Jump to content

3D printed GU-11 pod


Bushwood3006

Recommended Posts

That's looking great! It's big enough to put a small fire extinguisher in and hang it up on the wall in your kitchen like Max had on hand when Millia started a fire in the kitchen B)) - MT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some updates. got most of the Rotor assembly printed out. and started a little more assembly of the body.

Six separate prints to make this part, post-29419-0-69010100-1448141898_thumb.jpg.

All 3 ofthese sections were filled with urethane resin before I assembled itpost-29419-0-81032600-1448142350_thumb.jpg post-29419-0-71843000-1448142361_thumb.jpg

And since I don't have clamps big enough to handle this thing. Improvise. post-29419-0-68633500-1448142063_thumb.jpg

.

Edited by Bushwood3006
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok sorry been a while since I did an update, but someone had to go and release Fallout 4. So I blame Bethesda. lol. Have the entire pod body finished more or less. had to do some prints multiple time for tweaking purposes. But her she is as of now. With one of my AR's for scale.

post-29419-0-94613900-1449967245_thumb.jpg

I'm pretty happy with fit , but i need to resize some of the buttstock prints. The rear end is way to long to even hipfire, let alone shoulder. Plus as I was taking the picture I realized i forgot to at the rear sling mount, so I need to mod the bottom fin for the 4th time. Oh well. Once that's fixed, on to printing out the rail sections that hold the guts together..... Thats gonna suck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow, that AR really puts things into perspective... Why not scale it down a bit to be more wieldy? Or is that sort of the point?

I wanted the barrels to look imposing so decided to use 1/2" PVC pipe. Tried to make it smaller but with 3 barrels and the bearing for it i had to make it bigger. My first post was the original design. Looked way to small. I like the bigger look, now it just how can I keep it big and still handle-able.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Little update. Been a little lazy over the holidays. but got some more stuff done. I have been printing out some of the internals. There is going to be a set of parallel rails running the length of the forward body. they are going to be both to add some strength and to provide something to find all the layers together. There will be a 3rd running at the top but thats just going to be a strip of extruded aluminum. The turquoise rings are going to be the chassis the barrels and guts will mount in. And then hopefully slide inside the body along the rails as a self contained unit. The rails took forever to build up. 24 segments that i printed out on at a time so i could use up all my partial rolls of filament. Then another couple weeks to glue it all up and trim it.

post-29419-0-76578900-1452419946_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-89028900-1452419954_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-12723700-1452419963_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bushwood3006
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

More glue ups. Body and Muzzle cap assemblies.

post-29419-0-81342100-1453162204_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-94445300-1453162216_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-96157300-1453162227_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-46392300-1453162241_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-10046200-1453162253_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-44617700-1453162266_thumb.jpg

I love the smell of Bondo in the morning...... Smells like.... Prop making.

Bondo'd up the sensor/ fwd light thing. Needs a lot of priming and sanding to get it ready for molding. I'm gonna cast it in a transparent red resin.

post-29419-0-36072400-1453162287_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-39730800-1453162298_thumb.jpg

Started to bondo up the pistol grip.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So i think i came up with a way to mount the sling and not have it look like complete crap.

Key-mod QD sling swivels....

Front fling mount. Made an aluminum plate that fit in the recess for my original idea. Drilled and tapped it to fit the sling mount.

post-29419-0-86087600-1454364404_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-80074600-1454364393_thumb.jpg

post-29419-0-32458800-1454364417_thumb.jpg

And then embedded it into the recess with JB-weld

post-29419-0-56157900-1454364427_thumb.jpg

The lower fin got the same thing.. glued up a block of aluminum out of strips, drilled it up, and JB-welded it into a pocket I hollowed out in the leading edge of the fin.

post-29419-0-15675600-1454364648_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-37321100-1454364658_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-03760200-1454364671_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-34180800-1454364682_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-22157700-1454364693_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-60072300-1454364705_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-71929300-1454364716_thumb.jpg. the fin got back filled partially with resin for more strength.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More glue ups. Body and Muzzle cap assemblies.

attachicon.gifP1010042a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010043a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010044a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010046a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010045a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010049a.JPG

I love the smell of Bondo in the morning...... Smells like.... Prop making.

Bondo'd up the sensor/ fwd light thing. Needs a lot of priming and sanding to get it ready for molding. I'm gonna cast it in a transparent red resin.

attachicon.gifP1010047a.JPGattachicon.gifP1010048a.JPG

Started to bondo up the pistol grip.

The blister will be the targetter. In other words the "where is my gun pointing" device given the weapon will be in a manipulator off bore axis. You could cast in a mini flashlight reflector to look like a camera lens assembly behind the resin. If you wanted to get techo with it you could add a laser pointer as a laser designator/rangefinder.

Edited by NZEOD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The blister will be the targetter. In other words the "where is my gun pointing" device given the weapon will be in a manipulator off bore axis. You could cast in a mini flashlight reflector to look like a camera lens assembly behind the resin. If you wanted to get techo with it you could add a laser pointer as a laser designator/rangefinder.

I have a cavity in the rear half. Just going to wire up 2 or 3 red LEDs and mount them inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This post brought to you by Smooth-On XTC-3D....LOL. After 3 coats of epoxy and a lot of sanding

post-29419-0-50095800-1455655760_thumb.jpg

The fins got a layer of sheet styrene and bondo.

post-29419-0-57334500-1455655845_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-72092300-1455655858_thumb.jpg

the bottom fin got mod'ed with all-thread rod, cut to length and JB-weld in. Along with a small filler for the rear cone so i can bolt and epoxy the fin on. The mating surfaces between the pieces were not as large as I was hoping for. And I didn't want to rely on just the shear strength of epoxy.

post-29419-0-20438600-1455656125_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-00134400-1455656137_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-21160800-1455656410_thumb.jpg

Edited by Bushwood3006
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Been a while since last update. Sorry, fell in to a bit of an uber-lazy kick.

Did a lot of filling and priming. A lot of parts were not at strait as I had hoped. But I think that was because a software/setting thing on my part

post-29419-0-95605300-1457906787_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-27734300-1457906798_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-32010800-1457906809_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-31592200-1457906818_thumb.jpg

Finished gluing up the main body. When I cleaned up all the excess on the seams I notices the segments were slightly staggered. Not by much but i would be noticeable. So my solution is a layer of JB-Weld over the whole thing and that will get sanded smooth. I'm not to worried it its not perfectly circular, just need to level all the high and low spots

post-29419-0-54457800-1457907172_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-76305800-1457907184_thumb.jpg

Also got the flutes and sensor lenses molded and cast.

post-29419-0-81176900-1457907255_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-19507100-1457907267_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-46787800-1457907277_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Ok soooo. After many, many, many hours of sanding( I put that JB-weld on way to thick). Finally got the point were I was ready to start skinning the main tube. I did a couple test with failed prints, and superglue worked awesome on the test pieces. Tried it in the main tube for real and not so much. Big Time Fail. Pieces are just too Big to do with super glue. Leaves too many air pockets and no bond areas. Peeled all that off, re-sanded and went with Plan B, Lock-tite brand spray Contact Cement. Sooo. fail number 2, (that crap doesn't bond to anything and it just makes a gummy mess like that crap they use to glue on address labels to magazines.) So I'm on plan C, Dap Weldwood. So far so good. i doesnt just peel off PLA or styrene when its dry. So got some test pieces glued up and gonna let them cure a while.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Success!!

post-29419-0-91272600-1461011717_thumb.jpgpost-29419-0-50879300-1461011730_thumb.jpg

It would appear that contact cement loves to bind to PLA. Not quite so much to styrene. But more than strong enough for my needs. I need to make a run to Walmart and pick up more. The small craft bottle did not go quite as far as I thought it would. Ignore the fact it's covered in "For Sale" signs...... Just a cheap source for large styrene sheets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...