the lasers are thicker and it just seems sturdier. I personally don't really like non-canon valks, but if you do, then there you go. But "best of the Toynami MPCs" isn't necessarily very good. I've sold all of mine off for a reason. They're real hard to love. For the same price as the YF-1R, you can probably pick up a 1/48 Yamato these days.

I think the GBP-1S on a VF-1J is just one of those iconic toys that everybody should have. And the bigger the better, so I think the 1/48 scale won't be beat by any future releases. It's crazy how much the prices on the GBP sets have come down now.

Yeah, I can't see that I'm finding anything to be hating on Toynami for here. Even after reading the certificate, they're just talking up the toy. Who knows what the deal was with Beagle? There's a lot involved in these business deals that the consumers don't get told about. I think it's likely that Toynami bankrolled a fair bit of the operation; there's a lot of cases like this in other industries where the product wouldn't have come out without a distributor jumping on board. It happens with independent movies all the time, some big distributor will buy a film and stick their name all over it and the small studio will be thrilled about it because their film couldn't have been made otherwise. Videogames: both Rock Band and Guitar Hero were created by Harmonix, but Activision and EA, the publishers, sure contributed a lot by providing funding and getting the product out on store shelves. Activision and EA are within reason to talk about "their" games being big successes. Just because a Toynami employee didn't come up with the CAD designs doesn't necessarily mean Toynami wasn't a big contributor to getting the Beagle product acutally produced.

So who wants to bet that five years from now somebody will be paying $500 for a SUPER RARE RECALLED MAIA SHADOW FIGHTER on ebay?

I haven't yet gotten any 1/60s, so I would get a TV version Roy if it came out. If I already had the DYRL version, I'm not sure...

Wowow, I'm just seeing this thread. TV Max 1A, right on! Those photos look really good. Is there any release date, other than "2009"?

I think the first was Starblazers when I was 5 or 6, but I know I watched a lot of Battle of the Planets around the same time. (Does BoTP really count?) I also liked to watch Macron 1, which I didn't learn until many, many years later was GoShogun.