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armentage

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Skull Leader's Lackey

Skull Leader's Lackey (5/15)

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  1. Are there any 3rd party company (e.g. Toyhax, but not Toyhax, they don't) that offers labels for the Sentinel Mospeada and Legioss? It's a huge bummer that the instrument cluster is blank. Any these could use a little bit more surface detail and artwork.
  2. And soon enough, I'm sure we'll see 300^3 printers that run at these speeds! It IS very nice to print out giant starships...
  3. Ankermate M5. Prints 10x faster than all previous printers. There are a few more like it coming out on to the market. https://www.ankermake.com/m5 I bought a 300mm ^3 printer. I thought it would come in handy for large modeling related prints. However, the more standard 200cm ^ 3 printer would be sufficient for 98% of my prints. (The M5 is a 200cm ^3 printer!)
  4. So I have a question - what happens if you get the peroxide mix over the painted parts of the figure? Will it eat away or damage the paint? How carefully must you be while applying it?
  5. Interesting how the face-on sketch in the first photo looks A LOT like some of the Invid illustrations we saw in Kevin Siembieda's original Robotech RPG books. It's something about the way the arms look so big and heavy (or are those weapon stores hanging under the wings?) and the legs are spread apart at the same angles you saw frequently in Genesis Climber.
  6. So... I guess those of us who ordered on BBTS continue to wait? Should I be worried? It's been months and the pre-order release date seems to keep slipping. I'm kind of sad I cancelled my Nippon Yasan order
  7. Ooh! I was thinking the hole looked like a "Reflex Blast" (excuse my Robotech, but I read those damn novels as a kid and the word is stuck in my head) I shall sell this on Ebay at a giant premium!
  8. So, I setup my 1/48 VF-1J box up on my dining room table to swap out some hands. I began to smell something funny, and then noticed something horrible had happened... I HAD PUT THE BOX OVER A CANDLE. IT DID NOT END WELL FOR THE BOX. The Valk is fine though. Notice how the hole is almost perfectly round!
  9. armentage

    Hi-Metal R

    Can someone give me a link to the right display stands for the HiMetal R VF2SS? I want something that will connect to the mounting pieces that came with the toy.
  10. armentage

    Hi-Metal R

    TL;DR Disappointing attempt, 4/10. A floppy mess. I got my VF2SS last night from Image Anime in NYC. I'm sad to say that, overall, I'm not very impressed. This is my first HiMetal anything, and I guess I wasn't prepared for the vastly inferior product it is compared to the DX Chokogin Valks. The transformation is quite simple and very straight forward, once you figure out how to tuck away the head and backpack properly. The joints are stiff... TOO STIFF! Rather than quality ratchet joints, they are using insanely thight rivets that barely turn, putting a TON of stress on the toys structure as you try to position the arms. Worse, they will obviously loosen over time and the toy will become crap. In Battroid mode, the heat shield doesn't cleanly meet the canopy, leaving a lot of glass visible. In fighter mode, the legs and arms lock together for SOME structure, but the combined arm/leg structure has nothing to lock in to, and thus is constantly flexing around. Nothing ever lines up! The hands tuck away so badly it is better to just leave them visible in fighter mode. They include a pair of ridiculous, tiny hands, that just BARELY fit inside the arms when tucked away. They don't really look like hands at all, but little grey bits of crap that just fall off when you touch them. Better to just remove them in fighter mode and store them. The SAP is also quite floppy. The joints are tight, but there's just too much toy for a PVC joint to work. I just can't get the wings to stay parallel with each other, the gun to point straight, etc. Paint apps are almost non-existant; there is just the red stripes on the chest, and a few little ports/plugs on the limbs. I dare say the 1/100th Bandai kit from 1992 had more stickers. I don't think any of these problems are QC issues; rather it's just an overly complex design that was executed quite poorly.
  11. So I recently came across this post and I'm really interested in trying it out.... http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?t=899984 Basically, this guy is using hydrogen peroxide hair developer creme instead of the usual home brew hydrogen peroxide & oxy clean solution. The creme is nice and thick, sticking to the plastic instead of running off of it. Doesn't seem to damage color either! I'm going to try some of this on the awful VF-25, and perhaps a little patch on my Gakken Mospeada.
  12. What kills me is all of the modern pieces that are covered in tampo art. I could totally see myself (gently) bleaching the white back into the yellowed parts on most of the holder Yamato or early Bandai toys. The modern toys from Bandai in particular are a different story! I'm sure the hydrogen peroxide mixtures people use would completely remove the tampo artwork along with the yellow. Perhaps there will be a nice secondary market in replacement decals to restore the detail lost during a deyellowing session.
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