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mickyg

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About mickyg

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    Alaska Base Survivor

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    Victoria, Australia

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  1. As much as I love the Google translate's real time camera tool, snapping a photo of the above and using the finger highlight option, made way more sense! The real-time one said this: "be the size of the actual Kore. on the miniature I." And when I snapped the photo and highlighted it: "Well, the actual size is this. The top is miniature." And now we know.
  2. mickyg

    BANDAI DX YF-19!!

    That may have been me. Here's a better illustration of why that would be the case: The quickly drawn shapes, along with red circled areas around where the damage/deformation would likely happen: VF-1 Pylon face-on: A side, section type view: And the pylon shape for the YF-19/VF-19/VF-31 (and probably the SV-262 as well): Because of the angle of that round surface's edges, it deforms very easily when you push the pylons against it to fit/remove it. There are slight "nubs" on the posts of the pylon that are responsible for this. It definitely works, you just have to be really careful with the amount of pressure you apply when inserting or removing them. I'd love to see a close-up of the new VF-1 specific missile parts for comparison. My guess is that they put the main connection focus on the middle post, instead of the side ones for the existing DX mounts. On these existing ones, the attaching mechanism seems to be more about the outer posts.
  3. Jealous of all of you who bought the DX Missile set. My work continues on modifying the Hasegawa model kit missiles and although they will look nice when finished, the amount of effort I've put in to get them to work just doesn't seem worthwhile.
  4. Looking amazing MT! If you hadn't mentioned the scale of the clothespins, I'd have thought this thing grew!
  5. Agreed. I mainly used it because it's less effort for where I had it. I literally used a dab from a toothpick on the magnets, since the void inside the missile bodies is plenty to hold the expanding glue. For the printed part, it was perfect to let it expand and fill the step between it and the pylon. That's why I used the plastic "form" clipped over it, while it expanded and set. The expansion was forced into the gap and excess went out the top of the pylon, where I just trimmed it off after.
  6. Thanks for the ray of hope arbit! Yeah, I think the key is to drill a bit oversize and then glue the connection method (wire, rod, magnets, etc) into each side while fitting it "perfectly." I didn't have that extra measure because of course I drilled the holes almost exactly the right size for the magnets. I managed to glue the missile halves together last night and take some new photos. So there's some small progress happening. I'm using Gorilla Glue for holding the magnets in and also for the 3D printed part to the PS plastic on the model parts. Super glue would work too, I'm sure but I am fresh out. Plus, glue that activates in the presence of moisture and bubbles up like that polyfoam insulation in a can, is cool! I used it to create a level surface on the 3D printed part by applying some to the part that I'd previously glued, sprayed water on two pieces of thick plastic sheet, then using a bulldog clip to hold the plastic level with the pylon. After removing the plastic sheet, the result is a smooth surface that is slightly transparent. It looks porous but isn't. Under primer and paint, it should look like the rest of the plastic when I'm done. The yet to be primed and painted, finished assembly: And fitted. As you can see, the flaps still work and don't foul on the pylon or the missiles. I don't know how the Reaction Missiles or the Micro Missile boxes would look but don't plan to fit these anyway.
  7. Lots of great things being built here! I've managed to make some progress on my little DX VF-1J Missile project with whatever "workbench" space I can find. Lately that's been the kitchen table or the small space in front of my keyboard on my desk at home. At any rate, I've gone from this: To this: And in hindsight, that pic shows almost nothing of my progress! So until I take some more well thought out ones, the written word will have to serve as a substitute. I'm experimenting with 1mm x 1.5mm neodymium magnets. They didn't seem appropriate for holding the pylons to the wing. I think I might've been able to make it work but the 3D printed adapters seemed to be a stronger option and so I went with them instead. The magnets seemed more appropriate for holding the missiles onto the pylons. Of course that meant drilling tiny holes into the missile bodies and attempting to use the missiles as guides for the holes in the pylons. That worked, but only just. You people who drill perfect holes in plastic have a gift. In the end, the guides that Hasegawa built into the parts seem to work OK for locating the ordnance and the magnets seem to hold everything in place as planned. I still may just glue at least one batch, given how much effort was required to do one pylon. That's 12 holes required for each pylon. And why do they need to be removable again?
  8. mickyg

    Bandai DX VF-31

    I'm working on a DIY set of missiles for the DX VF-1 and can reaffirm that the other DX release missiles do fit. But there's a caveat - they seem to do very minor damage to the hardpoint on the bigger VF-1. I have no idea if the upcoming missile set is going to incompatible with the VF-31 toys as a result. I expect there will be a slight change in the design for these new missiles that might render them incompatible with all the rest of Bandai's stuff. We've just not seen enough of the set to know for sure. The Shapeways stuff is likely to be the safest bet. I'm totally with you on the 31F though - I'm in exactly the same boat as I have the toy and the super parts, but no missiles because they were never available. Well, not separately at least. I have the super parts for Mirage's ride but that's just the one set to go between two Valks.
  9. mickyg

    DX Chogokin Super VF-27

    That is unfortunate. I'll have to check both my Brera and Grace versions soon to see if this an issue on either. As I recall, the plastic is exactly the same between whether it's green or magenta.
  10. I just realised the 3d printed part is sitting too high for the pylon to but up against the underside of the wing. Bummer... Looks like I'll need to move it down a bit more - maybe to the tops of the side rails instead.
  11. Yeah, I hate those "you can only choose good fit on one side or the other" dilemmas in a lot of kits. Still, you're progressing well with it. Keep those pictures coming. I've been working on a modification to allow the Hasegawa 1/48 VF-1 Missiles to work on the Bandai DX toy. I didn't want to shell out the big bucks for the Missile set from Bandai so went this route of modifying the model kit parts. It'll have a bit better "realism" and give me complete control on the finish of the parts but that's about it. The effort so far on my first pylon alone is sitting at about an hour. To do the 4 required, that's 4 hours. And that's just to make the cuts to fit everything together. If you can put money against your time, the Missile set from Bandai is an absolute steal! Here's where I'm at: The pylon has been glued together and the yellow 3d printed piece just wedged in there for testing the fit. I'll glue it in properly and add some detail over the cutout so it looks a little more interesting when finished. I experimented with holes to help attach the missiles and actually purchased some 1mm x 1.5mm neodymium magnets for this specific purpose. Unfortunately the method for attaching the missiles is so tricky, the magnets just aren't going to work. Here's how I'd planned to mount them: The sad thing is that the holes were nearly perfectly aligned and straight - something I almost never get right. Oh well... The bit I've cut out is shown here: Just a simple rectangle, marked out and then cut with some very thin photo etch saws.
  12. mickyg

    Hi-Metal R

    Looks beautiful Lolicon! I like the extra touches like that light on the tail stinger too. Which semi-gloss clear did you end up using?
  13. All I know is, I keep coming back here to see what you all come up with. I mean the comic is one thing, but the commentary is just the best thing ever!
  14. Ah, that helps a LOT. Not to disparage Pulltoeject's great advice but I notice a couple of things right off the bat that could use some further comment. Firstly, those aren't scratches, but Shizuka, you probably already knew that. That's Yamato's rainbow tint, disintegrating away on the inside of the canopy the way only their tinting can. It's common. And I'm fairly certain it's something you can fully strip off with alcohol. Second, it looks like the panel lining on the kite along the fuselage was done with something that reacted with the red paint. I'm also tipping it was an alcohol based product. In short, the Tamiya thinner might work, but I'd still start with good old Isopropyl first. Pulltoeject's advice about using it basically dampened is definitely recommended. I'd start on the side of that nosecone where it's just a white plastic background. If the black starts to come off, you're in good shape to tackle the rest. That kite though... That's almost assuredly going to require something special not to make it look worse. Probably best to try and avoid it altogether.
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