That is the 1st time I ever sucessfully made a transparent canopy. I have tried many time on other models and failed miserably.
On this I made the paper canopy (tabs outside) and filled it with epoxy. When the epoxy cured I soaked tha paper off in a glass of water. I then sanded the ridges out and smoothed the curve of the canopy (the biggest problem with pape ris compound curves). I then sanded it down with finer and finer grit paper and polished it off with newspaper.
Oh forgot to mention before filling the paper canopy I extended the mold with masking tape all round. That left a small step ridge when the paper was removed making it easy when trimming the clear one.
Now I've gotten molds made before and all but here's where I figured out I was messing up. I would always use clear acetate sheet from Evergreen. I would heat it up over candels or a stove eye and just as it began to sag I tried to pull it over the mold. It would always cool too quickly and not give me a full stretch over the mold
Ok I guess I didn't heat it up enough
I would wait a tad longer and boom! It melted in the center. I burned up (litteraly) a whole pak of acetate and I tossed the paper Grippen and the mold in disgust
What I discovered in this one is I was using the wrong plastic. The acetate was too thin. A buddy of mine suggest plastic from a blister pak like a pak of batteries. That's what I did and what do you know, it heated up well and pulled right over the mold
I had ran a pen over that step ridge I mentioned before so I had a visible line that I traced with a pen on the clear part and cut with scissors along the oultine and walla my 1st clear canopy
Paper craft can be a challenge. It took me a long time to get to the level I'm at and there are guys that make me look a rank amatur
The trick is choosing the right paper for the parts. The majority of paper I use is 65lbs. cardstock. For bigger heavier structures I use 110lbs. stock. For small delicate parts I use regular printer paper. I also use white construction paper at time for my 1/72 WW1 planes it is perfect.
I use dowels of varrying sizes to make my curves in parts with. In fact I put up a tool list and their uses in that VF-1 Thread on Zealot. It's on page 18 I think.
Here's some pics of a couple WW1 biplanes I did. The 1 plane is a 1/72 Roland C.II I designed (it's avaliable for download at Zealot). This is the final prototype build with a full edtailed engine, cockpit and the guns look better than most plastic kit's of the same scale. The 2nd is a simple kit I purchased that I re-size to 1/144. I added rigging wires to it also.
When I 1st got into papercraft I had no idea how vast it really was. There was a huge lack of Macross kits so I did this project to help bridge the gap. I didn't expect to go as far on the VF-1 project as I did but when I got started I just couldn't stop
Hope you give some of the new Valks a try. Print em on 65lbs. cardstock and get a stylis for scoring along with a metal ruller. If you need any hlep figuring the model or techniques out give me a shout and I'll do what I can to help