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  1. 6 points
    If you want a CF VF-171EX, you have two options. 1.) Get a Maruyama Custom and remove the itasha-print using a solvent 2.) Get an Alto Custom and convert the red stripes to Grey. I'm a cheap bastard so I picked up a VF-171EX Alto used for about 12000 yen and an armored pack for 3500 yen off Mandarake. Figure that 15500 yen + shipping is way better than paying the 20000 yen that the Maruyama custom commands....right? Let's just say the next time around I will just get the maruyama and remove the itasha print lol. Masking some of the lines on the VF-171EX are an absolute pain because it's really hard to line up light masking tape with the off-white color of the VF-171EX in order to go up right against the red. You gotta get REALLY creative with the ankle guards in the front since there's only like .5 mm of white plastic for the masking tape to hold onto, and at an angle in the middle to boot :0 Painting commenced using Tamiya acrylic dark grey mixed with 50% acryl thinner. Used Iwata Eclipse airbrush @ 20 PSI. After everything dried I brush-painted on some future floor polish mixed with Tamiya flat-base to give the paint a little extra resistance. After all painting was done, Just had to add a CF Pilot, of which I have many due to my CF-VF-171 collection. And Voila, CF 171EX without the Itasha print. This is how it stacks up vs the Maruyama Custom
  2. 5 points
    Thanks spanner! Made it just for you Thewait is over. Nice glad you like it spanner! I was trying to go for the Aerial Knights Salute, but no salute hand was included. Here you go.
  3. 4 points
    Finally finished! What I was looking to do was this: Did I succeed? Couple of firsts for me on this kit. All of the red and black were painted, not decals. Never done that much of an extensive masking/painting before. Used the Jasmine Models PE set for the first time. And, used Wave sculpting putty to modify a Studio Starforge pilot figure to get a the First figure.
  4. 4 points
    Beginner's Model Building Construction BASICS An old question a lot of entry level modelers ask here is, “what should I get if I want to get into model building?” Here is a listing and breakout for the very BASICS ONLY needed for construction and how to use them. This thread is open to EVERYONE’S input and I’m only starting it. Please include your suggestions and ideas, but keep it simple and not confusing. Remember, there will be “newbies” reading this. This thread is not meant to cover painting or finishing which is another story and can vary with the type of model, to what a person favors for paint (oils, acrylics, enamels, airbrush, brushes etc…) Somebody who REALLY knows what they’re doing with paint please start that one SAFETY FIRST You are about to use some chemicals that can cause serious health conditions if used incorrectly. ALWAYS use a well ventilated room with fresh air. Organic cements (such as pictured) are safer, but still give the same bond strength. Other chemicals like super glues or putties can cause cancer or long term mental/neural damage. A respirator mask that handles organic solvents will help when you can’t get another form of ventilation or air evacuation. A simple fan in front of you blowing out the window will help some – just make sure it’s not flowing back into the house. Do I even have to mention safety with sharp objects ***WARNINGS ABOUT RESIN COMPOUNDS***. Resin model dust from sanding can cause alergic reactions in some people and is toxic, more so to some people. It is advisable to wet sand resin kits (see below) and wear some sort of respirator or mask to filter out the particulates. Those who use resin the most are more susceptible than others since the sensitivity actually builds up, versus getting better like normal alergies. Raw resins that are uncured can cause skin and respitory issues as well. Read all warnings that come with your resin. Like expoxies, resins can make the skin and the respitory tract sensistive. Be sure to wear gloves and respitory protection when using raw resin compounds. Parts Preparation on the Sprues (Parts Trees) The very first thing you should do is take a pan/large container with warm soap and water and wash the mold release compound from the parts trees (sprues). Both resin and styrene parts will have mold release on them. Feel the parts before and after and you’ll feel the difference. These waxy or oily substances keep glue and paint from sticking to the parts. Use a SOFT brush to CAREFULLY remove the compounds off the front AND back of parts. Now rinse the parts off in another container of warm water then thoroughly but gently pat dry with a towel. A hairdryer could warp the parts – so fogettabout it! Why a container and not the sink? If a part falls off in the container, you can easily retrieve it. If it goes down the sink, hold a funeral for it because it’s probably gone! Don’t let parts dry in direct sunlight. It will warp them too and cause whites to yellow faster and clear parts to yellow as well. The BASIC Shopping List This is the “budget” version of the list and should cost around $25 (USD) on average. 1)Flush Cutters – These are not diagonal wire cutters, but have a completely flat side on one end of the blades to cut the sprue flat - “flush” with the side of the part. You can get these at hobby shops or electronics suppliers. Don’t cut metal with them after purchase. It will put a gap in the blades affecting your clean cut. 2)Hobby Knife – This has a ton of uses, but for now, will be used to clean spare sprue off of the part you just cut off or remove molding flash. Don’t cut too close, use the sanding stick to go to the face of the part. 3)Multi-grit Sanding Stick – This will clean up and smooth over whatever is left on the part. It will also be used to clean up the seam of your assemblies. NOTE: small “Swiss” files can be used too, but will leave undesired gouges if you’re not used to using them on styrene. 4)Thin “Welding” Cement – This cement literally melts or welds the soft styrene together! Some have filler agents, but generally, the melting action is what makes the parts stick. This is the strongest bond for styrene next to molding a whole piece - when done right. This can be used two ways. The first is to clamp, tape or rubber band your parts together. Then use a brush/applicator to flow the cement into the seams. Capillary action draws the cement in. The second way is to wet both halves of the parts in coats, let it set a few seconds and repeat as needed to cement together. Use this for rough seams. The excess glue will mix with the styrene and form a putty of sorts and fill the seam – allow a couple of days for this to dry. Bad seams will need putty or super glue and baking soda. When taping or using rubber bands remember the cement will get in under these and mar the plastic finish. Use cardboard or other materials to space these clamping devices away from the styrene and watch where the glue flows – it’s thinner than water! Your fingers can become applicators too and get glue where you don’t want it – watch where you put those fingers! 5)Super Glue – Super glue sets faster, can fill seams when cured and is also the main glue of choice for gluing resin kits together. Cured super glue is stronger and tougher than the styrene, remember this when sanding or filling gaps as listed below. Think how you will attack your problem before making it worse. 6)Baking Soda – Not mandatory, but will accelerate super glue’s curing time and can be “piled on” to fill-in nasty seams or bad goof ups in assembly with super glue coats in between layers. 7)Filler Putty – This is the other way to fill bad seams in or cover up goofs you gouged into your kit. Let it dry thoroughly and ensure the area is clean of oils that will inhibit adhesion. 8)Sanding Block – When your parts are together, the sanding stick has sanded the seam over, use this to bring a near glossy finish back to the plastic. Rubbing an old clean and SOFT rag can buff it to gloss. Making It “Seam Easy” The most frustrating part of model assembly is when you glue two pieces together and you can see the seam. The seam of the parts can simply need mild sanding and it’s gone. In other cases though, the parts will have a bad gap. Here’s some pointers to help out. 1)Test fit the parts together; yeah, the instructions say it for a reason. Parts that don’t fit right may only need a little rough sanding and they’re good to go. A lot of earlier models have machine marks in the mold making the seam potted and not smooth. Sometime the fit pins don’t line up and have to be removed. A sanded seam also has better adhesion. 2)If there’s a small gap, the method above under “Welding Cement” will help. A few applied/semi-dried layers of weld cement will fill it in as the cement becomes like putty. Allow at least two days for seams like this to dry though. Maybe more if there’s a lot of it on the kit. 3)If your scale model has a mini Grand Canyon in it, super glue, super glue and filler (like baking soda) or filler putty can fill it in. If strength is an issue, super glue on its own is the way to go and will give the best strength. It also dries clear after sanding. Smooth Moves “Are there marks on my model that will only show up after painting?” Heck yeah! That’s the part that sucks worse than sanding seams! A magnifying glass with a bright light or sunlight will show shadows as you move parts around. If you’re going to paint, a coat of primer will show the “error of your ways” and even fill in minor scratches from sanding. Pull out your sanding block and clean them up as needed. Getting It Wet You can always dry sand your parts, but the paper/blocks/stick clogs up quickly and the effect can be uneven across your work area. Make sure your sander is certified "wet or dry" ti use with water. Most blocks are. Experiment if you're not sure. If the sanding substrate comes off the block easily when wet, then your sander is best suited for dry use. Try getting a small dish of water and dipping the sander into it. Sand as normal, but occasionally dampen and clear out the sander "pores." The water also cools if you're aggressive and can even help smooth off the finish better with fine grits. Putty is more notorious than styrene for clogging up the sanding substrate. It can also absorb the water becoming like mud on the model (once again, brands and types vary). Try some experiments first before destroying your rare or expensive kits. A damp cloth is great for wiping up sanding "goop" leftovers. Where Can I Get This Stuff? Many of us (like me) don’t have a hobby shop around us. In the U.S., Radio Shack carries many of the same tools or craft stores such as Hobby Lobby, Michaels or Joann Fabrics for the majority of it. Beauty supply stores are good for sponge blocks, sanding sticks, and even super glue. They also have filler for the super glues if you don’t like baking soda. The putty is best gotten online if you can’t find it locally. There are many brands on the market. Depending on who you ask, Tamiya and Squadron (pictured) sell well. There are also various grades of putties too such as fine or medium. Check out your local hardware stores too. They will have many of these items too, only maybe larger for DIY projects. If you have other information, ideas or techniques, PLEASE contribute and share it with the community! - MT
  5. 4 points
    Make up for the sh*t-show that was Delta? As long as it's not the same director and writers as Delta, I may give it a shot.
  6. 3 points
    Mod note: Drop the whitewashing discussion of this movie. That issue has played out in this topic.
  7. 3 points
    I'm definitely not in it for the paycheck! Doing the reviews helps me justify owning the toys and also makes it easier for me to sell them because I have a ton of pictures and descriptions of the toys so it's easy for me to revisit them when they're gone. I eventually thin the herd out to one of each mold and I keep that one for comparison purposes later. When I first started buying toys, I bought a bunch of toys I regretted so there's also the good feeling that I'm helping people avoid that.
  8. 3 points
    Well, that was easily the most time consuming review I've ever done of a single toy... what a bear. The transformation guide is up but it's too late for me to get the video review put together... might take a day or two. The article is up and that hits the important stuff. I might add a couple more pics as I go through the video review and check what I comment on there that I missed in the write-up. Phew... I had such plans for this weekend.. oh well.
  9. 3 points
    ...I've made a lot of special modifications myself... Woohoo!!! I finally managed to get the two halves together. Spent a lot of time routing the various wires and fibre optics around to they do get caught in the big attachment pegs and then covered a tin foil dome on the inside of the saucer to keep the light reflecting around and minimize light leaks out (even though I did spray the interior black). Amazing set of PE parts - these landing gear baffles are a must even at this scale! I tried to drill some holes to allow some light to spill out of the landing gear wells to dimly light the gears from all the bounce form the tin foil dome. Just gotta add some of the landing gear hoses still... It's too bad that the photo doesn't show off all the little lights and controls through the gun port walls because the rear tunnel is so bright. You can hardly see all the work I did into that cockpit now I embedded a magnet to to activate a "reed" switch inside to turn on the red landing markers and ramp entry light when I put in the open landing ramp, when I take it out and replace it with the closed ramp, the red marker lights and entry ramp light goes out. That extra curved door at the end of the entrance tunnel really adds to it! Gotta work on that radar dish and a last pass at the weathering with some scraps and I can almost call it done! Not sure if I'll ever need to do my 1/72 Fine Molds kit...
  10. 3 points
    Hello. I always wanted both a VF-0B and a VF-0C but I doubt Arcadia will do them (though one can hope!). I bought extra D's and A's in the hopes that the canopies could be swapped so I could make both a B and C. Thankfully they could and posted a couple of pics in the toys section. Although they looked okay I thought "both of them need a paintjob" so here I am. Bear with me as I'm a noob at these things so some of the ways I do things might not be the best way but it worked for me. Some helpful tools to have are: Spudger/Pry tool kit for the tiny screw hole covers and areas that need a little gentle help. Roll pin set and a small hammer to access the pins in the swing bar and to separate the chest piece. Extra plastic containers with lids labeled to keep all the small parts together. Don't do what I did and leave them in ziplocs as I found out the hard way as my darling wife threw a bag of small parts out into the rubbish and I spent half a day sorting through bags looking for it First thing I did was to take apart as much of the valks as I could so that I could mask and paint. Here is a pic of it apart, primed with Tamiya fine grey, and sprayed in AS-16 light grey. The legs are together and hanging. The rest of the time was masking and painting the various colors. I decided not to do the SPW scheme and instead do the VF-8 theme in the Master File. I sprayed the nose and lighter colored parts AS-20 insignia white, TS-16 yellow, and TS-29 semi gloss. After I let everything dry I put it all back together. Here's some pics of it in gerwalk and fighter modes. There's still a lot of stuff I need to touch up and put on some decals but that's where I'm at now. Thanks for stopping by! Here is the scheme for the VF-0B: This is the VF-0C scheme: 3/13/17: I added on the VF-0C to this thread so that I don't need to do another one. Edit 3/22/17 VF-0B Colors: Tamiya fine grey primer, AS-16 light grey for the main color, AS-20 Insignia white for the lighter parts, TS-18 yellow and TS-29 Semi gloss black. TS-80 flat clear. VF-0C Colors: Tamiya fine grey primer, TS-81 Royal light grey for the main, AS-7 Neutral grey, TS-15 Blue, TS-16 Yellow, and TS-29 Semi gloss black. TS-80 flat clear.
  11. 3 points
    Terrible. These KOs are severely unethical. I have no problem when a garage group designs its own figure and sells a few unique pieces to fans, even if it is unlicensed. But there is no justification for these at all.
  12. 3 points
    Will see how it goes. MP Transformer KOs have often been better quality than the originals and if that's the case here and Arcadia does not reissue M&M, the KOs will be very tempting.
  13. 3 points
  14. 3 points
    Guys please stop before spanner starts to collect KOs too.
  15. 3 points
    Ethical considerations aside, I'm highly skeptical of these v2 1/60 VF-1 KO's. If you look at the v2 assembly kit version that Yamato released, you'll see that it has dozens of small, intricate parts would be difficult to copy on the cheap. Furthermore, the toy has small hinges and locks that bear a lot of pressure during transformation. Arcadia can rely on these small parts due to the high quality plastic that they use. But, if bootleggers opt to use cheaper plastic (eg: Toynami plastic) on their versions, it could result in cracks or outright breakages. Moreover, the Macross fanbase is considerably smaller than the Transformers fanbase, so I find it hard to believe that bootleggers would be willing to invest as much capital in Macross KO's as compared to Transformers KO's. The Fast Packs would be a different story, since they're much simpler than the main toy. While I don't need any more Fast Packs, I'm curious to see how they'll stack up compared to Arcadia's.
  16. 3 points
    Howdy folks, just posted my review over on anymoon.
  17. 3 points
    Hey there, everyone. I just finished my newest Macross-themed artwork. Yes, once again it is the M3 Milia and VF-9 Cutlass. I just *can't* seem to stop drawing these two together! As always, you can check out the image below, but clicking on the link helps my website's traffic stats. http://wp.me/p277FG-1fQ
  18. 3 points
    After a long time of deciding if I was still obsessed with the ugly VA-3 I finally decided to print it in 3D. I hope this motivates many who helped me with the model and can do it in better quality, to prove that this ugly valk that many do not like is really interesting. The same is only in combat mode and when it is finished, bonded, sanded and painted I hope to change a lot for the better. It is really big especially for the length of the wings and gave a fight when it was printed. I hope you like it and upload the captures when finished. enjoy it
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    I'll see what I have time for. Transforming them alone takes time. In the meantime are any of these older pics workable?
  21. 3 points
    It's time for a party - a Mylene Party! http://www.decultureshock.com/speakerpodcast-ep-75-mylene-party-03/
  22. 3 points
    Doesn't matter whether this SDF-35 is continuation of Delta or not, as long as there are newly designed Valks in it. Let Kawamori-San squeezes his brain more & more .. .
  23. 3 points
    WOOOOW! I dislike you for two reasons now--beautiful woman AND the best TV SDF-1 out there! Awesome work!
  24. 3 points
    Updates, I've been learning how to make a heat effect for the thrusters (and for the turntable animation I'm planning): First I learned how to make particles in Blender, then I started learning how to make them behave like a fast moving smoke that would follow the turbines. Then after I got the particles working correctly, I used a composite mode in Blender with different render layers to get the smoke as a separate entity, then a distort filter on the finished render with the plane and the background, and the smoke's alpha as the parameter. The effect looks pretty cool and weird from certain angles: The smoke was not following the engine close enough so the heat effect looks delayed. I did some fixes to the particle speed and also added the smoke as an entity so it receives light and can be perceived as a hot system. The final render got some issues with camera clipping and the fact that I wasn't baking the particles so they began producing the smoke every time I restarted the render (this animation took almost a week of leaving the computer rendering at night) So that choppy feel of the engine going on and off is because I didn't bake it Looks pretty cool tho!! Here's a wallpaper for you guys, with what I've learned so far:
  25. 3 points
    My first drawing with India ink and nibs. Going to color it in digitally though, but with a nifty watercolor tool.
  26. 2 points
    I'm gonna call the VF-0C done. The VF-0B needs decals and stickers. I forgot to attach the antenna but I like how it looks without it anyways. Bonus WIP. Happy Birthday Isamu! Let's go old girl!
  27. 2 points
    Gerwalk Keyboard! Love it. You should share that with Macross Fan Central on FB. Personally, I would drill some holes in the launch bay for flashing leds. But thats just me...
  28. 2 points
    Tidying up here and there. Sprayed the valk TS-80 Flat clear to tone down the gloss. Reassembled everything back together. Will paint the pilot and decal next then do a proper photo shoot later on. Don't mind the crooked missile pods. I'll redo the bases so it fits better. I might redo the head laser to match the grey.
  29. 2 points
    predicting this thread is gonna get ugly...
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
    Can't agree more. I see some aren't happy with the fight, they wished it was longer and maybe a bit flashier, but I can't disagree more, I think the fight the way we got it was perfect. Obi-Wan doesn't have time for flash anymore, this is his final, most important mission. He knows how Maul is, and how persistent he can be, that's why when he mentioned protecting "someone" Obi-Wan had to end it quick. The fight was perfect, and touching. I loved how when they squared off Obi-Wan started in the Ewan McGregor prequel/Clones Wars two finger point pose, then settled into the Episode IV Alec Guinness pose, bridging the gap and reminding us once again, Obi-Wan doesn't have time for flash, these are two old masters, and they need to end this. I also loved Maul's moment, very Sith to the end, "He will avenge us", that's still his line of thinking, Jedi or not, someone will kill the damn Emperor. I know many hated brining Maul back, but what they did with him in the Clone Wars animated series absolutely redeemed his character, and made him into something to truly care about, and all of that got wrapped up nicely with a bow, with his most infamous rival no less. it was brilliant.
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
    Seems unlikely, IMO... thus far, GAGraphic and SoftBank have only really bothered to cover the most prominent variable fighters featured in the various Macross animated titles. They're not really focusing on in-universe importance, they're focusing on the ones that are the most "action figure-ous". Take, for instance, the latest volume that's due out any day now... Variable Fighter Master File: VF-31 Siegfried. The book isn't for the actual production VF-31 that was to become the next main fighter of the Brisingr Alliance the way the VF-25 book was about the fighter in New UN Forces hands. Instead, we're getting a book about that handful of hideously garish custom fighters the bumbling clods of Xaos's 3rd Fighter Wing Delta Flight flew while Windermere's Aerial Knights handed them their asses at regular intervals. Plus, considering how bad the Variable Fighter Master File: VF-4 Lightning III book was, I'm not sure we should really WANT another one that features a lesser-known VF. The VF-4 book's history sections were little more than a tie-in to Macross Delta, and the technical information in the book was mostly wrong and ignored or contradicted official information and common sense. That's a Macross Chronicle Mechanic Sheet... it was only like four pages in total. The Variable Fighter Master File books are, well, books... which run to about 128 pages. They may not have any Tenjin paintings like Macross Chronicle did, but they have some fairly good CG and model kit-related art instead.
  34. 2 points
    Thanks! Hopefully it turns out alright. Unfortunately the part I was talking about is visible and the earlier pic wasn't clear. Here are both of the parts for each of them. The one for the C with the indents is mounted while the other one is for the B without the indent. This was taken after I resprayed the colors. Not too much done today. I redid those parts, created the UN MARINE Font and made a stencil for the gunpod and sprayed it, did the smaller 00 in the front and sprayed the leg fins blue. Those small 00 are a pain. I wish someone made these decals for 1/60. Next thing is to create the VMFAT-203 for the legs and do the other side of the gunpod.
  35. 2 points
    Just make it a "Top Gun"/"Ace of Aces" school. The different aces from the various fleets allow for multiple Valkyrie models and just interject the series with songs from the past idols, while possibly introducing a new "break out" artist if the need is so great. Edit: Whoever the main pilot ends up being can just have the "Iron Eagle/Doug McMaster's" radio taped to the leg; ipod/mp3 player now or whatever the future holds.
  36. 2 points
    Finished the other tailfin. I also extended the blue at the nose as i found out that it was too short. Here are some pics of it mocked up with the missile pods and canards. I've run into a mistake on my part. I swapped the upper chest covers thinking that was all that's needed but it appears that I now need to swap the bottom part of it out as the 0D has an indent for the canards and it's on the 0B right now. At first i thought I couldn't get to that part as there are 4 small screws (1 smaller one than the other for the outer hole) holding it together and after taking out the screws it was clamped together pretty tight. I used my spudger set to gently pry it apart. Here is the top half of the upper chest piece with the 4 screw holes: Here is the bottom half that I need to swap out under the white area. I just need to take out the pins that's holding it, take apart the 0B a little, then swap them out. That's it for now.
  37. 2 points
    Yes, same thoughts. Plus I hope they chose Heavy Metal for music. Basara was the only male "Idol" (not counting the Jamming Bords) singing ROCK in a Macross Series.
  38. 2 points
    More shots of me 'playing' with it. God I cant wait to finish it so I CAN play with it.
  39. 2 points
    http://p-bandai.jp/item/item-1000113244/
  40. 2 points
    I've sprayed the nose blue. Just need to do the leg fins and wing tips then gotta figure out the hardest part to me, the tailfins. I tried looking for a high res image of the tailfins but couldn't find one so I just grabbed a pic online, upscaled as much as could then retraced it line by line in Inkscape. Luckly, my wife has this thing called a Silhouette Cameo so I'm experimenting with using a low tack vinyl decal as a mask. I gave it to her in a png file and she inputted it in her software. The one you see is just a test as she started to throw it away after she thought she made a mistake. I put it on to see if it'll work ( I didn't peel the beak part), I'm impressed at how small that thing can cut! It sticks on pretty good and peels off nice and easy with no residue or damage to the paint. Next thing I'll do is test paint the tailfins then work on the UN MARINES font and right tailfin RH letters as it slants in the opposite direction.
  41. 2 points
    how big is your vacuum cleaner mine wouldn't be able to fit an entire DX valk in it for sure
  42. 2 points
    Really liking 'Token of Displeasure.' TOD for short...
  43. 2 points
  44. 2 points
    Mission accomplished for Roy!
  45. 2 points
    Finally got around to decaling up my VF-25F after putting it off for about... 5 years. As usual the decals are a combination of Hasegawa, 3rd party, and homemade decals (scanned Yamato sticker sheets reprinted as decals). A bit of weathering added, but seeing as Alto went through three or four of these babies, I figured it shouldn't be too dirty and still look new. I'll save the heavy weathering for Ozma. Attempted to repaint Alto to be more anime accurate, but man the molding quality of these Bandai pilot figures is just terrible. Sorry for the so-so quality of the pics; the only camera I have is my phone. I'll snap some gerwalk and battroid pics when I get home later tonight.
  46. 2 points
    Preview from the upcoming VF-31 Masterfile.
  47. 2 points
    You can't bank on what Kawamori said about Megaroad 01 at all... he said it a LONG time ago and he has since put allusions to Minmay in Frontier and put even more about it into Delta. I don't think we will see a Megaroad 01 show buttt I definitely wouldn't take it off the table. By bringing it back into Delta he also seemed to impart some serious significance on whatever happened to them as we then allegedly got Mikumo out of it. I'd still rather see Macross the First animated though.... REBOOT!
  48. 2 points
    Never posted before, but I've been following these forums for awhile. Just wanted to add my thanks for all these great podcasts! I just got back from the Walkure 2nd Live in Yokohama on Saturday and had a great time! The recent concert podcast helped a lot to prepare me for what to expect going in. It also made me keep my eyes open enough to spot a special guest performer just wandering the concert goods area in the mid afternoon! It did spoil the surprise a little!
  49. 2 points
    Definite pass. I always found the beastiality aspect of this story more than a little disturbing.
  50. 2 points
    I'm a museum professional. I can tell you that no matter what, all plastics are going to degrade eventually. Sorry to say, but you can't stop it from happening. The question is how long will it take and what are you willing to do to retard the process? Does anyone have any original star wars figures that are starting to feel sticky? That's the plastic breaking down. If you want to get crazy, you can put everything into a nitrogen atmosphere, but I doubt anyone is willing to go that far Otherwise, its what was posted, keep your stuff out of direct light, extreme humidity or heat, and above all, try to limit fluctuations between temperatures. Most materials are fine, even in non-ideal conditions, as long as the temp/humidity is stable. When you have a lot of fluctuations, the materials expand and contact rapidly, which leads to accelerated deterioration. I know I'm not saying anything new, but even the best museums can only do so much to slow down what will happen to all plastics eventually. Enjoy your toys and models! They won't be around forever, but neither will we!